CGSB 38 17-92-CAN CGSB-1992 Chemises D-Uniforme D-Apparat Pour Hommes《男士制服衬衫 代替38-GP-17M》.pdf

1、CAN/CGSB-38.17-92 NATIONAL STANDARD OF CANADA Mens Uniform Dress Shirts Canadian General Standards Board Supersedes 38-GP-17M Copyright Canadian General Standards Board Provided by IHS under license with CGSBNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-CGSB CAN/

2、CGSB- 38-17-92 * m L874b50 0004072 038 m The CANADIAN GENERAL STANDARDS BOARD (CGSB), under whose auspices this standard has been developed is a government agency within the Federal Department of Supply and Services. CGSB is engaged in the production of voluntary standards in a wide range of subject

3、 areas through the media of standards committees and the consensus process. The standards committees are composed of representatives of relevant interests including producers, consumers and other users, retailers, governments, educational institutions, technical, professional and trade societies, an

4、d research and testing organizations. Any given standard is developed on the consensus of views expressed by such representatives. The Minister?s Advisory Council on CGSB reviews the results of the consensus process. CGSB has been accredited by the Standards Council of Canada as a national standards

5、-writing organization. The standards that it develops and offers as National Standards of Canada conform to the criteria and procedures established for this purpose by the Standards Council of Canada. In addition to standards it publishes as national standards, CGSB produces standards to meet partic

6、ular needs, in response to requests from a variety of sources in both the public and private sectors. Both CGSB standards and national standards developed by CGSB are developed in conformance with the policies described in the Policy Manual for the Development and Maintenance of Standards by CGSB. C

7、GSB standards are subject to review and revision at any time, so as to ensure that they keep abreast of technological progress. Suggestions for their improvement, which are always welcome, should be brought to the notice of the standards committees concerned. Changes to standards are issued either a

8、s separate amendment sheets or in new editions of standards. An up-to-date listing of CGSB standards, including details on latest issues and amendments, and ordering instructions, will be found in the CGSB Catalogue, which is published annually and is available without charge upon request. Although

9、the intended primary application of this standard is stated in its Scope, it is important to note that it remains the responsibility of the users of the standard to judge its suitability for their particular purpose. Many tests required by CGSB standards are inherently hazardous. CGSB neither assume

10、s nor accepts any responsibility for any injury or damage that may occur during or as the result of tests, wherever performed. CGSB takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted with any item connected with this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that de

11、termination of the validity of any such patent rights are entirely their own rrsponsibility. Further information on CGSB and its services and standards may be obtained from: The secretary Canadian General Standards Board ttawa, Canada KIA 166 The STANDARDS COUNCIL OF CANADA is the co-ordinating body

12、 of the National Standards System, a federation of independent, autonomous organizations working towards the further development and improvement of voluntary standardization in the national interest. The principal objectives of the Council are to foster and promote voluntary standardization as a mea

13、ns of advancing the national economy, benefiting the health, safety and welfare of the public, assisting and protecting the consumer, facilitating domestic and international trade, and furthering international co-operation in the field of standards. A National Standard of Canada is a standard which

14、has been approved by the Standards Council of Canada and one which reflects 8 reasonable agreement among the views of a number of capable individuals whose collective interests provide, to the greatest practicable extent, a balance of representation of producers, users, consumers and others with rel

15、evant interests, as may be appropriate to the subject in hand. It normally is a standard that is capable of making a significant and timely contribution to the national interest. Approval of a standard as a National Standard of Canada indicates that a standard conforms to the criteria and procedures

16、 established by the Standards Council of Canada. Approval does not refer to the technical content of the standard; this remains the continuing responsibility of the accredited standards-writing organization. Those who have a need to apply standards are encouraged to use National Standards of Canada

17、whenever practicable. These standards are subject to periodic review; therefore, users are cautioned to obtain the latest edition from the organization preparing the standard. The responsibility for approving National Standards of Canada rests with the: f Standards Council of Canada 350 Sparks Stree

18、t Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6N7 IHow to order -3 Publications: by Telephone - (819) 956-0425 or - (819) 956-0426 by Fax - (819) 956-5644 - CGSB, Sales Unit Ottawa, canada KIA 1G6 by Mail in Person - Place du Portage III, 9C1 11 Laurier Street Hull, Quebec Copyright Canadian General Standards Board Provide

19、d by IHS under license with CGSBNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-CGSB CANICGSB- 38-17-92 fS 1874b50 0004073 T74 D NATIONAL STANDARD OF CANADA CANICGSB-38.17-92 Supersedes 38-GP- 17M January 1982 MENS UNIFORM DRESS SHIRTS Prepared by the Approved by t

20、he Canadian General Standards Board m* Standards Council of Canada Published December 1992 by the Canadian General Standards Board Ottawa, Canada K1A 1G6 QMinkter of Supply and Strvices canada - 1992 No part of this publicaiion may be reprodd in any form without the prior permission of tk publisher.

