DLA MIL-DTL-32072-2002 THREAD POLYESTER [Superseded DLA V-T-285 F CANC NOTICE 1 DLA V-T-285 F DLA V-T-285 E DLA V-T-285 D DLA V-T-285 C (2) DLA V-T-285 C INT AMD 1 DLA V-T-285 C DL.pdf

1、 INCH-POUND MIL-DTL-32072 JAN 8, 2002 SUPERSEDI NG V-T-285F January 3, 1991 DETAIL SPECIFICATION THREAD, POLYESTER 1. SCOPE AND CLASSIFICATION 1.1 Scope. This specification covers polyester thread used for machine sewing (see 6.1). 1.2 Classification. 1.2.1 Types and classes. The thread must be furn

2、ished in the following types, classes, and subclasses as specified. (see 6.2) Types: I Twisted soft multiple cord. II Twisted bonded multiple cord. III Bonded monocord, IV Soft air entangled. V Bonded air entangled. Classes: Class 1 Normal elongation. Class 3 Heat stable low shrinkage. Beneficial co

3、mments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn.: DSCP-COCT, 700 Robbins Ave., Philadelphia PA., 19111-5092. AMSC N/A FSC 8310 DIST

4、RIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-32072 2Subclasses: Subclass A - General purpose Subclass B - Nonwicking finish Subclass C - No finish 1.2.1.1 Subclas

5、s references. In end item specifications where neither subclass designation “A” “B” or “C is indicated, the requirements for subclass “A” shall apply. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4. This section does not include documents

6、cited in other sections or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements and documents cited in sections 3 and 4, whether or not they are lis

7、ted. 2.2 Federal publications CODE OF FEDERAL REGULATIONS Title 40, part 798.4470 (primary dermal irritation) (This reference my be found on the Internet at www.access.gpo.gov/nara/cfr/cfr-table-search.html) 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to t

8、he extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the s

9、olicitation (see 6.2). AMERICAN NATIONAL STANDARDS INSTITUTE (ANSI) / AMERICAN SOCIETY for QUALITY (ASQ) ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection of Attributes. (Application for copies should be addressed to American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY

10、10036-8002) AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM) PUBLICATION ASTM D - 204 - Standard Methods of Testing Sewing Threads ASTM D 1423 - Standard Test Method for Twist in Yarns by the Direct Counting Method Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license

11、 from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-32072 3(Application for copies should be addressed to American Society for Testing and Materials, 100 Barr Harbour Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428) AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC) AATCC 15 Colorfastness To Perspiration AATCC 16 Colorfastness to

12、 Light AATCC 20 Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC 111 Weather Resistance: Sunshine Arc Lamp Exposure with Wetting AATCC 117 Colorfastness to Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing) AATCC 132 Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning Applications for copies should be addressed to American Association of Textile Chemists

13、 and Colorists (AATCC) PO Box 12215, Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215) (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services) M

14、ISCELLANEOUS Principals and Methods of Toxicity, A. Wallace Hayes (editor), 1989, pp. 394-396 (Applications for copies of referenced documents should be addressed to Raven Press, New York, NY) 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references ci

15、ted herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Standard sample. When a standard sample is available, the thread shall match the standard for shade

16、 and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.3). Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-32072 43.2 Materials. 3.2.1 Yarn. The yarn fo

17、r all types shall be bright, continuous multifilament polyester (polyethylene glycol terephthalate) having a specific gravity within the range 1.36 to 1.40 when tested as specified in 4.2.1. 3.2.2 Bonding agent. The bonding agent used in types II, III and V thread shall be colorless. 3.3 Color. The

18、color (shade) shall be as specified in the applicable end item specification or in the contract or purchase order (see 6.2). 3.3.1 Matching. The shade of the thread shall be a good (good is defined as a perceptible not appreciable difference in color) match to the standard sample see (6.3), when vie

19、wed under filtered tungsten lamps which approximate artificial daylight having a correlated color temperature of 2300 200 K, with illumination, of 100 20 foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sarnple under incandescent lamplight at 2300 20 foot candles. If no standard sample is ava

