DLA A-A-55184-1993 BERET MAN-S WOOL《男式羊毛贝雷帽》.pdf

1、I INCH-POUND I A-A-55 18 4 i0 March 1993 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION BERET, MANS, WOOL The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this Commercial Item Description in preference to MIL-B-43172. Abstract. The berets are intended for wear by designated military personnel of the Depar

2、tment of Defense. Classification. The berets shall be one type in the following classes and sizes: Class Class Class Class Class Class Class Class Class 1 - Rifle Green (Army) 2 - Blue (Air Force) 3 - Maroon (Air Force) 4 - Scarlet (Air Force) 5 - Medium Blue (Air Force) 6 - Black (Army and Air Forc

3、e) 7 - Maroon (Army) 8 - Gray (Air Force) 9 - White (Air Force) Schedule of sizes 6-3/8 6-1/2 6-5/8 6-3/4 6-7/8 7 7-1/8 7-1/4 7-3/8 7-1/2 7-5/8 7-3/4 7-7/8 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addr

4、essed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FSSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19101-8419, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIB

5、UTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-5518 4 m 74 OL42L41i 858 m A-A-55104 Salient Characteristics. The beret shall consists of a knitted wool outershell, lined

6、with polyester and bound with leather or nylon tape. . A rayon braid, threaded through the binding, is tied in a bow at the back. The braid shall be cut to fit the head size plus 10 inches (2 1/4 inch) to allow for tying. The braid shall be free to move through the binding to allow for adjustment an

7、d the ends of the braid shall extend through the opening at center back. The beret shall have a badge stay sewn on the inside of the left front with one end 1 inch (2 1/4 inch) to the right of the center front and the bottom edge (at center of stay) 3/4 to 7/8 inch from the bottom of the lining. The

8、 beret shall have a blocked shell. The binding shall finish smooth and even in width. The ends of the binding shall be abutted at center back, 1/4 inch off center tolerance, of beret. sewn grain side up. Except for color, all classes of the beret are the same. The color shall be Rifle Green 297 for

9、class 1 berets, Blue 1561 for class 2, Maroon 1560 for class 3, Scarlet 1591 for class 4, Medium Blue 1592 for class 5, Black 1593 for class 6, Maroon 453 for class 7, Gray 1609 for class 8, and White 1610 for class 9. Figure I is furnished solely for guidance and information. the requirements speci

10、fied in this document. felt cushion sewn on the inside bottom raw edge of the The binding shall be The construction shall conform in all respects to Material. The shell shall be knit from singles yarn of 64s grade (average fiber diameter, 20.60 to 22.04 microns with a 5.19 maximum standard deviation

11、), or finer, blended wool, on a flat or circular reciprocating beret machine with 9 or 10 needles per inch. based on the dry weight of the specimen when tested in accordance with Table I. After fulling and dyeing, the shell shall be blocked to size, shaped, and sheared to a smooth finish. The shell

12、shall be mothproofed. The color shall match the standard sample when viewed under filtered tungsten lamps that approximate artifical daylight and that have a corrleated color temperture of 7500 2 200 K, with illumination of 100 2 20 foot cnadles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample unde

13、r incandescent lamplight at 2300 200 K. The material for the lining and crown interlining shall be polyester and cotton or polyester and rayon. The cushion strip shall be pressed wool felt. shall be burlap. As an alternate, the badge stay shall be medium density, water resistant fiberboard produced

14、from a highly purified alpha-cellulose vegetable fiber, impregnated with a minimum 32 percent of compounded neoprene. The thickness of the fiberboard shall be 0.060 2 0.003 inch. The color of the finished badge stay shall be natural (tan). not curl, nor show any sign of separation. The badge stay sh

15、all not shrink more than 1.0 percent in any direction. The leather for the binding shall be full grain, vegetable tanned sheepskin. The leather shall be drum dyed Black 111 and the thickness shall be 2.0 to 2.5 ounces. (DOD Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads) and shall show lgood“ colorfastness

16、to light, perspiration, and wet drycleaning. The shell shall contain not less than 95 percent wool The badge stay The badge stay shall 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55184 9999974 OL42L42 794 = A-A-5 5 18 4 As an alternates the

17、 binding may be nylon tape dyed black, tape- plain weave, non-critical use (shuttle or shuttleless loom, nylon 6 or nylon 6,6), one inch width (2 1/32 inch) or polymer coated fabric, black in color and one inch in width. The drawcord shall be 5/16 inch wide braid having 64 ends of 300 denier continu

