CAN CGSB-4 175-M91 PT 3-1991 Textiles - Weaves - Definitions of general terms and basic weaves.pdf

1、 CAN/CGSB-4.175-M91 Part 3 ISO 3572:1976, IDT Extended June 2000 Reaffirmed October 2013 International Organization for Standardization National Standard of Canada ICS 01.040.59; 59.080.30 ISO 1976. CGSB 2013. All rights reserved. Unauthorized reproduction is strictly prohibited. Textile test method

2、s Textiles Tear properties of fabrics Part 1: Determination of tear force using ballistic pendulum method (Elmendorf) (ISO 13937-1:2000, IDT) Textiles Weaves Definitions of general terms and basic weaves (ISO 3572:1976, IDT) The CANADIAN GENERAL STANDARDS BOARD (CGSB), under whose auspices this stan

3、dard has been developed, is a government agency within Public Works and Government Services Canada. CGSB is engaged in the production of voluntary standards in a wide range of subject areas through the media of standards committees and the consensus process. The standards committees are composed of

4、representatives of relevant interests including producers, consumers and other users, retailers, governments, educational institutions, technical, professional and trade societies, and research and testing organizations. Any given standard is developed on the consensus of views expressed by such rep

5、resentatives. CGSB has been accredited by the Standards Council of Canada as a national standards-development organization. The standards that it develops and offers as National Standards of Canada conform to the criteria and procedures established for this purpose by the Standards Council of Canada

6、. In addition to standards it publishes as National Standards of Canada, CGSB produces standards to meet particular needs, in response to requests from a variety of sources in both the public and private sectors. Both CGSB standards and CGSB national standards are developed in conformance with the p

7、olicies described in the CGSB Policy and Procedures Manual for the Development and Maintenance of Standards. CGSB standards are subject to review and revision to ensure that they keep abreast of technological progress. CGSB will initiate the review of this standard within five years of the date of p

8、ublication. Suggestions for their improvement, which are always welcome, should be brought to the notice of the standards committees concerned. Changes to standards are issued either as separate amendment sheets or in new editions of standards. An up-to-date listing of CGSB standards, including deta

9、ils on latest issues and amendments, and ordering instructions, is found in the CGSB Catalogue at our Web site www.tpsgc-pwgsc.gc.ca/ ongc-cgsb along with more information about CGSB products and services. Although the intended primary application of this standard is stated in its Scope, it is impor

10、tant to note that it remains the responsibility of the users of the standard to judge its suitability for their particular purpose. The testing and evaluation of a product against this standard may require the use of materials and/or equipment that could be hazardous. This document does not purport

11、to address all the safety aspects associated with its use. Anyone using this standard has the responsibility to consult the appropriate authorities and to establish appropriate health and safety practices in conjunction with any applicable regulatory requirements prior to its use. CGSB neither assum

12、es nor accepts any responsibility for any injury or damage that may occur during or as the result of tests, wherever performed. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this Canadian standard may be the subject of patent rights. CGSB shall not be held responsible for identi

13、fying any or all such patent rights. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights is entirely their own responsibility. Further information on CGSB and its services and standards may be obtained from: The Manager Standards Division Canadia

14、n General Standards Board Gatineau, Canada K1A 1G6 The Standards Council of Canada (SCC) is the coordinating body of the Canadian standardization network, which is composed of people and organizations involved in the development, promotion and implementation of standards. Through the collaborative e

15、fforts of Canadian standardization network members, standardization is helping to advance the social and economic well-being of Canada and to safeguard the health and safety of Canadians. The networks efforts are overseen by SCC. The principal objectives of SCC are to foster and promote voluntary st

16、andardization as a means of advancing the national economy, supporting sustainable development, benefiting the health, safety and welfare of workers and the public, assisting and protecting the consumer, facilitating domestic and international trade, and furthering international cooperation in relat

17、ion to standardization. An important facet of the Canadian standards development system is the use of the following principles: consensus; equal access and effective participation by concerned interests; respect for diverse interests and identification of those who should be afforded access to provi

18、de the needed balance of interests; mechanism for dispute resolution; openness and transparency; open access by interested parties to the procedures guiding the standards development process; clarity with respect to the processes; and Canadian interest consideration as the initial basis for the deve

19、lopment of standards. A National Standard of Canada (NSC) is a standard prepared or reviewed by an SCC-accredited SDO and approved by the SCC according to NSC approval requirements. Approval does not refer to the technical content of the standard, as this remains the responsibility of the SDO. An NS

20、C reflects a consensus of a number of capable individuals whose collective interests provide, to the greatest practicable extent, a balance of representation of general interests, producers, regulators, users (including consumers) and others with relevant interests, as may be appropriate to the subj

