1、May 2007DEUTSCHE NORM English price group 8No part of this standard may be reproduced without prior permission ofDIN Deutsches Institut fr Normung e. V., Berlin. Beuth Verlag GmbH, 10772 Berlin, Germany,has the exclusive right of sale for German Standards (DIN-Normen).ICS 97.220.40!,xOB“9854431www.d
2、in.deDDIN EN 569Mountaineering equipment Pitons Safety requirements and test methodsEnglish version of DIN EN 569:2007-05Bergsteigerausrstung Felshaken Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und PrfverfahrenEnglische Fassung DIN EN 569:2007-05SupersedesDIN EN 569:1997-04www.beuth.deDocument comprises 1
3、3 pages 08.07DIN EN 569:2007-05 2 Start of validity This standard is valid from 1 May 2007. National foreword This standard includes safety requirements within the meaning of the Gerte- und Produktsicherheitsgesetz (GPSG) (German Equipment and Consumer Goods Safety Law). This standard has been prepa
4、red by CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational equipment”, the Secretariat of which is held by DIN (Germany). The responsible German body involved in its preparation was the Normenausschuss Sport- und Freizeitgert (Sports Equipment Standards Committee), Technical Committee NA 112-04-05
5、 AA Bergsteigerausrstung. Pitons as specified in this standard fall within the scope of the Gerte- und Produktsicherheitsgesetz (GPSG). Once compliance with the requirements specified in 7 of the GPSG has been verified by an accredited test house, the pitons may be marked with the symbol GS (= geprf
6、te Sicherheit, safety tested). Amendments This standard differs from DIN EN 569:1997-04 as follows: a) The new style rules for European standards have been taken into account. b) The list of standards on mountaineering equipment given in Annex A has been updated. Previous editions DIN 33945: 1990-03
7、 DIN EN 569: 1993-01, 1997-04 EUROPEAN STANDARDNORME EUROPENNEEUROPISCHE NORMEN 569February 2007ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 569:1997 English VersionMountaineering equipment - Pitons - Safety requirements andtest methodsEquipement dalpinisme et descalade - Pitons - Exigencesde scurit et mthodes dessa
8、iBergsteigerausrstung - Felshaken - SicherheitstechnischeAnforderungen und PrfverfahrenThis European Standard was approved by CEN on 13 January 2007.CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this EuropeanStandard the status of
9、 a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such nationalstandards may be obtained on application to the CEN Management Centre or to any CEN member.This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A versio
10、n in any other language made by translationunder the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN Management Centre has the same status as theofficial versions.CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark
11、, Estonia, Finland,France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal,Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATIONCOMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATIONEUR
12、OPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNGManagement Centre: rue de Stassart, 36 B-1050 Brussels 2007 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reservedworldwide for CEN national Members.Ref. No. EN 569:2007: EEN 569:2007 (E) 2 Contents Page Foreword3 Introduction .4 1 Scope 5 2 Terms and definit
13、ions .5 3 Safety requirements 5 3.1 Design .5 3.2 Breaking force6 4 Test method6 4.1 Examination of design 6 4.2 Determination of breaking force 7 4.2.1 Test samples 7 4.2.2 Test conditions 7 4.2.3 Apparatus .7 4.2.4 Preparation and positioning of test samples8 4.2.5 Procedure .8 5 Marking .9 6 Info
14、rmation supplied by the manufacturer .9 Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment10 Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard an the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC11 EN 569:2007 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN 569:2007) has been prepared
15、 by the Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by August 2007,
16、and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by August 2007. This document supersedes EN 569:1997. This European Standard has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association to support Essential Requirements of EU D
17、irective 89/686/EEC. For relationship with EU Directive(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this European Standard. According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard:
18、 Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom. EN 569:2
