DLA A-A-55199-1993 NECKTIE《领带》.pdf

1、* ,- A-A-55199 m 9999979 03i1i1482 9T8 m A-A-55 19 9 May 20, 1993 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION NECKTIE The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this Commercial Item Description in preference to MIL-N-41804. Abstract. This Commercial Item Description covers the requirements for po

2、lyester/wool neckties intended for wear by male military personnel of the Department of Defense. Classification. The neckties shall be one type in the following classes: Class 3 - Khaki 2122 (Marine Corps) Class 4 - Blue 1083 (Air Force and Coast Guard) Class 5 - Black 439 (Army and Navy) Salient Ch

3、aracteristics. The necktie shall be a two-fold, four- in-hand design, with pointed ends, machine sewn center seam, interlinings, a retainer loop and ends faced with basic material (see Figure 1). Neckties may be cut in 2 pieces, with pieces matching each other. The piecing shall be not less than 17

4、inches nor more than 28 inches from the small end of the tie. - Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FS

5、SD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19101-8419, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8440 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. O Provided by IHS

6、Not for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55199 W 9999974 0344483 834 W A-A-5 5 19 9 The retainer loop shall be fused at the ends prior to assembly, and shall finish on the underside of necktie, centered horizontally with a L 1/8 inch tolerance and 8 2 1/

7、4 inches from bottom point of wide end of necktie. The retainer loop shall have sufficient fullness to accommodate the narrow end of the necktie with no twists or puckers. The identification label shall be positioned to wide end of interlining, 1/4 to 3/8 inch from bottom edge, and stitched on all f

8、our sides. The wide end of the interlining shall extend from 3-1/2 to 4 inches from finished point of wide end of necktie. The 3/4 inch wide strip of interlining shall be centered on center seam of necktie, and 1-3/8 inches from bottom of wide end of interlining. The interlinings shall be free for a

9、 distance of 2 to 2-1/2 inches at the wide end of necktie. The finished necktie shall be pressed, with the center seam centered, and without any seam impression or gloss. Material. The basic material for the neckties shall be polyester and wool tropical blend cloth conforming to the following requir

10、ements: Characteristic Requirement Test Method Class 3 Weave plain visual 2/ Weight (oz./linear yd., ASTM D 3776 56 inches basis min.) 6.5 Yarns per inch (min.) 65 warp, 59 filling ASTM D 3775 Breaking strength (lbs. )(min.) 100 warp, 80 filling ASTM D 5034 Shrinkage (%)(max.) 2.5 warp, 2.5 filling

11、AATCC 99 Fiber content 75% $r 5% polyester, 25% 5% wool - i/ Classes 4 and 5 Weave Weight (oz./linear yd., 56 inches basis min.) Yarns per inch (min.) Breaking strength (lbs.)(min.) Shrinkage (%)(max.) Fiber content plain visual 2/ 7.5 ASTM D 3776 55 warp, 48 filling ASTM D 3775 70 warp, 65 filling

12、ASTM D 5034 4.0 warp, 3.0 filling AATCC 99 55% 2 5% polyester, 40% wool - i/ 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-Characteristic O Alternate A-A-55199 m 9999974 0344484 770 m A-A-55 199 Weave Weight (oz./linear yd., 60 inches basis min.)

13、 Yarns per inch (min.) Breaking strength (lbs.)(min.) Shrinkage (%)(max.) Fiber content Requirement Test Method plain visual 2/ 8.5 ASTM D 3776 56 warp, 46 filling ASTM D 3775 120 warp, 110 filling ASTM D 5034 2 warp, 2 filling AATCC 99 68% polyester, 25% acrylic, 7% mohair - i/ - i/ A certificate o

14、f compliance shall be submitted and will be acceptable for the stated requirements. - 2/ One determination shall be made of each sample unit and the results reported as “Pass“ or “Fail“. Color. The color of the neckties shall be Khaki 2122 for Class 3, Blue 1083 for Class 4, and Black 439 for Class

15、5 neckties. The color of the basic material shall match the standard sample when viewed under a filtered tungsten lamp that approximates artificial daylight, has a correlated color temperature of 7500 2 200 Kelvin, with illumination of 100 2 20 foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard

