DLA A-A-55263-1994 SHIRT WOMAN-S TUCK-IN《女式缩拢物料衬衫》.pdf

1、A-A-55263 = 9999974 0165777 627 = I INCH-POUND I A-A-55 2 6 3 November 4, 1994 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION SHIRT, WOMANS, TUCK-IN The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this commercial item description as a replacement,for YAGC 91-2 for all Federal agencies. 1. Scope. This com

2、mercial item description covers the requirements for womans tuck-in short and long sleeve dress shirt. The shirt is intended to be worn by female military personnel of the Department of the Air Force . 2. Classification. The shirt shall be of one type and two classes. Class 1 - Short sleeve Class 2

3、- Long sleeve Beneficial comments, recommendations, additions, deletions, clarifications, etc. and any data which may improve this document should be sent to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FQSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19145-5099. I

4、AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-3. Salient characteristics. 3.1 Description. The tuck-in shirt shall have a princess-line style with a

5、 two-piece split front and a one piece back and the princess seams shall extend to the shoulder seams. The shirt shall have a 7 button front closure with straight cut, purl or whip type buttonholes, positioned with one horizontal buttonhole at top of right front 1/2 2 1/16 inch from the finished fro

6、nt edge and 6 vertical buttonholes through right front 5/8 +. 1/16 inch from folded edge positioned in accordance with buttonhole marker. The shirt shall have two shoulder epaulets with edge stitching on sides and pointed edges, 1/4 inch from edge. Epaulets shall be positioned so that pointed end of

7、 epaulet shall not extend beyond collar seam. The shirt shall have a convertible shirt waist collar with edge stitching on the upper and side edges 1/4 inch from seamed edges and shall have a shaped collar stand. The collar shall finish 2-3/4 2 1/8 inches long when measured from junction point of co

8、llar and lapel. Note: The collar is positioned so that it begins approximately 3/4 inch from folded edge of fronts. The shoulder epaulets shall have a straight cut, purl or whip type horizontal buttonhole centered in epaulet with cut edge of buttonhole 1/2 inch from pointed end. Epaulets shall finis

9、h 1-3/4 2 1/8 inches wide at armhole seam tapering to 1-1/2 2 1/8 inches at buttonhole end. The shirt shall have a button positioned on each shoulder positioned 1/8 2 1/16 inch forward of shoulder seam to correspond with buttonhole in epaulets. The collar, collar stand, epaulets, class 2 shirt cuffs

10、, and front facing shall have fusible interlining. The shirt shall have a 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide bottom hem with raw edge turned under. The shirt front facing shall be of basic material and shall finish 2-1/2 inches wide down front and 1-1/2 inches wide at shoulder. A11 raw edges of shirt shall be ov

11、eredge stitch. There shall be a combination identification and instruction label and a size label centered at back of neck and sewn into collar seam. The class 1 (figure i) shirts sleeves shall have a 1-1/4 to 1- 3/8 inches hem with the raw edge folded under. shirts sleeves shall have bound sleeve o

12、penings using a continuous strip of basic material and binding shall finish 1/2 to 3/8 inch wide. The class 2 1 The class 2 shirt (figure 2) shall have a 3/4 inch deep sleeve pleat at cuff positioned 2 to 2-1/2 inches from bound sleeve opening on back of sleeve. The cuffs shall finish 2-1/4 2 1/8 in

13、ches wide, shall have rounded lower corners, a horizontal straight purl or whip type buttonhole centered, f: 1/4 inch, in cuff 1/2 2 1/8 inch from the front edge and two buttons on each cuff for adjustments. The cuffs shall be edge stitched 1/4 inch 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or

14、networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55263 m 9999974 0365999 4TT m A-A- 5 5 2 6 3 from seamed edge and shall finish at top edge of cuff, edge stitching maytaper to edge of cuff at top of cuff. The shirt shall have a minimum rating of “4“ for seam appearance at a distance of 3 feet w

15、hen tested in accordance with AATCC Test Method 88B. 3.2 Fiqures. Figures are furnished for information purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the commercial item description and the figures, the commercial item description shall govern. 3.3 Pattern. The government shall furnish

16、 a single size pattern. The contractor is responsible for grading patterns for additional sizes. The pattern generally provides for a seam allowance of 1/4 inch for joining seams. Commercial patterns may be used in lieu of the government furnished pattern provided they conform to the cited design an

17、d finished measurements. 3.4 Basic Material. The basic material for the shirt shall be a polyester and cotton blend broadcloth treated with a durable press finish, The cotton shall be carded and then combed. All yarn shall be a blend of 65 (2 5) percent polyester and the remaining percentage combed

18、cotton and shall be drawn and spun into single yarns for both warp and filling. The material shall be a plain weave, end-and-end construction with alternate dyed and white warp yarns and an all white filling. The finished material shall match the standard sample for color Air Force Blue, shade 1550.

