DLA A-A-55185-1993 TROUSERS MEN-S (WHITE)《(白色)男式裤子》.pdf

1、A-A-55185 m 9999974 0142371 357 m A-A-55 185 10 March 1993 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION TROUSERS, MENS (WHITE) / The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this Commercial Item Description in preference to MIL-T-2423. Abstract. This document covers the requirements for white polyes

2、ter/cotton bell bottom trousers. The trousers are intended for use as part of the summer white uniform worn by enlisted male personnel of the Navy. Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to

3、: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FSSC, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19101-8419, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. I msc N/A DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT

4、A. FSC 8405 Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-5535 m 9999974 0342372 293 A-A-551 85 SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS General Description. The trousers shall be of single needle construc

5、tion with a sewn on waistband, belt loops, hook and eye closure, a left over right front fly with slide fastener, two straight side seam pockets, unfinished bell bottoms and double welt back hip pockets with button and buttonhole on left hip pocket (reference figure 1). The seat seam shall be stitch

6、ed with a double needle seat seamer, with an outlet in the back seat seam. All exposed edges shall have overedge stitching. The waistband shall be made of basic material with an interlining and lining. The finished width shall be 1-3/4 (2 1/8) inches with a topstitch 1/16 inch from waist seam throug

7、h lining. The right front fly shall be lined from the top of the waistband to approximately 1/2 inch beyond inseam. The trouser shall have 7 belt loops for sizes up to and including 37, 8 loops for size 38 and above. The belt loops shall be caught in the waistband seam (with the exception of the cen

8、ter back loop), bartacked 1/4 inch below the waistband seam and 1/8 (- + 1/16) from top edge of waistband. The finished belt loop shall be 5/16 to 3/8 inches wide, and 1-3/4 (2 1/8) inches long. The placement of the belt loops shall be as follows: a loop in the center of the right and left fronts, a

9、ccording to notches on patterns, a loop adjacent to each side seam on back, a loop centered on the right and left backs, a loop centered on back seat seam, a loop positioned on right front (for sizes 38 and above) 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 inches from edge of left fly when closed. The side seam pockets shall b

10、e bartacked above and below the opening, which shall measure 5-3/4 to 6-1/4 inches. The front of pocket opening shall be topstitched 3/16 to 1/4 inch from edge. Side pocket facing and bearer pieces shall be of basic fabric. The double welt back hip pocket shall finish 5-1/4 (+ 1/8) inches wide, with

11、 a 1/8 to 3/16 inch welt edge. The pocket shall finish 5-3/4 (2 1/4) inches deep, with the label centered and stitched on four sides to pocket, facing the wearer. The hip pocket on wearers left shall have a buttonhole of the eyelet end, taper bar type, with ends tacked, worked over gimp, with a cut

12、length of 5/8 to 3/4 inch. The buttonhole shall be vertical, in the center of the pocket with the inside edge of eyelet 3/16 to 5/16 inch below the joining seam of welt edge. 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55185 m 9999974 01423

13、73 12T = A-A-55 185 All bartacks shall be made by machine, and shall finish 3/8 to 1/2 inch long. The back hip pockets shall have vertical bartacks at both ends. The base of the fly opening shall have a bartack at the junction of the crotch seam and fly which shall extend 1/16 to 1/8 inch beyond the

14、 crotch seam. The finished trousers shall be pressed at the top; the legs pressed and creased in the center with the seams matching at the bottoms and knees. The inseam in the crotch may be slightly back of the outside seam. Basic Material. The basic material for the trousers shall be a 50% polyeste

15、r/50% combed cotton 2/1 right hand twill consisting of 2 ply warp yarn and singles filling yarn, shade white 3053. The polyester yarn shall be semi dull, with a 2.5 maximum denier, and staples approximately 1-1/2 inches in length. The cloth shall be preshrunk, bleached and treated with a crease resi

16、stant finish. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in Table I when tested as specified. TABLE I - BASIC MATERIAL REQUIREMENTS Characteristic Fiber identification Weight Yarns per inch Breaking strength Colorfastness to light Colorfastness to laundering Dimensional s tabi li

17、ty Test Method ASTM Method D3776-85 Option C ASTM Method D3775-85 ASTM Method D5034-90 AATCC 16-1990 Option A AATCC 61-1989 test 3A AATCC 96-1988 Washing method Vc Drying method D ASTM Method D2165-90 Requirement (Minimum) As stated above 6.8 oz./sq. yd. 102 ends/inch 50 picks/inch 170 lbs. warp 85