18、ous filament rayon yarn, when tested in accordance with the component testing section. The color shall be black and shall show “good“ fastness component testing section. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be cotton-covered polyester thread, ticket No. 50, 2 ply and 70, 2 ply or as an alt

19、ernate, cotton thread, ticket Nos. 30 or 36. The thread shall be dyed Black AA, C.A. 66043. t to wet dry-cleaning when tested in accordance with the Component testinq. The finished treated shell shall conform to the following requirements: Weight, minimum - 16.5 ounces per square yard Bursting stren

20、gth, minimum - 45 pounds The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any of the test requirements specified. The lot size expression and the sample size shall be in accordance with the following: Component Lot size expressed as Sample unit for testinq Shell Braid Badge sta

21、y Shells Pounds Yards 12 shells 3 square feet 1/4 yard The polymer coated fabric shall have the following requirements when tested as specified in Table I: Composition - Urethane 39 percent 2 5 percent Polyester 23 percent 5 2 percent Cotton 38 percent 5 2 percent Coating: Flexible polyurethane Tota

22、l weight: 11.0 2 0.5 oz./sq. yd. Thickness: 0.30 - .O36 Breaking strength: min. 60 lb. in both machine and cross machine directions The number of sample units to be tested shall be determined as follows: Lot size Sample size 800 or less 2 801 up to and including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5 3 Provided

23、 by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-5528Li Shell Thread Badge stay: fiberboard 2/ (when applicable) Alphacellulose Braid Polymer coated fabric binding A-A-55184 Table I. Campo nent Tests . Characteristic Wool grade Wool content Sheared finish

24、 Colorfastness: - Light - Perspiration - Wet drycleaning - Crocking Weight Bursting strength Colorfastness: - Light - Perspiration - Wet drycleaning Material identification Water resistance Thickness Color Shrinkage Material identification Denier of yarn Number of ends Colorfastness to wet dry- clea

25、ning Width Material identification Weight oz./sq. yd. Thickness Breaking strength Test method ASTM D 3991 L/ 2101 - i/ 5660 5680 5622 5651 5041 5120 5660 5680 5622 - 4/ 5030 Visual 5/ 5550 61- 5622 - i/ 5041 5030 5100 - i/ Unless otherwise specified, certificate of compliance shall be submitted and

26、will be acceptable for the stated requirement. - 2/ Samples of badge stay shall be conditioned for 24 hours at a relative humidity of 50 2 3 percent and a temperature of 70 2 2OF prior to testing. - 3/ A certificate of compliance shall be submitted to the contracting officer or his designated repres

27、entative that the composition and the amount of impregnation are as specified. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55184 9999974 0142144 5b7 A-A-5 5 184 - 4/ Water resistance - A drop of distilled water shall be placed on the surfac

28、e of the badge stay board and shall not be completely absorbed in 1 hour. Three determinations shall be made per sample unit and the results reported as “pass“ or “fail“. * - 5/ For this examination, one determination shall be made per sample unit and the results reported as pass“ or “fail“. - 6/ Th

29、e test procedure shall be modified to be adaptable for the type of material tested. The three test specimens shall be cut 4 inches by 8 inches and the average result reported as qpass“ or “fail“. Label. Each beret shall have a combination size, identification, and garment care instruction indicating

30、 “DRY CLEAN CLEANING“ label, marking, direct printing, stamping, or stenciling, except the size for all characters shall be 1/8 inch. The labels shall show colorfastness to wet dry-cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the labels shall be clearly

31、 legible and shall show “good“ colorfastness to wet dry cleaning (Method 5622 of FED-STD-191). Patterns. The government shall furnish a single size pattern. The contractor is responsible for grading patterns for additional sizes. The pattern generally provides for a seam allowance of 1/4 inch for jo

32、ining seams. lieu of the government furnished pattern provided they conform to the cited design and finished measurements. Commercial patterns may be used in Sizes and Measurements. The finished beret shall conform to the measurements below. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networki

33、ng permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55 18 4 9999974 Oit42145 4T3 A-A-55 184 kret size 6-3/8 6-1/2 6-5/8 6-3/4 6-7/8 7 7-1/8 7-1/4 7-3/8 7-1/2 7-5/8 7-3/4 7-7/8 rolerance Table II. Finished measurements lin inchesl. nside beret :ircumf . c/ 20-1/8 20-1/2 20-7/8 21-1/4 21-5/8 22 22-3/8 22-3/