19、007 (E) 4 Introduction The text of this European Standard is based on the former UIAA-Standard R (Union Internationale des Associations dAlpinisme), which has been developed with international participation. This European Standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see An
20、nex A. EN 569:2007 (E) 5 1 Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for pitons for use in mountaineering including climbing. 2 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 2.1 piton device which, when inserted
21、into a rock crack by means of a hammer or equivalent device, provides an anchor NOTE Two parts can normally be identified in the piton: the head and the blade. 2.2 head part of the piton which contains the attachment point eye (or eyes) used for connection to the rope (via a connector) and which is
22、usually the part struck when inserting the piton 2.3 blade part of the piton which is inserted into the rock crack 2.4 length of the piton length of the blade measured in the direction of its insertion into the crack 2.5 pulling shackle tool used to apply the force in the test 2.6 safety piton piton
23、 which exhibits a high breaking force (see Table 1) and having a length of at least 90 mm 2.7 progression piton piton with a lower breaking force than safety pitons (see Table 1) 3 Safety requirements 3.1 Design 3.1.1 The eye shall be at least 3 mm thick (see Figure 1). 3.1.2 The internal edges of t
24、he eye shall be rounded with a radius larger than 0,2 mm or larger than 0,2 mm 45. See a) in Figure 1. EN 569:2007 (E) 6 Dimensions in millimetres a) Bevelled edges b) Rounded edges Figure 1 Attachment point eye dimensions 3.1.3 When tested according to 4.1, the eye shall have an internal diameter o
25、f at least 15 mm. See b) in Figure 1. 3.1.4 If pitons are made from heat treated steel with a hardness greater than 38 HRC they have to appear dark. Pitons which are made from all other materials and a hardness less than 22 HRC have to appear light. The head and the eye shall be free from burrs and
26、sharp edges. 3.2 Breaking force When tested in accordance with 4.2, the breaking force shall be not less than the appropriate value given in Table 1. Table 1 Minimum values of breaking force Breaking force F1F2F3Type kN kN kNSafety pitons 25 10 15 Progression pitons 12,5 5 7,5 F1is the normal direct
27、ion specified by the manufacturer; F2is the reverse direction; F3is the sideways direction (see Figures 2 and 3). 4 Test method 4.1 Examination of design The requirements according to 3.1 shall be tested by measurement or tactile examination on one test sample. EN 569:2007 (E) 7 4.2 Determination of
28、 breaking force 4.2.1 Test samples If a piton model is produced in different lengths, test only the shortest length in accordance with 4.2.5. For each test direction a new test sample is to be used. 4.2.2 Test conditions Carry out the test at a temperature of (23 5) C. 4.2.3 Apparatus The apparatus
29、shall consist of a) a vice for holding the piton at a pressure that does not lead to visible deformation of the test sample and with edges of the two jaws holding the piton rounded to a radius of (5 0,5) mm (see Figure 2). At least one of the jaws rotates in order to accommodate any tapered shape in
30、 the piton; b) a means of preventing extraction and rotation of the piton, e.g. one or two pins. Ensure that the outer hole drilled in the piton blade respectively the fixing system remains at least 20 mm from the outer surface of the jaw (see Figure 2); c) a pulling shackle, made of steel, with a d
31、iameter of (10 0,1) mm to apply a force on the piton, the part of this device which is nearest to the piton being as indicated in Figures 2 and 3. The shackle rotates freely around axes X and Y (see Figure 3), to allow free deformation of the piton. Dimensions in millimetres Figure 2 Part of the tes
32、t device (Example 1) EN 569:2007 (E) 8 Dimensions in millimetres Figure 3 Part of the test device (Example 2) 4.2.4 Preparation and positioning of test samples If necessary, drill holes in the piton and jaw of the vice to accommodate the holding pins. If this method of fixing is not feasible, use ot
33、her means as advised by the manufacturer. NOTE The manufacturer can provide means to prevent rotation during side pull, particularly in cases where only one pin can be used. Ensure that the holding system does not cause rupture of the piton. For positioning apply a force of (100 10) N to the pulling
34、 device in “F1“ direction with an initial distance of the line of action of the pulling force from the jaw surface of (20 0,5) mm (see Figure 2). If this cannot be achieved, use the smallest possible distance. Use the same distance for each direction of force. 4.2.5 Procedure Apply a force with a tr
