DLA MIL-C-29453 B-1994 COAT WOMAN-S POLYESTER WOOL GABARDINE BLUE《女式蓝色华达呢涤纶 羊毛大衣》.pdf

1、MIL-C-29453B SUPERSEDING MIL-C-29453A (MC) O9 October 1990 3 October 1994 MILITARY SPECIFICATION COAT, WOMANS: POLYESTER/WOOL; GABARDINE, BLUE This specification is approved for use by all departments and agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 ScoDe. This specification gabardine coats.

2、1.2 Classification. The coats following sizes as specified (see covers requirements for womens blue shall be of one type in the 6.2): Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Pers

3、onnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FQSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19145-5099, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. I AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. A

4、pproved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-294538 = 9999906 1991955 994 MIL-C-29453B Schedule of sizes Short xo 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Resular xo 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Lonq xo 2 4 6 8

5、 10 12 14 16 18 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents 2.1.1 Specifications. standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, Standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issue of the Department of Defense Inde

6、x of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-5 O O 67 A-A-5018 6 A-A- 5 O 19 6 A-A-5 O 19 8 A-A-5 O 19 9 A-A- 5 2 O 9 4 A-A-52 106 V-T-295 DDD-L-20 DDD-T-86 Cloth, Flannel, Wool Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven Thread, Silk

7、 Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered Thread, Cotton Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester or Polyester Blend Thread, Nylon Label, For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached or Dyed)

8、 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MILITARY MIL-C-368 MIL-B-371 MIL-B-3461 MIL-C-10176 MIL-P-15064 MIL-(2-15065 MIL-(2-16375 MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-29405 MIL-C-44192 MIL-C-44296 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-12

9、9 MIL-STD-147 MIL-STD-731 MIL-STD-984 MIL-STD-1608 Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon Braid, Textile, Tubular Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap Cloth, Gabardine, Wool, Polyester and Wool Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve Head Coat Fronts Cloth, Wigan, Cotton Box, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modula

10、r Sizes) Cloth, Broadcloth, Wool, and Wool/Nylon Container, Shipping and Storage, Coat (Hanger Pack) Cloth, Fusibles Textile Test Methods Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings Marking for Shipment and Storage Palletized Unit Loads Quality of Wood Members for Containers and Pallets Provisions for Size Labe

11、ling of Womens Uni.f orm Clothing Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Womens, Dress (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of Federal and military specifications, standards and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 1

12、9111-5094). (Copies of specifications, standards and publications required by contractors in connection with specific acquisition functions should be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting officer). 2.2 Non-Government Dublications. The following document(s) form a p

13、art of this specification to the extent specified herein. otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD-adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS shall be the issue

14、s of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Unless 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29453B 9999906 3993957 767 m MIL-C-29453B AMERICAN SOCIETY OF TESTING AND MATERIALS ASTM D 3951 - Standard Practice for Commercial

15、Packaging Testing Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103). (Application for copies should be addressed to American Society for (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also ma

16、y be available in or through libraries or other informational services). 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document shall take precedence. however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless

17、a specific exemption has been obtained. Nothing in this document, 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.4 and 6.4). 3.2 Materials 3.2.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be clot

18、h, gabardine, polyester/wool, dark blue shade 2312 (see 6.3), 10.6 ounce, conforming to type II, class 12 of MIL-C-10176. 3.2.2 Lininq. The material for lining the coats shall be cloth, rayon, twill, black shade 2604 (see 6.3), 3.7 ounce, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.2.3 Polyester twill. Th

19、e material for the simulated breast pocket stays, armhole and shoulder seams of the coat shall be cloth conforming to class 20f A-A-52106, except the colorfastness requirements for crocking and perspiration shall not apply. 3.2.4 Undercollar material. The undercollar material shall be cloth, wool fl

20、annel, black (see 6.3), conforming to A-A-50067. 3.2.5 PiDinq. The material for the underply of shoulder straps and piping for the collar and ornamental sleeve pieces shall be cloth, broadcloth, wool, scarlet shade 2501 (see 6.3), conforming to type I or type II of MIL-C-29405. 3.2.6 Collar interlin

