DLA MIL-C-29628-1991 COAT WOMAN-S BLUE DRESS《女式蓝色外衣》.pdf

1、I MIL-C-29628 84 W 999990b 0488784 5 W Body type Length Juniors - J Petite (Short) - P Misses - No designation Womens - W Tall (Long) - T Regular - R MIL-C-29628(NU) 2 July 1991 MILITARY SPECIFICATION COAT, WOMANS, BLUE, DRESS This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile R

2、esearch Facility, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a womans blue, single breasted, fused dress coat with body types and lengths. 1.2 Classification. The co

3、at shall be of one type only in the following sizes (body types and lengths)(see 6.2). 1.2.1 Sizes. Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent .data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile

4、Research Facility, Post Office Box 59, Natick, MA 01760-0001 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 L DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release, distribution is unlimit

5、ed. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-Petite (P) 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 MIL-C-29628 84 m.9999906 0488785 7 m MIL-C-29628(NU) Schedule of sizes MISSES Regular (R) 4 =6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 Tall (T) 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 WOMENS Regular

6、(R) Tall (T) Petite (P) 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 JUNIORS Petite (P) Regular (R) Tall (T) 10 12 14 16 10 12 14 16 10 12 14 16 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and

7、handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see

8、6.2). 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL C-F-206 V-T- 2 7 6 V-T-280 V-T-295 V-T-301 NN-P-71 DDD-L-20 DDD-T-86 -i MILITARY i MIL-C-368 MIL-B-371 MIL-B-3461 MIL-P-15011 MIL-P-15064 MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-21115 MIL-T-435

9、48 MIL-C-43718 MIL-C-44121 MIL-C-44192 MIL-C-44296 MIL-C-27628 4 9999906 0488786 7 , STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-147 MIL-STD-1608 MIL-STD-2073-1 MIL-STD-2073-2 - Felt Sheet, Cloth, Felt, Wool, Pressed - Thread, Cotton - Thread, Cotton, Gimp, But

10、tonhole - Thread, Nylon - Thread, Silk - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer - Label, For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Construction, 2-Way and 4-Way (Partial) Use) Bleached or Dyed) - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon

11、- Braid, Textile, Tubular - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Post Construction, - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-head - Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Tropical, Wool, Polyester/Wool - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton-, Rayon-, or - Cloth, Pol

12、yester; Polyester and Cotton; Polyester - Cloth, Twill, Polyester - Container, Shipping and Storage, Coat (Hanger Pack) - Cloth, Fusibles 4-Way Entry Polyester-Covered and Rayon, For Pockets - Textile Test Methods - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by -

13、 Marking for Shipment and Storage - Palletized Unit Loads - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Womens, Dress - DOD Materials Procedures for Development and Application of Packaging Requirements - Packaging Requirement Codes Attributes 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networ

14、king permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29628 4 9999906 0488787 O MIL-C-29628(NU) (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Building 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia,

15、 PA 19111-5094.) 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation. U.S. POSTAL MAN

16、UAL (Application for copies should be addressed to the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402-0001). CODE OF FEDERAL REGULATIONS Title 9 - Animal and Animal Products Part 95 - Sanitary Control of Animal By-products (Copies of the Code of Federal Regulation

17、s (CFR) and the Federal Register (FR) are for sale on a subscription basis by the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402-0001). 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless o

18、therwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DOD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation, Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). NATIONAL

19、 MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking Association, ATTN: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036-1404). UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight C

20、lassification (Application for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606-5808). THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Threads (Applications for copies should

21、be addressed to The Color Association of the United States, 343 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016-0927). 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-t I L i L I : t MIL-C-29b28 84 999990b 0488788 2 MIL-C-29628(NU) I 1 I (Non-Government stand

22、ards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.) l 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document

23、and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information

24、 to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2). 3.3 Material. 3.3.1 Bas

25、ic material. The basic material for the coat shall be a 10 ounce polyester/wool blend tropical in shade Blue 3346, conforming to type III, class 3 of MIL-C-21115. The piece number for the standard sample is 4001369. 3.3.2 Lining. The material for lining the body and sleeves shall be a rayon twill, 3

26、.7 ounce, shade Black 3202, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. The piece number for the standard sample is 79221. As an alternate, the lining may be polyester twill cloth, Black 3202, conforming to MIL-C-44121. The piece number for the standard sample is 87034. 3.3.3 Interlining, fusible. 3.3.3.1 F

27、ronts. The material for interlining the coat fronts shall be a fusible conforming to type II, class 1, style B of MIL-C-44296, except the minimum dots per inch shall be 209 or type VIII, class 1 of MIL-C-44296, except the weight shall be 2.1 oz/yd (+ 0.5 oz) and the minimum dots per inch shall be 20

28、0. The color shall be Black. 3.3.3.2 Small parts. The material for interlining the lapel facing, topcollar, undercollar, top sleeves and undersleeves shall be a fusible conforming to type V, class 1, style A or B of MIL-C-44296, The color shall be Black. 3.3.3.3 Fused state bonding strength. The sma

29、ll parts and fronts fusible material for preproduction and in-process testing shall meet an initial minimum bonding strength requirement in the warp (machine) direction of 32 ounces per inch or splits prior to drycleaning when tested as specified in Table V, and minimum 24 ounces per inch or splits

