DLA A-A-55219-1993 TROUSERS MEN-S (ENLISTED WHITE)《男式白色士兵长裤》.pdf

1、A-A-55219 9977974 0145L04 652 v T A-A-5 5 2 19 2 Julv 1993 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION TROUSERS, MENS (ENLISTED, WHITE) The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this Commercial Item Description in preference to MIL-T-87067. Abstract. This document covers the requirements for whi

2、te polyester bell bottom trousers. The trousers are intended for wear by male personnel of the Navy. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS General Description. The trousers shall be of single needle construction with a sewn on waistband, belt loops, hook and eye closure, a left over right front fly with slide fas

3、tener, two straight side seam pockets, unfinished bell bottoms and double welt back hip pockets with button and buttonhole tab on left hip pocket (reference figure 1). The seat seam shall be stitched with a double needle seat seamer, with an outlet in the back seat seam. The trousers shall have a fr

4、ont and back lining extending from the waistband to the bottom of the pockets, with back darts sewn through lining and basic material; the dart in the lining slit open. All exposed edges shall have overedge stitching. Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data

5、 which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FSSC, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19101-8419, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at th

6、e end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8405 0 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55219 = 9qqqq74 OI145L05 599 A-A-55 2 19 The waistband shal

7、l be made of basic material with an inter- lining, stabilizer and lining. The finished width shall be 1-1/2 L + 1/8) inches with a topstitch 1/16 inch from waist seam through lining. The right front fly shall be lined from the top of the 7 waistband to approximately 1/2 inch beyond inseam, and shall

8、 have a sewn in or integrated buttonhole tab. * 4 The trouser shall have 7 belt loops for sizes up to and including 37, 8 loops for size 38 and above. The belt loops shall be bartacked 1/16 to 1/8 inch from top of waistband before folding down even with top edge of waistband. The bottom of belt loop

9、s shall fold 5/16 to 7/16 inch below waistband joining seam, with a bartack 1/8 inch from folded edge. be 5/16 to 3/8 inch wide, and 1-3/4 (2 1/8) inches long between top fold and bottom bartack. shall be as follows: The finished belt loop shall The placement of the belt loops a loop in the center o

10、f the right and left fronts, a loop adjacent to each side seam on back, a loop centered on the right and left backs, a loop centered on back seat seam, a loop positioned on right front (for sizes 38 and above) 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 inches from edge of left fly when closed. The side seam pockets shall be ba

11、rtacked above and below the opening, which shall measure 6-1/4 (2 1/4) inches. The front of pocket opening shall be topstitched 3/16 to 1/4 inch from edge. Side pocket facing and bearer pieces shall be of basic fabric. The double welt back hip pocket shall finish 5-1/4 (2 1/8) inches wide, with a 1/

12、8 to 3/16 inch welt edge. The pocket shall finish 5-3/4 to 6-1/4 inches deep, with the label centered and stitched on four sides to pocket, facing the wearer. The hip pocket on wearers left shall have a buttonhole tab finishing 1-1/4 (2 1/8) inches long, formed from a piece of stripping folded in ha

13、lf with a bartack at the pointed end catching the base of the triangle and a second bartack across the abutted edges 5/8 (2 1/16) inch from the first bartack, forming a slit buttonhole. All bartacks shall be made by machine, and shall finish 3/8 to 1/2 inch long. The back hip pockets shall have vert

14、ical bartacks at both ends. The base of the fly opening shall have a bartack at the junction of the crotch seam and on the “J“ stitching line, which shall not extend beyond the crotch seam. The finished trousers shall be pressed at the top. shall be pressed flat (pants inside out) with front legs on

15、 top of back, inseams and outseams open and flat, and creases along back edge of outseams. Inseams and outseams shall remain open after pressing. The legs 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-I . A-A-55219 9999974 OL45LOb 425 m A-A-5 5 2

16、 19 Basic Material. The basic material for the trousers shall be a 100% polyester 2/1 right hand twill, texturized by the false twist process. The yarn shall be 2 plies of semi dull, 150 denier, octalobal cross section, 33 (2 3) filaments per ply polyester. The cloth shall match shade White 3006 and

17、 shall be given one of the following soil release finishes approved by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility: Compound Companv Zelcon 4951 FC-258 Milease HPA E.I. DuPont de Nemours no scouring is required. f. Hydroextract the test specimen to remove excess moisture. used. Air dry or oven d

18、ry at 220 F. Trouser Linina Material. The material for lining the trousers shall be 32 gauge, 100% nylon tricot knit fabric with a front knitting bar of round cross section 30 denier, 10 filaments and a back knitting bar of tri-loba1 cross section 40 denier, 13 filaments. Both yarns shall have perma

