DLA A-A-55304-1997 SKIRT WOMAN-S DRESS POLYESTER WOOL《女式聚酯 羊毛服装》.pdf

1、I A-A-55304 = 9999974 0173425 T4T PETITE (P) 10 12 14 16 I INCH-POUND I February 5,1997 A-A-55304 REGULAR (R) TALL (T) 10 10 12 12 14 14 16 16 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION SKIRT, WOMANS DRESS, POLYESTER/WOOL The General Service Administration has authorized the use of this Commercial item description

2、 as a replacement for MIL-S-44102 for all Federal agencies. 1. SCOPE. This Commercial Item Description covers the requirements for a polyester/wool serge dress skirt. The skirt is intended to be worn by female personnel of the Department of Defense as part of the Armys Dress uniform. 2. CLASSIFICATI

3、ON. The skirt shall be of one type in the following sizes: SCHEDULE OF SIZES Beneficial comments, recommendation, additions, deletions, clarifications, etc. and any data which may improve this document should be sent to : Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPS

4、C-FNS, 280 South 20th Street, Philadehhia. PA 19145-5099. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55304 9999974 0333426 986 A-A-55304 PETI

5、TE (P) REGULAR (R) I TALL (T) 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 PETITE (P) 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 REGULAR (R) TALL (T) 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 6 8 10 12 14 16 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS 3.1 DescriDtion 3.1.1 m. The skirt is a dress type with a one-piece set-on waistband with both ends to but

6、ton at center back opening, a rubberized track on inside of the waistband, a back slide fastener with edge stitching along back seam the length of the slide fastener only, two front and two back darts, a waistband pocket on right front, a back open pleat finishing right over left, a free hanging ful

7、l lining attached to the skirt at waistband with an inverted pleat in the lining, and an unhemmed bottom. All exposed edges and the bottom of skirt shall be overedge stitched. 3.1.2 Waistband and back opening. The one piece waistband shall finish 1-1/4 2 118 inches in width with a iock stitch immedi

8、ately below the waist seam, through the skirt and waistband lining. The back opening shall have buttonholes placed as indicated on patterns, corresponding to buttons on the waistband and a slide fastener. The buttonholes shall be eyelet end, cut after, taper-bar type worked over gimp with the end se

9、curely tacked. The finished cut length of the buttonhole shall be 34 inch. 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-1 A-A-55 30 4 m 9999974 0373427 812 m A-A-55304 3.1.3 Pocket. The pocket shall be centered over the right dart (when worn).Th

10、e right front waistband pocket shall measure 3-314 I 118 inches at the opening for all sizes. The front of the pocket opening shall be topstitched 3/16 to 1/4 inch from the edge. The waistband pocket shell shall be of basic material and the waistband pocket lining shall be of lining material. 3.2 Ma

11、terial 3.2.1 Basic material. The basic material for the skirt shall be a 55 percent polyester/45 percent wool serge cloth, conforming to type III, class 3 of MIL-C-823. The color shall match Army Green 489. 3.2.2 Lining. The material for the skirt lining and pocket lining shall be a polyester twill

12、conforming to class 3 of A-A-52106. The color shall approximate Army Green 468. 3.2.3 Waistband lining. The material for the waistband lining (See 3.2.6.1) shall be 100% polyester, polyester and cotton or polyester and rayon twill, dyed black, conforming to Class 1 of A-A-52 106. 3.2.4 Waistband sta

13、bilizer. The material for the waistband stabilizer shall be black, bleached or unbleached cotton buckram conforming to type II of A-A-501 86. 3.2.5 Waistband interlining material. The material for the waistband interlining shall be a fusible interlining conforming to type V, class 1, style B of MLL-

14、C-44296. 3.2.6 Rubberized waistband lining. The material for the rubberized waistband shall consist of two rows of rubber material woven into a base of 100 percent polyester webbing. Each row of rubber shall consist of four ends of bare, square cut, low modulus, heat resistant, neoprene based rubber

15、 compound yarns. The two rows of woven rubber yarns shall be 3/8 inch (nominal) distance apart. The finished waistband material shall be white in shade, 7/8 i 1/16 inch wide with selvage, non-fraying edges. The finished waistband shall not exceed 2.0 percent dimensional stability, and shall show no

16、evidence of flaking decomposition, cracking or increased stiffness when tested for resistance to dry heat, steam pressing , and perchloroethylene solvent as specified in 3.2.6.2. 3.2.6.1 Rubberized waistband lining construction. The waistband lining may be a commercial type using lining, stabilizer,

