EN ISO 18103-2015 en Superfine woven wool fabric labelling - Requirements for Super S code definition《超细梭织羊毛织物标签 超细代码定义要求(ISO 18103 2015)》.pdf

1、BSI Standards PublicationBS EN ISO 18103:2015Superfine woven wool fabriclabelling Requirements forSuper S code definitionBS EN ISO 18103:2015 BRITISH STANDARDNational forewordThis British Standard is the UK implementation of EN ISO 18103:2015.The UK participation in its preparation was entrusted to

2、Technical Committee TCI/80, Chemical testing of textiles.A list of organizations represented on this committee can be obtained on request to its secretary.This publication does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users are responsible for its correct application. The B

3、ritish Standards Institution 2015.Published by BSI Standards Limited 2015ISBN 978 0 580 79155 0 ICS 59.080.30 Compliance with a British Standard cannot confer immunity from legal obligations.This British Standard was published under the authority of the Standards Policy and Strategy Committee on 31

4、March 2015.Amendments/corrigenda issued since publicationDate T e x t a f f e c t e dEUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORM EN ISO 18103 March 2015 ICS 59.080.30 Supersedes CWA 16336:2011English Version Superfine woven wool fabric labelling - Requirements for Super S code definition (ISO

5、18103:2015) Etiquetage des toffes tisses de laine superfine - Exigences de dfinition de la codification Super S (ISO 18103:2015) Kennzeichnung von Gewebe aus superfeiner Wolle - Anforderungen an die Definition fr den Super S-Code (ISO 18103:2015) This European Standard was approved by CEN on 7 Febru

6、ary 2015. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obt

7、ained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the C

8、EN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Irelan

9、d, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and United Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNG CEN-CENELEC Management Centr

10、e: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels 2015 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN ISO 18103:2015 EBS EN ISO 18103:2015EN ISO 18103:2015 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN ISO 18103:2015) has been prepared by Technical Committ

11、ee ISO/TC 38 “Textiles“ incollaboration with Technical Committee CEN/TC 248 “Textiles and textile products” the secretariat of which isheld by BSI. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identicaltext or by endorsement, at the latest by S

12、eptember 2015, and conflicting national standards shall bewithdrawn at the latest by September 2015. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patentrights. CEN and/or CENELEC shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such p

13、atent rights. This document supersedes CWA 16336:2011. According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the followingcountries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, CzechRepublic, Denmark, Estonia, Finlan

14、d, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece,Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal,Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom. Endorsement notice The text of ISO 1

15、8103:2015 has been approved by CEN as EN ISO 18103:2015 without any modification. BS EN ISO 18103:2015ISO 18103:2015(E)Foreword ivIntroduction v1 Scope .12 Normative references 13 Terms and definitions .14 “Super S” labelling code requirements 15 Test method for the determination of mean fibre diame

16、ter.25.1 Woven fabric sampling . 25.2 Preparation of the test specimen (snippets) . 35.3 Test method . 35.4 Precision data . 3Annex A (informative) Example of labelling information to be provided by suppliers of fabric and garments 4Annex B (informative) Precision data .5Bibliography 8 ISO 2015 All

17、rights reserved iiiContents PageBS EN ISO 18103:2015ISO 18103:2015(E)ForewordISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out through ISO technica

18、l committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work. ISO collaborates closely wit

19、h the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of electrotechnical standardization.The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular the different approval criteria needed f

20、or the different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directives).Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent right

21、s. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www.iso.org/patents). Any trade name used in this

22、 document is information given for the convenience of users and does not constitute an endorsement.For an explanation on the meaning of ISO specific terms and expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISOs adherence to the WTO principles in the Technical Barriers to

23、Trade (TBT) see the following URL: Foreword - Supplementary informationISO 18103 was prepared by European Committee for Standardization (CEN) in collaboration with ISO/TC 38, Textiles, in accordance with the Agreement on technical cooperation between ISO and CEN (Vienna Agreement).iv ISO 2015 All ri

24、ghts reservedBS EN ISO 18103:2015ISO 18103:2015(E)IntroductionThis International Standard has been developed from a CEN Workshop Agreement, CWA 16336 published in September 2011,3which was itself based on the International Wool Textile Organization Fabric Labelling Code of Practice: Quality Definiti

25、ons Relating to “Super S”.7The “Super S” classification for the fineness of wool in woven fabrics and garments goes back to the traditional English wool grading system as used by the trade in Bradford, England. The foundations of this system can be described as follows: a yarn, to be even and strong

26、 enough for weaving, must contain a certain minimum number of fibres in its cross section. Therefore, with coarse wool fibres it is possible to obtain only coarse yarns, while with the fine ones very thin yarns can be spun. This criterion is the basis of the wool fineness classification. If wool is

27、classified as Super 120s”, for example, it means that 1 pound of fibre will produce 120 hanks of yarn, each of which is 560 yards long. With a coarser wool the yarn would be thicker and the number of hanks lower (for instance 80), with a still finer wool on the contrary the hanks would be more numer

28、ous (for instance 150). At the beginning of this century, the International Wool Textile Organization (IWTO) officially and precisely codified the fineness classes by fixing for each one of them a maximum limit in microns of mean fibre diameter.As wool is processed, the diameter of the original fibr