18、lbs. filling I Good I 2/ overedging shall use Ticket No. 70, 2 ply; button sewing shall use Ticket No. 50, 2 ply. As an alternate, white cotton machine thread conforming to type I of A-A-52094 may be used. Seaming shall use Ticket No. 40 or 50, 3 ply; overedging shall use Ticket No. 70, 2 ply; butto

19、n sewing shall use Ticket No. 24, 4 Ply- 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55 185 W 9999974 OL4237b 939 tD A-A-5 5 18 5 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the hip pocket buttonhole shall be 100% cotton, bleached white, conforming to t

20、ype I or II, Ticket No. 8 of A-A-50198. Button. The button for the left hip pocket shall be melamine plastic, shade white BA, Cable No. 62031, 22 line, flat, with 4 sewing holes. Slide Fastener. The slide fastener for closing the front fly shall be non-separating, non-reversible, with a cam lock sli

21、der, short tab pull and bottom stop. The size shall be light special, and the tape shall be cotton or a polyester/cotton blend, approximating the shade of the basic material. The chain, slider and bottom stop shall be made of brass, except for semi-automatic pin lock cover and spring, which shall be

22、 stainless steel. Hook and Eve. The hook and eye for the trouser waistband shall be North and Judd (Hook Flex H-49 and E-50); Universal Fastener (Elite #3, #7, and #8 hook with #8 eye or #85 eye); Akim Co. (Junior Series - type JB, Slim-Slak with MB eye and Slik-Slak); Stimpson (P-536, D-4086, D-445

23、7, D-4228) or equal. The finish shall be nickel plate, and the base metal shall be steel. Sizes and Lenqths. The trousers shall be provided in the following sizes and lengths: Sizes: 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48 and 50 Lenqths: Short, Regular, Long and Extra

24、 Long NOTE: The lengths (Short, Regular, Long, and X-Long) may be abbreviated as S, R, L and XL. Label. Each pair of trousers shall have a white, non-woven, commercial type label which shall be affixed to the center of the right hip pocketing, facing the wearer. The inscription shall show fastness t

25、o laundering and shall contain the following information: NAME : SERVICE NO.: SIZE: NATIONAL STOCK NUMBER: FIBER CONTENT: 50% polyester/50% cotton CONTRACT NO: NAME OF CO“RACTOR/FACTURER O e e 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-LAUNDER

26、ING INSTRUCTION Machine Wash - Hot Water DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH Tumble Dry - Medium Heat, Remove Promptly or USE NAVEDTR 414-01-45-81 - Formula II Note: Abbreviations for applicable lengths may be used Removable Size Ticket. Each trouser shall have a commercial type size ticket attached tc the o

27、utside of the waistband above the left back pocket. The ticket shall be approximately 3 inches long and 1 inch high, made of a suitable plain white cardboard. The trouser size shall be printed or stamped on the upper left hand corner in black or blue ink. The lettering for the size shall be 1/4 inch

28、 in height. Abbreviations for lengths shall be allowed. (EXAMPLE - 34R). Patterns. The government shall furnish a single size pattern. The contractor is responsible for grading patterns for additional sizes. The pattern provides for a seam allowance of 1/2 inch for joining the seat seam, inseams and

29、 outseams, 7/8 inch outlet at top of seat seam, and 3/8 inch for all other seams. The government patterns shall be used to make the contractorss working patterns. The government patterns shall not be altered in any way. The working patterns may be modified to accommodate automation; however, if the

30、working patterns are modified the design and measurements must be maintained as intended by government patterns. Sizes and Measurements. The finished trousers shall conform to the measurements listed in Table IV. All measurements and tolerances are expressed in inches. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleN

31、o reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-551i85 9999974 0342378 701 A-A-55 185 TABLE IV - SIZES AND MEASUREMENTS inseam - Unhemmed 3/ Size Waist L/ Seat 2/ S R - L XL 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 Tol, 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 4

32、0 42 44 46 48 50 - +1/2 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 51 52 54 - +1 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 35 31 31 - +3/4 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 - +3/4 35-1/2 35-1/2 35-1/2 35-1/2 35-1/2 35-1/2 35-1/2 35-1/2 35-1/2 35-1/2 35-1/2 35-1/2 35

