1、December 2016 English price group 14No part of this translation may be reproduced without prior permission ofDIN Deutsches Institut fr Normung e. V., Berlin. Beuth Verlag GmbH, 10772 Berlin, Germany,has the exclusive right of sale for German Standards (DIN-Normen).ICS 97.220.40!%V4“2595117www.din.de
2、DIN EN 892Mountaineering equipment Dynamic mountaineering ropes Safety requirements and test methods;English version EN 892:2012+A1:2016,English translation of DIN EN 892:2016-12Bergsteigerausrstung Dynamische Bergseile Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prfverfahren;Englische Fassung EN 892:20
3、12+A1:2016,Englische bersetzung von DIN EN 892:2016-12quipement dalpinisme et descalade Cordes dynamiques Exigences de scurit et mthodes dessai;Version anglaise EN 892:2012+A1:2016,Traduction anglaise de DIN EN 892:2016-12SupersedesDIN EN 892:201211See start of applicationwww.beuth.deDTranslation by
4、 DIN-Sprachendienst.In case of doubt, the German-language original shall be considered authoritative.Document comprises 29 pages 11.16 2 A comma is used as the decimal marker. Start of application The start of application of this standard is 2016-12-01. National foreword This standard includes safet
5、y requirements within the meaning of the Produktsicherheitsgesetz (ProdSG) (German Product Safety Act). This document (EN 892:2012+A1:2016) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, Working Group WG 5 “Mountaineering and
6、 climbing equipment” (Secretariat: DIN, Germany). The responsible German body involved in its preparation was DIN-Normenausschuss Sport- und Freizeitgert (DIN Standards Committee Sports Equipment), Working Committee NA 112-04-05 AA Bergsteigeraus-rstung. Where this standard has been identified by th
7、e Ausschuss fr Produktsicherheit (German Committee for Product Safety) and reference to it has been published in the Gemeinsames Ministerialblatt (German Joint Ministerial Gazette) by the Bundesanstalt fr Arbeitsschutz und Arbeitsmedizin (BAuA) (German Federal Institute for Occupational Safety and H
8、ealth), it is to be presumed that dynamic mountaineering ropes which comply with this standard fulfil the relevant health and safety requirements. This document includes Amendment A1 approved by CEN on 9 June 2016. The start and finish of text introduced or altered by amendment is indicated in the t
9、ext by tags !“. The amendments identified in the European foreword are not part of Amendment A1:2016 to EN 892:2012, but denote the amendments made to EN 892:2012 compared with the 2004 edition of the standard. Amendments This standard differs from DIN EN 892:2012-11 as follows: a) the standard has
10、been editorially revised; b) Figure 4 has been revised; c) Figure 6 has been revised; d) Figure 9 has been revised; e) in Subclause 5.6.3 “Procedure”, the procedure to be followed for the drop test to determine the peak force during fall arrest, the dynamic elongation and the number of drops has bee
11、n changed; f) in Subclause 5.6.4 “Expression of results”, a formula for calculating the dynamic elongation has been included. Previous editions DIN 7946: 1984-01 DIN EN 892: 1996-11, 2005-02, 2012-11 DIN EN 892:2016-12 EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORM EN 892:2012+A1 August 2016 ICS
12、97.220.40 Supersedes EN 892:2012English Version Mountaineering equipment - Dynamic mountaineering ropes - Safety requirements and test methods quipement dalpinisme et descalade - Cordes dynamiques - Exigences de scurit et mthodes dessai Bergsteigerausrstung - Dynamische Bergseile - Sicherheitstechni
13、sche Anforderungen und Prfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on 13 July 2012 and includes Amendment 1 approved by CEN on 9 June 2016. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the statu
14、s of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, Ger
15、man). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croati
16、a, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey andUnit
17、ed Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNG CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels 2016 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN
18、892:2012+A1:2016 EEN 892:2012+A1:2016 (E) 2 Contents Page European foreword . 3 Introduction 4 1 Scope 5 2 Normative references 5 3 Terms and definitions . 5 4 Safety requirements . 7 5 Test methods 9 6 Marking 24 7 Information to be supplied by the manufacturer . 25 Annex A (informative) Standards
