DLA A-A-55111 A-1993 COAT ALL-WEATHER WOMAN-S W REMOVABLE LINER《女式W 可拆卸衬垫全天候外套》.pdf

1、- . A-A-55333A 9999974 0356265 73T m A-A-55111A November 18, 1993 SUPERSEDING December 28, 1992 A-A-5 5 11 1 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION COAT, ALL-WEATHER, WOMANS, w/REMOVABLE LINER The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this commercial item description in preference to MIL-R-

2、24919. Abstract. This commercial item description covers the requirements for a womans all-weather coat made of water- repellant treated polyester/cotton poplin with a removable insulated liner. Classification. The coat shall be one type in the following sizes and lengths: Sizes: 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 1

3、6, 18, 20, 22 Lengths: Short, Regular, Long O Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FSSD, 2800 South 20t

4、h Street, Philadelphia, PA 19101-8419, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. O Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo r

5、eproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55LZZA 9999974 OL5b2bb b7b = A-A-5511lA Description. The all-weather coat shall be double breasted with a five bfitton closure, 2 piece front (princess style), one piece back, a lined back yoke, two piece raglan sleeve with a two p

6、iece buckled strap at the bottom. The coat shall be fully lined with a one inch center back pleat, and a hanger loop at center back, semi-stand-up cellar with pointed ends, button loop shoulder epaulets, two vertical welted pockets, and a detachable 1-3/4 inch wide, minus 1/8 inch tolerance only, wa

7、istline belt with a buckle, held by a single loop at left side seam and double loop at right side seam. The belt shall have a buttoned belt anchor or the right side only and a belt loop keeper on the front of the belt 4-1/2 inches from the buckle. The coat shall have a zippered, removable, quilted,

8、insulated liner with sleeves (see Figures 1 and 2). All seam shall have 8-10 stitches per inch. Front edges, lapels, collar, epaulets, sleeve strap, belt, pocket welts, botton edge of storm yoke, and lapped seams shall be topstitched 5/16 inch. Bottom hem shall be topstitched 1 inch. All lapped seam

9、s shall contain fused sean web material. Sleeve underarm seams (lining and basic fabric) shall be tacked together on the seam allowance for 4 inches starting 5 inches from bottom of cuff. The lining shall be tacked to the shell fabric on the side seam at the hem edge of the coat with a 2 inch anchor

10、 loop. The coat shall have twelve 40-line buttons (5 on each front, 1 as a reinforcement under the third button from the top on the right front, and 1 on inside left facing below combination label) and three 30-line buttons (one on each epaulet and one on inside left facing below the 40-line button)

11、. Battons on left front and inside right front shall be shank wrapped. All front buttons shall have an 18-line reinforcement button sewn underneath except the third button from the top on right front as noted. Each sleeve bottom shall have an 18-line button sewn through the lining only to correspond

12、 with a loop on the removable liner sleeve bottom. The belt anchor shall have an 18-line button sewn through all plies. All front and epaulet buttonholes shall be cut-first, square or tapered-end type, worked-over gimp with ends of gimp pulled through the underside. As indicated by template, five 1-

13、1/4 inch horizontal buttonholes shall be on right front and two on left front (one on lapel and one as anchor buttonhole). Each epaulet shall have one 1-inch horizontal buttonhole. The belt anchor shall have a 3/4-inch cut-first, square or tapered-end buttonhole. Material. The basic material for the

14、 body of the coat shall be water repellant-treated 65% polyester/35% cotton poplin conforming to A-A-50531. The color shall match Blue 3376. 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55LLLA m 9999934 OL5b2b7 502 m A-A-55111A The material

15、for the removable liners outer layers, the sleeve binding, the pass-through pockets, and the edge binding shall be a nylon taffeta, CG Blue 3376, continuous filament 70 denier 1.9 (+0.15) oz./sq. yd. with 100 yarns per inch (min.) in the warp direction and 80 yarns per inch (min.) in the filling dir

16、ection, a minimum breaking strength of 110 lbs. (warp) and 85 lbs. (filling), and a minimum tearing strength of 5.0 lbs. (warp) and 3.5 lbs. (filling). The lining material for the coat shall be a polyester/cotton broadcloth conforming to Type I, Class 3, of A-A-55115, except the colorfastness for we

17、t dry cleaning shall be tested in accordance with AATCC 132. The color shall match Blue 3377. The finished material shall show “good“ fastness to perspiration, dry cleaning, and laundering with a wet/dry crocking rating not lower than 3.0 when tested as specified in AATCC Test Methods 15, 132, 61, a

18、nd 8 respectively. The material for the batting for the body and the sleeves of the removable insulated liner shall be a thin, lightweight, double scrim batting composed of 65% polyolefin/35% polyester quilted in 5 (2 1/2) inch wide vertical channels between two layers of plain weave nylon taffeta.

