DLA MIL-DTL-10176 K-2005 CLOTH GABARDINE WOOL POLYESTER AND WOOL《涤纶和羊毛 羊毛华达呢布》.pdf

1、 MIL-DTL-10176K 20 May 2005 _ SUPERSEDING MIL-C-10176J 6 January 1989 DETAIL SPECIFICATION CLOTH, GABARDINE: WOOL, POLYESTER AND WOOL This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers wool, polyester and

2、 wool gabardine cloths. 1.2 Classification. The cloth should be of the following types and classes as specified in 6.2. Type I - Wool Class 3 - 7.0 ounce (see 6.8) Class 5 - 9.3 ounce (see 6.8) Class 7 - 10.3 ounce (see 6.8) Class 8 - 8.35 ounce (see 6.8) Type II - Polyester and wool blend Class 1 -

3、 6.75 ounce (see 6.8) Class 8 - 6.0 ounce (see 6.8) Class 9 - 6.95 ounce (see 6.8) Class 10 - 8.35 ounce (see 6.8) Class 11 - 7.2 ounce (see 6.8) Class 12 - 6.8 ounce (see 6.8) Class 13 - 6.8 ounce, Water Repellent Treated (see 6.8) Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addr

4、essed to: Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DSCP-CRDD, (Bldg 6D), 700 Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5092 or emailed to bernice.klucznikdla.mil. Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information usin

5、g Acquisition Streamlining and Standardization Information System (ASSIST) Online database at www.assist.daps.dla.mil. AMSC/NA FSC 8305 INCH-POUNDProvided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-10176K 22. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 General. The

6、 documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4, or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of

7、 this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3, 4, or 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. 2.2 Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications. standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards,

8、and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2). DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS MIL-C-43665 - Cloth, Wool: Mothproofing Treatment of DEPARTMENT OF DEFE

9、NSE STANDARDS MIL-STD-655 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Cloth, Wool, Worsted and Wool Blends (Copies of these documents are available online at http:/assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-509

10、4.) 2.2.2 Other Government documents. The following other Government documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract. FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION Rules and Regulations Under

11、the Wool Products Labeling (Copies are available online at www.ftc.gov or from the Federal Trade Commission, 600 Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W., Washington, DC 20580-0001.) Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-10176K 3U.S. DEPARTMENT OF

12、 AGRICULTURE Methods of Test for Grades of Wool Top (Copies are available online at www.usda.gov or from the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Marketing Service, Washington, DC 20402.) (Copies of documents required by contractors in connection with specific acquisition functions should be

13、 obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting activity.) 2.3 Non-Government standards and other publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents are those cited in th

14、e solicitation or contract (see 6.2). AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC) AATCC 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 16 - Colorfastness to Light AATCC 20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC 22 - Water Repel

15、lency: Spray Test AATCC 81 - pH of the Water Extract from Wet Processing Textiles AATCC 99 - Dimensional Change on Woven or Knitted Textiles: Relaxation, Consolidation and Felting AATCC 132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning AATCC 158 - Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroethylene: Machine Me

16、thod AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles (Copies of documents are availa

17、ble on line at www.aatcc.org or from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.) ASTM INTERNATIONAL ASTM-D3511 - Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surfaces Changes Fabrics Brush Pilling Tester Method ASTM-D-3775 - Fabric Coun

18、t of Woven Fabric ASTM-D-3776 - Mass per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM-D-5034 - Breaking Force and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) (Copies of documents are available on line at www.astm.org or from the ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19426-2959.) Provid

19、ed by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-10176K 4AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY ANSI/ASCQ Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes (Copies of documents are available on line at www.asq.org or from the American Society f

20、or Quality, 600 Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.) 2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations un

21、less a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 4.2). 3.2 Standard sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance and shall be equal to or bette

22、r than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.4). 3.3 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided

23、 that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs. 3.4 Material. 3.4.1 Stock. 3.4.1.1 Grade. The wool for the cloth shall be not lower in grade than the U.S. Standard grades specified below for the applicable cla

