CGSB 38 24-93-CAN CGSB-1993 Confection De Pantalons D-Uniforme D-Apparat《制服裤设计详图 代替38-GP-24M》.pdf

1、CGSB CAN/CGSB- 38.24-93 t* = 3874bSO 0023320 52T NATIONAL STANDARD OF CANADA CAN/CGSB-38.24-93 Supersedes 38-GP-24M Construction Details for Uniform Dress Pants Canadian General Standards Board Copyright Canadian General Standards Board Provided by IHS under license with CGSBNot for ResaleNo reprodu

2、ction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-CGSB CANiCGSB- 38.24-93 * 1874650 0023121 466 = The CANADIAN GENERAL STANDARDS BOARD (CGSB), under whose auspices this standard has been developed is a government agency within the Federal Department of Supply and Services. CGSB is engaged i

3、n the production of voluntary standards in a wide range of subject areas through the media of standards committees and the consensus process. The standards committees are composed of representatives of relevant interests including producers, consumers and other users, retailers, governments, educati

4、onal institutions, technical, professional and trade societies, and research and testing organizations. Any given standard is developed on the consensus of views expressed by such representatives. The Ministers Advisory Council on CGSB reviews the results of the consensus process. CGSB has been accr

5、edited by the Standards Council of Canada as a national standards-writing organization. The standards that it develops and offers as National Standards of Canada conform to the criteria and procedures established for this purpose by the Standards Council of Canada. In addition to standards it publis

6、hes as national standards, CGSB produces standards to meet particular needs, in response to requests from a variety of sources in both the public and private sectors. Both CGSB standards and national standards developed by CGSB are developed in conformance with the policies described in the Policy M

7、anual for the Development and Maintenance of Standards by CGSB. CGSB standards are subject to review and revision at any time, so as to ensure that they keep abreast of technological progrzss. Suggestions for their improvement, which are always welcome, should be brought to the notice of the standar

8、ds committees concerned. Changes to standards are issued either as separate amendment sheets or in new editions of standards. An up-to-date listing of CGSB standards, including details on latest issues and amendments, and ordering instructions, will be found in the CGSB Catalogue, which is published

9、 annually and is available without charge upon request. Although the intended primary application of this standard is stated in its Scope, it is important to note that it remains the responsibility of the users of the standard to judge its suitability for their particular purpose. Many tests require

10、d by CGSB standards are inherently hazardous. CGSB neither assumes nor accepts any responsibility for any injury or damage that may occur during or as the result of tests, wherever performed. CGSB takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted with any item connected with th

11、is standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights are entirely their own responsibility. Further information on CGSB and its services and standards may be obtained from: The Secretary Canadian General Standards Board Ottawa, Canada

12、 KIA 1G6 The STANDARDS COUNCIL OF CANADA is the Co-ordinating body of the National Standards System, a federation of independent, autonomous organizations working towards the further development and improvement of voluntary standardization in the national interest. The principal objectives of the Co

13、uncil are to foster and promote voluntary standardization as a means of advancing the national economy, benefiting the health, safety and welfare of the public, assisting and protecting the consumer, facilitating domestic and international trade, and furthering international co-operation in the fiel

14、d of standards. A National Standard of Canada is a standard which has been approved by the Standards Council of Canada and one which reflects a reasonable agreement among the views of a number of capable individuals whose collective interests provide, to the greatest practicable extent, a balance of

15、 representation of producers, users, consumers and others with relevant interests, as may be appropriate to the subject in hand. It normally is a standard that is capable of making a significant and timely contribution to the national interest. Approval of a standard as a National Standard of Canada

16、 indicates that a standard conforms to the criteria and procedures established by the Standards Council of Canada. Approval does not refer to the technical content of the standard; this remains the continuing responsibility of the accredited standards-writing organization. Those who have a need to a

17、pply standards are encouraged to use National Standards of Canada whenever practicable. These standards are subject to periodic review; therefore, users are cautioned to obtain the latest edition from the organization preparing the standard. The responsibility for approving National Standards of Can

18、ada rests with the: Standards Council of Canada 350 Sparks Street Ottawa, Ontario KIP 6N7 by Telephone - (819) 956-0425 or - (819) 956-0426 by Fax - (819) 956-5644 by Mail - CGSB, Sales Unit Ottawa, Canada KIA 1G6 in Person - Place du Portage III, 9C1 11 Laurier Street Hull, Quebec Copyright Canadia

19、n General Standards Board Provided by IHS under license with CGSBNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-CGSB CAN/CGSB- 34-24-93 tt L74b50 0023322 3T2 = NATIONAL STANDARD OF CANADA CANICGSB-38.24-93 Supersedes 38-GP-24M January 1979 CONSTRUCTION DETAILS FOR

