DLA MIL-C-29424 A-1990 COAT MAN-S POLYESTER WOOL GABARDINE GREEN (WITH BELT)《男式绿色华达呢涤纶 羊毛大衣带》.pdf

1、 - MIL-C-29424A 84 m 9999706 0479811 3 m INCH FWND . 15 NOVEMBER 1990 SUPERSEUING . . - MIL-C-29424 (MC) . 1 Octobcr 1986 . . .- . . ._ . _- , MILITW SPE.CI?ICATIOLV . .I - . . ,. . . - ,. . cOP.T, MANS:. PC)LXESTEHne:t or by letter. DISTRIBLTIOX STTDIE?,. A. %prove5 far public release; distribution

2、 is unlirni- e ted. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29424A 4 H 999990b 0479812 5 H 2. A?PLICABU Doc:.WNJS 2.1 Govermnt. documenis. . . . _ ,. ._ . . . . 2 1.1 Specifications;:;standardc:, ;Zihd handbooks:. Ttie foll.owlng specif

3、ications, .standards, and handbooks. form -a r.L b.ais specifiqatlon .to the extent specified herein. Mess. otherwise specified-, the issue of these documents shall be th.,se listed in the issue of. the Department .of -Defens; Index of Spccifications and Standards. (WDISS) and. supplement -thereto,

4、cited in the solicitation-. (see 6.2). SPEIZIFICATIOC FEDERAL V-B-871 V-T-276 V-I-280 V4-295 V-T-3 O 1 -P-268 ccc-c-438 DDD-L-20 DDD-T-86 MILITAR: MIL-C-368 MIL-E-37 1 MIL-F-495 MIL-B-3461 MIL-C-1 O1 76 MIL-P-150 1 1 MIL-C-15062 MIL-P-15064 MILle laws and .regulations un:ess .a specific exemption ha

5、s ben e t%e specification shall govern. 3.2 - First article. Whe! specified (see 6.21, the contractor shall furnish sample unit!imrst article inspectim ad approval (see 4.4 and 6.5). 3.3 Materials . 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, polyester/wool gabar- dine, greer. shade 221

6、2 (see 6.3), conforming to type II, class 12 of MIGC-10176. 3.3.2 Lining. The material for .lining fronts, sleeves, yoke, arid vent, making the belt fastener, and facing the inside breast pocket shall be cloth, rayon, twill, green shade 2209 (see 6.3), 3.7 ounce, conforming to class I of MIM-368. 3.

7、3.3 Twill, polyester and cotton. The material for lining the upper arid lower patch pockets, inside breas: pocket, pocket stays, shoulder straps and stays for shoulder and armhole seams shall be cloth, twill, plyester and cotton amforming to type I of MIGC-43718, excepr the requirements for mfibrous

8、 Riateriai , pockets, cuffs, shoulder straps a13 turnup cf hem shall be a mnwo*en cloth, 20% nylon a13 80% polyester, pAymide paste dot, 1.25 to 1.75 ounce y. The . dyeing of the cotton warp, hair-wool filling cloth shall be accomplished with a selected direct dye and the dyed cloth shall be after t

9、reated, preferably with copper sulfate to meet the requirements specified herein. The dyed cotton warp, hair-wool filling cloth shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning, perspxation and steam pressing equal to or better than the standard sample. When 110 standard is available or has not been establ

10、ished, the dyed cotton warp, hair-wool-filling cloth shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning, perspiration afiz steam pres- Sing, The axt fronts 2 of MIGC-15065H. The flannel or felt used in the chest piece shall be the same as specified in paragraphs 3.2.4 (1) and (2) of MIGC-15065H 3.3.8 Sh

11、oulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to t= I, class 2 of MIGP-15064. 3,3.9 Sleeve head pads. The sleeve head pads shall conform to type IV of MIGP-15064. 3.3.10 Han er braid. The braid for the coat hanger shall be cotton or rayon tubular flat _4_r braid 1 8 to 3/16 inch wide, minimum breakin