20、ilable then the thread shall be a good match to the standard sample of the end item base cloth, when viewed under filtered tungsten lamps that approximate artificial daylight and that have a correlated color temperature of 7500 200 K with illumination of 100 20 foot candles, and shall be a good matc

21、h to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2300 200 K. When end item use of the thread is not known, thread sizes 150 or finer shall be evaluated for shade after removal of finish. Thread to be used for dry-cleanable wool or dry-cleanable wool blend clothing or in end items requiring d

22、ry cleaning shall be evaluated for shade matching after removal of finish. Removal of finish from thread when required, shall be as specified in 4.4.1.1. 3.3.2 Colorfastness. The colorfastness of dyed and finished thread shall be as specified in the applicable end item specification or as set forth

23、in the contract or purchase order (see 6.2 and 6.4), except that when colorfastness requirements are not stated or not referenced to a standard sample, the thread shall show a colorfastness of 3.5 minimum on the AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change to laundering (after 3 cycles) perspiration, and light

24、 and the thread shall have a of 3.5 minimum on the AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change for colorfastness to dry heat for both color change and color transfer. When a standard sample for colorfastness is referenced, the thread shall be equal to or better than the standard sample for the specified color

25、fastness properties or (when properties are not specified ) for colorfastness to laundering ( after 3 cycles), perspiration, light, and dry heat. Tests for colorfastness (including wet dry cleaning, and weathering (when specified) shall be as specified in 4.2.1 as applicable. 3.4 Construction. 3.4.1

26、 Type I. The type I thread shall be of twisted, multiple cord (ply) construction. Each of the individual plies shall be twisted initially with not less than the number of turns per inch (t.p.i.) to be used in the final twist, and in the opposite direction to the final twist (see 3.5). Type I thread

27、shall be unbonded, with a soft finish. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-32072 53.4.2 Type II. Type II thread shall have the same construction as type I, except that the type II thread shall be bonded. 3.4.3 Type III. Type Ill t

28、hread shall be essentially a single ply, monocord construction. Constituent yarns before combining shall contain only original producers twist and the final twist shall be no more than 5 t.p.i. Type III thread shall be bonded to unite all the filaments to form a smooth even monocord 3.4.4 Type IV. T

29、ype IV thread shall be composed of one or more constituent yarns which are air entangled together by the manufacturing process to form a single ply thread with a final twist of no more than 10 t.p.i. (See 3.5). 3.4.5 Type V. Type V thread shall have the same construction as type IV except that the t

30、ype V thread shall be bonded. 3.5 Twist direction. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2). the direction of the final twist shall be “Z” except that larger sizes or types I and II threads used for sole stitching of footwear may be “S” or Z” depending upon the initial twist when tested as specified in

31、4.2.1. 3.6 Physical requirements, The finished thread shall conform to the applicable requirements for the specified type, class, and size set forth in table I through VI when tested as specified in 4.2.1 TABLE I. Type I class 1 thread requirements Tex size Breaking Strength LBS. Elongation % Max 16

32、 1.4 26 24 2.0 30 3.0 26 45 4.3 70 8.0 26 90 10.6 135 16.0 26 210 24 270 32 26 350 40 400 48 26 450 54 500 60 26 700 70 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-32072 6TABLE II. Type I class 3 thread requirements Tex size Breaking Stre

33、ngth LBS. Elongation % MIN MAX 16 1.25 15 35 24 1.90 15 35 30 3.80 15 35 45 6.80 15 35 70 7.60 15 35 90 16.00 15 35 210 19.00 15 35 270 27.25 15 35 350 34.00 15 35 400 41.00 15 35 450 47.70 15 35 TABLE III. Type II class 1 thread requirements Tex size Breaking Strength LBS. Elongation % Max 16 1.5 2

34、6 24 2.3 26 30 3.0 26 45 4.5 26 70 8.0 26 90 10.6 26 135 16.0 26 210 25 26 270 34 26 350 42 26 400 48 26 450 54 26 500 60 26 700 70 26 TABLE IV. Type III class 1 thread requirements Tex size Breaking Strength LBS. Elongation % Max 16 1.4 26 24 2.6 26 30 3.0 26 45 5.3 26 70 8.0 26 90 10.6 26 135 16 2