21、 Copyright Canadian General Standards Board Provided by IHS under license with CGSBNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-Beland, M. Bougie, D. Douglas, R J. Ferguson, H. Firth, J.C. Friedlander, D. Gilbert, L. Gordon, J.D. Graveie, C. Hartwick, O. Hawkins

22、, V. Kennedy, D. Laking, R.T. Legris, M. St. Pierre, A. Salm, G. sana o. Sanders, B.A. Shannon, E. Wagner, R. Polsky, L. Secretmy CANADIAN GENERAL STANDARDS BOARD COMMITTEE ON UNIFORM DRESS SHIRTS (Membership at date of approval) Empire Shirt Ltd. Dejmment of National Defence Royal Canadian Mounted

23、Police Sainthiii-Levine Uniforms Canada Ltd. Firth Bros. Ltd. DHJ-Facemate Canada Inc. Department of National Health and Weifare John Forsytb Co. Ltd. Department of National Revenue (Customs and Excise) Department of Public Works J horizontal and vertical. f. Shoulder straps (Figure 9) g. Shoulder l

24、oops (Figure 9) h. Interlined shoulder straps i. Interlined pocket flaps. 2 CANKGSB-38.17-92 Copyright Canadian General Standards Board Provided by IHS under license with CGSBNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-CGSB CAN/CGSB- 38-17-72 tt D 1874b50 00040

25、77 b1T W 5.3 Materiais 5.3.1 SheR Muterial - Body fabric and fabric components (except interlinings) shall. be of polyester/cotton in accordancc with CGSB standard 4-GP-142, unless otherwise specified (par. 8.1). The colour shall be as specified (par. 8.1). Sewing Thread - The thread shall be in acc

26、ordance with CGSB standard 4-GP-131 a specified below. The colour shall match the shell material. The colour of button sewing thread shall match the colour of the buttons. Monofilament threads may only be used in inside collar and cuff run seams that are completely concealed and closed off. 5.3.2 5.

27、3.2.1 Seams, Sritchings, Serging and Button Sewing - Polyester, cotton-covered thread Type 1, R 27 tex in accordance with CGSB standard 4-GP-131. 5.3.2.2 Buttonholes a. Needle: Polyester, coton-covered thread Type 1, R 35 tex, or Type 1, R 27 tex or Type 1, R 40 tex. b. Under: Polyester, cotton-cove

28、red thread Type i, R 27 tex. Both threads shall be in accordance with CGSB Standard 4-GP-131. 5.3.3 Interhing - All interlinings should be suitable for their intended purpose and compatible with other plies of the shirt components. The allowable dimensional change in the warp and weft direction shal

29、l not exceed 1.2% when tested according to CAN/CGSB-42 No. 24.1. All mass per unit area values apply to fabrics in treated condition. 5.3.3.1 Cuff Interlining a. Nonfused Cuffs - The interlining shall be of 100% cotton and shall have a mass per unit area of not less than 110 g/mz. b. Fused Cuffs - T

30、he fusible interlining shall be of 100% cotton and shall have a mass per unit area of not less than 140 g/m2, dot-coated with high density polyethylene adhesive, 28/30 mesh coating pattern, medium finish. 5.3.3.2 Collar Band Interlining -For Styles la and lb collars the collar band interlining shall

31、 be of 100% cotton and shall bave a mass per unit area of not less than 152 g/mz. For Style 2 collar (convertible) the collar band interlining shall be of 100% cotton and shall have a mass per unit area of not less than 110 g/m2. 5.3.3.3 Collar interlining a. Built-up Collar (Style la) - The base in

32、terlining and the fusible interlining shall be of 100% cotton suitably treated. The mass per unit area of the base interlining shall not be less than 165 g/m2. The mass per unit area of the end patch fusible interlining shall not be less than 140 g/m2. The mass per unit area of the stay patch shall

33、not be less than 140 g/mz. b. Top Fused Collar (Style lb) - The fusible collar interlining shall be 100% cotton and its mass per unit area shall not be less than 140 g/m2. The mass per unit area of the fusible “build-up” sip interlining shall not be less than 122 g/m2. Both interlinings shall be dot

34、-coated with high density polyethylene adhesive, 30 mesh coating pattern, medium finish. c. Convertible Collar (Style 2) - The base interlining shall be 100% cotton, and shall have a mass per unit area of not less than 165 g/m2, 0 100% polyester and a mass per unit area of not less than 115 g/mz. Th

