DLA MIL-C-29404 B-1992 CLOTH TROPICAL POLYESTER& WOOL (KHAKI M-1)《卡其布 M-1型聚酯和羊毛热带衣服》.pdf

1、. r, - MIL-C-29404B 84 I 9999906 0574876 2 I I INCH POUNDI MIL-C-29404B 10 JUNE 1992 SUPERSEDING 31 OCTOBER 1990 MIL-C-29404A (PROPOSED) MILITARY SPECIFICATION CLOTH, TROPICAL: POLYESTER AND WOOL This specification is approved for use by the US Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available

2、for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a polyester and wool tropical cloth, washable, in top dye and piece dye fabrics. 1.2. Classification. The cloth shall be of the following types as specified (see 6

3、.2). a Type 1 Top Dye 75/25 Polyester/Wool, Khaki Shade 2122 Type II Piece Dye 80/20 Polyester Wool, Khaki Shade 2130 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Ce

4、nter, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FSSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19101-8419, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. A!SC N/A FSC 8305 - DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for publ

5、ic release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29404B 84 9999906 057Li877 4 MIL-C-29404B 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government Documents. 2.1.1 SDecifications, standards, and handbooks. The following spe

6、cifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in

7、 the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL PPP-P-1132 - Packaging and packing of Woolen, Worsted and Wool Blend (Synthetic Fiber; Cotton) Fabrics MILITARY MIL-L-35078 - Loads, Unit; Preparation of Semiperish- able Subsistence Items; Clothing, Personal Equipment and Equipage; General Specifi

8、cation for STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods MILITARY MIL-STD-129 - Marking for Shipment and Storage MIL-STD-147 - Palletized Unit Load MIL-STD-655 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Cloth, Wool, Worsted and Wool Blends (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and milita

9、ry specifications, standards and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawinss, and Dublications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form

10、a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation. 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-5 MIL-C-29404B 84 = 999990b 0.574878 b MIL-C-29404B I ,* US DEPARTME

11、NT OF AGRICULTURE Methods of Test for Grades of Wool Top (Applications for copies should be addressed to the US Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Marketing Service, Washington, DC 20402) Rules and Regulations Under the Wool Products Labeling Act 1939 US Postal Manual (Application for copies sh

12、ould be addressed to the Superintendent of Documents, US Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 29402.) 2.2 Order of Drecedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document howe

13、ver, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Standard Sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the

14、standard sample is referenced (see 6.3). * 3.2 First article. When specified, (see 6.2 and 6.4), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection, in accordance with 4.3. 3.3 Material. It is encouraged that recycled material be used when practical as long as it meets the requirements of this

15、specification. 3.3.1 Basic Material 3.3.1.1 Fiber. * 3.3.1.1.1 Wool. The stock shall be fleece or pulled wool or both, not lower in grade than 62s US. Standard for the piece dye and not lower than 64s US standard for the top dye when tested as specified in 4.4.1.1. The wool fiber shall be 3 to 3 1/2

16、 inches in length and when blended with the appropriate polyester (3 denier) shall be spun on the worsted spinning system. 3.3.1.1.2 Polvester. The stock shall be semi-dull polyester fiber made from polyethylene glycol terephthalate, either homopolymer or modified polymer as appropriate. The fiber s

17、hall be three denier and the minimum average fiber length shall be three inches when tested as specified in 4.4.1. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29404B 84 9999906 0574873 8 MIL-C-294 04B Yarns Per Inch minimum c Breaking Str

18、ength Shrinkage percent minimum (Pounds) minimum 3.3.2 Yarn. 3.3.2.1 Polvester/Wool yarn. The polyester and wool fibers shall be blended and spun on the worsted system for both warp and filling yarns. The yarns shall be singles in both warp and filling. The finished cloth shall contain the following

19、 fiber percentages, based on the oven-dry weight, when tested as specified in 4.5. a) Top dyed cloth - 75 percent polyester, 25 t 3 percent wool b) Piece dyed cloth - 80 percent polyester, 20 2 3 percent wool * 3.3.3 Color. The color of the cloth shall be Khaki Shade 2122 for type I cloth and Khaki

20、Shade 2130 for type II. The cloth shall match the standard sample (see 6.3). The type I color shall be obtained by top dying and type II color shall be obtained by piece dying. The color of the selvage shall approximate the color of the cloth. 3.3.3.1 Matchinq. The color of the finished cloth shall

21、match the standard sample for type I or type II under artificial daylight having a color temperature of 7500 degrees Kelvin and shall be a good approximation to the standard sample for type I or type II under incandescent lamplight at 2800 degrees Kelvin. 3.3.3.2 Colorfastness. The finished cloth sh

22、all show colorfastness to laundering, wet drycleaning, perspiration, light and crocking equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the finished cloth shall show ilgoodii colorfastness to laundering, wet drycleaning, perspiration, crocking and light. Testing sh

23、all be as specified in 4.5. 3.4 Desiqn and construction. 3.4.1 Physical reauirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in Table I when tested as specified in 4.5. TABLE I. Physical Requirements. Warp Filling I Warp Filling I Warp Filling I 65 59 I 100 80 I 2.5 2.5 I Pla

24、in 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29404B 84 m 9999906 0574880 4 m MIL-C-29404B 3.5 Weiaht of cloth. The weight per linear yard of the finished cloth, on a 56 inch width basis, shall be as follows: Piece dyed cloth Tors dyed c