19、 The material shall be scoured, singed, stabilized, and mercerized as required to result in a smooth and lustrous finish equal in character to the standard sample. The material shall weigh 3.8 to 4.3 ounces per square yard and have a minimum of 100 ends per inch and 62 picks per inch when tested in

20、accordance with ASTM D-3776, Option C, and shall have a minimum breaking strength of 85 pounds in the warp and a minimum of 55 pounds in the filling when tested in accordance with ASTM D-5034. The cloth shall have a tear strength of 5 lbs. in the warp and 3 lbs. in the filling when tested in accorda

21、nce with ASTM D-1424. The finished material shall not shrink or elongate more than 2.0 percent in either the warp or filling direction when tested in accordance with AATCC 135, with a specimen size of 22 by 22 inches with 18 inch markings in both warp and filling directions. The material shall have

22、a r ting of Igood“ gr *t5“ wh n tested for colo fastness to laundering /, pFrspiration /, light /, dry heat /, and wet and dry crocking /. B 5 8 Footnotes: - i/ Colorfastness to laundering - In accordance with AATCC 61 Test 3A (after 3 wash and dry cycles), except the sample size shall be 4.0 2 0.5

23、grams with a water hardness not more than 50 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55 26 3 parts per million. The rotating time shall be 30 minutes with ten stainless steel balls in each cylinder, soap solution shall contain 0.5 perce

24、nt by weight, P-D-245, detergent, laundry, type II. - 2/ Colorfastness to perspiration - In accordance with AATCC 15 except the test for acid and alkaline solution shall apply. - 3/ Colorfastness to light - In accordance with AATCC 16, Option A, except when a color change equal to step 4 on the Gray

25、 scale is evident in either the standard sample or sample being evaluated, exposure shall continue for an additional number of hours equal to the number of hours at which the color change was apparent. Specimens which do not show a color change until 80 AFUs shall have a maximum exposure of 140 hour

26、s. - 4/ Colorfastness to dry heat - In accordance with AATCC 117. 5/ ATCC 8. Colorfastness to wet is dry crocking - In accordance with 3.5 Interlinina Material. The interlining material shall be a white fusible non-woven web, 50 to 100 percent polyester with the remaining percentage nylon, thermally

27、 bonded by heat-activated fibers or powders. with a weight of 1.7 to 2.4 ounces per square yard when tested in accordance with ASTM D-3776, Option C. The material shall have a minimum breaking strength of 3.0 pounds for the machine (warp) direction and 2.0 pounds for the crosswise (filling) directio

28、n when tested in accordance with ASTM D-5034. For optimum fusing results, the fusing material manufacturers recommendations for fusing, dwell time, pressure, and temperature, based upon fusing equipment used and basic material shall be utilized. There shall be no evidence of bubbling or delamination

29、 of the fusing area and there shall be no “strike through“ of the adhesive after fusing. The web shall be either flat or print-bonded 3.6 Labels. 3.6.1 Combination label. The combination identification and instruction label shall be a nonwoven material and have the following printed inscription and

30、shall include commercial laundering instructions: SHIRT, WOMAN“S, TUCK-IN FIBER CONTENT: POLYESTER (65%) - COTTON (35%) STYLE NO: NAME OF CONTRACTOR: The combination label shall be clearly legible and show “good“ colorfastness to laundering when tested in accordance with AATCC No. 61, Test IV. 3.6.2

31、 Size identification. The size identification shall be stamped on the collar at center back neck using a black marking 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55263 = 9999974 OLbbOOL 756 SIZd 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 A-A-55 2 6 3 BUST

32、LENGTH COLLAR SHORT A B C D 18-1/4 25-5/8 13-3/8 4-1/2 18-3/4 25-7/8 13-5/8 4-1/2 19-1/4 26-1/4 13-7/8 4-1/2 20-1/4 26-1/2 14-1/8 4-1/2 21 26-7/8 14-3/8 4-1/2 21-3/4 27-1/4 14-3/4 4-1/2 22-1/2 27-1/2 15-1/8 4-1/2 23-1/2 27-3/4 15-1/2 4-1/2 24-1/2 28-1/8 16 4-1/2 25-1/2 28-1/2 16-1/2 4-1/2 L medium.