35、action speed of (35 15) mm/min in the three following directions: a) normal direction (F1), specified by the manufacturer; b) reverse direction (F2); c) sideways direction (F3). EN 569:2007 (E) 9 If the piton is asymmetric, repeat the side pull in the opposing direction on an unloaded test sample. I
36、f the test sample does not break when a force of 30 kN has been reached, terminate the test and report a value of 30 kN. 5 Marking The head of each piton shall be marked with at least the following information: a) name of the manufacturer or its representative in the European Community; b) piton len
37、gth, expressed in centimetres rounded down to the nearest whole centimetre. Safety pitons shall be marked with the letter “S“ in a circle. If there is insufficient space on the head, the name or trademark of the manufacturer may be affixed to the piton blade. 6 Information supplied by the manufactur
38、er The piton shall be supplied with an explanatory leaflet, and written in at least the official language(s) of the state of destination within the European Community containing at least the following items; a) name and address of the manufacturer or its representative in the European Community; b)
39、number of this European Standard, i.e. EN 569; c) meaning of any markings on the product; d) explanation of the indication of length; e) explanation of the symbol “S“; f) information that the breaking force and the holding capacity of a piton placed in a rock will be reduced as time passes and that
40、multiple use of a piton may also reduce its strength; g) use of the product; h) how to choose other components for use in the system; i) how to maintain and service the product; j) lifespan of the product; k) effects of chemical reagents and temperature on the product. EN 569:2007 (E) 10 Annex A (in
41、formative) Standards on mountaineering equipment Table A.1 List of standards on mountaineering equipment No Document Title 1 EN 892 Mountaineering equipment Dynamic mountaineering ropes Safety requirements and test methods 2 EN 12275 Mountaineering equipment Connectors Safety requirements and test m
42、ethods 3 EN 13089 Mountaineering equipment Ice-tools Safety requirements and test methods 4 EN 12277 Mountaineering equipment Harnesses Safety requirements and test methods 5 EN 12492 Mountaineering equipment Helmets for mountaineers Safety requirements and test methods 6 EN 564 Mountaineering equip
43、ment Accessory cord Safety requirements and test methods 7 EN 565 Mountaineering equipment Tape Safety requirements and test methods 8 EN 566 Mountaineering equipment Slings Safety requirements and test methods 9 EN 12276 Mountaineering equipment Frictional anchors Safety requirements and test metho
44、ds 10 EN 12270 Mountaineering equipment Chocks Safety requirements and test methods 11 EN 567 Mountaineering equipment Rope clamps Safety requirements and test methods12 EN 958 Mountaineering equipment Energy absorbing systems for use in klettersteig (via ferrata) climbing Safety requirements and te
45、st methods 13 EN 959 Mountaineering equipment Rock anchors Safety requirements and test methods 14 EN 568 Mountaineering equipment Ice anchors Safety requirements and test methods 15 EN 569 Mountaineering equipment Pitons Safety requirements and test methods 16 EN 893 Mountaineering equipment Crampo
46、ns Safety requirements and test methods 17 prEN 15151 Mountaineering equipment Descenders Safety requirements and test methods 18 EN 12278 Mountaineering equipment Pulleys Safety requirements and test methods EN 569:2007 (E) 11 Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard an th
47、e Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC This European Standard has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association to provide a means of conforming to Essential Requirements of the New Approach Directive 89/686/EEC on the appr
48、oximation of the laws of the Member States relating to personal protective equipment. Once this standard is cited in the Official Journal of the European Communities under that Directive and has been implemented as a national standard in at least one Member State, compliance with the clauses of this
49、 standard given in Table ZA.1 confers, within the limits of the scope of this standard, a presumption of conformity with the corresponding Essential Requirements of that Directive and associated EFTA regulations. Table ZA.1 Correspondence between this European Standard and Directive 89/686/EEC Clause(s)/subclause(s) of this EN Essential Requirements (ERs) of Directive 89/686/EEC Qualifying remarks/Notes 3.1 1.2.1 Absence of risk and other factors 3.2 1.3.2
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