EN ISO 23606-2009 en Textiles - Knitted fabrics - Representation and pattern design《纺织品 针织织物 表示法和图案设计》.pdf

1、BS EN ISO 23606:2009ICS 59.080.30NO COPYING WITHOUT BSI PERMISSION EXCEPT AS PERMITTED BY COPYRIGHT LAWBRITISH STANDARDTextiles Knitted fabrics Representation and pattern designIncorporating Corrigendum August 2009This British Standard was published under the authority of the Standards Policy and St

2、rategy Committee on 31 May 2009. BSI 2009ISBN 978 0 580 68732 7Amendments/corrigenda issued since publicationDate CommentsBS EN ISO 23606:2009National forewordThis British Standard is the UK implementation of EN ISO 23606:2009. The UK participation in its preparation was entrusted to TechnicalCommit

3、tee TCI/66, Apparel and interior textiles.A list of organizations represented on this committee can be obtained onrequest to its secretary.This publication does not purport to include all the necessary provisionsof a contract. Users are responsible for its correct application. Compliance with a Brit

4、ish Standard cannot confer immunityfrom legal obligations.31 August 2009Correction to missing CEN and ISO pages 3 and 4EUROPEAN STANDARDNORME EUROPENNEEUROPISCHE NORMEN ISO 23606March 2009ICS 59.080.30English VersionTextiles - Knitted fabrics - Representation and pattern design(ISO 23606:2009)Textil

5、es - toffes tricotes - Reprsentation et mise encarte (ISO/FDIS 23606:2009)Textilien - Maschenstoffe - Darstellungsformen undPatronierung (ISO 23606:2009)This European Standard was approved by CEN on 19 February 2009.CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stip

6、ulate the conditions for giving this EuropeanStandard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such nationalstandards may be obtained on application to the CEN Management Centre or to any CEN member.This European Standard ex

7、ists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translationunder the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN Management Centre has the same status as theofficial versions.CEN members are the national standards bo

8、dies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland,France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal,Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.EURO

9、PEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATIONCOMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATIONEUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNGManagement Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels 2009 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reservedworldwide for CEN national Members.Ref. No. EN ISO 23606:2009: EEN ISO 23606:200

10、9 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN ISO 23606:2009) has been prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38 “Textiles“ in collaboration with Technical Committee CEN/TC 248 “Textiles and textile products”, the secretariat of which is held by BSI. This European Standard shall be given the status of a nation

11、al standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by September 2009, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by September 2009. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of pa

12、tent rights. CEN and/or CENELEC shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, C

13、yprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom. Endorsement notice The text of ISO

14、 23606:2009 has been approved by CEN as a EN ISO 23606:2009 without any modification. BS EN ISO 23606:2009ISO 23606:2009(E) ISO 2009 All rights reserved iiiContents Page Foreword iv 1 Scope . 1 2 Terms and definitions. 1 3 Weft-knitted fabrics 2 3.1 Representation 2 3.2 Basic rules of representation

15、 3 3.3 Pattern draft grids. 4 3.4 Symbols for representation . 6 3.5 Auxiliary signs 8 4 Warp-knitted fabrics . 9 4.1 Representation 9 4.2 Basic rules for representations and denominations. 12 Bibliography . 13 BS EN ISO 23606:2009ISO 23606:2009(E) iv ISO 2009 All rights reservedForeword ISO (the In

16、ternational Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical committee h

17、as been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work. ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of electrotechnical

18、 standardization. International Standards are drafted in accordance with the rules given in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2. The main task of technical committees is to prepare International Standards. Draft International Standards adopted by the technical committees are circulated to the member bodi

19、es for voting. Publication as an International Standard requires approval by at least 75 % of the member bodies casting a vote. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any

20、or all such patent rights. ISO 23606 was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38, Textiles, Subcommittee SC 20, Fabric descriptions. BS EN ISO 23606:2009INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 23606:2009(E) ISO 2009 All rights reserved 1Textiles Knitted fabrics Representation and pattern design 1 Scope This In

21、ternational Standard specifies various systems of symbolic notation and pattern design for knitted fabrics. The symbolic notations contained in this International Standard do not necessarily constitute the only method of representation. 2 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the

22、following terms and definitions apply. 2.1 knitted fabrics generic name applied to textile fabrics in which at least one system of threads is formed into knitted loops and the knitted loops are intermeshed into stitches ISO 8388:1998, definition 3.0.1 NOTE Knitting machines classified according to I

23、SO 7839 are used. 2.2 weft-knitted fabrics generic name applied to knitted fabrics in which the stitches made by each thread are formed substantially across the width of the fabric NOTE 1 Weft-knitted fabrics are characterised by the fact that each weft thread is fed more or less at right angles to

24、the direction in which the fabric is produced. ISO 8388:1998, definition 3.0.2 NOTE 2 Weft-knitted fabrics are manufactured on flat or circular weft-knitting machines as classified in ISO 7839. 2.3 warp-knitted fabrics generic name applied to knitted fabrics in which the stitches made from each warp