19、on mountaineering equipment 26 Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC Personal Protective Equipment 27 DIN EN 892:2016-12 EN 892:2012+A1:2016 (E) 3 European foreword This document (EN 892:2012+A1:2016) has been pre
20、pared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest
21、by February 2017, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by February 2017. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN and/or CENELEC shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all su
22、ch patent rights. This document includes Amendment 1 approved by CEN on 2016-06-09. This document supersedes !EN 892:2012“. The start and finish of text introduced or altered by amendment is indicated in the text by tags !“. This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the Europea
23、n Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive(s). For relationship with EU Directive(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document. The main changes compared to EN 892:2004 are: a) editorial changes; b) conditioni
24、ng climate in 5.2 was changed; c) dimension of the remaining tape for preparation of the sheath slippage test in 5.4.2 was changed; d) allowed slippage of the rope in the drop test in 5.6.3. According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following coun
25、tries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Po
26、land, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom. DIN EN 892:2016-12 EN 892:2012+A1:2016 (E) 4 Introduction The text is based on UIAA-Standard B (International Mountaineering and Climbing federation), which has been prepared with international pa
27、rticipation. This standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A. DIN EN 892:2016-12 EN 892:2012+A1:2016 (E) 5 1 Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for dynamic ropes (single, half and twin ropes) in kernmantel construction
28、 for use in mountaineering including climbing. 2 Normative references The following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition
29、of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN ISO 6508-1, Metallic materials Rockwell hardness test Part 1: Test method (scales A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, K, N, T) (ISO 6508-1) ISO 6487, Road vehicles Measurement techniques in impact tests Instrumentation 3 Terms and definitions For
30、 the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 dynamic mountaineering rope rope, which is capable, when used as a component in the safety chain, of arresting the free fall of a person engaged in mountaineering or climbing with a limited peak force 3.2 single rope dyna
31、mic mountaineering rope, capable of being used singly, as a link in the safety chain, to arrest a leaders fall 3.3 half rope dynamic mountaineering rope, which is capable, when used in pairs, as a link in the safety chain to arrest the leaders fall Note 1 to entry: See Figure 1. 3.4 twin rope dynami
32、c mountaineering rope, which is capable, when used in pairs and parallel, as a link in the safety chain to arrest a leaders fall Note 1 to entry: See Figure 2. DIN EN 892:2016-12 EN 892:2012+A1:2016 (E) 6 Figure 1 Examples of use on half ropes DIN EN 892:2016-12EN 892:2012+A1:2016 (E) 7 Figure 2 Use
33、 of twin ropes 3.5 kernmantel rope rope composed of a core and a sheath 3.6 safety chain connection of linked elements which protects the climber or mountaineer against falls from a height Note 1 to entry: The safety chain includes ropes connected to the anchors by connectors and to the climbers by
34、harnesses. 4 Safety requirements 4.1 Construction Dynamic ropes in accordance with this European Standard shall be made in a kernmantel construction. Diameter and mass per unit length are relevant characteristics. See test method in 5.3. If the properties of the rope change along its length, for exa
35、mple: diameter, strength, markings, samples from each section shall be submitted for testing. The information to be supplied shall all correspond to the lowest performance section of the rope. 4.2 Sheath slippage When tested in accordance with 5.4, the sheath slippage in a longitudinal direction rel