21、inq. The material for interlining the collar shall be cloth, cotton, buckram, natural color, conforming to type I of A-A-50186, except that the test for shrinkage shall be in accordance with method 5580 of FED-STD-191. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without li

22、cense from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29453B 3.2.7 Coat fronts. The coat fronts shall conform to type XII1 of MIL-C-15065. 3.2.8 Fusible interlininss 3.2.8.1 Fusible interlininss for small parts. The fusible for the collar ends, sleeve device, top ply of shoulder strap, full front facing, and top pocket welt sha

23、ll be nonwoven cloth conforming to type V, class 1, style B of MIL-C-44296. The color shall be black or charcoal. The fusible shall be Pellon 8313, Handler 7208 or equal. Fusing conditions shall be as directed by the supplier or temperature 280- 290F, 140- 145OCE, time 12-15 seconds, pressure 4.6 PS

24、I. 3.2.8.2 Fusible coat fronts (alternate). The coat front may be fused using a twill weave woven fusible conforming to type II, class 1, style B of MIL-C-44296 or 100 percent cotton warp, 75-90 percent rayon, 10-25 percent wool, weight minimum 3.5 to 4.0 ounces maximum, polyamide dot, color black o

25、r charcoal. The fusible shall be Kufner Style G35 or National Style 200FL or Crown Style 241 or equal. The fusing conditions shall be as directed by the supplier or as follows: 300- 310F, 150- 155OCE temperature, 12-15 seconds time, 4-5 PSI pressure. 3.2.9 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conf

26、orm to type III, class 1 of MIL-P-15064. 3.2.10 Sleeve head pads. The sleeve head pads shall conform to type IV of MIL-P-15064. 3.2.11 Tape. cotton. The cotton tape shall conform to type III, class 1 of DDD-T-86, l/l-inch wide for reinforcing the folded edge of the simulated pocket welt and armholes

27、 and 3/8-inch wide for the front edge of the coat and the bridle tape. 3.2.12 Bias bindinq. bias cut out of the lining material specified in 3.2.2. shall be cut 5/8 to 7/8 inch wide and shall have sized edges. The binding for the underarm shields shall be The binding 3.2.13 Wisan. The material for r

28、einforcing the bottom edge of the sleeves shall be cloth, cotton, wigan, 2.5 ounces, conforming to type I of MIL-C-16375. 3.2.14 Hanser braid. The braid for the coat hanger shall be cotton or rayon tubular flat braid 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide, minimum breaking strength 50 pounds, color black conforming

29、to type IX, class 1 of MIL-B-371. 3.2.15 Thread 3.3.15.1 Silk. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196; machine sewing, type I, size A, 3-ply for all outside seaming and stitching; machine felling, size O, 3 ply and hand sewing, type III, size A. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or

30、networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29453B W 9999906 l199L959 53T W MIL-C-29453B 3.2.15.2 Cotton. The cotton thread shall conform to A-A-52094, type III, mercerized finish, ticket No. A, 3-ply for all inside seaming and stitching; type II, glazed finish, ticket No. 24, 4-ply for

31、sewing on buttons and type I, ticket No. 30, 3-ply for machine tacking armholes. grade. As an alternate, a polyester core, cotton-covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 50, 2-ply or ticket No. 70, 2-ply may be used. The thread for basting shall be a good commercial 3.2.15.3 Nylon. The ny

32、lon thread for padding lapels of coats shall conform to type III, size O0 of V-T-295. 3.2.15.4 Synthetic. A monofilament synthetic thread may be used for those basting operations where the thread is required to be removed, provided the garment is subsequently given a treatment by a dry cleaning agen

33、t in which the synthetic thread is soluble. this thread is used, any residue remaining on the garment after the dry cleaning process shall be brushed off or removed. When 3.2.15.5 Color and colorfastness. All thread shall be black AA Cable No. 66043 (See DoD Standard Shades for Sewing Threads), exce

34、pt cotton thread for basting and for machine tacking armholes, which may be white. applicable thread specification, shall show good colorfastness to wet (dry) cleaning. In addition, the silk thread shall show good colorfastness to light. The colored threads, when tested as specified in the 3.2.16 Gi

