BS EN ISO 14931-2015 Leather Guide to the selection of leather for apparel (excluding furs)《皮革 制衣用皮革的选择指南(毛皮除外)》.pdf

1、BSI Standards PublicationBS EN ISO 14931:2015Leather Guide to theselection of leather for apparel(excluding furs)BS EN ISO 14931:2015 BRITISH STANDARDNational forewordThis British Standard is the UK implementation of EN ISO 14931:2015. It supersedes BS EN ISO 14931:2004 which is withdrawn.The UK par

2、ticipation in its preparation was entrusted to Technical Committee TCI/69, Footwear, leather and coated fabrics.A list of organizations represented on this committee can be obtained on request to its secretary.This publication does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. U

3、sers are responsible for its correct application. The British Standards Institution 2015.Published by BSI Standards Limited 2015ISBN 978 0 580 75119 6ICS 59.140.30Compliance with a British Standard cannot confer immunity from legal obligations.This British Standard was published under the authority

4、of the Standards Policy and Strategy Committee on 31 March 2015.Amendments/corrigenda issued since publicationDate Text affectedEUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORM EN ISO 14931 March 2015 ICS 59.140.30 Supersedes EN ISO 14931:2004English Version Leather - Guide to the selection of leat

5、her for apparel (excluding furs) (ISO 14931:2015) Cuirs - Guide pour la slection des cuirs pour vtements ( lexclusion des fourrures) (ISO 14931:2015) Leder - Richtlinie zur Auswahl von Leder fr Bekleidung (Pelze ausgenommen) (ISO 14931:2015) This European Standard was approved by CEN on 3 January 20

6、15. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained

7、on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CEN

8、ELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Ita

9、ly, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and United Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNG CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Ave

10、nue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels 2015 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN ISO 14931:2015 EEN ISO 14931:2015 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN ISO 14931:2015) has been prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 120 “Leather” in

11、 collaboration with Technical Committee CEN/TC 289 “Leather” the secretariat of which is held by UNI. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by September 2015, and conflicting national stand

12、ards shall be withdrawn at the latest by September 2015. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN and/or CENELEC shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. This document supersedes EN I

13、SO 14931:2004. According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedon

14、ia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom. Endorsement notice The text of ISO 14931:2015 has been approved by CEN a

15、s EN ISO 14931:2015 without any modification. BS EN ISO 14931:2015BS EN ISO 14931:2015ISO 14931:2015(E)Foreword iv1 Scope . 12 Normative references 13 Sampling 24 Sample conditioning and preparation . 25 Characteristics, test methods and recommended values . 26 Test report . 2 ISO 2015 All rights re

16、served iiiContents PageBS EN ISO 14931:2015ISO 14931:2015(E)ForewordISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out through ISO technical committ

17、ees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work. ISO collaborates closely with the Int

18、ernational Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of electrotechnical standardization.The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular the different approval criteria needed for the di

19、fferent types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directives).Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. ISO sh

20、all not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www.iso.org/patents).Any trade name used in this document

21、is information given for the convenience of users and does not constitute an endorsement.For an explanation on the meaning of ISO specific terms and expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISOs adherence to the WTO principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT

22、) see the following URL: Foreword - Supplementary informationThe committee responsible for this document is ISO/TC 120, Leather, Subcommittee SC 2, Tanned leather.This second edition cancels and replaces the first edition (ISO 14931:2004), which has been technically revised.iv ISO 2015 All rights re

23、servedBS EN ISO 14931:2015Leather Guide to the selection of leather for apparel (excluding furs)1 ScopeThis International Standard gives recommended values and related test methods for apparel leather excluding furs. It also specifies the sampling and conditioning procedures of laboratory samples.2

24、Normative referencesThe following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendmen

25、ts) applies.ISO 105-B02, Textiles Tests for colour fastness Part B02: Colour fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp testISO 2418, Leather Chemical, physical and mechanical and fastness tests Sampling locationISO 2419, Leather Physical and mechanical tests Sample preparation and conditio

26、ningISO 2588, Leather Sampling Number of items for a gross sampleISO 3377-1, Leather Physical and mechanical tests Determination of tear load Part 1: Single edge tearISO 4044, Leather Chemical tests Preparation of chemical test samplesISO 4045, Leather Chemical tests Determination of pHISO 5402-1, L

27、eather Determination of flex resistance Part 1: Flexometer methodISO 11640, Leather Tests for colour fastness Colour fastness to cycles of to-and-fro rubbingISO 11641, Leather Tests for colour fastness Colour fastness to perspirationISO 11642, Leather Tests for colour fastness Colour fastness to wat

28、erISO 11643, Leather Tests for colour fastness Colour fastness of small samples to solventsISO 11644, Leather Test for adhesion of finishISO 15700, Leather Tests for colour fastness Colour fastness to water spottingISO 17070, Leather Chemical tests Determination of pentachlorophenol contentISO 17075