16、 sample under incandescent lamplight at 2800 2 200 Kelvin. The finished cloth shall meet the following characteristics: Characteristic Requirement Test Method Colorfastness to: Light Laundering Perspiration Crocking Wet Dryc leaning AATCC 16 AATCC 61 AATCC 15 AATCC 8 AATCC 132 Interlininq. The inter

17、lining for the neckties shall be a crease resistant, natural color, polyester/acrylic/wool cloth, and shall conform to the following requirements: 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-Characteristic A-A-55199 9999974 01444B5 b07 A-A-55 1

18、9 9 Weave Weight Yarns per inch (min.) Crease resistant Fiber content plain - 2/ 6.0 ounces (min.) per square yard ASTM D 3776 warp 26, filling 26 ASTM D 3775 warp and filling 10% (min.) wool, 50% - + 5% polyester, with remaining percentage 78% (min.) - 3/ acrylic - i/ Fiber content (alternate) 70%

19、2 5% polyester, 5% (min.) wool, remaining percentage acrylic - i/ - i/ A certificate of compliance shall be submitted and will be acceptable for the stated requirements. - 2/ One determination shall be made on each sample unit and the results reported as “Pass“ or “Fail“. - 3/ Federal Test Standard

20、191 Test Method 5212. Thread. The thread for all classes of neckties shall be cotton, Ticket No. A, Tex 50, 3 ply conforming to type III of A-A-52094. As an alternate, cotton-covered polyester thread, Ticket No. 50, Tex 36-45, 2 ply, conforming to type I of A-A-50199 may be used. If automatic tie fo

21、lding and sewing machine is used, the thread used shall be 100% polyester with continuous multifilament, twisted soft multiple cord, normal elongation, and a non-wicking finish, Tex 70, 3 ply, with a breaking strength of 8.0 lbs., when tested as specified in Test Method ASTM D-1578 (5 determinations

22、 shall be made per sample). The polyester thread shall show a minimum of Class 4 color fastness to wet-dry cleaning when tested as specified in Test Method AATCC 132. The color of the thread for the neckties shall be Khaki P-1 (C. A. 66019) for class 3, Blue M (C. A. 66027) for class 4, and Black AA

23、 (C. A. 66043) for class 5. Requirement Test Method TaDe. The tape for the retainer loop shall be a 3/4 (2 1/32) inch wide plain weave of bright, high tenacity, light and heat resistant polyamide nylon yarn. The weight shall be 0.20 oz./linear yd. when tested as specified in Test Method ASTM D-3776,

24、 Option C, and the thickness shall be .O15 - .O25 inch when tested as specified in Test Method ASTM D-1777. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55199 W 9999974 0344486 543 A-A-5 51 9 9 Label/markinq. Each necktie shall have a combin

25、ation identification and size label for neckwear. The marking medium may be either direct printing, stamping, or stenciling, except size shall not apply. cleaning in accordance with AATCC Test Method 132. each unit shall be as specified by the procuring activity. Patterns. The government shall furni

26、sh a pattern. The pattern generally provides for a 1/4 inch seam allowance for points and a 3/8 inch seam allowance for the center seam. The government patterns shall not be altered in any way. The working patterns may be modified to accommodate automation; however, if the working patterns are modif

27、ied, the design and measurements must be maintained as intended by government patterns. Commercial patterns may be used in lieu of the government furnished pattern provided they conform to the cited design and finished measurements. The label shall show colorfastness to dry Barcoding of Measurements

28、. The finished neckties shall conform to the measurements cited in Figure 1. Workmanship. of product established by this document. The occurrence of defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality levels. The finished neckties shall conform to the quality Product Demonstration Model. When

29、 required, of ferers shall submit samples of their intended production. The Product Demonstration Model will consist of units independently developed. Product Demonstration Models will be analyzed and evaluated by the government. Evaluation criteria and basis for award are contained in the solicitat

30、ion. Product Demonstration Models will be retained by the government. One (1) Product Demonstration Model approved by DPSC under the resultant contract will serve as a manufacturing standard for the corresponding production items delivered under this contract. Offerers are advised that the Product D

31、emonstration Model does not relieve the successful offerer of his responsibility to perform in accordance with the Commercial Item Description specified above. Requlatorv Requirements. use recovered materials in accordance with Public Law 94-580 to the maximum extent practicable. The offeror/contrac