35、mp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be black AA Cable No. 66043 showing good colorfastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.2.17 Insisnia buttons and rins fasteners. The insignia buttons for coats shall b

36、e metal, gold-plated, 27-line and 40-line, conforming to MIL-B-3461, type I, style 3, class A, subclass 1. Ring fasteners for attaching buttons to ornamental sleeve pieces shall conform to MIL-B-3461. 3.2.18 Labels. Each coat shall have an identification label and a size label as follows. the labels

37、 shall show colorfastness to dry cleaning. conform to type VI, class 1 of DDD-L-20. The content and format shall be as follows: The coats are intended to be dry cleaned and 3.2.18.1 Identification label. The identification label shall Dry clean only Nomenclature (item description) Contract number Na

38、me of contractor Fiber content 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- - _ - MIL-C-29453B m 9979906 3993960 253 m MIL-C-29453B 3.2.18.2 Size label. The size label shall conform to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The inscription on the size l

39、abel shall conform to MIL-STD-984; Table II Body Dimensions for U. S. Marine Corps, Table III Height Ranges and Figure 2. Example as follows: Stock Number: 8410-00-000-0000 Bust Circ: 35 inches Hip Circ: 37-1/2 inches Height : 63-1/2 to 67-1/2 (R) inches (Size Code 12) 3.2.18.3 Label/taq. Each item

40、shall be individually bar-coded with the type VIII, class 17 label/tag of DDD-L-20. This label/tag shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and so that it causes no damage to the item. 3.3 Desisn. The coats shall be the U. S. Marine

41、 Corps design shown in Figures 1 and 2, a four-button, single-breasted, semi-formfitting, fully-lined coat having a panel-type front, a four-piece back with center vent, an outside simulated breast pocket with outside welt, an inside pocket, shoulder straps to button, ornamental sleeve piece at bott

42、om of sleeve, a worked eyelet in each collar end, and a notched collar and lapels. The collar, shoulder straps and ornamental sleeve pieces shall be piped with scarlet wool broadcloth. 3.4 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall

43、not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working pattern. 3/16-inch allowance for seams at top (step) and front edges of lapels and front edges of coat; 1/8-inch allowance for shoulder straps and collar; 3/4-inch allowance for side seams; 5/8-inch allow

44、ance for center back seaming; and 3/8-inch allowance for all other seams. Standard patterns show size, seam allowances, warp directional lines for cutting, and are marked or notched for proper cutting, placement and assembly of the component parts. Also, minor modifications are permitted where neces

45、sary when using automatic equipment. modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in the specification. The standard patterns shall provide These 3.4.1 List of pattern parts. Coats shall be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance with

46、the number of pattern parts indicated below: 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29453B 9999906 L99L9bL 198 MIL-C-29453B TABLE 1. Pattern parts Item Pattern Nomenclature No. of cut parts Material: Cloth, Wool, Gabardine 1. Front 2

47、 2. Side front 2 3. Side back 2 4. Center back 2 5. Front facing (right) 1 6. Front facing (left) 1 7. Top sleeve 2 8. Under sleeve 2 9. Top collar 1 10. Top collarstand 1 11. Ornamental sleeve pieces 2 12. Pocket welt 1 13. Shoulder strap (top ply) 2 14. Underarm shield 2 15. Front 2 16. Right cent

48、er back 1 17. Left center back 1 18. Side back 2 19. Top sleeve 2 20. Under sleeve 2 21. Undercollar 1 22. Undercollar interlining 1 23. Sleeve bottom reinforcement 2 Material: Cloth, Rayon Linins Material: Cloth, Wool Flannel Material: Cloth, Buckram, Cotton Material: Cloth, Cotton, Wigan Material:

49、 Cloth, Polyester Twill 24. Breast Welt, Pocket Stay 1 25. Inside Pocket 2 Material: Cloth. Broadcloth, Wool Scarlet Marker 26. Shoulder strap (under DY) 2 27. Sleeve turnup and ornamental sleeve 28. Breast pocket welt 29. Collarstand 30. Risht Front 31. Top Collar (shaper) 32. Lapel shaper (working) 33. Undercollar (shaper) 34. Finished Collar and lapel (shaper) 35. Left vent (shaper) Shaper 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo repro