35、6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-32072 7TABLE IV. Type III class 1 thread requirements cont Tex size Breaking Strength LBS. Elongation % Max 210 24 26 270 32 26 350 40 26 400 48 26 450 54 26 500 60 26 700 70 26 TABLE V Type I

36、V, soft air entangled thread requirements Tex size Breaking Strength LBS. Elongation % Max 16 1.0 26 21 1.4 26 24 1.6 26 27 1.8 26 30 2.0 26 40 2.8 26 50 3.6 26 60 4.3 26 80 5.4 26 90 5.9 26 105 6.9 26 TABLE V Type VI, bonded entangled thread requirements Tex size Breaking Strength LBS. Elongation %

37、 Max 16 1.0 26 21 1.4 26 24 1.6 26 27 1.8 26 30 2.0 26 40 2.8 26 50 3.6 26 60 4.3 26 80 5.4 26 90 5.9 26 105 6.9 26 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-32072 83.6.1 Knots. Tex size 150 and finer thread shall average not more than

38、one thread knot per 2 ounces, and Tex size 210 and heavier thread shall average not more than one thread knot per 4 ounces. 3.6.2 Shrinkage (class 3 only). The shrinkage of class 3 thread shall be not more than 3.0 percent, when tested as specified in 4.2.1. 3.7 Finish and bond. No chemical finishes

39、 or bonding agents shall be applied except those necessary to provide good sewing quality and as applicable for bonding types II, III and V. Finishes shall not transport or wick in any manner as to cause staining or discoloration of the sewn materials. 3.7.1 Nonwicking finish (subclass B). The subcl

40、ass B thread shall be finished with a commercial nontoxic nonwicking finish uniformly applied. The use of compounds containing mercury in any form is prohibited. The finished thread shall resist the wicking of water when tested as specified in 4.2.1. 3.8 Put-up. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2),

41、 the thread shall be put-up on a nominal weight per holder basis on holders as specified in the contract or purchase order in accordance with table VII. When put-up on ready-made lockstitch bobbins is specified, the style of bobbin and the length of thread therein shall be in accordance with the con

42、tract or purchase order. The average weight per holder shall be not less than the specified nominal weight minus 3.0 percent tolerance when examined (on a 10-holder basis) as specified in 4.4.3. The thread shall be put-up in one continuous length per holder and shall be so wound that each turn and l

43、ayer is free from entanglement. TABLE VII Put-up Thread Type Size Holder Type I All sizes Single head Spools I, II, III All sizes Single head plastic tubes IV, V All sizes Spools Cones or tubes 3.9 Identification marking. Except when commercial identification markings are specified in the invitation

44、 for bid, each holder except the ready made lockstitch bobbins shall have a label attached in such a manner as to remain in place and be clearly legible until all thread has been removed. In the case of ready made lockstitch bobbins; the label shall be put on the outside of the unit pack (bulk pack)

45、. The label shall be printed with the information as specified below: Nomenclature National stock number Weight (net) Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-32072 9Direction of twist Color Tex size Type and c1ass Contract or purchase

46、 order number Date manufactured (month and year) Name of contractor For type I, class 3 thread, the date of manufacture of thread shall be included on the label. 3.10 Toxicity. The finished cloth shall not present a dermal health hazard when used as intended (see 4.3). 4. VERIFICATION 4.1 Classifica

47、tion of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows: Quality conformance inspection (see 4.2). 4.2 Quality conformance inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQC Z1.4, except where otherwise indicated. 4.2.1 End Item Tes

48、ting. The end items shall be tested for the characteristics Listed in table VIII. The methods of testing as listed in table VIII shall be followed. The lot size shall be expressed in units of holders except that for ready made bobbins the lot size shall be expressed in units of one gross of bobbins. The sample unit shall be one holder or sufficient holders to provide enough thread for the Applicable tests. TABLE VIII. E