1、BSI Standards PublicationBS EN ISO 16373-1:2015Textiles DyestuffsPart 1: General principles of testingcoloured textiles for dyestuff identificationBS EN ISO 16373-1:2015 BRITISH STANDARDNational forewordThis British Standard is the UK implementation of EN ISO16373-1:2015.The UK participation in its
2、preparation was entrusted to TechnicalCommittee TCI/80, Chemical testing of textiles.A list of organizations represented on this committee can beobtained on request to its secretary.This publication does not purport to include all the necessaryprovisions of a contract. Users are responsible for its
3、correctapplication. The British Standards Institution 2016.Published by BSI Standards Limited 2016ISBN 978 0 580 79945 7ICS 59.080.01Compliance with a British Standard cannot confer immunity fromlegal obligations.This British Standard was published under the authority of theStandards Policy and Stra
4、tegy Committee on 31 January 2016.Amendments/corrigenda issued since publicationDate Text affectedEUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORMEN ISO 16373-1 December 2015 ICS 59.080.01 English Version Textiles - Dyestuffs - Part 1: General principles of testing coloured textiles for dyestuff id
5、entification (ISO 16373-1:2015) Textiles - Colorants - Partie 1: Principes gnraux dessais des textiles colors pour lidentification des colorants (ISO 16373-1:2015) Textilien - Farbstoffe - Teil 1: Allgemeine Grundlagen der Prfung farbiger Textilien zur Farbstoff-Identifikation (ISO 16373-1:2015) Thi
6、s European Standard was approved by CEN on 31 October 2015. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical refere
7、nces concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN
8、member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia,
9、 France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey andUnited Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPISCHE
10、S KOMITEE FR NORMUNG CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels 2015 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN ISO 16373-1:2015 EBS EN ISO 16373-1:2015EN ISO 16373-1:2015 (E) 3 European foreword This doc
11、ument (EN ISO 16373-1:2015) has been prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38 “Textiles“ in collaboration with Technical Committee CEN/TC 248 “Textiles and textile products” the secretariat of which is held by BSI. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by p
12、ublication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by June 2016, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by June 2016. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN and/or CENELEC sh
13、all not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, De
14、nmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom. Endorsement
15、notice The text of ISO 16373-1:2015 has been approved by CEN as EN ISO 16373-1:2015 without any modification. BS EN ISO 16373-1:2015ISO 16373-1:2015(E)Foreword ivIntroduction v1 Scope . 12 Normative references 13 Terms and definitions . 14 Fibre identification 25 Dye classes, based on the method of
16、applying the dye 25.1 Acid dye . 25.2 Metal complex acid dye 25.2.1 1:1 Metal complex dye 25.2.2 1:2 Metal complex dye 25.3 Azoic dye. 25.4 Basic dye (also called cationic dye) . 25.5 Mordant dye 35.6 Direct dye . 35.7 Disperse dye 35.8 Reactive dye . 35.8.1 General 35.8.2 Anthraquinone reactive dye
17、 . 35.9 Sulfur dye . 35.10 VAT dye 36 Complementary dye class, based on chemist classification: Azo dye 37 Reagents 48 Apparatus . 59 Conditioning and testing atmosphere 510 Preparation of the test specimens . 511 Procedures (examples) 511.1 Pigment identification 511.2 Finishing removal treatment 5
18、11.3 Acid dyes, basic, direct dyes and reactive dyes 511.4 VAT dyes, sulfur dyes, reactive dyes, aniline black, azoic dyes, direct dyes, developed disperse dyes and chrome dyes 511.5 Metal-complex dyes and disperse dyes . 511.6 Extraction test 511.7 Ash test 511.8 Miscellaneous tests . 612 Testing r
19、eport 6Annex A (informative) Explanatory table of colourants (dyes and pigments) used in various textile materials .13Annex B (informative) Comparison between ISO 16373-2 and ISO 16373-3: Recovery rates 15Bibliography .17 ISO 2015 All rights reserved iiiContents PageBS EN ISO 16373-1:2015ISO 16373-1
20、:2015(E)ForewordISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for wh
21、ich a technical committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work. ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all
22、matters of electrotechnical standardization.The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular the different approval criteria needed for the different types of ISO documents should be noted. This
23、 document was drafted in accordance with the editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directives).Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or a
24、ll such patent rights. Details of any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www.iso.org/patents).Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users an
25、d does not constitute an endorsement.For an explanation on the meaning of ISO specific terms and expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISOs adherence to the WTO principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) see the following URL: Foreword - Supplementary in
26、formationISO 16373-1 was prepared by the European Committee for Standardization (CEN) Technical Committee CEN/TC 248, Textiles and textile products, in collaboration with ISO Technical Committee TC 38, Textiles, in accordance with the Agreement on technical cooperation between ISO and CEN (Vienna Ag
27、reement).ISO 16373 consists of the following parts, under the general title Textiles Dyestuffs: Part 1: General principles of testing coloured textiles for dyestuff identification Part 2: General method for the determination of extractable dyestuffs including allergenic and carcinogenic dyestuffs (m
28、ethod using pyridine-water) Part 3: Method for determination of certain carcinogenic dyestuffs (method using triethylamine/methanol)iv ISO 2015 All rights reservedBS EN ISO 16373-1:2015ISO 16373-1:2015(E)IntroductionThe ISO 16373- series deals with dyes used in textiles for qualification and quantif