30、in the warp (machine) direction after three drycleanings and pressings when tested as specified in 4.4.3.1. Additionally the small parts fusible interlining will be accepted if it either begins to debond from the outer shell material, equivalent to the minimum bond strength or higher, and then split

31、s from itself or if the small parts fusible readily splits from itself at a minimum tear strength of 6.0 ounces per inch. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-27628 4 7779906 0488789 4 3.3.3.4 Colorfastness. All dyed finished fusib

32、le interlining materials shall show a fastness to drycleaning as specified in MIL-C-44296. As a limit of acceptability or when no standard sample is available, the finished fusible materials shall show “fair1 colorfastness to drycleaning. 3.3.3.5 Shrinkage. The interlining, after fusing to the basic

33、 cloth as specified in 3.3.3.6, shall not exceed 1.5 percent differential shrinkage when tested as specified in 4.4.3.1. Additionally, the interlining after fusing to the basic cloth as specified in 3.3.3.6 shall not exceed 2.0 percent shrinkage after drycleaning when tested as required in 4.4.3.1.

34、All drycleaned materials shall not exhibit any sign of bubbling, puckering or delamination. 3.3.3.6 Fusing press operating procedure and conditions. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material on a dry electrically heated conveyor type fusing press which

35、has the capacity of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature for a minimum of 8 hours. Pair or sandwich fusing which can create differential shrinkage, stitching and uneven bonding shall not be permitted. For optimum results, the fusible material manufacturers recommendations

36、for fusing dwell time, pressure, and temperature, based upon the fusing equipment used and basic material being fused, shall be utilized. Basic preproduction and production maintenance procedures, including a fusing press information chart, shall be required to assure proper fusing press performance

37、 relative to temperature control, evenness in pressure head or roller contact, dwell time and cleanliness. Results of the production maintenance procedures shall be recorded on Figure 2. 3.3.4 Floating chest piece assembly. 3.3.4.1 Haircloth, synthetic. The synthetic haircloth for the chest piece sh

38、all have warp yarns made from 100 percent cotton, 100 percent polyester, any combination of polyester and cotton, or from 45 to 100 percent polyester with the remaining percentage rayon. The filling yarns shall be made from 100 percent nylon monofilament. The fabric shall contain not less than 50 en

39、ds and 42 picks per inch, and shall weigh not less than 5.6 ounces per square yard as specified in 4.4.1. The stiffness of the nylon filling shall be 0.13 (+ 0.01) load pounds as specified in 4.4.1. As an alternate, chest piece may be 2-ply cotton warp and natural horsehair filling cloth, undyed, ha

40、ving not less than 60 ends and 40 picks per inch, weighing not less than 4.5 ounces per square yard, and containing no sizing when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The horsehair shall meet current Quarantine Laws and pertinent regulations of the U.S. Department of Agriculture as set forth in the Code o

41、f Federal Regulations. 3.3.4.2 Felt cloth. The felt piece for padding the chest shall be pressed wool conforming to type III (roll-felt), classification 11A2 of C-F-206, 3.3.4.3 Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching the floating chest piece assembly shall be cotton, soft finish, type IA1 or t

42、ype IA2, shade White AH, C.A. 66050 in accordance with the Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Threads, ticket No. 50 or 70, 2-ply, conforming to V-T-276. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29b28 84 m 79777Ob 0488770

43、 O m Pocketing. The material for the inside pocket and inside pocket stay shall be a twill cloth conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43718. The shade shall be black and requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply. As an alternate for the inside pocket, the material may be a rayon twill or

44、polyester twill as specified in 3.3.2. 3.3.6 Shoulder and sleeve-head pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to type III, class 1 and the sleeve-head pads shall conform to type IV of MIL-P-15064, except that the length shall be 12 to 13 inches. 3,3.7 Tapes. 3.3.7.1 Woven tape. The tape for staying th

45、e coat shall be preshrunk cotton, dyed or undyed, conforming to type I and II, and class 1, 2, or 3 of DDD-T-86. The types and widths of the tapes shall be as follows: Type I Type II - 3/16 inch wide stay for staying lower front and back armholes - 3/4 inch wide stay for bridle at breakline of lapel

46、 3.3.7.2 Cross-cut tape. The tape for staying the front gorge, shoulder, top armhole (front and back), and back neck shall be dyed or undyed twill cloth conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43718. The tape shall be cut across the width of the cloth in strips 1/2 (+ 1/16) inch wide. The raw edges of the cr

47、oss-cut tape shall be treated wiFh a synthetic resin to prevent ravelling (see 4.4.1). 3.3.7.3 Tape fusible. The tape for joining the fronts and facing shall be a natural color woven or non-woven tape with a thermoplastic polyamide resin. The tape shall be 5/8 inch wide (see 4.4.1). As an alternate,

48、 cross-cut tape may be used (see 3.3.7.2). 3.3.8 Hanger loop. The hanger loop shall be cotton tubular braid conforming to type III, class 1 of MIL-B-371, or shall be of the material specified in 3.3.2. The braid shall be dyed black and show good colorfastness to crocking and wet-dry cleaning (see 4.

49、4.1). 3.3.9 Threads. 3.3.9.1 Polyester core. The thread used for seaming and stitching shall be a polyester core thread conforming to MIL-T-43548, A polyester-covered, polyester core thread is not allowed. The thread shall be dyed shade Black AA, Cable No. 66043 in accordance with the Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Threads, in the following sizes except when the use of silk or nylon is indicated as an alternate in Table I: Operation Tic