DLA MIL-DTL-21115 L-2005 CLOTH TROPICAL WOOL POLYESTER WOOL《涤纶 羊毛 羊毛热带衣服》.pdf

1、 MIL-DTL-21115L 24 June 2005_ SUPERSEDING MIL-C-21115K 18 December 1987 DETAIL SPECIFICATION CLOTH, TROPICAL: WOOL, POLYESTER/WOOL This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This document covers wool and polyester/wool ble

2、nd tropical cloths. 1.2 Classification. The cloth should be of the following types and classes as specified in 6.2. Type I - Wool Class 1 - 6.75 ounce (see 6.6) Class 2 - 5.5 ounce (see 6.6) Type III - Polyester/wool blend Class 1 - 5.8 ounce (see 6.6) Class 2 - 4.85 ounce (see 6.6) Class 3 - 6.5 ou

3、nce (see 6.6) Class 4 - 6.6 ounce (see 6.6) Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DSCP-CRDD ( Bldg 6D), 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5092 or emailed to http:/ct.dscp.dla.

4、mil. Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information using Acquisition Streamlining and Standardization Information System (ASSIST) Online database at http:/assist.daps.dla.mil. AMSC/NA FSC 8305 INCH-POUNDProvided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduct

5、ion or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-21115L 22. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4, or 5 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or reco

6、mmended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in sections 3, 4, or 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. 2.

7、2 Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications. standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6

8、.2). DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS MIL-C-43665 - Cloth Wool: Mothproofing Treatment Of DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS MIL-STD-655 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Cloth, Wool, Worsted and Wool Blends (Copies of these documents are available online at http:/assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksear

9、ch/ or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings. and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified

10、herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract. FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION Rules and Regulations Under the Wool Products Labeling Act (Copies are available online at www.ftc.gov or from the Federal Trade Commission, 600 Pennsylvania Avenue at Sixth Stree

11、t, N.W., Washington, DC 20580-0001.) Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-21115L 3U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE Methods of Test for Grades of Wool Top (Copies are available online at www.usda.gov or from the U.S. Department of Agr

12、iculture, Agricultural Marketing Service, Washington, DC 20402.) 2.3 Non-Government standards and other publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents are those cited in the solicitation or co

13、ntract. AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC) AATCC 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 16 - Colorfastness to Light AATCC 20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitive AATCC 81 - pH of the Water Extract from Wet Processing

14、 Textiles AATCC 99 - Dimensional Changes on Woven or Knitted Textiles: Relaxation, Consolidation and Felting AATCC 128 - Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance Method AATCC 132 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning AATCC 158 - Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroethylene: Machine Method AATCC E

15、valuation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles (Copies of documents are available on line

16、at www.aatcc.org or from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.) ASTM INTERNATIONAL ASTM-D3511 - Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surfaces Changes Fabrics Brush Pilling Tester Method ASTM-D-3775 - Fabric Count of Woven F

17、abric ASTM-D-3776 - Mass per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM-D-5034 - Breaking Force and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) (Copies of documents are available on line at www.astm.org or from the ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19426-2959.) Provided by IHSNot

18、 for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-21115L 4AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY ANSI/ASCQ Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Copies of documents are available online at www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 6

19、00 Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203.) 2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specif

20、ic exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2) a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 4.2). 3.2 Standard sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance and shall be equal to or better than the sta

21、ndard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.3). 3.3 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the mate

22、rial meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs. 3.4 Materials. 3.4.1 Stock. 3.4.1.1 Wool. The stock shall be fleece or pulled wool or both, not lower in grade than 64s U.S. Standard, when tested as specified in 4.3.1.1. The

23、 use of laps, noils, or any other wool manufacturing by-product is prohibited (see 4.3.1.1). 3.4.1.2 Polyester. The stock shall be semi-dull polyester fiber made from polyethylene glycol terephthalate, either homopolymer or modified polymer as appropriate. The minimum average fiber length shall be 3

24、 inches for the Type III cloth. The denier shall be suitable to blend adequately with the specified wool grade. The use of polyester fiber waste is prohibited. Testing shall be as specified 4.3.4. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-D