33、-1/2 35-1/2 35-1/2 35-1/2 35-1/2 35-1/2 35-1/2 - +3/4 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 - +3/4 Knee A/ Leg 5/ Bottom 19-3/4 20-1/4 20-1/4 20-3/4 20-3/4 20-3/4 21-1/4 21-1/4 21-3/4 21-3/4 22 22-1/4 22-1

34、/2 23 23 23-1/2 23-1/2 24 24 - +1/2 21-1/4 21-3/4 21-3/4 22-1/4 22-1/4 22-1/4 22-3/4 22-3/4 23-1/4 23-1/4 23-1/2 23-3/4 24-1/2 24-1/2 24 25 25 25-1/2 25-1/2 * - Note: Measurements for waist and seat shall be taken with slide fastener and waistband closed. All measurements shall be taken with trouser

35、s laid out smooth and flat. - i/ Waist: - 2/ Seat: - 3/ Inseam: - 41 Knee: Double the measurement across the top edge of waistband from folded edge to folded edge. edge one inch above fly bartack. unfinished bottom of legs. edge across the width of trouser leg. measurements shall be the following di

36、stance from bottom of trousers: Double the measurement taken from folded edge to folded Measurement taken along inseam from crotch seam to Double the measurement taken from folded edge to folded Location of knee Short - 16-3/4 inches Long - 20 inches Regular - 18 inches X-Long - 22-1/4 inches - 5/ B

37、ottom: Double the measurement taken from folded edge to folded edge across unfinished bottom of leg. 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-Workmanship. After completion, the finished trousers shall be thoroughly cleaned, and all loose thr

38、ead, lint, and foreign matter removed. Product Demonstration Model. When required, offerers shall submit samples of their intended production. The Product Demonstration Model will consist of units independently developed. Product Demonstration Models will be analyzed and evaluated by the government.

39、 Evaluation criteria and basis for award are contained in the solicitation. Product Demonstration Models will be retained by the government. One (1) Product Demonstration Model approved by DPSC under the resultant contract will serve as a manufacturing standard for the corresponding production items

40、 delivered under this contract. Offerers are advised that the Product Demonstration Model does not relieve the successful offerer of his responsibility to perform in accordance with the Commercial Item Description specified above. Reuulatory Requirements. The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use

41、recovered material in accordance with Public Law 94-580 to the maximum extent practicable. QUALITY ASSURANCE Certification. The contractor shall certify that the product of fered meets the salient characteristics of this description and that the product conforms to the producers om drawings, specifi

42、cations, standards and quality assurance practices. The government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to the first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for, under the provisions of the contract. Reliance on contractor QA systems shall not relieve the contra

43、ctor of the responsibility of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Examination. Trouser lots shall be inspected in accordance with “Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes“, ANSI/ASQC 21.4,

44、 published by the American Society for Quality Control. Visual Examination. The trousers shall be examined for the defects listed below. The lot size shall be expressed in units of trousers. The sample unit is one trouser. The inspection level shall be III and the acceptable quality level (AQL), exp

45、ressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be 0.65. Defects. The trousers shall be examined for the defects listed in Table V. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55185 74 0142380 3bT A-A-55 18 5 TABLE V - END ITEM VISUAL DEF

46、ECTS Examination Material and workmanship Shade Variations Cleanness Label Defect Component part full, tight, or twisted Hole, cut, tear, streak, color not as specified, misweave Permanent fold, pleat, or crease Measurement not as specified, an omitted part Seam; puckered, distorted, pleated, irregu

47、lar or open, loose or tight stitch tension, broken or missing thread or stitch, needle chew Any twisted or caught part of trouser in any unrelated row of stitching Pressing omitted or not as specified Twill line not consistent throughout Button or hook and eye missing or broken, or positioned so as

48、to cause a bulge or misaligned waistband Shaded part, off shade, wrong shade, or shade variation Thread color not as specified Spot, stain, thread ends not trimmed Rancid odor Omitted, incorrect, illegible or misplaced Dimensional Examination. The finished trousers shall conform to the dimensions sp

49、ecified. Any dimension that is not within the established tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The sample unit shall be one trouser; the inspection level shall be S-3 and the AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be 2.5. 10 Y e e e Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55185 9999974 0142381 2Tb A-A-55 185 Packaqinq Examinati