20、 UNIFORM DRESS PANTS i Prepared Canadian by the Approved by the General Standards Board &* Standards Council of Canada Published July 1993 by the Canadian General Standards Board Ottawa, Canada K1A 1G6 Minister of Supply and Services bada - 1993 No part of this publication may be reproduced in any f

21、orm without the prior permission of the publisher. Copyright Canadian General Standards Board Provided by IHS under license with CGSBNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-CGSB CANICGSB- 38-24-93 ft 1874650 0023123 239 CANADIAN GENERAL STANDARDS BOARD COMM

22、ITTEE ON UNIFORM OUTERWEAR (Membership at date of approval) Bougie, D. Douglas, R.J. Firth, J.C. Friedlander, D. Gravelle, C. Hartwick, O. Hawkins, V. Kennedy, D. Laking, R.T. Legris, M. Salm, G. Sanders, B.A. Sennett, W. Shannon, E. Turner, T. Vaccari, J. Polsky, L. Secretary Department of National

23、 Defence Royal Canadian Mounted Police Firth Bros. Ltd. DHJ-Facemate Canada Inc. Department of National Revenue (Customs and Excise) Department of PuMic Works J. tk P. Coats Canada Inc. Canada Post Corporation Department of Transport Correctional Service of Canada Bell Tootal Inc. Department of Supp

24、ly and Services Canadian Uniform Ltd. University of Manitoba Bradshaw & Stradwick (1979) Inc. Sainthill-Levine Uniforms Canada Ltd. Canadian General Standards Board Acknowledgrnent is made for the French translation of this National Standard of Canada by the Translation Bureau of the Department of t

25、he Secretary of State. C ANJCGSB-38.24-93 Copyright Canadian General Standards Board Provided by IHS under license with CGSBNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-1. 1.1 2. 2.1 2.1.1 2.2 3. 3.1 3.2 4. 4.1 4.1.1 4.1.2 4.1.3 4.1.4 4.2 4.2.1 4.2.2 4.3 4.3.1 4

26、.3.2 CAN/CGSB-38.24-93 Supersedes 38-GP-24M January 1979 CANADIAN GENERAL STANDARDS BOARD CONSTRUCTION DETAILS FOR UNIFORM DRESS PANTS SCOPE This standard applies to the construction requirements of uniform dress pants. APPLICABLE PUBLICATIONS The following publications are applicable to this standa

27、rd: Canadian General Standards Board (CGSB) 38-GP-109 - Trousers, Mens Uniform Dress - Dimensions 54-GP-1 - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings CAN/CGSB-86.1 - Care Labelling of Textiles. Reference to the above publications is to the latest issues, unless otherwise specified by the authority applying thi

28、s standard. The source of these publications is shown in the Notes section. GENERAL REQUIREMENTS Uniform pants to this standard shall be free from imperfections and blemishes that may affect their appearance or serviceability, In all particulars not covered by this standard or where applicable the s

29、ealed sample, production shall be of the highest grade, reflected by best commercial practice. DETAILED REQUIREMENTS Components All shell components of the pants shall be from the same piece of shell material. All shell components shall be assembled so that when the garment is worn, the warp shall b

30、e vertical, with the fabric lines running in the same direction for all components of the garment, except for the waistband, and the facings and jettings of the pockets, where the warp may be horizontal. All shell components of each pair of pants shall be marked during production to ensure a uniform

31、 shade and proper assembly throughout. There shall be no discernible difference in shade between shell components of the finished garment. Crotch pieces may be used but these shall not exceed 5.7 cm in width and 16.5 cm in length. Outlet Allowances An outlet allowance of 13 mm in addition to the sea

32、m allowance shall be provided from knee-to-crotch at the inseam on the back portion. An outlet allowance of 4 cm in addition to seam allowance, shall be provided at centre back waist as shown in Figure I. Seams and Stitchings All seams shall not be less than 1 cm. unless otherwise specified (par. 5.