25、TL-21115L 53.4.2 Yarn. 3.4.2.1 Wool yarn, for Type I. The wool yarn shall be spun from combed top on either the Bradford, French, or American system. The Type I, Class 1 cloth shall consist of 2-ply yarn in both the warp and filling. The Type I, Class 2 cloth shall consist of 2-ply yarn in the warp

26、and singles yarn in the filling (see 4.3.4). The Type I finished cloth shall contain not less than 95 percent wool based on the dry weight of the specimen when tested as specified in 4.3.4. 3.4.2.2 Polyester/wool blend yarn, for Type III. The polyester fiber and wool fiber shall be blended and spun

27、into a 2-ply yarn for both warp and filling for Class 1, 2, and 3 and into a 3-ply yarn for both warp and filling for Class 4. As an alternate, the Class 2 cloth may be woven with a singles yarn for both warp and filling (see 4.3.4). The use of laps, noils, or any other wool manufacturing by-product

28、s is prohibited (see 4.3.2). The finished cloth shall consist of the following fiber percentages based on the dry chloroform-extracted specimen when tested as specified in 4.3.4. Percntage Fiber Minimum Maximum Polyester 55 60 Wool, 64s U.S. Std (or finer) 40 - 3.5 Color. The color shall be as speci

29、fied (see 6.2) and shall match the standard sample. The color of Type I cloth shall be obtained by blending stock or top dyed wools; the color of Type III shall be obtained by blending top dyed wool with stock, top or tow dyed polyester fibers with the wool and polyester fibers dyed separately and t

30、hen blended. Pigmented fibers may be used on Type III cloth in lieu of dyed, provided that the resultant blend will have appearance characteristics equal to or better than that of the standard sample. Monotone shades regardless of blend composition shall present a solid appearance with not more of a

31、 heathery appearance than is displayed by the standard sample. When the Marine Corps Green 2241 for Type III is specified, the cloth shall be produced by blending white stock with color stock to obtain the shade and heather effect shown by the standard sample. 3.5.1 Mothproofing. Mothproofing of the

32、 wool material, in accordance with MIL-C-43665, shall be accomplished during stock, top, or piece dyeing as applicable (see 4.3.4). 3.5.2 Visual shade matching (all types and classes). The color and shade of the finished cloth shall match the standard sample when viewed using AATCC Evaluation Proced

33、ure 9, Option A, under filtered tungsten lamps that approximate artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 200 K, with illumination of 100 + 20 foot candles and shall be a good match to the standard sample under horizon lamplight at 2300 200 K. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleN

34、o reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-21115L 63.5.3 Colorfastness (all types and classes). The finished cloth shall conform to the colorfastness requirements in below in Table I when tested as specified in 4.3.4. TABLE I. Colorfastness requirements (all types an

35、d classes) Colors Evaluation Light (40 hrs or 170 KJ) 2/ (min.) Wet Dry-cleaning (1 cycle) 1/ (min.) Perspiration (acid ounces per linear yard based on 56 inch width in revision “K” have been converted to ounces per square yard (oz/yd2) in revision “L” as follows: MIL-C-21115K MIL-C-21115L Type I -

36、Wool Type I - Wool Class 1 - 10.5 ounce Class 1 - 6.75 oz/yd2Class 2 - 8.5 ounce Class 2 - 5.5 oz/yd2Type III - Polyester/wool blend Type III - Polyester/wool blend Class 1 - 9.0 ounce Class 1 - 5.8 oz/yd2Class 2 - 7.7 ounce Class 2 - 4.85 oz/yd2Class 3 - 10.0 ounce Class 3 - 6.5 oz/yd2Class 4 - 10.

37、5 ounce Class 4 - 6.6 oz/yd26.9 Changes from previous issue. Marginal notations are not used in this revision to identify changes with respect to the previous issues, due to the extensiveness of the changes. Custodians: Preparing activity: Army GL DLA - CT Navy - NU Air Force 11 Project No. 8305-084

38、8 Review activities: Navy - MC Air Force - 99 NOTE: The activities listed above were interested in this document as of the date of this document. Since organizations and responsibilities can change, you should verify the currency of the information above using ASSIST Online database at http:/assist.daps.dla.mil. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-