1、February 2016 English price group 11No part of this translation may be reproduced without prior permission ofDIN Deutsches Institut fr Normung e. V., Berlin. Beuth Verlag GmbH, 10772 Berlin, Germany,has the exclusive right of sale for German Standards (DIN-Normen).ICS 97.220.40!%LS:“2414823www.din.d
2、eDIN EN 568Mountaineering equipment Ice anchors Safety requirements and test methods;English version EN 568:2015,English translation of DIN EN 568:2016-02Bergsteigerausrstung Verankerungsmittel im Eis Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prfverfahren;Englische Fassung EN 568:2015,Englische berset
3、zung von DIN EN 568:2016-02quipement dalpinisme et descalade Broches glace Exigences de scurit et mthodes dessai;Version anglaise EN 568:2015,Traduction anglaise de DIN EN 568:2016-02SupersedesDIN EN 568:2007-09www.beuth.deDocument comprises 17 pagesDTranslation by DIN-Sprachendienst.In case of doub
4、t, the German-language original shall be considered authoritative.03.16DIN EN 568:2016-02 2 A comma is used as the decimal marker. Start of application The start of application of this standard is 2016-02-01. National foreword This standard includes safety requirements within the meaning of the Prod
5、uktsicherheitsgesetz (ProdSG) (German Product Safety Act). This document (EN 568:2015) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, Working Group WG 5 “Mountaineering and climbing equipment” (Secretariat: DIN, Germany). The
6、 responsible German body involved in its preparation was DIN-Normenausschuss Sport- und Freizeitgert (DIN Standards Committee Sports Equipment), Working Committee NA 112-04-05 AA Bergsteigerausrstung. Where this standard has been identified by the Ausschuss fr Produktsicherheit (German Committee for
7、 Product Safety) and reference to it has been published in the Gemeinsames Ministerialblatt (German Joint Ministerial Gazette) by the Bundesanstalt fr Arbeitsschutz und Arbeitsmedizin (BAuA) (German Federal Institute for Occupational Safety and Health), it is to be presumed that ice anchors which co
8、mply with this standard fulfil the relevant health and safety requirements. Amendments This standard differs from DIN EN 568:2007-09 as follows: a) the option of using a block of cellular concrete instead of a block of ice type 2 when determining the holding force of ice anchors has been included; b
9、) the figures have been clarified. Previous editions DIN 32918: 1989-01 DIN EN 568: 1993-01, 1997-04, 2007-09 EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORM EN 568 November 2015 ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 568:2007English Version Mountaineering equipment - Ice anchors - Safety requirements and te
10、st methods quipement dalpinisme et descalade - Broches glace - Exigences de scurit et mthodes dessai Bergsteigerausrstung - Verankerungsmittel im Eis - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on 26 September 2015. CEN members are bound to compl
11、y with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC
12、Management Centre or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the sam
13、e status as the official versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg,
14、 Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey andUnited Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNG CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels 2015
15、 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN 568:2015 EEN 568:2015 (E) 2 Contents Page European foreword . 3 Introduction 4 1 Scope 5 2 Normative references 5 3 Terms and definitions . 5 4 Safety requirements . 5 4.1 Design 5 4
16、.2 Resistance to hammering of ice pitons 6 4.3 Screwability of the ice screws . 6 4.4 Holding strength 6 4.4.1 Holding strength in the radial direction . 6 4.4.2 Holding strength in the axial direction . 6 5 Test methods 7 5.1 Examination of design . 7 5.2 Determination of screwability of the ice sc
17、rews and resistance to fracture and holding force of ice anchors 7 5.2.1 Test samples . 7 5.2.2 Apparatus . 7 5.2.3 Preparation of the test block 8 5.2.4 Procedure. 9 6 Marking 11 7 Information supplied by the manufacturer 12 Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 13 Annex ZA
18、(informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC 14 Bibliography . 15 DINEN 568:2016-02EN 568:2015 (E) 3 European foreword This document (EN 568:2015) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other
19、recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by May 2016, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at
20、the latest by May 2016. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN and/or CENELEC shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN b
21、y the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive(s). For relationship with EU Directive, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document. This document supersedes EN 568:2007. In comparison with the previous e
22、dition, the following major changes were made: a) now included: the option of using cellular concrete in holding strength test instead of ice type 2; b) clarification of figures. According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bo
23、und to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portug
24、al, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom. DINEN 568:2016-02EN 568:2015 (E) 4 Introduction The text of this European Standard is based on the former UIAA-Standard Q “ice anchors“ (Union Internationale des Associations dAlpinisme), which has been devel
25、oped with international participation. This European Standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment (see Annex A). DINEN 568:2016-02EN 568:2015(E)5 1 Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice anchors, i.e. ice screws and ice pitons fo
26、r use in mountaineering including climbing. 2 Normative references The following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of
27、the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN 566, Mountaineering equipment Slings Safety requirements and test methods 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 ice anchor general term for ice screws and ice pitons 3.2
28、 ice screw anchor which is screwed into the ice and is screwed out again after use 3.3 ice piton anchor which is hammered into the ice and is removed again after use 3.4 placement length l length of the anchor from its end to the part of the eye/connector hole intended to be in contact with the ice
29、after it has been screwed or hammered in Note 1 to entry: See Figure 1. Figure 1 Placement length, l 4 Safety requirements 4.1 Design 4.1.1 Ice screws shall consist of a cylindrical or semi-cylindrical hollow body with thread. At the screw head, there is an eye into which a connector can be clipped.