33、1). All seams and stitchings shall be Type 301 (CGSB standard 54-GP-I) lock stitch unless otherwise specified (par. 5.1). The leg seams and the centre hack seam shall be joined with a Type401 (CGSB standard 54-GP-1) double locked stitch. 1 Copyright Canadian General Standards Board Provided by IHS u

34、nder license with CGSBNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-CGSB CAN/CGSB- 38-24-73 * 1B79b50 0023125 001 The ends of all seams and stichings, and all breaks in the thread, shall be securely backstitched. Unless otherwise specified (par. 5.1) all raw edge

35、s shall be turned under and stitched. The number of stitches per centimetre for Type 301 and Type 401 stitches shall not be less than 4 and not more than 5. Stitches shall present a regular even appearance without fabric pucker, and shall be free from skips that may result from faulty machine thread

36、 tension or other stitching malfunction. Where seaming, turning and stitching is specified, the edges shall be properly worked out before stitching. Bar Tucks - Bar tacks shall be 1 crn with not less than 15 cover stitches and shall be inserted as follows: a. at each end of all pocket openings b. at

37、 the bottom of the fly opening. Muchine-Sewn Buttons - Machine-sewn buttons shall be sewn to the garment with 16 stitches per button. Thread shall be locked after stitching. Buttonholes - Buttonholes shall be “cut-first” or “cut-after”, and shall fit their related buttons. Buttonholes shall be eyele

38、t type, bar tacked and gimp reinforced. There shall not be less than 8 nor more than 11 cover stitches per centimetre. Appearance - Buttonholes shall be of neat appearance with even, continuous, secure and compactly placed stitches. “Cut-after” buttonholes shall have a clean cut made close to the st

39、itches and the edge of the cut shall be compatible in colour to the shade of the buttonhole thread. Serging - The raw edges of the fronts and backs, with the exception of the tops and bottoms, shall be serged using a two-or three-thread serger. There shall not be less than 2 stitches per centimetre.

40、 The back edges of the fly facing and interlining shall be serged together using a three-thread serger. Darts - A dart shall be sewn at the top of each back portion. The seam shall be pressed open. If an uncut dart is used, it shall be pressed toward the rear. Crotch Lining - Both fronts shall be li

41、ned at the crotch with one piece of fabric folded, the fold on bias. Side Opening Pockets and Slating Front Pockets (Figures 1 and 2) The pockets shall be of the type specified (par. 5.1) and made in accordance with details given below and in Figures 1 and 2. The back facing of both pocket styles sh

42、all be made of shell material which shall form an integral part of the pant front portion. Style A - Unless otherwise specified (par. 5.1), the front facing for side opening pockets shall be nylon canvas as specified in the standard for design and materials. When nylon canvas is applied, the edge of

43、 the canvas facing shall protrude 2 mm gauge beyond the shell material to form a protective edge. Style B - Unless otherwise specified (par. 5.1) the front facings for front opening pockets shall be made of shell material. The inner edge of pocket facings shall be turned under and stitched. Hip Pock

44、ets (Figures 1 and 2) The pockets shall be double-jetted or single-jetted and in accordance with Figures 1 and 2. Pockets shall be made of one or two pieces of pocketing. Both inner sides of the pocket opening shall be faced with shell material. The lower edge of the facings shall be turned under an

45、d stitched to the pocketings. The “V” portions at the ends of the pocket opening shall be tucked in and the ends of the pocket bar tacked. The inner ply of pocketing shall extend to the waistband and shall be stitched between the waistband and waistband lining. Note: The hip pockets muy be mude on u

46、n autoinatic jetted pocket niachine, providing the buck facing and pocketing are lock-stitched to the bock of the top jetting or sewn through the centre of the jetting seam. 4.3.3 4.3.4 4.3.5 4.3.6 4.3.7 4.3.8 4.3.8.1 4.3.8.2 4.3.9 4.3.9.1 4.4 4.5 4.6 4.6. 4.6.2 4.6.3 4.6.4 4.6.5 4.7 4.7.1 4.7.2 4.7

47、.3 4.7.4 2 CANKGSB-38.24-93 Copyright Canadian General Standards Board Provided by IHS under license with CGSBNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-4.8 4.9 4.10 4.10.1 4.10.2 4.10.3 4.10.4 4.1 1 4.11.1 4.11.2 4.1 1.3 4.12 4.12.1 4.12.2 4.12.3 4.12.4 4.13

48、CGSB CANICGSB- 38-24-73 tt 1874b50 002312b T48 TickeWatch Pocket - When a ticketlwatch pocket is required (par. 5.1), it shall be constructed with the opening in line with the lower edge of the waistband. The back of the opening shall be faced with shell material. The lower edge of the facing shall

49、be turned under and stitched. The inside front of the pocket shall be pocketing which has been seamed, turned and stitched to the shell material of the opening. When turned and stitched, the opening shall show a minimum of 2 mm of shell material for the entire width of the pocket. Pocketings - The edges of all pocketings shall be seamed, turned and stitched or, alternatively, the edges of the pocketings may be joined with a seam and safety stitch method. If the latter