1、BRITISH STANDARDBS EN ISO 17693:2005Footwear Test methods for uppers Resistance to damage on lastingThe European Standard EN ISO 17693:2005 has the status of a British StandardICS 61.060g49g50g3g38g50g51g60g44g49g42g3g58g44g55g43g50g56g55g3g37g54g44g3g51g40g53g48g44g54g54g44g50g49g3g40g59g38g40g51g5
2、5g3g36g54g3g51g40g53g48g44g55g55g40g39g3g37g60g3g38g50g51g60g53g44g42g43g55g3g47g36g58BS EN ISO 17693:2005This British Standard was published under the authority of the Standards Policy and Strategy Committee on 9 March 2006 BSI 9 March 2006ISBN 0 580 47854 8National forewordThis British Standard is
3、 the official English language version of EN ISO 17693:2005. It is identical with ISO 17693:2004. It supersedes BS EN 13511:2002 which is withdrawn.The UK participation in its preparation was entrusted to Technical Committee TCI/69, Footwear, leather and coated fabrics, which has the responsibility
4、to: A list of organizations represented on this committee can be obtained on request to its secretary.Cross-referencesThe British Standards which implement international or European publications referred to in this document may be found in the BSI Catalogue under the section entitled “International
5、Standards Correspondence Index”, or by using the “Search” facility of the BSI Electronic Catalogue or of British Standards Online.This publication does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users are responsible for its correct application. Compliance with a British Stan
6、dard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. aid enquirers to understand the text; present to the responsible international/European committee any enquiries on the interpretation, or proposals for change, and keep UK interests informed; monitor related international and European d
7、evelopments and promulgate them in the UK.Summary of pagesThis document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, the EN ISO title page, the EN ISO foreword page, the ISO title page, pages ii and iii, a blank page, pages 1 to 5 and a back cover.The BSI copyright notice displayed in this docume
8、nt indicates when the document was last issued.Amendments issued since publicationAmd. No. Date CommentsEUROPEAN STANDARDNORME EUROPENNEEUROPISCHE NORMEN ISO 17693September 2005ICS 61.060 Supersedes EN 13511:2001English VersionFootwear - Test methods for uppers - Resistance to damage onlasting (ISO
9、17693:2004)Chaussures - Mthodes dessai des tiges - Aptitude aumontage (ISO 17693:2004)Schuhe - Prfverfahren fr Obermaterialien -Aufzwickbarkeit (ISO 17693:2004)This European Standard was approved by CEN on 26 August 2005.CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which
10、 stipulate the conditions for giving this EuropeanStandard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such nationalstandards may be obtained on application to the Central Secretariat or to any CEN member.This European Standard
11、 exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translationunder the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the Central Secretariat has the same status as the officialversions.CEN members are the national standards b
12、odies of Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France,Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia,Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR
13、 STANDARDIZATIONCOMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATIONEUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNGManagement Centre: rue de Stassart, 36 B-1050 Brussels 2005 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reservedworldwide for CEN national Members.Ref. No. EN ISO 17693:2005: EForeword The text of ISO 17693:2
14、004 has been prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 216 “Footwear“ of the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) and has been taken over as EN ISO 17693:2005 by Technical Committee CEN/TC 309 “Footwear“, the secretariat of which is held by AFNOR. This European Standard shall be given t
15、he status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by March 2006, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by March 2006. This document supersedes EN 13511:2001. According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, t
16、he national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Pol
17、and, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom. Endorsement noticeThe text of ISO 17693:2004 has been approved by CEN as EN ISO 17693:2005 without any modifications.EN ISO 17693:2005Reference numberISO 17693:2004(E)INTERNATIONALSTANDARDISO17693First edition2004-10-1
18、5Footwear Test methods for uppers Resistance to damage on lasting Chaussures Mthodes dessai des tiges Aptitude au montage EN ISO 17693:2005iiiiiForeword ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of pr
19、eparing International Standards is normally carried out through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International organizations, governmental and non-governmental, i
20、n liaison with ISO, also take part in the work. ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of electrotechnical standardization. International Standards are drafted in accordance with the rules given in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2. The main tas
21、k of technical committees is to prepare International Standards. Draft International Standards adopted by the technical committees are circulated to the member bodies for voting. Publication as an International Standard requires approval by at least 75 % of the member bodies casting a vote. Attentio
22、n is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. ISO 17693 was prepared by the European Committee for Standardization as EN 13511:2001. This International Sta
23、ndard includes corrigendum EN 13511:2001/AC:2003 and was adopted under a special “fast-track procedure” by Technical Committee ISO/TC 216, Footwear in parallel with its approval by the ISO member bodies. Throughout the text of this document, read “.this European Standard.” to mean “.this Internation
24、al Standard.”. EN ISO 17693:2005blank11 ScopeThis European Standard specifies a test method to determine the lastability of uppers or complete upper assemblyirrespective of the material in order to assess the suitability for the end use.2 Normative referencesThis European Standard incorporates by da
25、ted or undated reference, provisions from other publications. Thesenormative references are cited at the appropriate places in the text, and the publications are listed hereafter. Fordated references, subsequent amendments to or revisions of any of these publications apply to this EuropeanStandard o
26、nly when incorporated in it by amendment or revision. For undated references the latest edition of thepublication referred to applies (including amendments).EN 12222, Footwear - Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing of footwear and components forfootwear.prEN ISO 2418, Leather - Chemical
27、, physical, mechanical and fastness tests Sampling.3 Terms and definitionsFor the purposes of this European Standard, the following terms and definitions apply.3.1resistance to damage on lastingability of a material to be stretched simultaneously in all directions (distended) without being damaged3.