35、e end patches shall be 100% cotton and shall have a mass per unit area of not less than 110 g/mz. d. Casual Collar (Style 3) - The base interlining shall be of 100% cotton and shall have a mass per unit area of not less than 165 g/m2. The fusible coilar stand strip shall be of 100% cotton and shall

36、have a mass per unit area of not less than 122 g/m2. The end patches if necessary shall be of a single ply of body fabric. - 5.3.4 Buttons - Buttons shall be 4-hole, thermosetting plastic (polyester) 11 to 12 mm in diameter. Buttons shall be white (pearl type) unless otherwise specifed (par. 8.1). 5

37、.4 Construction 5.4.1 Seams and Stitches 5.4.1.1 Ail seams shall not be less than 5 mm, uuless otherwise specified (par. 8.1) with not less than 4 nor more than 6 stitches per centimetre. CANKGSB-38.17-92 3 Copyright Canadian General Standards Board Provided by IHS under license with CGSBNot for Res

38、aleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-CGSB CANICGSB- 38.17-72 * W 1874650 0004078 556 W 110 g/rn*. 5.4.1.2 5.4.1.3 5.4.1.4 5.4.1.5 5.4.2 5.4.2.1 5.4.2.2. 5.4.3 5.4.3.1 The ends of all seams and stitchings, unless secured by other stitching, and all breaks in the thr

39、ead, shall be securely backstitched. Stitches shall present a regular, even appearance without fabric pucker, and shall be free from skips that result from faulty machine thread tension or other stitching malfunction. Where seaming, turning and stitching is specified, the edges shall be properly wor

40、ked out before stitching. Unless otherwise specified (par. 8.1). stitching shall be Type 301 lockstitch (54-GP-1). , Sleeve Setting and Underurm/Body Joining - This shall be done by use of a seam-and-serge (safety stitch) operation. Joining may be performed in one or two operations. If one operation

41、 is used, stitch type shall be Type 516 (401-504) or 517 (301-504) or 515 (401-503). If two operations are used, seaming shall be done by stitch Type 301 or 401 and overedging (serging) shall be done by stitch Type 504 or 503. Buttonholes - Buttonholes shall be sewn with not less than 11 stitches pe

42、r centimetre. Each buttonhole shall be securely and neatly tacked at each end, and shall be compatible in size, with the button. Buttons Sewing - Buttons shall be machine sewn with not less than 16 stitches per button. Thread shall be locked after stitching. Front Closure (Figures 2 and IO) French F

43、ront a. Button stand facing - The raw edge of each button stand front shall be turned in (except when selvage is used) and stitched 2 mm from the edge, or serged. The edges shall be folded under to form facings: 40 mm for shirts with Style la and 1 b collars, 75 mm for shirts with convertible collar

44、 (Style 2) and casual collar (Style 3). b. Buttons - 7 buttons, including the collar button, shall be positioned on the shirt front and spaced to effect proper closure with the buttonholes (Figure 10). c. Buttonholes - 6 vertical, 1 horizontal (the collar buttonhole) of commercial shirt type and siz

45、ed to fit the buttons shall be positioned on the shirt front. Placket Front a. Buttonhole band - The buttonhole band shall extend the full length of the left forepart and be made of a piece of shell material (par. 5.3.1) 65 mm in width and interlined with a piece of material to be in accordance with

46、 par. 5.3.3. The band shall be sewn to the left forepart with a two-needle band machine, with the needles spaced 23 f 5 mm apart using 35 i 5 mm double-edge folder to turn in the raw edges of the band. b. Button stand facing - The raw edge of each button stand front shall be turned in (except when s

47、elvage is used) and stitched 2 mm from the edge, or serged. The edges shall be folded under to form facings: 35 f 5 mm for shirts with Style 1 a and I b collars, 75 mm for shirts with convertible collar (Style 2) and casual collar (Style 3). c. Buttons - As per par. 5.4.2.1 b. above. d. Buttonholes

48、- As per par. 5.4.2.1 c. above. Pockets Pleated Pocket, Military Style, with Flap (Figure 3) - The pocket shall be folded in half and stitched 25 mm from the folded edge. The folded portion shall be opened and pressed to form a box pleat 25 mm in width. The top edge of the pocket shall be folded in,

49、 the raw edge folded under and stitched to form a 25 mm hem. The side and bottom edges shall be turned in and stitched to the forepart 2 mm from the edge. The top comers shall be reinforced with a triangular stitch pattern. a. The left breast pocket shall have a pencil compartment 40 mm wide and i i0 mm deep made from a single ply of shell material with the hem across the top 20 to 25 mm in depth and stitched to the body of the shirt 2 mm from the edge along the outer edges only. A