DLA MIL-S-29368 D-1994 SHIRTS WOMEN-S LONG AND SHORT SLEEVES《女长短袖衫》.pdf

1、MIL-S-293bD = 9999906 1984943 T46 I INCH-POUND MIL-S-29368D MIL-S-293 68C 2 June 1988 MILITARY SPECIFICATION SHIRTS, WOMENS: LONG AND SHORT SLEEVES This specification is approved for use by the U. S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all departments and agencies of th

2、e Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for womens polyester/wool and polyester/cotton shirts with long and/or short sleeves. 1.2 Classification. The shirts shall be in the following types, classes and sizes, as specified (see 6.2): Tme I - Short Sleev

3、e Class 1 - PolyesterNool, Tropical, Khaki Shade 2122 Class 2 - Polyester/Cotton, Poplin, White Shade 3013 Class 3 - Polyesterniool, Tropical, Khaki Shade M- 1 (Optional) Type II - Long Sleeve Class 1 - Polyesterniool, Tropical, Khaki Shade 2 122 Class 2 - PolyesterNool, Tropical, Khaki Shade M-1 (O

4、ptional) Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FSSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19101-84 1

5、9, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal D Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted witho

6、ut license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-293bD W 9999906 1984944 982 MIL-S-29368D Schedule of Sizes Short xo 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents 2.1.1 Specifications and standards. The following specifications and standards form a part of this specification to the extent spe

7、cified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50 13 5 A-A-50199 A-A-52094

8、V-B-871 I“-P-71 DDD-L-20 MILITARY MIL-P-15011 MIL-B-17757 MIL-(2-21 115 MIL-C-2 188 1 MIL-C-29404 MIL-C-44296 STANDARDS Regular xo 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Lona xo 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 -Cloth, Interlining, Polyester -Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered -Thread, Cotton -Button, Sewing

9、 Hole and Button, Staple (Plastic) -Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer Construction, 2 Way and 4 Way Cp art ial) -Label, for Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use) -Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Post Construction, 4 Way Entry -Box, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Size) -Cloth, Tropical

10、, Wool, Polyester/Wool -Cloth, Poplin, Polyester and Cotton -Cloth, Tropical, PolyesterWool -Cloth, Fusibles FEDERAL FED-STD- 19 1 FED-STD-75 1 -Textile Test Methods -Stitch, Seam and Stitching 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-S

11、-29368D 999990b 1984945 819 MIL-S-29368D MILITARY MIL-STD- 105 MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-147 -Paletized Unit Load MIL-STD-984 -Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes -Marking for Shipment and Storage -Provisions for Size Labeling of Womens Uniform Clothing (Unless otherwise indicated,

12、 copies of Federal and military specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Building 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 191 1 1-5094.) 2.1.2 Other Government publications. The following other Government publications form a part of this

13、specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues shall be those in effect on the date of the solicitation. Department of Defense OD) Standard Color Card for Sewing Threads Department of Defense OD) Standard Shades for Buttons (Application for copies should be addr

14、essed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 200 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016.) (Copies of specifications, standards and publications required by contractors in connection with specific acquisition functions should be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the

15、 contracting officer.) 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following document forms a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents which are DOD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unle

16、ss otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in DODISS shall be the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). AMERICAN SOCIETY OF TESTING AND MATERIALS ASTM D 395 1 - Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging (Application for copies should be addressed to American S

17、ociety for Testing and Materials, (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations 19 16 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19 103 .) that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informationa

18、l services.) 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein (except for associated detail specifications, specification sheets or MS standards), the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specifica

19、tion, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Standard samples. Standard samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in t

20、he standard sample in which case the specification shall govern. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-293bBD = 9999906 I1984946 755 MIL-S-29368D 3.2 First article. When specified (see 6.2), the contractor shall furnish sample shirt

21、s for first article inspection and approval. 3.3 Materials 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the separate types and classes of shirts shall be as follows: 3.3.1.1 Type I. class 1 and tvpe II. class 1. The basic material for type I, class 1 and type TI, class 1 shirts shall be 6.5 to 7.0 o

22、unce polyester/ wool, khaki shade 2122, conforming to type I, of MIL-C-29404. 3.3.1.2 Type I. class 2. The basic material for type I, class 2 shirts shall be 4.5 ounce poplin, polyester/cotton, white shade 3013, conforming to type II, class 1 of MiL-C-2188 1. 3.3.1.3 Tvue 1. class 3 and tvpe II. cla

23、ss 2. The basic material for type I, class 3 and type II, class 2 shall be 8.5 to 9.5 ounce cloth, tropical, polyester/wool, khaki shade M-1 conforming to type III, class 1 of MIL-C-2 1 1 15. 3.3.2 Interlining. The material used for interlining the fiont, collar stand, and collar leafs of type I and

24、 II shirts and the cuffs of type II shirts shall be a polyester fiber cloth conforming to A-A-50135. As an alternate, fusible cloth conforming to type V, class 2, style B of MIL-C-44296 may be used. 3.3.3 Thread. The thread shall be cotton-covered polyester, ticket No 70, 2 ply conforming to A-A-501

25、99. As an option, thread conforming to type I, ticket No. 40, 3 ply of A-A-52094 may be used for the buttonholes. The thread used for all stitching shall be in shade khaki P-1, cable No. 66019 for type I, classes 1 and 3 and type II, classes 1 and 2 shirts and shade white AH cable No. 66050 for type

26、 I, class 2 shirts. (See DOD Standard Color Card of Oficial Standardized Shades for Sewing Thread.) 3.3.4 Buttons. The buttons for type I and II shirts shall be type II pearlescent, class K, style 25, size 19 line, conforming to V-B-871 and in the following colors. (See DOD Standard Shades for Butto

27、ns.) Type I, classes 1 and 3, and type II, classes 1 and 2, Shade Tan AJ, Cable No. 62028 Type I, class 2, Shade White BA, Cable No. 6203 1 3.3.5 Elastic. The elastic for the collar closure loop shall be polyester, 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide, and the color shall match the shirt color. 3.3.6 Labels 3.3.6.

