1、March 2014 Translation by DIN-Sprachendienst.English price group 11No part of this translation may be reproduced without prior permission ofDIN Deutsches Institut fr Normung e. V., Berlin. Beuth Verlag GmbH, 10772 Berlin, Germany,has the exclusive right of sale for German Standards (DIN-Normen).ICS
2、97.220.40!%,hj“2096971www.din.deDDIN EN 12270Mountaineering equipment Chocks Safety requirements and test methods;English version EN 12270:2013,English translation of DIN EN 12270:2014-03Bergsteigerausrstung Klemmkeile Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prfverfahren;Englische Fassung EN 12270:2
3、013,Englische bersetzung von DIN EN 12270:2014-03Equipement dalpinisme et descalade Coinceurs Exigences de scurit et mthodes dessai;Version anglaise EN 12270:2013,Traduction anglaise de DIN EN 12270:2014-03SupersedesDIN EN 12270:1998-10www.beuth.deIn case of doubt, the German-language original shall
4、 be considered authoritative.Document comprises 20 pages 02.14 DIN EN 12270:2014-03 2 A comma is used as the decimal marker. Start of application The start of application of this standard is 2014-03-01. National foreword This standard includes safety requirements within the meaning of the Produktsic
5、herheitsgesetz (ProdSG) (German Product Safety Act). This document (EN 12270:2013) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, play-ground and other recreational facilities and equipment” (Secretariat: DIN, Germany). The responsible German body involved in its preparation was the No
6、rmenausschuss Sport- und Freizeitgert, Working Committee NA 112-04-05 AA Bergsteigerausrstung. Where this standard has been identified by the Ausschuss fr Produktsicherheit (German Committee for Product Safety) and reference to it has been published in the Gemeinsames Ministerialblatt (German Joint
7、Ministerial Gazette) by the Bundesanstalt fr Arbeitsschutz und Arbeitsmedizin (BAuA) (German Federal Institute for Occupational Safety and Health), it is to be presumed that chocks which comply with this standard fulfil the relevant health and safety requirements. Where they comply with the provisio
8、ns laid down in Section 5 of the Product Safety Act, such products may then be marked with the GS mark (German “safety tested” mark) as awarded to the manufacturer by an authorized “GS organization”. Amendments This standard differs from DIN EN 12270:1998-10 as follows: a) the standard has been edit
9、orially revised; b) Annex A “Protection provided by chocks” has been added; c) Annex B “Standards on mountaineering equipment” has been updated. Previous editions DIN 32919: 1988-07 DIN EN 12270: 1998-10 EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORM EN 12270 November 2013 ICS 97.220.40 Supersede
10、s EN 12270:1998English Version Mountaineering equipment - Chocks - Safety requirements and test methods quipement dalpinisme et descalade - Coinceurs - Exigences de scurit et mthodes dessai Bergsteigerausrstung - Klemmkeile - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prfverfahren This European Standar
11、d was approved by CEN on 28 September 2013. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning
12、such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its
13、own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany
14、, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and United Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NO
15、RMUNG CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels 2013 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN 12270:2013 EEN 12270:2013 (E) 2 Contents Page Foreword 3 1 Scope 4 2 Normative references 4 3 Terms and def
16、initions .4 4 Requirements .5 4.1 Design .5 4.2 Strength 5 5 Test methods 5 5.1 Test samples 5 5.2 Test apparatus for strength test .5 5.2.1 Layout .5 5.2.2 Adjustment 12 5.3 Conditioning and test conditions 12 5.4 Procedure 13 5.4.1 Design 13 5.4.2 Strength . 13 6 Marking 13 7 Information supplied
17、by the manufacturer 14 Annex A (informative) Protection provided by chocks 15 Annex B (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 16 Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC . 17 Bibliography . 18 DIN EN 12
18、270:2014-03 EN 12270:2013(E)3 Foreword This document (EN 12270:2013) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national stand
19、ard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by May 2014, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by May 2014. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN and
20、/or CENELEC shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. This document supersedes EN 12270:1998. This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU
21、Directive(s). For relationship with EU Directive(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document. In comparison with the previous edition EN 12270:1998, the following significant changes have been made: a) editorial revision; b) new Annex A “Protection provided by chocks” ad
22、ded; c) updated Annex B. According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic
23、of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom. DINEN 12270:2014-03EN 12270:2013 (E) 4 1 Scope This European S
24、tandard specifies safety requirements and test methods for chocks for use in mountaineering including climbing. 2 Normative references The following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the e
25、dition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN 564, Mountaineering equipment - Accessory cord - Safety requirements and test methods EN 565, Mountaineering equipment - Tape - Safety requirements and test methods EN 8
26、92, Mountaineering equipment - Dynamic mountaineering ropes - Safety requirements and test methods EN 1891, Personal protective equipment for the prevention of falls from a height - Low stretch kernmantel ropes EN ISO 139, Textiles - Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing (ISO 139) ISO 70
27、00, Graphical symbols for use on equipment - Registered symbols 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 chock non-adjustable body, which is intended to be wedged in cracks or cavities in the rock and which, due to its shape and orient