28、2uppermaterials forming the outer face of the footwear which is attached to the sole assembly and covers the upper dorsalsurface of the foot. In the case of boots this also includes the outer face of the material covering the leg. Only thematerials that are visible are included, no account should be
29、 taken of underlying materials3.3complete upper assemblyfinished upper, fully seamed, joined or laminated together as appropriate, comprising the centre material and anylining(s) together with all components such as interlinings, adhesives, membranes, foams or reinforcements, butexcluding toe puffs
30、and stiffenersNOTE The complete upper assembly can be flat, 2- dimensional or comprise lasted upper in the final footwear.4 Apparatus and materialThe following apparatus and material shall be used:4.1 Test machine (see Figures 1 and 2), including the following:4.1.1 Means of clamping the test specim
31、en round its edge leaving a central circular free area of diameter25,00 mm G01 0,5 mm. The design of the clamping system of the machine shall ensure that the test specimen doesnot slip during the test, and shall neither stretch nor compress the central area of the test specimen as it isclamped.EN IS
32、O 17693:20052Dimensions in millimetresKey1 Cap2 Clamp ring3 Head Figure 1 Details of clamp and headAll dimensions 0,025 mm4 Rod and ball5 BoreEN ISO 17693:20053Figure 2 Cross Section of clamping head with test piece in position4.1.2 Moveable plunger with a 6,25 mm 0,05 mm diameter spherical ball on
33、the end.4.1.3 Means of moving the plunger relative to the test specimen clamp at a speed of 0,20 mm/s 0,05 mm/s.4.1.4 Means of monitoring the distension (travel of the plunger from zero) to an accuracy of 0,05 mm.4.1.5 Means of monitoring the force on the plunger within the range 0 N to 800 N to an
34、accuracy of 10 N.4.2 Press knife or similar means for cutting test specimens.5 Sampling and conditioning5.1 Test specimens shall be of a sufficient size to allow them to be clamped firmly on the test machine (see 4.1),so that they do not slip during the test.In the case of leather use prEN ISO 2418
35、to select the sampling position from the butt region of the skin or side.For non-leather materials cut 3 test specimens from a range of positions across the full usable width and length ofthe sheet material. For a material with a woven structure this shall prevent any two test specimens containing t
36、hesame warp or weft threads.5.2 For test specimens from footwear uppers, they shall not be cut from any areas containing seams orperforations and any other design features which mean that the test specimen will not be of uniform thicknessacross its entire surface area. Furthermore, no test specimens
37、 shall be cut from areas of finished shoe upperswhich are subjected to strains during lasting, especially the toe and backpart areas. Test specimens shall beprepared from complete upper assemblies when the lining material is permanently attached to the upper material.EN ISO 17693:20054It can be that
38、 it is impossible to cut a test specimen of sufficient size from certain types of footwear especiallychildrens and the test specimen size shall not be reduced. If it is not possible to cut the correct size test specimenfrom a shoe upper the materials themselves shall be tested.5.3 Place the test spe
39、cimens in a conditioned environment as specified in EN 12222 for 24 h prior to test andcarry out the test in this atmosphere.6 Test method6.1 PrincipleA circular test specimen is clamped round its edge and is gradually distended by forcing a small metal ball attachedto a plunger through the test spe
40、cimen. At a certain distension, measured in terms of distance travelled by theplunger, either cracks appear in the surface of the material or a layer of the material sustains permanent physicaldamage; this distension is recorded as the first damage point.At a higher distension the material usually b
41、ursts and this distension can also be recorded. Throughout the test thetravel of, and force on the plunger is monitored so that if required a plot of force against distension can beproduced.6.2 Procedure6.2.1 Ensure the test machine is set with the central plunger retracted to zero or minimum disten
42、sion. If it has amaximum force pointer turn it to zero.6.2.2 Tightly clamp the test specimen into the test machine so that the ball ended plunger acts on the reverseside of the test specimen (i.e. when testing grain leathers, the ball ended plunger will press against the flesh side ofthe leather) an
43、d the test specimen is flat.6.2.3 For some thick test specimens a very high clamping force may be necessary whereas with thin testspecimens care is required to avoid cutting into the test specimen.6.2.4 Force the plunger into the test specimen at a rate of 0,20 mm/s 0,05 mm/s.6.2.5 Record the point
44、of first damage as the plunger stretches the test specimen as follows:a) When testing leathers the first damage usually occurs in the finish or the surface of the grain. Hence during thetest continually observe the surface of the test specimen, at the centre where the maximum distension is takingpla
45、ce. At the first sign of surface cracking, record the force on the plunger and the distension of the testspecimen. However, if the grain is still intact, continue until grain crack occurs and record also the distensionand force at this point.Patent leather is a special case because often the grain o
46、f the leather cracks before the patent surface film.Particular care is therefore required when observing patent leather test specimens. Two indications of the graincracking are a small shallow depression in the surface of the film above the crack and a momentary drop in theforce on the plunger. If t
47、he patent film cracks this shall also be regarded as a “grain crack” whether or not acrack in the grain is visible.b) When testing non-leather materials such as coated fabrics the first damage usually occurs within the material,with no visible damage at the surface. Hence during the test continually
48、 observe the force on the plunger as thetest specimen is stretched. When damage occurs to a layer of the test specimen the force on the plunger eitherstops rising, or falls, however this may only be momentary. Record this value and the distension of the testspecimen at this point.6.2.6 If the bursti
49、ng point is required then continue to observe the test specimen and record the distension andforce when the spherical end first appears through the sample.6.2.7 Retract the plunger and remove the test specimen.EN ISO 17693:200556.2.8 Inspect the marks on the top of the test specimen left by the clamps. If there are signs of slippage occurringduring the test, for example evident by a blurring of clamping rings, or of tearing of the clamped edges; reject theresults and repeat the procedure with a new test specimen.6.2.9 Repeat the procedure for th
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