29、ication.This part of ISO 16373 includes the definition of the classes of dyes, the description of some procedures to identify qualitatively the class of dyes used in textile material.The other parts of ISO 16373 are related to the quantification of some dyes. The principle of the test method in ISO
30、16373-2 is based on the extraction using pyridine-water solution, which has been found to be the most efficient solution to extract a large range of dyes, including allergenic and carcinogenic dyes. The principle of the test method in ISO 16373-3 is based on the extraction using triethylamine-methan
31、ol solution. This solution has been found efficient to extract some dyes in some cases.Additional information related to the recovery rates (to characterize the extraction efficiency) obtained from the application of ISO 16373-2 and ISO 16373-3 are summarized in Annex B.It is important to note that
32、there are other test methods related to azo dyes, for which a reduction of the extracted azo dyes leads to the release of some aromatic amines to be detected and determined using chromatography (See Bibliography/Aromatic amines determination). ISO 2015 All rights reserved vBS EN ISO 16373-1:2015BS E
33、N ISO 16373-1:2015Textiles Dyestuffs Part 1: General principles of testing coloured textiles for dyestuff identificationWARNING This document calls for the use of substances/procedures that may be injurious to the health/environment if appropriate conditions are not observed. It refers only to techn
34、ical suitability and does not absolve the user from legal obligations relating to health and safety/environment at any stage.1 ScopeThis part of ISO 16373 gives the definition of the colourant classes and the relationship to textile fibres.It describes some procedures to identify qualitatively the c
35、olourant class used in textile material.2 Normative referencesThe following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the r
36、eferenced document (including any amendments) applies.ISO 3696, Water for analytical laboratory use Specification and test methodsISO 5089, Textiles Preparation of laboratory test samples and test specimens for chemical testing3 Terms and definitionsFor the purposes of this document, the following t
37、erms and definitions apply.3.1colourantdye or pigment3.2dyedyestuffwater-insoluble or water-soluble molecule which has dyeing affinity with fibreNote 1 to entry: The defining difference between a dye and a pigment is its solubility in an aqueous medium. In this part of ISO 16373, the term “affinity”
38、 is used as a qualitative expression, although affinity is the quantitative expression of substantivity and usually expressed in Joules per mole, where substantivity is the attraction between a substrate and a dye or other substance under precise conditions where the latter is selectively extracted
39、from the application medium by the substrate.INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 16373-1:2015(E) ISO 2015 All rights reserved 1BS EN ISO 16373-1:2015ISO 16373-1:2015(E)3.3pigmentwater-insoluble molecule which has no dyeing affinity with fibreNote 1 to entry: The defining difference between a dye and a pigmen
40、t is its solubility in an aqueous medium. In this part of ISO 16373, the term “affinity” is used as a qualitative expression, although affinity is the quantitative expression of substantivity and usually expressed in Joules per mole, where substantivity is the attraction between a substrate and a dy
41、e or other substance under precise conditions where the latter is selectively extracted from the application medium by the substrate.4 Fibre identificationPrior to any colourant identification (including dye class), the fibre nature of the textile product shall be known. The fibre nature may be base
42、d on information given by manufacturer, etc. or can be identified, using one or more techniques as described in ISO/TR 11827, for example.An explanatory table of colourants used in various textile materials is given in Annex A.5 Dye classes, based on the method of applying the dye5.1 Acid dyeAcid dy
43、e is water-soluble anionic dye using neutral to acid dye baths. Attachment to the fibre (e.g. protein fibres and polyamide fibres) is attributed, at least partly, to salt formation between anionic groups in the dye and cationic groups in the fibre.5.2 Metal complex acid dyeA metal complex dye is an
44、acid dye that has a coordinate metal atom in its molecule.5.2.1 1:1 Metal complex dye1 molecule of dye is combined with 1 metal ion.5.2.2 1:2 Metal complex dye2 molecules of dye are combined with 1 metal ion. 1:2 metal complex dyes are the most frequent.5.3 Azoic dyeAzoic dye is water-insoluble dye
45、which is formed on the fibre by coupling a water-soluble diazo compound with a water soluble coupling compound having affinity for cellulose.NOTE 1 The definition of the class “azoic dye” (dyers classification) is distinct from the definition of the class “azo dye” (see Clause 6, chemist classificat
46、ion).NOTE 2 For the French version, the term “azoic dye” should be translated by “colorant azoque insoluble” (known as well as “colorant naphtol”) in order to make a clear distinction with the translation of “azo dye” by “colorant azoque”.5.4 Basic dye (also called cationic dye)Basic dye is water-so
47、luble cationic dye using neutral to acid dye baths. Attachment to the fibre (e.g. acrylic) is attributed, at least partly, to salt formation between cationic groups in the dye and anionic groups in the fibre.2 ISO 2015 All rights reservedBS EN ISO 16373-1:2015ISO 16373-1:2015(E)5.5 Mordant dyeDye ca
48、pable of forming a chelate complex with a metal ion (e.g. chromium) thus forming a metal complex dye in situ within the fibre.NOTE Due to the toxicity of residual chromium ions in waste water, this kind of treatment is usually strictly controlled.5.6 Direct dyeAn anionic dye that interacts with the
49、fibre (e.g. cellulosic fibre, polyamide fibres) by mechanical adsorption, normally applied from an aqueous bath containing electrolyte5.7 Disperse dyeA water insoluble dye having affinity for hydrophobic fibres (e.g. polyester and acetate fibres).NOTE The dyes are finely ground in the presence of a dispersing agent and sold as a paste, or spray-dried and sold as a powder. The very fine particle size gives a large surface area that aids dissolution to allow uptake by the fibre.5.8 Reactive dye5.8.1 GeneralReactive dye contains specific re
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