29、, Leather Chemical tests Determination of chromium(VI) contentISO 17186, Leather Physical and mechanical tests Determination of surface coating thicknessISO 17226-1, Leather Chemical determination of formaldehyde content Part 1: Method using high performance liquid chromatographyISO 17233, Leather P

30、hysical and mechanical tests Determination of cold crack temperature of surface coatingsISO 17234-1, Leather Chemical tests for the determination of certain azo colorants in dyed leathers Part 1: Determination of certain aromatic amines derived from azo colorantsINTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 14931:2015

31、(E) ISO 2015 All rights reserved 1BS EN ISO 14931:2015ISO 14931:2015(E)ISO 17234-2, Leather Chemical tests for the determination of certain azo colorants in dyed leathers Part 2: Determination of 4-aminoazobenzene3 Sampling3.1 When possible, the location and identification of laboratory samples shal

32、l be in accordance with ISO 2418.3.2 The number of samples shall be by agreement between the interested parties except in cases of dispute when the number of samples shall be in accordance with ISO 2588. In case the lot size of the leathers is high, the maximum number of samples shall be five.4 Samp

33、le conditioning and preparation4.1 Laboratory samples for physical, mechanical, and fastness tests shall be conditioned and prepared in accordance with ISO 2419.4.2 Laboratory samples for chemical tests shall be conditioned and prepared in accordance with ISO 4044.5 Characteristics, test methods and

34、 recommended values5.1 Table 1 and Table 2 show the characteristics, test methods, and recommended values for different types of leather intended for apparel. The essential characteristics (Table 1) shall be taken all into account, even if they can have different relative weight in the process of ev

35、aluation relative to use. The subsidiary characteristics (Table 2) shall be agreed by the parties concerned according to the intended use of the leather.5.2 The coating thickness of leather shall be measured according to ISO 17186.6 Test reportThe test report shall contain at least the following inf

36、ormation:a) reference to this International Standard, i.e. ISO 14931;b) identification of test sample and if required, sampling procedure;c) date and place of the tests;d) test results and number of test specimens;e) conditioning and test atmosphere used;f) any deviation from this document.2 ISO 201

37、5 All rights reservedBS EN ISO 14931:2015ISO 14931:2015(E)Table 1 Essential characteristics, recommended values, and test methods for apparel leatherLeather characteristics Recommended value Test methodsCoating thickness 0,15 mm (max) ISO 17186Colour fastness to light aniline 3 blue scalenubuck 3 bl

38、ue scalesuede 3 blue scaleother finishing 4 blue scaleISO 105-B02Colour fastness toto-and-fro rubbingChange of colour and staining of the felt pad to be assessedFor aniline, nubuck, or suede: dry felt 20 cycles 3 grey scale wet felt 10 cycles 3 grey scale wet with perspiration solutiona 10 cycles 3

39、grey scaleOther finishing: dry felt 50 cycles 3 grey scale wet felt 20 cycles 3 grey scale wet with perspiration solutiona 20 cycles 3 grey scaleISO 11640Colour fastness to water spotting referring to the residual halo after 24 h 3 grey scale(no blistering of the leather surface or other permanent p

40、hysical effects and no salt spew formation)ISO 15700Colour fastness to dry cleaning 3 grey scaleno finish lost (no refatting)ISO 11643Flexing resistance aniline (nonpigmented finish) 20 000 cyclesleather (pigmented finish) 50 000 cyclesISO 5402-1Tear strength 20 N ISO 3377-1Azo colourant AbsentbISO

41、17234-1ISO 17234-2Chromium VI content 3 mg/kg ISO 17075Formaldehyde content 150 mg/kg ISO 17226-1Pentachlorophenol content 5 mg/kg ISO 17070pH and pH 3,2If the pH value is below 4, pH shall be 0,7ISO 4045aAlkaline artificial perspiration solution is defined in ISO 11641.bEach amine indicated in ISO

42、17234-1 and ISO 17234-2 is considered “absent” if 30 mg/kg. ISO 2015 All rights reserved 3BS EN ISO 14931:2015ISO 14931:2015(E)Table 2 Subsidiary characteristics, recommended values and test methods for apparel leatherLeather characteristics Recommended value Test methodsColour fastness to water 3 g

43、rey scale ISO 11642Finish adhesion (only for pigmented leathers) 2 N per 10 mmdry adhesionISO 11644Cold crack resistance (only for pigmented leathers)-10 C(no damage)ISO 172334 ISO 2015 All rights reservedBS EN ISO 14931:2015BS EN ISO 14931:2015ISO 14931:2015(E) ISO 2015 All rights reservedICS 59.14

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