DLA MIL-S-13192 P-1988 SHOES MEN-S DRESS OXFORD《牛津布服装男鞋》.pdf

1、MIL-S-L3192P 8i.I 9399906 0378367 9 W c 4-30 MIL-S- 13 192 P 30 June 1988 SUPERSEDING 28 June 1985 MIL -S - 1 3 1 92 N MILITARY SPECIFICATION SHOES, MENS, DRESS, OXFORD This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. - 1. SCOPE ji 1.1 Scope. This

2、document covers a leather blucher oxford shoe. .- 1.2 Classification. The shoe shall be of one type in the following sizes L. and widths, as specified in table I below (see 6.2). TABLE I. Schedule of sizes Schedule of sizes 4 49 5 59 6 69 7 79 8 89 9 99 10 109 11 114 12 129 13 13; 14 14 Beneficial c

3、omments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: U. S. Army Natick Research, Development, and Engineering Center, Natick, MA 01760-5014 by using the self- addressed Standardization Document Improvement Propo

4、sal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8430 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS y Clothing, Personal Equipment and Equipage; General Specification For - Soles, Rubber, Shoe - Counter, Fo

5、otwear - Leather, Calfskin, Kip, and Cattlehide for Footwear - Cloth, Twill, Cotton, 10.0 ounces (339 g) Uppers, Chrome Tanned - Textile Test Methods - Leather, Methods of Sampling and Testing - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted wit

6、hout license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-L3192P L( 999990b 0378369 2 MIL-S- 1 3 1 92P MILITARY MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection MIL-STD-129 - Marking for Shipment and Storage MIL-STD-147 - Palletized Unit Loads MIL-STD-731 - Quality of Wood Members for Containers and Pallets by Att

7、ributes (Copies of specifications, standards, and handbooks required by contractors in connection with specific acquisition functions should be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting activity.) 2.2 Other publications. The following documents form a part of this spec

8、ification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DOD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS specified in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS shall be the issues of

9、the nongovernment documents which are current on the date of the solicitation. AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM) D5 - Penetration of Bituminous Materials D 792 - Specific Gravity and Density of Plastics D 3951 - Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging E 18 - Rockwell Hardness and

10、Rockwell Superficial Hardness E 28 by Displacement of Metallic Materials - Softening Point by Ring-and-Ball Apparatus (Copies should be obtained from the American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103-1187.) (Nongovernment standards and other publications are no

11、rmally available from the organizations which prepare or which distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational servi ces. 1 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cit

12、ed herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information t

13、o the contractor (see 6.4). Variation from this document may appear in the sample, in which case this document shall govern. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-23272P L( W 7799906 0378370 7 W MIL-S- 13 192 P 3.2 First article. Wh

14、en specified in the contract or purchase order, a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 4.3, 6.2, and 6.3). 3.3 Materials. (See 6.7). 3.3.1 Leather. All leather components covered by this document shall contain not less than 0.18 percent nor more than 0.70 percent paranitropheno

15、l fungicide. 3.3.1.1 Upper leather. The uppers shall be cut from calfskin, kip, or cattlehide conforming to types I, II, or III of MIL-L-43283. The color of the leather shall be black, including top, base, intermediate, and initial coatings. The top finish applied by the shoe manufacturer shall be a

16、 water base, acrylic resin finish or a water base, wax acrylic resin finish (see 4.4.1.1 and 6.5). All finishes applied by the shoe manufacturer and tanner shall be compatible with one another to ensure a long-lasting high luster finish. The finish should be capable of being polished to a high luste

17、r with commercial type paste wax before and after normal use. In addition to the defects listed below, any other upper leather defects such as fat wrinkle, or pit and insect damage, plainly visible at 3 feet or more shall be considered as affecting appearance and shall not appear in the vamp or quar

18、ters in front of the breast of the heel. Cut parts with scratches, scars, slaughter cuts, damage on the grain surface of the leather, brands, or flesh cuts that show through on the grain surface shall not be used. Flanky, pipey, loose, cracked, or any rough or coarse grain leather shall not appear i

19、n the vamps or quarters; however, those defects (with the exception of cracked grain) may appear in the counter area back of the breast of the heel or in the tongue. Clusters of veins, split veins, or pronounced veins shall not appear in the vamps. Vamps shall be given a 100 percent inspection as sp