29、e used in producing a woven fabric may change due to structural modification of the fibre and the possible effects of chemicals used during processing, etc. Consequently, the mean fibre diameter of the fibre extracted from the fabric can be different from the mean fibre diameter of the fibre used to

30、 spin the yarn used in the fabric.Wool weavers supply their clients with statements concerning the fineness and, on request, with “Super S” label to be sewn inside garments made with the “Super S” cloth. This is a voluntary label, but it has to correspond with the code of practice. The fine wool is

31、very expensive, but with it light, soft fabrics of high wearability and elegance can be produced. A false classification is an act of unfair competition towards the honest producers and an unfair and deceptive practice to consumers. The whole chain of production for wool textiles from the grower thr

32、ough to the garment manufacturer will benefit from a proper understanding and application of the “Super S” code. In addition, retailers and consumers will be protected from fraud or misunderstandings which originate from ignorance of the classification system.NOTE 1 pound is equivalent to 0,453 kg;

33、1 yard is equivalent to 0,914 m. ISO 2015 All rights reserved vBS EN ISO 18103:2015BS EN ISO 18103:2015Superfine woven wool fabric labelling Requirements for Super S code definition1 ScopeThis International Standard defines the requirements of the “Super S” labelling code for finished woven fabric m

34、ade from pure virgin wool and the test method to determine this.2 Normative referencesThe following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the

35、 latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. ISO 137, Wool Determination of fibre diameter Projection microscope method3 Terms and definitionsFor the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.3.1woolfibre from sheeps or lambs fleeces (Ovis

36、 aries)Note 1 to entry: Although legislation in the European Union and in some other countries provides that the term “wool” may be used to indicate a mixture of fibres from sheeps or lambs fleeces and the hairs of other animals such as alpaca, llama, camel, kashmir goat, angora goat, angora rabbit,

37、 vicuna, yak, guanaco, cashgora goat, beaver, and otter, the use of the term “wool” in the context of “Super S” labelling is restricted to fibres from sheeps or lambs fleeces only.3.2pure virgin wool fabricwoven fabric produced wholly from shorn wool which has not previously been spun into yarn or f

38、elted nor previously incorporated into a finished product4 “Super S” labelling code requirementsIn the labelling of fabrics, the word Super (as in Super 100s for example) can only be used to describe woven fabrics made from pure virgin wool, and the “Super S” value is determined by, and shall not ex

39、ceed the mean wool fibre diameter values indicated in Table 1.For an explanation of the origin of the “Super S” classification, see Introduction (2nd paragraph).INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 18103:2015(E) ISO 2015 All rights reserved 1BS EN ISO 18103:2015ISO 18103:2015(E)Table 1 “Super S” mean wool fib

40、re diameter values“Super S” value Maximum mean fibre diameteraSuper 80s 19,50 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 90s 19,00 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 100s 18,50 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 110s 18,00 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 120s 17,50 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 130s 17,00 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 140s 1

41、6,50 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 150s 16,00 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 160s 15,50 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 170s 15,00 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 180s 14,50 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 190s 14,00 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 200s 13,50 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 210s 13,00 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 22

42、0s 12,50 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 230s 12,00 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 240s 11,50 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 250s 11,00 m (+0,25 m tolerance)aThe +0,25 m is the positive tolerance which has been established as inherent in the test method. The total tolerance of results is (+) or () 0,5 m, but sin

43、ce the specification is concerned only with the maximum permissible diameter, the negative tolerance of 0,25 m is not required.Determination of mean fibre diameter values shall be carried out according to the test method indicated in Clause 5.The inclusion of up to 5 % in weight of non-wool yarn for

44、 decorative effects is permitted.NOTE It is appreciated that the tolerance for non-wool decorative fibres provided for in the legislation of the European Union and some other countries is greater than 5 %. However, in the context of “Super S” labelling it is felt that a tolerance of 5 % of non-wool

45、yarn is more appropriate.5 Test method for the determination of mean fibre diameter5.1 Woven fabric samplingThe sampling is based on the selection of fabric pieces cut from either fabric or a garment. The samples shall be representative of the whole fabric or garment.Take a minimum of three separate

46、 squares, each to be composed of different warp threads and weft threads, the size, with a tolerance of 0,02 cm, depending on the mass per unit area of the fabric and in proportion to both thread type (colour, count) and warp/weft respective masses.The size of each square shall be determined such th

47、at whole threads from the square fully pack the slot of the fibre microtome (as described in ISO 137).NOTE The size could be between 3 cm 3 cm and 5 cm 5 cm.2 ISO 2015 All rights reservedBS EN ISO 18103:2015ISO 18103:2015(E)Determination of mean fibre diameter values shall be carried out according t

48、o ISO 137 and the sampling shall be done as described here below.5.2 Preparation of the test specimen (snippets)The fabric samples shall be trimmed square to the warp and weft.Unravel whole warp and weft threads from one fabric sample.The snippet subsamples (test specimen) shall be obtained from who

49、le unravelled warp and weft threads which have to be inserted in the fibre microtome (as described in ISO 137).The snippets should be cut at approximately 0,4 mm length, using the appropriate fibre pusher (as described in ISO 137) and place on a slide.Repeat the preparation of the snippets on other slides for the other fabric samples.5.3 Test methodThe determination of mean fibre diameter values shall be carried out according to ISO 137.NOTE ISO 137 is a test method equivalent to IWTO-8.The fina