21、ect at hand. NSCs are intended to make a significant and timely contribution to the Canadian interest. Those who have a need to apply standards are encouraged to use NSCs. These standards are subject to periodic review. Users of NSCs are cautioned to obtain the latest edition from the SDO that publi

22、shes the standard. The responsibility for approving standards as NSCs rests with: Standards Council of Canada 270 Albert Street, Suite 200 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6N7, CANADA How to order Publications: by telephone 819-956-0425 or 1-800-665-2472 by fax 819-956-5740 by mail CGSB Sales Centre Gatineau, Ca

23、nada K1A 1G6 in person Place du Portage Phase III, 6B1 11 Laurier Street Gatineau, Quebec by email ncr.cgsb-ongctpsgc-pwgsc.gc.ca on the Web www.tpsgc-pwgsc.gc.ca/ongc-cgsb NATIONAL STANDARD OF CANADA CAN/CGSB-4.175-M91 Part 3 ISO 3572:1976, IDT Extended June 2000 Reaffirmed October 2013 Textiles We

24、aves Definitions of general terms and basic weaves (ISO 3572:1976, IDT) CETTE NORME NATIONALE DU CANADA EST DISPONIBLE EN VERSIONS FRANAISE ET ANGLAISE. Published February 1991 by the Canadian General Standards Board Gatineau, Canada K1A 1G6 Minister of Supply and Services Canada 1991 No part of thi

25、s publication may be reproduced in any form without the prior permission of the publisher. Prepared by the International Organization for Standardization Reviewed by the Canadian General Standards Board Approved by the CAN/CGSB-4.175-M91 Part 3 ISO 3572:1976, IDT CGSB 2013 All rights reserved CANADI

26、AN GENERAL STANDARDS BOARD Committee on Textile Test Methods and Terminology (Voting membership at date of reaffirmation) General interest category Batcheller, J. University of Alberta Carrick, D. Consultant Davie, N. Consultant Liu, S. University of Manitoba Man, T.M. Consultant Tait, C. National D

27、efence/DSSPM Producer category Adam, C. Tencate Protective Fabrics Canada Boivin, D. E.I. DuPont Co. Lawson, L. Davey Textile Solutions Leblanc, J.-M. Marv Holland Apparel Ltd. Schumann, E. Lincoln Fabrics Ltd. Taylor, V. Invista (Canada) Co. Regulator category Andersson, C. Health Canada User categ

28、ory Bourget, S. National Defence/QETE DEntremont, E. Royal Canadian Mounted Police Izquierdo, V. Textile Technologies Centre Kohli, G. Sears Canada Inc. Larsen, A.-L. Exova Group Ltd. Litva, M. Canada Border Services Agency MacLeod, J. Public Works and Government Services Canada Tebbs, C. Internatio

29、nal Drycleaners Congress Secretary (non-voting) Grabowski, M. Canadian General Standards Board CGSB 2013 All rights reserved i CAN/CGSB-4.175-M91 Part 3 ISO 3572:1976, IDT Extended June 2000 Reaffirmed October 2013 Preface to the National Standard of Canada This National Standard of Canada has been

30、extended and reaffirmed by the CGSB Committee on Textile Test Methods and Terminology and has been approved as a National Standard of Canada by the Standards Council of Canada. It is identical in content and in layout with International Standard ISO 3572, Textiles Weaves Definitions of general terms

31、 and basic weaves, published 1976-02-15 by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO), and is reprinted with the permission of ISO. The international standard was reviewed by the CGSB committee to determine its suitability for Canadian use. It was agreed to use it in total, without edi

32、torial changes. Throughout this standard, the words “National Standard of Canada” are to be understood as replacing the words “International Standard” wherever they appear. Some terminology and conventions are not identical to those used in other test methods within CAN/CGSB-4.2 Textile test methods

33、. For example, the word “thread” is used in place of “yarn” and the term “healds” instead of “heddles.” The CGSB National Standards of Canada may be obtained from the Canadian General Standards Board, Sales Centre, Gatineau, Canada K1A 1G6. Telephone 819-956-0425 or 1-800-665-2472. Fax 819-956-5740.