28、ation in the rock, can withstand a load Note 1 to entry: See Annex A for protection provided by chocks. 3.2 means of attachment part of a chock which allows the attachment of a connector Note 1 to entry: Applies to connectors in accordance with EN 12275. 3.3 holding force force necessary to cause th
29、e chock or its means of attachment to break or to be pulled through the test apparatus Note 1 to entry: The force is determined in the strength test according to 5.4.2. DIN EN 12270:2014-03 EN 12270:2013(E)5 4 Requirements 4.1 Design 4.1.1 Chocks may be fitted with a means of attachment by the manuf
30、acturer. 4.1.2 If a chock is not fitted with a means of attachment, the chock shall be designed such that a means of attachment consisting of tape (according to EN 565) or accessory cord (according to EN 564) or rope (according to EN 892 or EN 1891) can be affixed. 4.1.3 If there is a textile means
31、of attachment, whose strength is dependent on the integrity of the stitching, then the stitching shall contrast with the background in colour or surface appearance. 4.1.4 Any means of attachment shall be large enough to accommodate a pin with a diameter of (15 0,1) mm. 4.1.5 All edges of the chock a
32、nd/or the means of attachment that can come into contact with fingers or combinable components shall be free from burrs. 4.2 Strength When tested according to 5.4.2, the holding force shall be at least the one(s) marked on the chock (see Clause 6 b) and be not less than 2,0 kN. 5 Test methods 5.1 Te
33、st samples For the test, as many test samples shall be provided as there are different chock orientations indicated by the manufacturer in the instructions for use. If a chock model is manufactured in different sizes, each size shall be tested. 5.2 Test apparatus for strength test 5.2.1 Layout The a
34、pparatus consists of two round steel supporting jaws with a radius R = (65 2) mm for the chock and by means of a loading bar with a diameter of (10 0,1) mm for the means of attachment, see Figure 2 and Figure 6. An apparatus consisting of two round steel supporting jaws with a radius R = (25 1) mm s
35、hall be used for testing chocks where bmaxof the tested position S 12 kN If used correctly, sufficiently strong to withstand the highest conceivable forces generated in a fall. If used correctly, sufficiently strong to withstand the highest conceivable forces generated in a fall, provided a dynamic
36、belay is in use and effective. 12 S 7 kN Not recommended for use on its own, since it will not withstand the highest conceivable force. It may be used as one component of a belay system where the force of a fall is shared between the components. If used correctly, sufficiently strong to withstand ty
37、pical forces generated in a fall, provided a dynamic belay is in use and effective. It cannot be relied upon to withstand the highest forces that could be generated in a fall. S 7 kN Only to be used as part of a multicomponent belay system where the force of a fall will be shared between several com
38、ponents. Even if used correctly, and with a dynamic belay in use, it cannot be relied upon to withstand typical forces generated in a fall. Wherever possible, it should be backed up with one or more devices of similar strength, in such a way as to share the load. General The behaviour of a chock in
39、rock, when loaded dynamically, is not fully predictable. At least two independent anchor points should always be used, each capable of providing protection as above. DINEN 12270:2014-03EN 12270:2013(E)16 Annex B (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment Table B.1 List of standards on mount
40、aineering equipment No Document Title 1 EN 564 Mountaineering equipment Accessory cord Safety requirements and test methods 2 EN 565 Mountaineering equipment Tape Safety requirements and test methods 3 EN 566 Mountaineering equipment Slings Safety requirements and test methods 4 EN 567 Mountaineerin
41、g equipment Rope clamps Safety requirements and test methods 5 EN 568 Mountaineering equipment Ice anchors Safety requirements and test methods 6 EN 569 Mountaineering equipment Pitons Safety requirements and test methods 7 EN 892 Mountaineering equipment Dynamic mountaineering ropes Safety requirem
42、ents and test methods 8 EN 893 Mountaineering equipment Crampons Safety requirements and test methods 9 EN 958 Mountaineering equipment Energy absorbing systems for use in klettersteig (via ferrata) climbing Safety requirements and test methods 10 EN 959 Mountaineering equipment Rock anchors Safety
43、requirements and test methods 11 EN 12270 Mountaineering equipment Chocks Safety requirements and test methods 12 EN 12275 Mountaineering equipment Connectors Safety requirements and test methods 13 EN 12276 Mountaineering equipment Frictional anchors Safety requirements and test methods 14 EN 12277
44、 Mountaineering equipment Harnesses Safety requirements and test methods 15 EN 12278 Mountaineering equipment Pulleys Safety requirements and test methods 16 EN 12492 Mountaineering equipment Helmets for mountaineers Safety requirements and test methods 17 EN 13089 Mountaineering equipment Ice-tools
45、 Safety requirements and test methods 18 EN 151511 Mountaineering equipment Braking devices Part 1: Braking devices with manually assisted locking, safety requirements and test methods 19 EN 151512 Mountaineering equipment Braking devices Part 2: Manual braking devices, safety requirements and test
46、methods DINEN 12270:2014-03EN 12270:2013 (E) 17 Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC This European Standard has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade As
47、sociation to provide a means of conforming to Essential Requirements of the New Approach Directive 89/686/EEC. Once this standard is cited in the Official Journal of the European Union under that Directive and has been implemented as a national standard in at least one Member State, compliance with
48、the clauses of this standard given in Table ZA.1 confers, within the limits of the scope of this standard, a presumption of conformity with the corresponding Essential Requirements of that Directive and associated EFTA regulations. Table ZA.1 Correspondence between this European Standard and Directive 89/686/EEC Clause(s)/sub-clause(s) of this EN Essential Requirements (ERs) of Directive 89/686/EEC Qualifying remarks/Notes 4.1.5 1.2.1.2 Sati
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