36、ative to the core (in positive or negative direction) shall not exceed 1 % (20 mm) (see Figure 3). DIN EN 892:2016-12 EN 892:2012+A1:2016 (E) 8 Key 1 sheath 2 core a positive sheath slippage 20 mm b negative sheath slippage 20 mm Figure 3 Sheath slippage 4.3 Static elongation When tested in accordan
37、ce with 5.5, the static elongation shall not exceed: 10 % in single ropes (single strand of rope); 12 % in half ropes (single strand of rope); 10 % in twin ropes (double strand of rope). 4.4 Dynamic Elongation When tested in accordance with 5.6, the dynamic elongation shall not exceed 40 % during th
38、e first drop for each test sample. 4.5 Peak force during fall arrest, number of drops 4.5.1 Peak force in the rope When tested in accordance with 5.6, the peak force in the rope, during the first drop, for each test sample, shall not exceed: 12 kN in single ropes (single strand of rope); 8 kN in hal
39、f ropes (single strand of rope); 12 kN in twin ropes (double strand of rope). 4.5.2 Number of drops When tested in accordance with 5.6, each rope sample shall withstand at least 5, for twin ropes at least 12, consecutive drop tests without breaking. DIN EN 892:2016-12 EN 892:2012+A1:2016 (E) 9 5 Tes
40、t methods 5.1 Test samples A test sample with a length of: 40 m for single and half ropes, 80 m or 2 40 m for twin rope; shall be available for the tests. Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.3 on an unused test sample. Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.4 on two unused test samples with a
41、 length of (2 250 10) mm. Carry out the test in accordance with 5.5 on two unused test samples with a length of at least 1 500 mm. Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.6 on three unused test samples with a minimum length of 5 m for single and half ropes, and 10 m for twin ropes, cut out of the a
42、vailable test sample. 5.2 Conditioning and test conditions Dry the test samples for at least 24 h in an atmosphere of (50 5) C and less than 20 % relative humidity. Then condition these test samples in an atmosphere of (23 2) C and (50 2) % relative humidity for at least 72 h. Then start testing the
43、se samples at a temperature of (23 5) C within 10 min. 5.3 Construction, diameter, and mass per unit length 5.3.1 Procedure Clamp the test sample at one end. Load the test sample without shock with a mass1)of: (10 0,1) kg for single ropes, (6 0,1) kg for half ropes, (5 0,1) kg for twin ropes at a di
44、stance of at least 1 200 mm from the clamp. After applying the load for 60 s mark within the next 10 s a reference length of (1 000 1) mm on the test sample. The distance of the marking from the clamp or attachment for the test sample shall be at least 50 mm. Within a further 3 min measure the diame
45、ter in two directions around the diameter starting at points 90 apart at each of three levels approximately 100 mm apart. If the rope cross section is not circular, the maximum and minimum diameter are to be determined in each section. The length of the contact areas of the measuring instrument shal
46、l be (50 1) mm. The rope cross-sectional area shall not be subject to any compression during the measurement. Then cut out the marked portion of the test sample and determine the mass to the nearest 0,1 g. 1)The mass can be introduced by a corresponding force. DIN EN 892:2016-12 EN 892:2012+A1:2016
47、(E) 10 Check that the construction of the rope is a kernmantel construction. 5.3.2 Expression of results Express the diameter as the arithmetic mean of the six measurements to the nearest 0,1 mm. Express the mass per unit length in ktex or g/m to the nearest 1 g. 5.4 Sheath slippage 5.4.1 Principle
48、The rope is drawn through the apparatus illustrated in Figure 4, where the movement is restricted by radial forces. The resulting frictional force on the sheath causes slippage of the sheath relative to the core. The extent of this slippage is measured. Dimensions in millimetres ! “ Key 1 moving pla
49、tes 2 spacers 3 fixed plates Figure 4 Apparatus for testing the sheath slippage 5.4.2 Preparation of the test samples Fuse one end of the sheath and core of each test sample together. Before cutting the other end of each test sample to size, apply a short length of adhesive tape around the rope, where it is to be cut, at right angles to the axis of the rope. The adhesive tape shall be at least 12 mm wid
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