12、g strength-50 pounds, color black conformirig to type IX, class 1 of MIGS-371. The cotton tape shall be 5/8-inch and 1/4 inch widths d shall canform to type I , class 1 , preshrunk of DDD-T-86 , except that the nonCi* Tous material content shall not apply. The 5/8 inch bridle tape my ke dyed black,

13、conforming to class 3 of DDD-T-86, ard shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning, In the event a standard sample has not ben established, the dye5 tape shall show gcc fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.11 Cotton tape. D 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without

14、license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29424A 84 m 9999906 0479836 2 m MIGC-29424A( Mc) 3.3.12 Polyester making button- hole in belt and belt fastener; making belt loops; bartacking ers of belt keeper IC2 A 3 Tacking amiholes an3 attaching IA1 or A230 3 sleeve. head pads - 20 4 Button sewing IA3 or Il33 As an a

15、lternate to the mtton mead, a polyester, cotton-covered thread conform- ing to MIGT-43548, ticket No. 50, 3 ply or ticket No. 70, 2 ply may ke used. The thread for basting shall be good comercial grade cotton. Nylon or aotton 0/2 may be use3 for blindstitching/felliq operation as an alternate. a 3.3

16、.13.2 Silk thread. The silk thread for machine sewing shall conform to V-T-301 as follws, except that the requirements for extractable mtter shall not apply for the type III thread. Use Type Class Ticket No. PlY Topstitching of coat arid belt, and I bartacking belt fastener to belt. A 3 Makiq button

17、holes in coat I B arid F 3 Bartacking. I B 3 Hard felling III 3 C 2 Hard or duplicatd felliq of III 3 c. 2 lining (arnihole sleeve lining) Machine felling I O 3 3.3.13.3 Ny lon thread. The nylon thread for padding lapels shall conform to type III, size O0 of V-T-295. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo

18、reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29424A 84 = 9999906 0479837 4 MIGC-29424A( MC) 3.3.13.4 for seaming lining need show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning only. (See DoD Stan! ard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). 3.3.14 Gimp. Th bu

19、ttonhole gimp shall be cotton, No. 8 soft or glazed finis1 corforming to type I or II of V-T-280. The color of the gimp shall be shade T-I cable No. 66023. The dyed gimp shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning qual i or better than the standard sample. When rm standard sample is available, tl dyed

20、 gimp shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning equal to or better than tl standard sample. When 110 sample is available, the dyed gimp shall show good fasi ness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.15 Buttons. 3.3.15.1 Insignia buttons. “he insignia buttons shall conform to type : asitio:i, glossy finish con

21、forming to type II, class Dl style 20, 34-line, and style 4, 22-line of 17-B-871. The color of the httons shall ce green, cable No. 62017. (See DaD Standard Shades for Buttons 1966). 3.3.16 Fastener, snap. The snap fastener for the belt shall be brass, black japanned finish, or black clhemical finis

22、h in accordance with MIL-F-495, round or square style, rolled edge, size 1/0 sew-an type. The snap fastener, when tested as specified in Section 4, Table IV, shall mmply with the requirements specified herein. 3.3.17 Labels. Each mat shall have an identification label, a size label and an instructio

23、n labe as follows, Tne ant is intended to be dry cleaned and the labels shall shcw fastness to dry cleaning. 3.3.17.1 Identification label. The identification lab1 shall -enform to type VI, class 1, of DDD-G20 and shall measure not less than 2-1/2 inches wide by 1-1/2 inches long. The content ad for

24、mat shall be as follows: Namenclature ( item description) Contract Naher Narrie of contractor Wal Prducts Act information Dry Clean Only NE: Size of characters for “Name of contrictor“ shall be minimum 8 pints (Approximately 3/32 inch). 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking pe

25、rmitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-C-29424A 84 W 99999Ob 04798L b W 3.3.17.2 Size lek The size label shall be type VI, class 2 of mD-L-2G and shall measure not les than ,1-1/2 inches by 1 inch. The label shall oonsist of the numerical size designation specified in 1.2 followed by the letters