30、 Ice pitons shall consist of a cylindrical or semi-cylindrical hollow body and have an eye into which a connector can be clipped. DINEN 568:2016-02EN 568:2015 (E) 6 4.1.2 The head and the eye shall be free from burr and sharp edges. The internal edges of the eye shall be rounded with a radius larger
31、 than 0,2 mm or have a chamfer larger than 0,2 mm 45. See a) in Figure 2. Dimensions in millimetres a) b) Figure 2 Attachment point eye dimensions 4.1.3 When tested according to 5.1, the eye shall have an internal diameter of at least 15 mm. See b) in Figure 2. 4.2 Resistance to hammering of ice pit
32、ons When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.1, ice pitons shall not show any deformation likely to affect safety, e.g. cracks or separation of components. The impact area of the head shall remain sufficiently intact so as to allow further hammering. NOTE Deformation due to hammering, as occurs with chi
33、sels, is not considered detrimental. If the ice anchor has a sling for attachment, which is removable without tools, the sling shall conform to EN 566. 4.3 Screwability of the ice screws When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.2 after a maximum of 10 full rotations of the ice screw the penetration of t
34、he following rotation shall be equal to the pitch of the thread of the ice screw. 4.4 Holding strength 4.4.1 Holding strength in the radial direction When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.3.1, anchors shall withstand a force of at least 10 kN in the radial direction, without being pulled out of the i
35、ce or breaking. Permanent deformation during the test is permitted. 4.4.2 Holding strength in the axial direction When tested in the axial direction in accordance with 5.2.4.3.2, ice anchors shall withstand a force of at least 5 kN without the hanger breaking or becoming detached. All test samples s
36、hall meet the requirement. DINEN 568:2016-02EN 568:2015 (E) 7 5 Test methods 5.1 Examination of design Test the requirements specified in 4.1 by tactile and visual examination and measurement. 5.2 Determination of screwability of the ice screws and resistance to fracture and holding force of ice anc
37、hors 5.2.1 Test samples Carry out the test on four ice screws or four ice pitons according to Table 1. Table 1 Number of test samples Type of ice anchor Number of samples for testing according to 5.2.4.1 5.2.4.2 5.2.4.3.1 5.2.4.3.2 Ice piton 1 (largest length)b0 3 (shortest length)b0 Ice screw 0 1a3
38、 (shortest length)b1 aAfter being tested according to 5.2.4.2, the ice screw is used for the test according to 5.2.4.3.2. bIf anchors of different length, but otherwise same design, are available. 5.2.2 Apparatus 5.2.2.1 Ice blocks. 5.2.2.2 Steel ice container of the following dimensions: minimum le
39、ngth 350 mm minimum width 220 mm minimum depth 330 mm internal dimensions minimum wall thickness 6 mm The base of the ice container shall be rigid so that it does not influence the test results. 5.2.2.3 A vertically guided falling body of mass (10 0,02) kg with a flat impact area of 30 mm ( 10) mm d
40、iameter of hardness, HV (40) = (800 10) %. 5.2.2.4 A device as shown in Figure 3 to hold a shaft at right angles to the ice surface, the lower end of the shaft having a clamping mechanism for an ice screw, which holds the screw concentrically. A lever is fitted to the top of the shaft for screwing i
41、n the ice screw. DINEN 568:2016-02EN 568:2015 (E) 8 Key 1 rotary shaft 2 guide 3 radial clamp 4 ice Figure 3 Device for testing the screwability of ice screws 5.2.3 Preparation of the test block 5.2.3.1 Type 1: Fill the ice container with potable water and store it at ( 10 1) C for at least 20 h. Sm
42、ooth off any uneven surface of the ice. 5.2.3.2 Type 2: Fill the ice container alternately 50 mm deep with layers of ice grains with a maximum diameter of 10 mm and 250 ml of cold potable water and store it at ( 8 2) C, for at least 20 h. When the ice container is full, load the ice for (5 0,5) min
43、with a steel plate of mass (100 2) kg, the clearance between the steel plate and the side walls of the container not exceeding 10 mm. The ice block shall be used immediately for testing according to 5.2.4.3.1. The block of ice type 2 can be alternatively replaced by a block of cellular concrete with
44、 following characteristics: Material: cellular concrete Density: 500 kg/m3( 50) kg/m3 Compressive strength: 4 MPa 0,25 MPa Minimum dimensions: Width: 200 mm, Height: 400 mm, Depth: 250 mm DINEN 568:2016-02EN 568:2015(E)9 High, low, left and right faces have to be held with metal plates to avoid crac
45、ks The temperature treatment for the test has to be analogue to ice type 2 5.2.4 Procedure 5.2.4.1 Determination of resistance of ice pitons when hammered in Carry out the test at ( 10 3) C. Drive the ice piton into an ice block of type 1, using a vertically guided falling body. Ensure that the ice
46、surface is horizontal and that the ice piton is within 1 of vertical before the first drop. For the first impact, fix the drop height at (375 5) mm above the impact surface of the ice piton. For each successive impact, increase the drop height by the amount the piton has penetrated the ice. Hammer i
47、n the ice piton until the lower edge of the eye is in contact with the surface of the ice. Repeat the procedure, inserting and pulling out the piton slowly from the ice 100 times, without removing the ice core between the individual placements. The piton may be placed in the same ice block several t
48、imes, providing the placements are at least 75 mm apart from each other and from the edges. 5.2.4.2 Determination of screwability of ice screws Fix the ice screw concentrically to the shaft of the holding device by means of the clamp. Store the ice screw and test device at ( 10 1) C for a minimum of
49、 4 h. Place the ice screw on the surface of a type 1 ice block and adjust the holding device to keep the ice screw at right angle to the ice surface. Screw in the ice screw with a continuous contact force of (120 3) N. After a maximum of 10 turns check that the requirements specified in 4.3 are met. Complete the test within 5 min of removal from the conditioning atmosphere. 5.2.4.3 Determination of holding strength of ice anchors 5.2.4.3.1 Testing in radial direction Testing shall
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