28、1 Combination label. A combination identification and instruction label conforming to type Vi, classes 1 and 3 of DDD-L-20 may be used. The fastness to laundering requirements of DDD-L-20 shall apply. The content and format shall be as follows: Nomenclature: SHIRT, WOMENS POLY/WOOL CONTRACT NO.: NAM

29、E OF CONTRACTOR: WOOL PRODUCTS ACT INFORMATION DRY CLEAN OR LAUNDER BY HAND CAUTION: BLEACH, FABRIC SOFTENER, STARCH AND/OR HOT WATER (EXCEEDING 100F) WILL HARM THE FABRIC OF THE SHIRT. Do not bleach, use starch or fabric softener. Do not squeeze or wring out. Place dripping shirt on hanger. Press w

30、hen dry or nearly dry on wrong side with steam iron set on a low heat. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-S-293bD W 999990b 1984947 b9L = MIL-S-29368D In lieu of the printed cloth label, the required identification information may

31、 be marked on the shirt by heat transfer (decalcomania), direct printing or stamping. The markings shall conform to type III or type IV, class 1 of DDD-L-20. 3.3.6.2 Site label. The size label shall conform to type VI, Class 2 of DDD-L-20. The inscription on the size label shall conform to MIL-STD-9

32、84: Table II, Body Dimensions for Marine Corps; Table III, Height Ranges; and Figure 1. Examples of labels are as follows: Stock Number: 54 10-00-000-0000(Example) Bust Circ 35“ Height Hip Circ 37 1/2“ 63-1/2 to 67-1/2“ (R) (Size Code 8) 3.3.6.3 Labelhag. Each item shall be individually bar-coded wi

33、th the type VIII, class 17 labehag of DDD-L-20. This labeytag shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded and/or packaged as specified and shall cause no damage to the item. 3.4 Design. The shirts shall be the U. S. Marine Corps design shown on Figures 1 through 5

34、, six button front, semiformfitting having princess lines, ornamental sleeve CUES (type I, classes 1, 2, and 3), convertible collars, and vest type front and elastic loop for closing the collar. The type II, classes 1 and 2 shirt shall be the same body design except with long sleeves and cuffs to bu

35、tton. Top button at collar shall close with 1/8 inch elastic loop and hidden button. 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns will be fiirnished to the contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working pat

36、terns. The standard patterns provide 1/4 inch seam allowance for seams except as other wise specified in Table I. Standard patterns show size, seam allowances, directional lines for cutting and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of the component parts. Also, minor modifications

37、are permitted when necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the specification. . 3.5.1 Pattern parts. The shirts shall be cut from the material specified herein in accordance with the number of p

38、attern parts indicated below: Item 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Il 10. Pattern Nomenclature Material : Basic Front Side fronts Center back Side back Sleeve (type I, classes 1 and 2 and 3) Sleeve (type II, classes 1 and 2) Collar Collar stand Cuffs (type II, classes 1 and 2) No. of Cut Darts 2 Collar 5

39、 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-S-29368D 9999906 1984948 528 MIL-S-29368D 3.6 Construction. The shirts shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations and stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table I. The contra

40、ctor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed in Table I, but all operations shall be used to manufacture the shirts. When the alternate fusible interlining is used (see 3.3.2), stitching of interlinings in operations 4, 5, and 12 are not required. 3.6.1 Stitches. seams.

41、and stitchinns. The stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-75 1. Whenever two or more stitch or seam types are specified for the same operation, any one of them may be used. The number of stitches per inch as specified in Table I indicates the minimum and max

42、imum number permitted. Ail overedge stitching shall be done on a serging machine with a knife attachment properly set to trim the raveled edge without cutting the material. When a 5 17 stitch is used for the overedge stitch, it must be used throughout the shirt where given as an option. 3.6.1.1 Ends

43、 of seams and stitching. Ends of seams and stitching (stitch type 301), except the ends of a continuous line of stitching when not caught in another seam or stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. T

44、hread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. 3.6.2 Shade marking. The component parts of the shirt, except parts cut from ends, shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be use

45、d except: (a) Corrosive metal fastening devices. (b) Sew-on tickets. (c) Adhesive type tickets which show discoloration and leave an adhesive mass which adheres (d) Any marking medium which would tend to leave a permanent mark. to the material upon removal of the ticket. NOTE: The use of ink pad num

46、bering machine, rubber stamp or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment and, wherever possible, is covered by the seam allowance. 3.6.3 Pressing. All pressing operations specified in Table I shall be accomplished with a heated pressing iron or pressing m

47、achine set at medium (low) temperature (285F maximum). 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NIL-S-29368D 9999906 I1984949 4b4 MIL-S-29368D TABLE I. - MANUFACTURING REOUIREMENTS NO. OPERATION 1- I. 2 3. 4 cuttin . a. Cut the shirt in stri

48、ct accordance with patterns furnished by the P Government. ut the component parts for the shirt from one piece of basic rial, except the under collar, under ply collar stand and under- . Cut the 1/8 inch wide elastic 2-314 inches long for neck closure y parts of the shirt containing holes . Replace

49、any parts damaged during the manufacturing process y needle chews which may develop into a hole, scissor or knife ts, tears, holes, mends or burns in the material. be identified for size. The completed collar shali finish smooth and Edges shall be uniformly even. The seams . The collar and collar stand each shall be made of two plies of asic material and one ply of interlining. Seam interlining and top coilar together 1/8 inch from each ge. Trim