24、ss, when tested as specified in 4.3.1.1. Classes 1, 3 and 7 - 62s U.S. Standard Classes 5, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 and 13 - 64s U.S. Standard 3.4.1.2 Wool. The wool top for Type I cloth shall be fleece or pulled wool, or both, not lower in grade than that specified for the applicable class (see 1.2 and 3.4

25、.1.1). The use of wool top made from laps, noils, or any other wool manufacturing by-products is prohibited (see 4.3.2). Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-10176K 53.4.1.3 Polyester. The polyester fiber shall be semi-dull polyest

26、er fiber made from polyethylene glycol terephthalate either homopolymer or modified polymer as appropriate. The minimum average fiber length shall be 3 inches and shall be a suitable denier to blend adequately with the specified wool grade. The use of polyester fiber waste is prohibited. Testing sha

27、ll be as specified in 4.3.4. 3.4.2 Yarn. 3.4.2.1 Wool yarn for Type I cloth. The wool shall be spun from combed top on either the Bradford, French or American system. The yarn shall be spun into 2-ply and shall contain not less than 95 percent wool based on the dry weight of the specimen when tested

28、 as specified in 4.3.4. 3.4.2.2 Polyester/wool blend yarn for Type II cloth. The polyester fiber and wool fiber shall be blended and spun into 2-ply for both the warp and filling. The use of wool top produced from laps, noils, or any other wool manufacturing by-product is prohibited. The finished cl

29、oth shall consist of the following fiber percentages based on dry weight of the specimen when tested as specified in 4.3.4. Percentage Fiber Minimum Maximum Polyester 55 60 Wool 40 - 3.5 Color. The color shall be as specified (see 6.2) and shall match the standard sample. The color for Type I cloth

30、shall be obtained by blending stock or top dyed wools; the color for Type II cloth shall be obtained by blending top dyed wool with stock, top, or tow dyed polyester fibers, with the wool and polyester fibers dyed separately and then blended. 3.5.1 Mothproofing. Mothproofing of the wool material, in

31、 accordance with MIL-C-43665, shall be accomplished during stock or top dyeing as applicable. 3.5.2 Visual shade matching (all types and classes). The color and shade of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, under filtered tungst

32、en lamps that approximate artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 200 K, with illumination of 100 + 20 foot candles and shall be a good match to the standard sample under horizon lamplight at 2300 200 K. 3.5.3 Colorfastness (all types and classes). The finished cloth shal

33、l conform to the colorfastness requirements in below in Table I when tested as specified in 4.3.4. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-10176K 6TABLE I. Colorfastness requirements (all types and classes) Colors Evaluation Light (40

34、 hrs or 170 KJ) 2/ (min.) Wet Dry-cleaning (1 cycle) 1/ (min.) Perspiration (acid ounces per linear yard based on 56 inch width in revision “J” have been converted to ounces per square yard (oz/yd2) in revision “K” as follows: Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted with

35、out license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-10176K 13MIL-C-10176 “J” MIL-C-10176 “K” Type I - Wool Type I - Wool Class 3 - 11.0 ounce Class 3 - 7.1 oz/yd2Class 5 - 14.5 ounce Class 5 - 9.3 oz/yd2Class 7 - 16.0 ounce Class 7 - 10.3 oz/yd2Class 8 - 13.0 ounce Class 8 - 8.4 oz/yd2Type II - Polyester/wool blend Ty

36、pe II - Polyester/wool blend Class 1 - 10.5 ounce Class 3 - 6.75 oz/yd2Class 8 - 9.5 ounce Class 8 - 6.0 oz/yd2Class 9 - 10.8 ounce Class 9 - 6.95 oz/yd2Class 10 - 13.0 ounce Class 10 - 8.35 oz/yd2Class 11 - 11.2 ounce Class 11 - 7.2 oz/yd2Class 12 - 10.6 ounce Class 12 - 6.8 oz/yd2Class 13 - 6.8 oz

37、/yd2, Water Repellent Treated 6.9 Changes from previous issue. Marginal notations are not used in this revision to identify changes with respect to the previous issues, due to the extensiveness of the changes. Custodians: Preparing activity: Army - GL DLA - CT Navy - NU Air Force 11 Project No. 8305

38、-0850 Review activities: Navy - MC Air Force - 99 NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this document. Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using ASSIST Online database at www.assist.daps.dla.mil. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-