34、4 23-1/8 23-1/2 23-7/8 24-1/4 24-5/8 + 3/16 :rown .ength L/ 9-7/8 10 10-1/8 10-1/4 10-3/8 10-1/2 10-5/8 10-3/4 10-7/8 11 11-1/8 11-1/4 11-3/8 - + 5/16 9-3/8 9-1/2 9-5/8 9-3/4 9-7/8 10 10-1/8 10-1/4 10-3/8 10-1/2 10-5/8 10-3/4 10-7/8 - + 3/16 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 + 3/16 back uarter y 2-1/2 2-1/2

35、 2-1/2 2-1/2 2-1/2 2-1/2 2-1/2 2-1/2 2-1/2 2-1/2 2-112 2-1/2 2-1/2 - + 3/16 Light and .eft quarter y 2-3/4 2-3/4 2-3/4 2-3/4 2-3/4 2-3/4 2-3/4 2-3/4 2-3/4 2-3/4 2-3/4 2-3/4 2-314 - + 3/16 Laying the beret flat on the table, head opening up, measure inside beret circumference around bottom edge of bi

36、nding on the finished beret. Laying the beret flat on the table, head opening down, measure from front (folded edge) to back (folded edge) as indicated by “A“ in figure 1. Laying the beret flat on the table, head opening down, measure from side (folded edge) to side (folded edge) as indicated by “B“

37、 in figure 1. Laying the beret flat on the table, head opening up, measure the front quarter from bottom (folded edge) of binding .to the outside (folded edge) of crown as indicated be “C“ in figure 1. Laying the beret flat on the table, head opening up, measure the back quarter from bottom (folded

38、edge) of binding to the outside (folded edge) of crown as indicated by “D“ in figure 1. Laying the beret flat on the table, head opening up, r measure the right and left quarters from bottom (folded edge) of binding to the outside (folded edge) of crown as indicated by “E“ in figure 1. 8 6 Provided

39、by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55184 9999974 O14214b 33T m A-A-551 84 Workmanship. After completion, the finished beret shall be thoroughly cleaned, and all loose thread, lint, and foreign matter removed. Product Demonstration Model. When

40、 required, offerers shall submit samples of their intended production. Demonstration Model will consist of units independently developed. evaluated by the government. Evaluation criteria and basis for award are contained in the solicitation. Product Demonstration Models will be retained by the gover

41、nment. One (1) Product Demonstration Model approved by DPSC under the resultant contract will serve as a manufacturing standard for the corresponding production items delivered under this contract. Offerers are advised that the Product Demonstration Model does not relieve the successful offerer of h

42、is responsibility to perform in accordance with the Commercial Item Description specified above. The Product Product Demonstration Models will be analyzed and Reaulatorv Requirements. use recovered materials in accordance with Public Law 94-580 to the maximum extent practicable. Qualitv Assurance Th

43、e offeror/contractor is encouraged to Certification. offered meets the salient characteristics of this description and that the product conforms to the producers own drawings, specifications, standards and quality assurance practices. The government reserves the right to require proof of such confor

44、mance prior to the first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for, under the provisions of the contract. Reliance on contractor QA systems shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the government for acceptance compl

45、y with all requirements of the contract. The contractor shall certify that the product Examination. Beret lots shall be inspected in accordance with “Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes“, ANSI/ASQC 21.4, published by the American Society for Quality Control. Visual Examinatio

46、n. The beret shall be examined for the defects listed below. berets. The sample unit is one beret. The inspection level shall be II and the acceptable quality level (AQL), expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be 1.0. The lot size shall be expressed in units of Defects. The beret sh

47、all be examined for the following defects: any hole, cut, tear, color not as specified; any spot or stain (outside); thread ends not removed; label missing, incorrect, or illegible; measurement of item not as specified. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without l

48、icense from IHS-,-,-A-A-55 38 4 W 9999974 0342347 276 A-A-5 5 184 I Dimensional Examination. The finished beret shall conform to the dimensions specified. Any dimension that is not within the established tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The sample unit shall be one beret. The inspection le

49、vel shall be S-3 and the AQL, expressed in terms of defects.per hundred units, shall be 2.5. Packacrincr Examination. The fully packaged shipping containers shall be examined in accordance with defects listed below. The lot size shall be the number of shipping containers in the inspection lot. The inspection level shall be S-2 and AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be 2.5. Examination Marking (Exter