33、Note: sleeve length may be abbreviated as laSS“ for class 1 shirt, and for class 2 shirt “SLS“, “RLS“, and QaLLSta may be used. 3.7 Thread. The thread shall be White, C.A. 66050, conforming to A-A-50199 Ticket No. 70, 2-ply for the needle, ticket No. 100, 2 ply for the looper, and ticket No. 50, 2 p

34、ly for button and buttonholes. 3.8 Buttons. The shirts buttons shall conform to size 19 line, Type II, Class K, Style 25 of V-B-871 and shall match color white cable no. 62031 in accordance with the Department of Defense Standard Shades for Buttons. 3.9 Size and measurements. The shirt shall conform

35、 to the size and measurements in Table I. TABLE I. - Finished Measurements. (in Inches) II SLEEVE II I BACK1 I I CLASS 11 CLASS i SHpRT E/ 28-3/4 29-1/4 29-5/8 30-1/4 30-1/2 30-7/8 31-1/4 31-1/2 29 30 + 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/2 ToL./ 1 - 1/4 1- 1- 11- 1 - 1/4 LENGTH CLASS 2 REGF E/ 30-1/4 30-1/2

36、30-3/4 31-1/8 31-1/2 31-3/4 32-3/8 32-3/4 33 32 + 1/2 - 1/4 CLASS 2 *N9 E/ 32-7/8 33-1/8 33-3/8 33-7/8 34-1/4 34-1/2 34-3/4 35-1/8 35-1/2 35-3/4 + 1/2 - 1/4 Footnotes: - i/ Inseam sleeve length - Short - all sizes shall be 16-1/2 (2 1/4) inches when measured from the underarm seam along the seam to

37、the bottom edge of the sleeve cuff. Sleeve inseams shall be within + 1/4 inch measurement of each other. 2/ Inseam sleeve length - Regular - all sizes shal be 18 (2 1/4) inches when measured as stated in footnote - 3/ (5 1/4) inches when measured as stated in footnote * - i/ Inseam sleeve length - L

38、long - all sizes shall bf/20-5/8 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55 2 6 3 A. BUST: Measurement taken across front at the base of armhole from folded edge to folded edge. B. BACK LENGTH: Measurement taken along center of back fro

39、m collarstand seam to bottom edge of shirt. C. COLLAR: Measurement taken along inside, from collar end to collar end, at the gorge. D. SHORT SLEEVE LENGTH: Measurement taken along inseam, from underarm seam to bottom edge of sleeve. E. LONG SLEEVE OUTSEAM LENGTH (Short, Regular and Long): Measuremen

40、t taken from center back at collarstand to seam, diagonally across back and down sleeve to bottom of cuff. 3.10 Label/taq. the type VIII, class 17 label/tag of DDD-L-20. This label/tag shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so

41、 that it causes no damage to the item. Each item shall be individually bar-coded with 3.11 REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS. The offeror/contractor is encouraged to use recovered materials to the maximum extent practicable, in accordance with paragraph 23.403 of the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR). 4. Q

42、UALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS 4.1 Certification. The contractor shall certify and maintain substantiating evidence that the product offered meets the salient characteristics of this commercial item description; conforms to the producers own drawings, specifications, standards, and quality assurance pr

43、actices; and is the same product offered for sale in the commercial marketplace. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance prior to the first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for under the provisions of the contract. 4.2 Market acceptability criteria.

44、 The item offered must have been sold to the commercial market or to the Government, and the contractor shall certify and provide supporting documentation as to its serviceability and the long term (five years) availability of all necessary maintenance and logistics support parts and materials. 4.3

45、Warrantv. The item offered shall include the standard warranty given to the commercial market beginning with the date of delivery of the individual items. 4.4 Visual examination. Each shirt shall be examined for the defects listed in paragraph 4.4.1. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or

46、 networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-552b3 W 9999974 0366003 529 m A-A-5526 3 4.4.1 Defects. Any hole, cut, or tear; color not as specified; any part shaded; any spot or stain (outside); raw edges, open seams, thread ends not removed, or loose tension resulting in loose seams; any

47、material defects, distorted parts or poor workmanship; any component part omitted; label missing, incorrect, or illegible; measurement of item not as specified; bar code omitted or not readable by scanner; human-readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible; bar code not visible on folded, pack

48、aged item; bar code causes damage to the item; any items not packaged in accordance with the contract or purchase order. 5. Preservation, packina. and marking. The preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or order. 6. NOTES 6.1 Source of Government documents. Copies o

49、f military and Federal documents are available from: Standardization Documents Order Desk Bldg. 4D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094 6.2 Source of non-Government documents ASTM Test Methods (Applications for copies should be addressed to American Society For Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103-1187.) AATCC Test Method (Applications for copies should be addressed to American Association of Textile Chemists and Co