19、nent built-in anti-static protection. The knit pattern shall be front bar 1-O/O-1 and back bar 1-0/4-5. The finished cloth shall be White, shade 3006, and shall conform to the requirements specified in Table II when - tested as specified. TABLE II - TROUSER LINING MATERIAL REQUIREMENTS Characteristi

20、c Fiber identification Weight Wales per inch Courses per inch Bursting strength Dimensional stability Discoloration to perspiration Discoloration to laundering overedging shall use Ticket No. 70, 2 ply; button sewing shall use Ticket No. 50, 2 ply. As an alternate, white cotton machine thread confor

21、ming to A-A-52094 may be used. Seaming shall use Ticket No. 40 or 50, 3 ply; overedging shall use Ticket No. 70, 2 ply; button sewing shall use Ticket No. 24, 4 ply. Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the right front fly buttonhole shall be 100% cotton, bleached white, conforming to type I or II, Ticket

22、 No. 8 of A-A-50198. Button. The button for the left hip pocket and fly-tab closure shall be melamine plastic, shade White BA, C.A. 62031, 22 line, flat, glossy finish with 4 sewing holes. Slide Fastener. The slide fastener for closing the front fly shall be non-separating, non-reversible, with a ca

23、m lock slider, short tab pull and bottom stop. The size shall be light special, and the tape shall be cotton or a polyester/cotton blend, approximating the shade of the basic material. The chain, slider and bottom stop shall be made of brass, except for the semi- automatic pin lock cover and spring,

24、 which shall be stainless steel. 0 Hook and Eve. The hook and eye for the trouser waistband shall be North and Judd (Hook Flex H-49E50); Universal Fastener (Elite #3, #7, and #8 hook with #8 eye or #85 eye); Akim Co. (Junior Series - type JB, Slim-Slak with MB eye and Slik-Slak); Stimpson (P-536, D-

25、4086, D-4457, D-4228) or equal. The finish shall be nickel plate, and the base metal shall be steel. Sizes and Lenuths. The trousers shall be provided in the following sizes and lengths: Sizes: 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, and 46 Lenuths: Short, Reg

26、ular, Long and Extra Long NOTE: The lengths (Short, Regular, Long, and X-Long) may be abbreviated as S, R, L and XL. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55219 9999974 0145111 892 A-A-5 5 2 19 Label. Each pair of trousers shall have

27、a white, non-woven, commercial type label which shall be affixed to the center of the right hip pocketing, facing the wearer. The inscription shall show fastness to laundering and shall contain the following information: NAME: SERVICE NO.: TROUSERS, MENS (ENLISTED, WHITE) SIZE: NATIONAL STOCK NUMBER

28、: FIBER CONTENT: Outer Shell: 100% Polyester CONTRACT NO: NAME OF CONTF4ACTOR/MA“ACTURER Lining: 100% Nylon LAUNDERING INSTRUCTION Machine Wash - Hot Water DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH or Hang Dry Tumble Dry - Medium Heat, Remove Promptly or USE NAVTRNG MANUAL 414-01-45-81 - Formula II Note: Abbreviat

29、ions for applicable lengths may be used (EXAMPLE - 34R). Each trouser shall be individually bar-coded with the type VIII, class 17 label/tag of DDD-L-20. This label/tag shall be located so that it is completely visible on each trouser and causes no damage to the item. Defects. Bar-code omitted or no

30、t readable by scanner, Human- Readable Interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible. Bar-coded type not as specified, code density not as specified. Removable Size Ticket. Each trouser shall have a commercial type size ticket attached to the outside of the waistband above the left back pocket. The tick

31、et shall be approximately 3 inches long and 1 inch high, made of a suitable plain white cardboard. The trouser size shall be printed or stamped on the upper left hand corner in black or blue ink. The lettering for the size shall be 1/4 inch in height. Abbreviations for lengths shall be allowed. a Pr

32、ovided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55219 = 9999979 0145112 729 = A-A-55 2 19 Patterns. The government shall furnish a single size pattern. The contractor is responsible for grading patterns for additional sizes. The pattern generally p

33、rovides for a seam allowance of 3/8 inch for joining seams, with the exception of a 1/4 inch seam allowance for pocket facing and assembly, and seat seam allowance of 1-1/4 inches at the waist, tapering to 3/8 inch at crotch. Commercial patterns may be used in lieu of the government furnished patter

34、n provided they conform to the cited design and finished measurements. Sizes and Measurements. The finished trousers shall conform to the measurements listed in Table IV. All measurements and tolerances are expressed in inches. Workmanship. of product established by this document. The occurrence of

35、defects shall not exceed the applicable acceptable quality levels. The finished trouser shall conform to the quality Product Demonstration Model. When required, offerers shall submit samples of their intended production. The Product Demonstration Model shall consist of units independently developed.