20、ecified in 4.4.2.1 to ensure elimination of any vamps containing defects listed in 4.4.2.1. 3.3.1.2 Quarter linings. The quarter linings shall be cut from either chrome-tanned or a combination of chrome and vegetable-tanned, full grain or corrected grain calf, kip or side leather, or full grain bell

21、ies and shall be not less than 2-1/2 ounces or more than 3-1/2 ounces in thickness when tested as specified in 4.4.1. vegetable extract color with a smooth finish. A bright pigment finish may be used. As an alternative to the above, the linings may be cut from 2 to 3 ounces thick, full grain chrome

22、tanned or chrome vegetable retanned pigskin. The pigskin shall be drum dyed, and the color shall be light russet. The pigskin shall be finished on the grain side with a light application of aniline finish or on the flesh side with a clear lacquer sealer. The aniline finish or clear lacquer sealer sh

23、all be only sufficient to coat the surface fibers of the pigskin and shall not decrease porosity. When the flesh side is finished, the flesh side shall be smooth plated. The finished surface shall be worn next to the foot. The lining leather shall contain not less than 0.18 percent nor more than 0.7

24、0 percent paranitrophenol fungicide when tested as specified in 4.4.1. Slaughter cuts, flanky, pipey, or off-stretch cuts which may affect serviceability will not be permitted. The leather shall be a natural or light russet 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted witho

25、ut license from IHS-,-,-NIL-S-13192P 4 a 9999906 0378371 O m 3.3.1.3 Heel pads. The heel pads shall be cut from full grain or corrected grain lining leather, sheepskin, kip or calf leather. The heel pads may also be cut from cattlehide leather splits. The color of the heel pads shall approximate the

26、 color of the lining leather. used, the color shall be imparted by application of a pigmented finish. The leather for the heel pads shall be chrome tanned or combination chrome and vegetable tanned. The thickness of the heel pads shall be 2 to 3-1/2 ounces when tested as specified in 4.4.1. 0.18 per

27、cent or not more than 0.70 percent paranitrophenol fungicide when tested as specified in 4.4.1. may be cut from the pigskin lining leather specified in 3.3.1.2. When cattlehide split leather is The heel pads shall contain not less than As an alternative to the above, the heel pads 3.3.1 .4 Sole leat

28、her. 3.3.1.4.1 Outsoles. The outsoles shall conform to the requirements for types III or IV, class 3, style 1, subclass (a) of KK-L-165 and shall be full length with a thickness of 10-1/2 (+1) irons after being fleshed (evened) and impregnated. As an alternative, a black 10 (2 1/21 irons thick rubbe

29、r outsole conforming to type I, class 1 of MIL-S-40043 may be used. The tread area of the rubber outsole shall be smooth. The outsole may be cut from sheet stock and the size, manufacturers name or trademark need not be marked on the bottom of the outsoles. 3.3.1.4.2 Insoles. The insoles shall be cu

30、t from leather conforming to type I or III, class 1, tannage a or b of KK-1-570. The insoles shall have either a channeled or stuck-on rib (see 3.3.4.6). The thickness of the channeled insoles shall be not less than 5-1/2 irons and not more than 7.irons, and the thickness of the stuck-on rib insoles

31、 shall be not less than 4-1/2 irons and not more than 6 irons. cut from Texorist material. The Texorist material shall contain 0.25 to 1.00 percent copper-8-quinolinolate uniformly distributed throughout the insole. The Texorist insole shall be 0.116 inch 2 0.010 inch thick. The insole shall be cut

32、with the heel-to-toe direction across the machine direction of the Texorist. The Texorist insole shall have a stuck-on rib applied to the printed side of the material (see 3.3.4.6). As an alternative, the insole may be 3.3.1.5 Welting. The welting shall conform to the requirements of KK-W-23 1 . 3.3

33、.2 Counters. The counters shall conform to the requirements of MIL-C-4 18 14 for the “Shoes, Mens, Dress, Oxford .It 3.3.2.1 Counter sizes. Counters shall be made in eight sizes to cover the range of shoe sizes from 4 to 15 and widths XN to XW. shall be defined by patterns furnished by the Governmen

34、t. The counters shall be fitted in accordance with table II. The sizes and shapes 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-13192P TABLE II. Counter fitting schedule Counter size 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 a Width: XN 5-58 6-78 8-99 10-1 14 12-134 1

35、4-15 - - N 4-48 5-64 7-88 9-109 11-124 13-144. 15 - R - 4-54 6-79 8-94 10-114 12-139 14-15 - - 4-44 5-64 7-88 9-109 11-124 13-14; 15 xw - - 4-54 6-74 8-94 10-1 14 12-138 14-15 W a 3.3.3 Adhesives. The adhesives used for binding the various parts of the shoe shall be of the following types, a. Natura

36、l rubber latex b. Synthetic rubber latex, including chloroprene c. Natural rubber solvent cement d. Synthetic rubber solvent cement e. Synthetic resin cement 3.3.4 Fabrics. 3.3.4.1 Channeled insole reinforcement. The insole reinforcement shall be cotton duck cloth conforming to type I of CCC-C-443.