26、S, R, L or XL for Short, 3/4-inch allowance for side seams; 5/8-inch allowance for center back seam; and 3/Ez-inch allowance for a11 other seams except as otherwise specified in Table I. Standard patterns show size, seam 2: lowances, directional lines for cutting, and are marked or notched for prope

27、r ;Lacement ad assembly of the component parts. 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. mats shall be cut from the materials spcilie- herein in accordance with t- nmber of pattern parts indicated below: I tem Pattern Nmenclature No. of cut parts Material: Polyester and Wool 1. 2. 3. 4; 5. 6; 7. 8. 9. 1 o. 11.

28、Front (upper) Skirt (lomr front) Back Side body Front facing, right Front facing, left Top ?leeve Under sleeve Sleeve cuff Tbp mllar Shoulder strap 8 2 2 2 2 1 1 2 2 2 1 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-27424A 84 7999906 047981

29、i9 8 = Pattern Nomenclature No. of cut parts Material: Polyester and Wool (contd) .11. . -. . Shoulder strap 2 12. Pocket, uppr 2 . Pokket, lower 2 13. - - Pocket flp, uppsr 2 2 14 0 15. 16. Belt 1 17. Belt iininq 1 BItem . . . Pock- -lower MIGC-29424A( MC) 18. - - ?innhole shield (me piece) 2 . Ela

30、terial: Cloth; Rayon Lining 19. Front 2 20. Back yoke 1 21. Top sleeve 2 22. Under sleeve 2 23. Back vent lining 1 Inside-breast pocket facing 1 24. 25. Pocket flap, upper 2 26. Pocket flap, lower 2 Materid: Cloth, Polyester and Cotton Twill 27. Inside breast pocket 1 28. Inside breast pocket stay 1

31、 29 Stay, upper pocket 2 30. Stay, lower pocket 2 31. Breast pocket, upper 2 32. Wsr pockets 2 Material: Cloth, Cotton Interlining 33. coilar interlining 1 or 2 Material: Cloth, Wool, Flwel, Undercollar 34. Undercollar 1 or 2 Shapers 35. 36. 37. 36. 39. 40 41. 42. Left front shapr Wmking lapel shape

32、r Undercollar sha-pr Finish but when so cut, the parts shall ham- nize with the shade of the mat. Belt Imps and belt. keeper may be banded 1 inch wide, and belt lining may be cut frbm a banding machine 2-1/4 inches wide. When armhole shields are cut frm ends, the shields shall match each other. d. C

33、ut fronts, yoke and vent lin- ing parts of the coat and facing for inside pocket rm one piece of rayon lining material. All other rayon lining parts may be cut from ends. When pairS.of sleeve linings are cut frm ends, the shade of the lininqs shall match each other. The belt fastener shall be cut 1-

34、5/8 inches wide. Bias binding shall be cut 5/8 to 7/8 inch wide, e, Ihe tsm parts of the under- collar cut from undercollar mater- ial shall match each other, or cut the undercollar material in one piece in lieu of tim parts. f. Cut polyester and cotton twill cloth stays for armhole and should- er s

35、eams on the bias, 3/4 inch wide, 4 + 1/4 inches long for front shoulder-and armhole edge. Cut polyester and cotton twill cloth for inside pocket and the stays for upper arid lo-r pockets and inside STCH TYPE SEAM/ STCH TYPE - STCH/ IN NDL BOB/ LPR 11 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or n

36、etworking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29424A 84 m 777770b 0477822 m NO - 1. 2. 3. MIL-C-29424A(MC). TABLE I on. ,the , straight in -.accrd,arke, .EM/ ;TCH PE STCHI IN NDL Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-27424A 4

37、 m 777770b 0477823 T m 40 5 TABLE I WZ3ACTRING REQUIREMENTS OPERATI ON shade marking. (contd) be marked, bundled or ticketed to insure uniform shade and size thmughout the garment. b. The use of tickets with any metal fastening devices or sew-on shade tickets is prohibited on the rayon lining. Make