32、tor is encouraged to 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55179 W 7797774 CIL44987 4T W A-A-5 5 19 9 Quality Assurance Certification. The contractor shall certify that the product offered meets the salient characteristics of this des

33、cription and that the product conforms to the producers own drawings, specifications, standards and quality assurance practices. The government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to the first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for, under the provisions of

34、 the contract. Reliance on contractor quality assurance systems shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Examination. Necktie lots shall be inspected in ac

35、cordance with “Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes“, ANSI/ASQC 21.4, published by the American Society for Quality Control. Visual Examination. The necktie shall be examined for the defects listed below. The lot size shall be expressed in units of neckties. The sample unit is

36、 one necktie. The inspection level shall be II and the acceptable quality level (AQL), expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be 0.65. Defects. The necktie shall be examined for the following defects: any hole, cut, tear, needle chew or weakening defect in the material; color not as

37、specified; any spot or stain (outside); thread ends not removed: tape having any holes, tears, cuts, or frayed edges; interlining and interlining strip missing, pleated, puckered, or not laying flat; retainer loop missing, twisted or puckered; pointed ends poorly shaped, or twisted, affecting appear

38、ance; not cut or fabricated in accordance with product demonstration model; label missing, incorrect, or illegible; measurement of item not as specified; and any variance not otherwise classified herein but at a variance with the product demonstration model. Dimensional Examination. The finished nec

39、ktie shall conform to the dimensions specified. Any dimension that is not within the established tolerance shall be classified as a defect. The sample unit shall be one necktie; the inspection level shall be S-3, and the AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be 1.5. Packaqinq E

40、xamination. shall be examined in accordance with defects listed below. The lot size shall be the number of shipping containers in the inspection lot. The inspection level shall be S-2 and AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be 1.0. The fully packaged shipping containers 6 Pro

41、vided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55199 9999974 0144488 31b A-A- 5 5 19 9 EXAMINE DEFECT Marking Omitted; incorrect; illegible; (exterior and interior) of improper size, location, or method of application Ma te ri a 1 s Workmanship Con

42、tent Palletization Any component missing, damaged, or not as specified Inadequate application of components, such as: incomplete closure of container flaps, loose strapping, improper taping, or inadequate stapling Number of items in container is more or less than required NSN shown on one or more it

43、ems not as specified on shipping container Length, width, or height exceeds specified maximum requirements Pallet type not as specified Load not bonded as specified PACKAGING. Overseas. Packaainq. Each necktie shall be folded. Packinq. Two hundred and twenty-five neckties shall be packed in a fiberb

44、oard box conforming to style RSC-L, grade 275 of PPP-B-636. The inside dimensions of the box shall be approximately 23-1/2 inches in length, 15-1/2 inches in width, and 6-1/2 inches in depth. The box shall be closed in accordance with the appendix of PPP-B-636. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo repr

45、oduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55199 W 9999974 0344483 252 M A-A-55 199 Palletization. Boxes shall be palletized on a 4-way entry pallet O in accordance with load type Ia of MIL-STD-147. Each prepared load shall be loaded with primary and secondary straps in accord

46、ance with bonding means C and D, or film bonding means F or G. appendix of MIL-STD-147. The pallet pattern shall be number 3 in accordance with the Markinq. Marking shall be in accordance with MIL-STD-129. Domestic. Packaqinq, p ackina, KI alletization and markinq. Packaging, packing, palletization,

47、 and marking shall be in accordance with ASTM D 3951. Source of Government Documents. Copies of Military and Federal documents are available from: Standardization Documents Order Desk Bldg. 4D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094 Sources of Nonaovernment Documents. O ANSI/ASQC 21.4 - Sampl

48、ing Procedures and Tables For Inspection By Attributes (Applications for copies should be addressed to American National Standards Institute, 1430 Broadway, New York, NY 10018- 3308. ) AATCC Test Methods (Applications for copies should be addressed to the AATCC National Headquarters, P. O. Box 12215

49、, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215. ) ASTM Test Methods (Applications for copies should be addressed to American Society For Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103.) 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-Custodians : Army - GL Navy - NU Air Force - 11 A-A-55199 m 9999974 0144490 T74 m A-A-55 19 9 Review Activities: Army - MD Navy