37、3.3.4.2 Vamp lining cloth. The vamp lining shall be cut from cotton twill conforming to class 2 of MIL-C-43956. 3.3.4.3 Vamp and quarter doublers (for type I calfskin leather). When type I calfskin leather is used, the vamp and quarter doublers shall be cut from single napped cotton flannel weighing

38、 not less than 5.7 ounces per square yard. The finished fabric shall have a texture of 36 ends per inch in the warp and 36 picks per inch in the filling. minimum of 30 pounds in the warp and 30 pounds in the filling. The starch and protein content including chloroform-soluble and water-soluble mater

39、ial shall be not greater than 15.0 percent based on the weight of the fabric when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The color of the fabric shall be natural (unbleached-) or bleached. NOTE: Vamp and quarter doublers are not required when type II kip leather is used. The breaking strength shall be a 6 Pr

40、ovided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-13172P BY 7777706 0378373 4 W MIL-S-13192P 3.3.4.4 Quarter top tape. The tape shall be braided using cotton yarns over cotton or nylon warp yarns. and have a minimum breaking strength of 24 pounds w

41、hen tested as specified in 4.4.1 As an alternative, a bonded monocord nylon thread conforming to type III, size 3 of V-T-295 may be used. The tape shall be 3/32 inch 2 1/32 inch wide 3.3.4.5 Tongue linings. The tongue linings shall be white wool felt, 6 to 7 ounces per square yard, containing a mini

42、mum of 35 percent wool when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The water-soluble content shall be a maximum of 4 percent when tested as specified in 4.4.1. lining may be cut from materials specified in 3.3.4.2 or 3.3.4.3. ravelling, the tongue lining shall be either cut on the bias direction of the mater

43、ial or be pinked across the top. As an alternative, the tongue To minimize * 3.3.4.6 Stuck-on rib (when used, see 3.3.1.4.2). The finished rib shall be 15/64 inch 2 1/64 inch high and a minimum of 1/2 inch in width measured from the inside vertical portion of the rib, and shall extend from heel brea

44、st line to heel breast line on the insole. The rib shall be made from coated fabric or a combination of coated fabric and fiberboard. The fabric shall conform to requirements specified in 3.3.4.6.1. The upstanding portion of the rib shall be one of the following: not less than three plies of coated

45、fabric folded over on itself; two layers of coated fabric with a fiberboard filler not less than 0.050 inch thick; or fiberboard and coated fabric. 3.3.4.6.1 Rib construction. The ribbing fabric used in the construction of the rib shall be unbleached cotton or cotton-synthetic fabric conforming to t

46、he requirements of table III. The fabric shall be coated on one side with a rubber-base adhesive specified in 3.3.3, and bonded to the flesh side of the insole. The fabric or fiberboard shall cover 5/32 inch (- 2/32, + 1/32 inch) of the peripheral edge and extend over the top of the vertical rib, or

47、 the fabric may extend from the inside top of the vertical rib and cover the area between the ribs for a distance not less than 5/8 inch from the inside rib edge. The preformed rib shall be firmly and smoothly fitted and bonded to the flesh side of the insole as specified above to provide the requir

48、ed extension on the finished shoe. As an alternative, the fabric, bonded to the flesh side of the insole between the ribs, is permitted to have a pinked edge. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL -S - 1 3 1 92P TABLE III. Ribbing fab

49、ric requirements Characteristic Requirement, minimum Weight Yarns per unit length: Warp Filling Breaking strength: Warp Filling 8.0 ounces per sq yd 52 yarns per inch 30 yarns per inch 105 pounds 105 pounds 3.3.4.6.2 Rib strength. The physical requirements for the rib strength shall conform to table IV when tested as specified in 4.4.2.4. TABLE IV. Rib strength requirements Characteristic Minimum 1/ - Average Shear strength Stitch strength 70 pounds 20 pounds 7