17、 rubberized inside track and waistband materials specified. If a commercial type rubberized waistband lining is not used, the contractor may manufacture one as follows: Overlap the lining 1/4 inch on the rubber track material, position the lining 118 inch from each rubber track and stitch 1/16 inch

18、from edge of lining. Overlap the lining on the interlining 1 inch and stitch 118 to 3/16 inch from edge of lining. Position waistband stabilizer to opposite remaining edge of interlining and stitch 1/2 inch from edge. Fold lining over interlining and press. The waistband stabilizer may be inserted d

19、uring the joining of the waistband and waistband lining. The waistband lining shall be cut on the bias. The total width of the rubberized waistband lining shall measure 1-1/2 1/8 inches in width in the finished skirt. The waistband lining may be pieced providing there is no more than one piecing on

20、each skirt. The 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55304 9999974 0373428 759 A-A-55304 L ! one-piece rubberized waistband lining shall be stitched to the top edge of the waistband. Fold waistband lining to the inside and press top

21、edge. The lining shall not be exposed beyond the top of waistband. 3.2.6.2 Waistband resistance testing. The skirt shall have a minimum rating of “good“ when evaluated for waistband resistance to dry heat (after 3 exposures) in accordance with Test Method 5642 of FED-STD-191 Textile Test Methods. Te

22、st shall be performed at a maximum of 400 degrees F using steam pressing. The waistband lining shall be wet with water and steam pressed at a temperature of 240 to 250 degrees F for one minute. The lining shall then be allowed to reach room temperature and without rewetting, steam pressed again for

23、one minute. Repeat the process two more times and visually check for degradation after each exposure, and perchloroethylene solvent (after 3 exposures) in accordance with Test Method 562 1 of FED- STD- 19 1. 3.2.7 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be polyester or nylon continuous monofilament

24、 chain, or a single length slide fastener may be used for all skirt sizes. The slide fastener shall have an automatic lock slider, top stop, staple bottom stop, 7/16 or 9/16 inch width tape. The color of the tape shall be Green, Cable No. 66524, and shall show “good“ colorfastness to wet/drycleaning

25、 when tested in accordance with AATCC 132. 3.2.8 Buttons. The buttons for the back closure shall be melamine composition, 24 line with 4 sewing holes, type II, class D, style 20 or 2 1 of V-B-87 1. The color of the buttons shall match Army Green BR, Cable No. 62015. 3.2.9 Thread. The thread used for

26、 stitching and seaming shall be cotton or polyester covered polyester core, 2 ply, 36-45 tex, and for overedge stitching shall be a 2 ply, 3 1-35 tex, dyed Green E. C.A. 66034, conforming to A-A-50199. As an alternate, cotton thread dyed Green E, C.A. 66034. conforming to type I of A-A-52094 may be

27、used. 3.2.10 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be cotton, size Number 8, matching shade AG 489, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198. 3.2.1 1 Labels 3.2.1 1.1 Combination label. Each skirt shall have a white, nonwoven, acrylic coated, commercial type label which shall be sewn i

28、nto the waistband. The inscription shall show “good“ colorfastness to wet drycleaning, when tested in accordance with AATCC 132, and shall contain the following information: NAME: SKIRT, WOMANS DRESS, POLYESTERNOOL FIBER CONTENT: 55% polyester/45% wool (Example) STOCK NUMBER: 84 1 O-00-OOO-oo00 (Exa

29、mple) NAME OF CONTRACTORMANUFACTURER DRY CLEAN ONLY Presdiron temperature with steam 325 11 6 degrees F or wool setting with steam. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- A-A-55304 9999974 0173429 695 A-A-55304 i 3.2.1 1.2 Size labels. Ea

30、ch skirt shall have a white, nonwoven, acrylic coated, commercial type size label which shall be stitched into the inside of waistband on right back side of skirt (when worn). The body measurements printed on the label shall be in accordance with Tables I and II. The inscription shall show “good“ co

31、lorfastness to wet dry-cleaning, when tested in accordance with AATCC 132, and shall contain the following information: 28138-112 (Example) (Size 1 OMT) (Example) HEIGHT: More than 67 inches (Example) CONTRACT NO: NOTE: The first line of the label is the body measurements (waisthip), the second line

32、 is the size designation, the third is the height and the fourth is the contract number. TABLE I. Body measurements SIZE CODE 4 6 6W 8 8W 105 10 1 ow 125 12 12w 145 14 14W 16J 16 16W 18 18W 20 20w 22 24 26 WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE (INCHES) 24- 1 I2 25- 112 25- 112 26- 1 I2 26- 112 28 28 28 29- 1 I2 29- 1