34、 E-mail ncr.cgsb-ongctpsgc-pwgsc.gc.ca. Web site www.tpsgc-pwgsc.gc.ca/ongc-cgsb. The International Standards may be obtained from IHS Global Canada Ltd., 200-1331 MacLeod Trail SE, Calgary, Alberta T2G 0K3, telephone 613-237-4250 or 1-800-267-8220, fax 613-237-4251, Web site . INTERNATION DAR 3572

35、INTERNATIONAL ORGANIZATION FOR STANDARDIZATION drvl XJLt-iAtW.lHAJl OPI-AHM3AUMII no CTAHAAPTM3AUMM*ORGANISATION INTERNATIONALE DE NORMALISATION Textiles - Weaves - Definitions of general terms and basic weaves Textiles - Armures - Dkfinitions des termes gh filling : Threads running in the direction

36、 of the width of a fabric as produced. 2.4 pick : A weft thread or a group of weft threads inserted in a fabric by one traverse of the picking mechanism between two consecutive beat-ups, i.e. during one cycle of weaving. NOTE - The terms end and pick are often connected with a reference length, for

37、example 15 Picks per centimetre, 15 ends per centimetre. 2.5 face : The surface of a fabric that is intended to be Seen. NOTE - If both surfaces of a fabric are intended to be Seen, either tan be regarded as the face. 2.6 back : The surface of a fabric opposite to the face. 2.7 interlacing : The cro

38、ssing of warp and weft threads over and under each other. 2.8 weave : The Pattern of interlacing of warp and weft in a woven fabric. NOTE - There are three basic weaves, plain, twill and sateen (sec clause 3). 2.9 weave repeat : The smallest number of warp and weft threads required for the Pattern o

39、f a weave. 2.10 first warp thread : The first warp thread on the left in a weave repeat. 2.11 first weft thread : The bottom weft thread in a weave repeat. 2.12 float : A length of thread between adjacent interlacings. NOTE - The length of a float is defined by the number of warp threads over which

40、a weft thread goes, or the number of weft threads over which a warp thread goes, as relevant. 2.13 stitch; binder; binding Point : An interlacing whose purpose is : a) to bind long floats in a Single structure, or b) to bind together different I c) to bind backing threads multiple structure. 2.14 tw

41、ill line : A diagonal line f ayers, or to the face weave in a ormed by the weave. NOTE - The letter S or Z (as appropriate) may be used to designate the direction of the slope of the twill line. 2.15 design Paper : Paper having vertical and horizontal ruled lines that are suitable for illustrating w

42、eaves and designs. NOTE - Usually each space between vertical lines represents one war-p thread, and each space between horizontal lines represents one weft thread. The design Paper commonly used has equally spaced fine ruling, with heavy overruling in blocks of convenient size. 2.16 weave diagram :

43、 The representation of the interlacing of a weave on design Paper. NOTE - An end lifted over a pick is usually illustrated by inserting a Symbol in a small rectangle of the design Paper, i.e. such a mark indicates “Warp up” and an unfilled Square indicates “Weft up”. 1 ISO 3572-1976 (E) 3.2 twill we

44、awe : A weave having a weave repeat of at least three weft threads and which produces twill lines. 2.17 weave cross-section diagram : A drawing showing the interlacing of one warp or weft thread as seen from the side of the fabric. Exampfes : Cross-section Warpwise Cross-section ” .f-T Weftwise FIGU

45、RE 2a - Weft-faced “Z” twill weave Fl GUR E 2b - Warp-faced “Z” twiil weave NOTE - When used, the Cross-section in the warp direction shail be shown on the left-hand side and the Cross-section in the weft direction on the bottom of the weave diagram. Relevant warp or weft threads must be marked or n

46、umbered. The face of the fabric shall be shown on the left of the warpwise Cross-section and on the top of the weftwise Cross-section. t 2.18 step number; move nunaber : The number of Picks by which a Warp thread interlacing in a weave moves relative to the preceding warp thread. t FIGURE 3a - Weft-

47、faced “S” F I GUR E 3b - Warp-faced “S” twill weave twill weave 3.3 sateen weave : A weave having a weave repeat of at least five weft threads and five warp threads in which each end interlaces once only and the step number is greater than one. It should be noted that the number of threads in a weav

48、e repeat and the step number may not have a common divisor. 2.19 drafting plan : A plan indicating the Order in which warp yarns are drawn through the eyes of the healds on the heald shafts. 2.20 lifting plan : A plan indicating the Order sf lifting heald shafts on successive Picks in Order to weave

49、 a Pattern. 3 BASIC WEAVES There are three basic weaves, namely : plain weave, twill weave, and sateen weave, defined as follows. I 3.1 plain weave : A weave in which each weft thread Passes alternately over and under a warp thread, and each warp thread Passes alternately over and under a weft thread. Fl GURE 4a - Sateen weave (Weft faced) FIGURE 4b - Satin weave (Warp faced) FIGURE 5b - Satin weave (Warp faced) FIGURE 5a - Sateen weave (Weft faced) FIGURE 1 - Plain weave 2 Copyright Notice The Canadian adoption of th