19、The batting for the body of the liner shall weigh 4.6 oz./sq. yd. (min.)* and shall be 0.4 inch (min.) thick. The batting for the sleeves of the liner shall weigh 3.1 oz./sq. yd. (min.)* and shall be 0.3 inch (min.) thick. (* Weight excludes scrim.) Fusible interlininq (non-woven). The top collar, p

20、ocket welts, facing, sleeve strap (long), epaulets, sleeve hem (cuffs), and belt shall be fused with a non-woven web, made of mechanically entangled fibers thermally bonded together and shall be binder free. The fusible cloth may be composed of 100% polyester fibers or a combination of polyester wit

21、h nylon or rayon fibers with not less than 50% polyester fibers. The fusible adhesive shall be applied to one side of the web in a uniform dot pattern in accordance with commercial practice. The color shall be black and shall show “fair“ colorfastness to dry cleaning (3 cycles). The finished weight

22、of the fusible material shall be a minimum of 1.5 oz./sq. yd. a For optimum results, specific fuse time and settings should be obtained from the manufacturer of the non-woven fusible interlining. The fused sample, consisting of fusible interlining and base fabric, shall show no evidence of bubbling,

23、 delamination, change of color, or strike through both initially and after 5 dry cleanings. It shall show a bond strength of 22 ounces per inch of width initially and 17 ounces per inch of width after 5 dry cleanings. acceptable if the fusible either splits from itself rather than separates from the

24、 outershell material or if it begins to separate from the outershell material higher than the minimum bond strength and splits from itself.) It shall not shrink or (Test results will be considered elongate mre than 2% after 1 dry cleaning. O 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networki

25、ng permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-5511LA 9999974 0156268 449 A-A-55111A Fusible interlininq (wovenl. The fusible interlining for the collar stand shall be 100% cotton, plain weaTe cloth. The cloth .- shall be black and shall show “fair“ colorfastness to dry cleaning (3 cycles). The fusib

26、le adhesive shall be applied to one side of the fabric in a uniform dot pattern in accordance with good commercial practice. The finished fusible shall weigh from 5.5 - 6.5 oz./sq. yd. For optimum results, specific fuse time and settings should be obtained from the manufacturer of the woven fusible

27、interlining. The fused sample, consisting of fusible and basic fabric material, shall show no evidence of bubbling, delamination, color change or strike through after 5 dry cleanings. It shall not shrink or elongate more than 2% after 5 dry cleanings. It shall show a bond strength of 22 ounces per i

28、nch of width initially and 17 ounces per inch after 5 dry cleanings. Seam web. The tape for topstitched seams shall be a polyamide fusible web, 3/8 (5 1/16) inch in width, and shall weigh 1.0 (2 0.2) oz./sq. yd. The color shall be natural and shall show “fair“ colorfastness to dry cleaning (3 cycles

29、). For optimum results, fuse time and settings should be obtained from the manufacturer of the fusible tape. Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching shall be a polyester core thread conforming to type I, sizes 50 or 70 of A-A-50199. Machine tacking shall use size 30. The color shall be shade Bl

30、ue AB CA 66044 and shall show a “good“ colorfastness to wet dry cleaning and light. Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall be cotton, Blue AB CA 66044, conforming to size No. 8, type I or II of A-A-50198 and shall show colorfastness to dry cleaning. Buttons. The buttons shall conform to Ty

31、pe II, Style 20/21, Class K, 18, 30 and 40 line of V-B-871 or equal. The color shall be dark navy, glossy finish with a dull center. The reinforcement buttons shall be 18 line, type II, style 15, shade Black of V-B-871 or equal. Buckles. The belt and sleeve strap buckles shall be rectangular with ro

32、unded corners and a vertical center bar. The buckle shall be of nylon construction with a simulated stitch edge. The color shall be dark Navy, approximating the color of the basic material, with a matte finish. The dimensions shall be in inches as specified below: Belt Sleeve strap Length (inside) W

33、idth (inside) Center bar width 1-3/4 7/8 1/4 1 5/8 1/8 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55LLLA 9999974 0356269 385 A-A-SS111A Frame width Center bar thickness Frame thickness 1/4 1/8 3/16 3/16 1/8 3/32 Tolerance : (+ 1/32) (+ 1/3

34、2) Slide fastener. The slide fastener for the coat and removable liner shall be Type IV, style 1, size L, short tab pull and aluminum chain, conforming to V-F-106. The tape shall approximate shade Blue 3376 and may be 7/16 or 9/16 inch wide. The ends of the slide fastener shall be equidistant from t