25、loth (ounces) (ounces) Minimum Maximum Minimum Maximum 6.5 7.0 6.3 6.8 3.6 Length and Dut UD. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 50 yards, and shall be put up on full width rolls as specified in PPP-P-1132. 3.7 Width. Unless o

26、therwise specified (see 6.2), the width of the finished cloth shall be a minimum of 60 inches exclusive of selvages. 3.8 Finish. The cloth shall be scoured, heat set, sheared and decated so as to provide a finish equal to that of the standard sample for the applicable type being procured. 3.8.1 Pill

27、inq. The finished cloth shall show no more pilling than that of the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.5. 3.8.2 . The pH value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be no less than 5.5 nor more than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.5. 3.8.3 Selvases. The selvages shall be no t

28、hicker than 65 percent more than the body cloth when tested as specified in 4.5. The cloth shall lie flat when the material is laid out for cutting. 3.9 Markinq. The back of the cloth shall be marked IlBackIl at both ends of each roll with letters not less than 1/2 inch in height (see 4.4.2.3). The

29、marking shall be clearly legible in any indelible marking used commercially. 3.9.1 Wool content label. Cloth manufactured under this specification shall be labeled in accordance with the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939. 3.10 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality established

30、 by this specification. The demerit points per 100 square yards when calculated as specified in Section 4, shall not exceed the established maximum point value. Each defect shall be marked with a 1 to 1 1/2 inch long string. The string shall be sewn into the selvage near the defect. A red string sha

31、ll represent a three or four point defect and a white string shall represent a one or two point defect. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29404B 84 = 9999906 0574881 b MIL-C-29404B 4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS 4.1 Responsibil

32、ity For Inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements (examinations and tests) as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor may use his

33、 own or any other facilities suitabLe for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to ensure sup

34、plies and services conform to prescribed requirements. 4.1.1 Responsibility for compliance. All items shall meet all requirements of sections 3 and 5. The inspection set forth in this specification shall become a part of the contractors overall inspection system or quality program. The absence of an

35、y inspection requirements in the specification shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of ensuring that all products or supplies submitted to the Government for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Sampling inspection, as part of manufacturing operations, is an acc

36、eptable practice to ascertain conformance to requirements, however, this does not authorize submission of known defective material, either indicated or actual, nor does it commit the Government to accept defective material. 4.1.2 Certificate of compliance. Where certificates of compliance are submit

37、ted, the Government reserves the right to check test such items to determine the validity of the certification. 4.2 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows: 1. First article inspection (see 4.3) 2. Quality conformance inspection (see 4.4)

38、4.3 First article inspection. When required, the first article shall be visually examined for color, finish and appearance and shall be tested for chemical and physical properties in accordance with the applicable methods specified in 4.4.2. 4.4 eualitv conformance inspection. Sampling for inspectio

39、n shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-655, except where otherwise indicated. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-C-29404B 84 9799706 0574882 8 MIL-C-29404B 4.4.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1 a

40、bove, components and materials shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings, and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents. The polyester fiber shall be tested and i

41、dentified as specified in Table II. O TABLE II. Component Tests Characteristic Requirement paragraph Test methods Polyester identification 3.3.1.1.2 Length of fiber 3.3.1.1.2 Denier 3.3.1.1.2 I/ Visual L/ 4021 L/ - i/ A certificate of compliance shall be submitted and will be acceptable for the stat

42、ed requirements. 4.4.1.1 Wool. 3.3.1.1.1) in the undyed top form by comparison with Methods of Test for Grades of Top Wool. grade shall be determined by the width method (wedge). The sample unit shall be 1 yard of undyed top. The sample size (number of sample units) shall be as shown below. The lot

43、size shall be expressed in units of 1 pound. The results from each sample unit shall be reported separately. The lot shall be unacceptable if a single sample unit fails to meet the required grade. The wool shall be visually examined for grade (see In the event of a dispute, the wool 0 Lot size (yard

44、s) Sample size rolls 800 or less 801 up to and including 22,000 22,001 and over 2 3 5 4.4.1.2 In-process inspection. Inspection shall be made at any point or during any phase of the manufacturing process to assure that supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements. The Government reserves

45、 the right to exclude from consideration for acceptance any material for which the in-process inspection has indicated nonconformance. 4.4.2 Examination of the end item. Examination of the end item shall be in accordance with 4.4.2.1 through 4.4.2.5. 4.4.2.1 Yard-by-yard examination. Each roll in th

46、e sample shall be examined on the face side only. roll does not exceed 100 yards, the entire yardage in the roll shall be examined. When the total yardage in the roll exceeds 100 yards, only 100 yards shall be examined. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following: When the total yardag

47、e in the 7 I Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29404B 84 999990b 0574883 T MIL-C-29404B Lot size (vardsL Sample size rolls i/ 3200 or less 3201 up to and including 10,000 10,001 and over 8 13 20 - i/ No more than one roll shall be

48、 taken from any shipping container unless the number of shipping containers in the lot is less than the required number of rolls in which case all shipping containers shall be present in the sample. 4.4.2.2 Examination for lensth. The examination for length shall be as specified in MIL-STD-655. 4.4.

49、2.3 Examination for back markinq and compliance with the Wool Products Labelina Act. The examination for back marking and compliance with the Wool Products Labeling Act shall be as specified in MIL-STD-655. 4.4.2.4 Examination for shade and finish for individual rolls. Each roll in the lot shall be examined visually for shade match (see 3.3.3.1) and finish (see 3.8). A roll shall be unacceptable if it fails to meet the requirements for shade