36、 Product Demonstration Models shall be analyzed and evaluated by the government. Evaluation criteria and basis for award are contained in the solicitation. Product Demonstration Models shall be retained by the government. One (1) Product Demonstration Model approved by DPSC under the resultant contr

37、act shall serve as a manufacturing standard for the corresponding production items delivered under this contract. Offerers are advised that the Product Demonstration Model does not relieve the successful offerer of his responsibility to perform in accordance with the Commercial Item Description spec

38、ified above. Requlatory ReQuirements. use recovered materials in accordance with Public Law 94-580 to the maximum extent practicable. The offeror/contractor is encouraged to 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55219 9999974 0145113

39、665 A-A-5 5 2 19 TABLE IV - SIZES AND MEASUREMENTS Size Waist Seat 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 Tol. - Note : 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 +3/4 -1/2 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 +3/4 -1/2 Inseam - U

40、nhemmed 3/ S 32-1/2 32-1/2 32-1/2 32-1/2 32-1/2 32-1/2 32-1/2 32-1/2 32-1/2 32-1/2 32-1/2 32-1/2 32-1/2 32-1/2 32-1/2 32-1/2 32-1/2 32-1/2 32-1/2 32-1/2 32-1/2 - +1/2 R 34-1/2 34-1/2 34-1/2 34-1/2 34-1/2 34-1/2 34-1/2 34-1/2 34-1/2 34-1/2 34-1/2 34-1/2 34-1/2 34-1/2 34-1/2 34-1/2 34-1/2 34-1/2 34-1/

41、2 34-1/2 34-1/2 - +1/2 L 36-1/2 36-1/2 36-1/2 36-1/2 36-1/2 36-1/2 36-1/2 36-1/2 36-1/2 36-1/2 36-1/2 36-1/2 36-1/2 36-1/2 36-1/2 36-1/2 36-1/2 36-1/2 36-1/2 36-1/2 36-1/2 - +1/2 XL 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2

42、 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 38-1/2 - +1/2 Knee - 4/ Leg z/ Bottom 17-1/2 17-1/2 18-1/4 18-1/4 19 19 19-3/4 19-3/4 20-1/2 20-1/2 21-1/4 21-1/4 21-3/4 21-3/4 22-1/4 22-1/4 23 23 23-1/2 23-1/2 24 - +1/2 Measurements for waist and seat shall be taken with slide 20-1/2 20-1/2 21-1/4 21-1/4 22 22 22-3/4 22-3/4

43、23-1/2 23-1/2 24 24 24-1/2 24-1/2 25 25 25-1/2 25-1/2 26-1/2 - +1/2 fastener and waistband closed. All measurements shall be taken with trousers laid out smooth and flat. - i/ Waist: - 2/ Seat: - 3/ Inseam: - 4/ Knee: Double the measurement across the top edge of waistband from folded edge to folded

44、 edge. edge one inch above fly bartack. unfinished bottom of legs. Double the measurement taken from folded edge to folded edge across the width of trouser leg. Location of knee measurements shall be the following distance from bottom of trousers : Double the measurement taken from folded edge to fo

45、lded Measurement taken along inseam from crotch seam to Short - 19 inches Long - 21 inches Regular - 20 inches X-Long - 22 inches I D - 5/ Bottom: Double the measurement taken from folded edge to folded edge across unfinished bottom of leg. 10 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networki

46、ng permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55217 = 7777774 0145LL4 5TL m A-A-55 2 19 QUALITY ASSURANCE 0 Certification. The contractor shall certify that the product offered meets the salient characteristics of this description and that the product conforms to the producers own drawings, specific

47、ations, standards and quality assurance practices. The government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to the first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for, under the provisions of the contract. Reliance on contractor QA systems shall not relieve the contrac

48、tor of the responsibility of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Examination. Trouser lots shall be inspected in accordance with “Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes”, ANSI/ASQC 21.4,

49、published by the American Society for Quality Control. Visual Examination. The trousers shall be examined for the defects listed below. The lot size shall be expressed in units of trousers. The sample unit is one trouser. The inspection level shall be III and the acceptable quality level expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be 0.65. (AQL), 0 Defects. The trousers shall be examined for the defects listed in Table V. TABLE V - END ITEM VISUAL DEFE