35、he bottom edge of the coat. Labels. Both the coat and removable liner shall have a combination identification personal and instruction label. The coat label shall be sewn on all 4 sides, centered on the left facing approximately 10 inches from the finished bottom edge. The label for the liner shall

36、be sewn on all 4 sides, centered on the back 2 (2 1/2) inches below the neck edge. In addition, both coat and removable liner shall have a size label. The combination identification personal and instruction label for the coat shall show fastness to dry cleaning and bear the following inscription: NA

37、ME : CONTRACT NO: DLA 100-00-0-0000 (Example) NAME OF CONTRACTOR: COAT, ALL-WEATHER, WOMANS, w/REMOVABLE LINER CARE INSTRUCTIONS: DRY CLEAN ONLY The combination identification personal and instruction label for the Liner shall be the same as the coat except shall show fastness to laundering and have

38、 the following care instructions: CARE INSTRUCTIONS Machine Wash Warm, Delicate Cycle, No Chlorine Bleach Tumble Dry Low Heat Steam ONLY or Use Cool Iron OR Professionally Dry Clean Tumble Dry Warm and Steam ONLY The size label shall be centered at neck, caught in stitching so it faces wearer, and s

39、hall bear the following inscription: Size: 12R (Example) Stock No: 8410-00-000-0000 (Example) 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55LLLA W 9999974 0356270 OT7 m A-A-55111A NOTE: Abbreviations to be used for the applicable lengths sh

40、all be “S“ for Short, “R“ for Regular, and “L“ for Long. Label/taq. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with the type VIII, class 17 label/tag of DDD-L-20. This label/tag shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and causes no

41、damage to the item. Pressinq. Press collar, fronts, backs, fold of back vent and hems solid, smooth, and flat. Sleeves shall be roll pressed. All wrinkles, creases, or pressing impressions shall be removed. There shall be no excess gloss or scorching. Patterns. The Government shall furnish a single

42、size pattern. The contractor is responsible for grading patterns for additional sizes. The pattern generally provides for a seam allowance of 1/2 inch for outer shell joining seams 1/4 inch for other stitched seams. The Government patterns shall be used to make the contractors working patterns. The

43、Government patterns shall not be altered in any way. The working patterns may be modified to accommodate automation. However, if the working patterns are modified, the design and measurements must be maintained as intended by Government patterns. Measurements. The finished coats shall conform to the

44、 following measurements, which are expressed in inches: Size Chest Sleeve Center Back Liner Back Belt Inseam Length Length Length (A) (*I (C) (D) (E) 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 40 41 42 43-1/2 45 46-1/2 48 50 52 40 41 42 43-1/2 45 46-1/2 48 50 52 SHORT 16 41-1/2 16 42 16 42-1/

45、2 16 43 16 43-1/2 16 44 16 44-1/2 16 45 16 45-1/2 REGULAR 17 44-1/2 17 45 17 45-1/2 17 46 17 46-1/2 17 47 17 47-1/2 17 48 17 48-1/2 30-1/2 42 31 43 31-1/2 44 32 45-1/2 32-1/2 47 33 48-1/2 33-1/2 60 34 61-1/2 34-1/2 63 33-1,s 42 34 43 34-1/2 44 35 45-1/2 35-1/2 47 36 48-1/2 36-1/2 60 37 61-1/2 37-1/2

46、 63 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55111A 9999974 O15b271 T33 A-A-55111A Chest Sleeve Center Back Liner Back Belt Inseam Length Length Length Size (A) (BI (Cl (D) (E) 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 40 41 42 43-1/2 45 46-1/2 48 50 52

47、LONG 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 48-1/2 48-3/4 49 49-1/4 49-1/2 49-3/4 50 50-1/4 50-1/2 37-1/2 42 37-3/4 43 38 44 38-1/4 45-1/2 38-1/2 47 38-3/4 48-1/2 39 60 39-1/4 61-1/2 39-1/2 63 Tolerance (- + 3/4) (- + 1/2) (- + 1/2) (.- + 1/2) (t 3/81 NOTE: Refer to Figure 1 for Al B, CI and E measurements and

48、Figure 2 for D measurements. All measurements shall be taken with coat fully buttoned, placed smooth and flat. (A) Chest - Twice the measurement shall be taken across front at base of armholes from folded edge to folded edge. (B) Sleeve Inseam - Measurement shall be taken along sleeve inseam from ba

49、se of armhole to bottom of sleeve. 0 (C) Center Back Length - Measurement shall be taken from the neckline seam to bottom edge of coat. (D) Liner Back Length - Measurement shall be taken from the top edge of neckline to bottom edge of liner. (E) Belt Length - With belt flat, measure from center of buckle to pointed end of belt. Workmanship. The finished coats and liners shall be thoroughly cleaned, all loose threads, lint, and foreign matter removed. The liner