38、belt loops, and- keeper. Finished ap,Dearance. !the belt loop and keeper shall be uniformly stitched, uniform in width and shall finish smooth and flat with- out pleats, gathers, puckers or other distortion. a. The belt loops and keeper shall be made from a I-inch-wide strip of basic material. bo Fo

39、ld the sides of the strip lengthwise towards the center, abutting the rat: edges, and join the raw edges together with a coverinq stitch, to finish 1/2 inch wide. The stitchingshall be uni- formly 1/8 inch from finished edges of the loopc ar keeper. c. Cut the loop for the left and riaht sies of the

40、 coat 5-1/2 inch- es and 3-1/2 inches long, respect- ively. d. Cut the keeper 4-1/2 inches long, fold in half end to end, and join the ends with a bartack across the width of the keeper. The fin- ishd keeper shall measure 2-1/8 + 1/8 inches from bartack to folda end. Make belt fastener (see Figure 5

41、). Finished appearance. !lhe bdt fas- tener shall be uniformly stitched, uniform in width and shall finish smooth and fiat and without pleats, S TCH TYPE - 406 Bar- tack SM/ CTCH TYPE Fb- 1 STCH/ IN 10-14 28 per bartac (mini- mum) NDL A A A BOB/ LPR - A A A 13 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reprodu

42、ction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29424A 84 9999906 0479824 L MIL-C-29424A(MC) TABLE I W2YFACTURING REQUIREMENTS OPERATION Make belt fastener (see Figure 5). (contd) qzthers, pc*ckers or .,her distor- ion. n-ie buttonhole shall be clean cut, well made and correctl. pos

43、itioned. The buttonhole shall be thestraiqht type and shall be made to fit a 22-line sewing hole button. n-ie purling of the button- hole shall be on the outside of the fastener and ends of the buttonhole shall be securely tacked, a. %e belt fastener shall be made from 1-5/8-inch-wide strip of rayon

44、 1 ining material. b. Fold the strip in half length- wise, turn in raw edges, and stitch 1/8 inch from each side, catching the turned edges in the stitching, to form a 1/2-t0 5/8- inch wide band. Cut the fastener 6-1/2 inches long. c. nirn under one end of the fas- tener 1-1/2 inches and make a bri-

45、 zontal straight type buttonhole, cut 5/8 inch long, through all plies in the center of the turned under prtion, securely tacking each end of buttonhole. Seam belt (see Figure 5). Finished appararice. The belt shall be uniformly stitched and shall finish smooth and flat with- out twists, pleats, gat

46、hers, pck- ers, or raw eases. a. n-ie belt shall be made of tw plies of thwise at the pint with wrong side out. Tack :he point 1/8 inch fror. the raw 2dges. nirn cuffs , completely mrking out the point. 1. Turn under the upper edge of :he cuff, forming the finished :uwed edge in accordance with the

47、:hap of the pattern. Press smooth ind flat with a heated pressing iron or. pressing machine, creasing :he ege. 2. in lieu of pressing, the turn inder at upper edge of cu2fs may be lasted. i. Mark the sleeves in accordance rith the sleeve cuff marker for mitioning the cuffs, with notch )n the pattern

48、 matching the forearn :eam line and with the lower edge If the sleeve and marker even. STCH TYTE 301 or 401 30 1 1 o1 or Hand SEAM/ STCH TYPE - SSa- SSa- SSa-1 STCH/ IN 10-14 10-14 10-14 - NDL A A A - BOB/ LPR A A A ia1 27 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without

49、license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29424A 4 = 9999706 0479838 I - NO - 20. 21 . 22. 23, MILlests and shall start and finish wenly. 9. Join the top sleeve to the Indersleeve at the backarm with a 3/8-inch seam, catching the ends of che cuff in the seam 3. Spread open the sleeve and cuff seams and press flat with a heated pressi