33、 I2 29- 112 31 31 31 33 33 33 35 35 37 37 39 41 43 HIP CIRCUMFERENCE (INCHES) 35 36 38 37 39 36- 1 12 38-112 40- 1 12 38 40 42 39-112 41-112 43-112 41-112 43- 112 45- 112 45- 1 12 47-112 47-112 49- 1 12 49- 112 51-112 53-112 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted with

34、out license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55304 m 9999974 0173430 303 m A-A-55304 Less than 63-1/2 inches Petite TABLE II. Height ranges 63-1/2 to 67 inches More than 67 inches Regular Tall 3.2.1 1.3 Labelhag. Each skirt shall be individually bar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag

35、shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each skirt by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The

36、bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). The bar code type shall be a medium to high code density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the skirt when it is folded andor packaged as specified and so that it causes no damage to the skirt. 3.3 Figure. The

37、figure is furnished for information only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figure, the specification shall control. 3.4 Patterns. The government shall furnish a complete set of patterns which provides for a 1 inch seam allowance for joining all seams, ex

38、cept a 3/8 inch seam allowance is provided for attaching the waistband. The government patterns may be used to create the contractors working patterns. Minor modifications are permitted to accommodate manufacturing procedures, however, the design and finished measurements must be maintained. The con

39、tractor may use his own commercial patterns provided they conform to the required design and finished measurements specified herein. 3.5 List of pattern parts. The following pattern parts listed in Table III are provided to insure the pattern set is complete. TABLE III. List of uattern parts MATERIA

40、L Basic material I Interlining material Lining material NOMENCLATURE Front Back Front pocket shell Waistband Zipper placket (outional) Waistband interlining Front Back Front pocket lining ABBREVIATIONS I CUT PARTS FRONT BACK FIXT-PKT-SHLL WAISTBAND ZPPR-PLACKET WSTB AND-INT FRONT-LIN BACK-LIN FRT-PK

41、T-LIN 1 1 2 1 3.6 Dimensions. The finished unhemmed skirts shall conform to the measurements in Table IV 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55304 W 9999974 0173431 243 = A-A-55304 Table IV. Finished measurements SIZE 4 6 8 10 12 14

42、 16 18 20 22 24 26 WAIST 11 24- 112 25- 112 26- 112 28 29- 112 31 33 35 37 39 41 43 - + 112 JUNIOR 39 40- 112 42 44 - + 112 HIP 21 MISSES 37- 112 38-112 39-112 41 42- 112 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 - + 112 WOMEN - 39-112 40- 112 41-112 43 44-112 46 48 50 52 - + 112 PETITE P 25-518 25-314 25-718 26 26- 118

43、 26- 114 26-318 26-112 26-518 - + 112 ENGTH 31 IEGULAR 27-518 27-314 27-718 28 28-118 28- 1/4 28-318 28- 112 28-518 28-314 28-718 29 olerance - 11 Waist. Twice the measurement taken from folded edge to folded edge across center of - + 112 TALL - 29-518 29-314 29-718 30 30-118 30- 114 30-318 30- 112

44、30-518 - + 112 waistband with the slide fastener closed and the waistband buttoned. from bottom edge of waistband. - 2/ Hip. Twice the measurement taken from folded edge to folded edge of skirt 7 inches down - 3/ Length. Measure from bottom edge of waistband at center front to bottom edge. 4. REGULA

45、TORY REOUIREMENTS. The offerorlcontractor is encouraged to use recovered materials in accordance with paragraph 23.403 of the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR) to the maximum extent practicable. 5. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS 5.1 Certification. The contractor shall certify and maintain substanti

46、ating evidence that the product offered meets the salient characteristics of this commercial item description and that the product conforms to the producers own drawings, specifications, standards and quality assurance practices. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance

47、 prior to the first delivery and thereafter as may be otherwise provided for under the provisions of the contract or purchase order. 5.2 Market acceptance criteria. The item offered, or a similar item, must have been sold to the Government or commercial market. 5.3 Visual examination. Each skirt sha

48、ll be examined for the defects listed below: Component part omitted, not as specified, not cut as specified, distorted, full, tight, or twisted, any part of skirt caught in any unrelated row of stitching; Waistband: fullness, pleats, gathers or twists on waistband or top of skirt, lining exposed on

49、outside, finished width not as specified, 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55304 9999974 0373432 ItT A-A-55304 rubberized track not as specified; Back opening at waistband: length of back closure uneven at top; Back vent: not as specified, any bulging, puckering or distortion; Pocket: pocket out of alignment from waistband, notch exposed at pocket opening, facing