25、 thread are formed substantially along the length of the fabric NOTE 1 Warp-knitted fabrics are characterised by the fact that each warp thread is fed more or less in line with the direction in which the fabric is produced. ISO 8388:1998, definition 3.0.3 NOTE 2 Warp-knitted fabrics are manufactured

26、 on flat or circular warp knitting machines as classified in ISO 7839. NOTE 3 Stitch-bonded fabrics are a special variation of warp-knitted fabrics manufactured on flat warp knitting machines in accordance with ISO 8640-4, which are equipped with stitch-through compound needles, etc. BS EN ISO 23606

27、:2009ISO 23606:2009(E) 2 ISO 2009 All rights reserved3 Weft-knitted fabrics 3.1 Representation Term No. Term Definition, example 3.1.1 loop structure magnified, two-dimensional line representation of the yarn path in a knitted construction EXAMPLE Single jersey-based fabric (technical reverse side).

28、 3.1.2 pattern draft diagrammatic representation of a knitted fabric carried out on a pattern drafting screen by taking stated divisions into account NOTE A distinction is made between a graphic pattern draft (3.1.2.1)and a technical pattern draft (3.1.2.2). 3.1.2.1 graphic pattern draft pictorial r

29、epresentation of a knitted fabric 3.1.2.2 technical pattern draft symbolic representation of the stitches of a knitted fabric read according to the manufacture of a knitted fabric from bottom to top NOTE 1 A technical pattern draft can be a two-dimensional representation on a grid or a linear repres

30、entation on matrix dots (yarn path). NOTE 2 A technical pattern draft is represented either as a construction pattern draft (3.1.2.2.1) or as a working pattern draft(3.1.2.2.2). 3.1.2.2.1 construction pattern draft symbolic representation of the structure of a knitted fabric 3.1.2.2.2 working patter

31、n draft symbolic representation of the working process according to the manufacture of the knitted fabric BS EN ISO 23606:2009ISO 23606:2009(E) ISO 2009 All rights reserved 33.2 Basic rules of representation 3.2.1 The two-dimensional representation and yarn path representation can be used simultaneo

32、usly or separately for the technical pattern drafting of a knitted fabric. The construction can either be represented according to the knitted structure (construction pattern draft) or according to the manufacture (working pattern draft). 3.2.2 The pattern draft is built up according to the yarn pat

33、h from bottom to top. To achieve the representation of the yarn path, start with the left needle of the front needle carrier and finish with the right needle of the rear needle carrier. Knitting machines with short and long needles in their needle carriers have a long, first needle in their front ne

34、edle carrier. 3.2.3 The technical pattern draft provides options of representation for each stitch element and its variations. The pattern draft can, however, be shortened by drafting the repeats of the ground pattern into the left bottom corner of the pattern draft field and by entering only the va

35、riation from the ground pattern in the remaining pattern draft fields (abbreviated representation). If in doubt, the complete representation is mandatory. 3.2.4 A horizontal row of the technical pattern draft is equivalent to a single manufactured stitch course. 3.2.5 A working pattern draft of, e.g

36、. a fleecy fabric, requires a multi-row design. 3.2.6 In two-dimensional representations of transfer stitches, an additional mark of the stitch side is applied for purl-based fabrics by appropriate symbols for the technical face side and the technical reverse side next to the symbol for transfer sti

37、tches. 3.2.7 Auxiliary signs that refer to a crosswise row of the pattern draft (course) shall be arranged on the right side of the pattern draft. Auxiliary signs that refer to a lengthwise row of the pattern draft (wale) shall be arranged below the pattern draft. Auxiliary signs referring to a symb

38、ol shall be arranged inside the pattern draft below the appropriate symbol. 3.2.8 The pattern draft shall contain at least one pattern repeat for height and width. The pattern repeat shall be marked. BS EN ISO 23606:2009ISO 23606:2009(E) 4 ISO 2009 All rights reserved3.3 Pattern draft grids 3.3.1 Pa

39、ttern draft grids for two-dimensional representation Term No. Term Definition, examplea3.3.1.1 square grid grid with regular field divisions at right angles 3.3.1.2 special grid across grid, applicable to rib-based fabrics, with irregular field divisions at right angles made up of a large horizontal

40、 and a small vertical rectangle at a time, arranged next to each other and alternately in parallel lengthwise rows NOTE The large horizontal rectangles are used to mark stitch elements or processes on the front needle carrier. The small vertical rectangles are used to mark stitch elements or process

41、es on the rear needle carrier. 3.3.1.3 special grid vertical grid, applicable to interlock-based fabrics, with irregular, rectangular field divisions (as per 3.3.1.2 but rotated by 90) NOTE The large vertical rectangles are used to mark stitch elements or processes on the front needle carrier. The s

42、mall horizontal rectangles are used to mark stitch elements or processes on the rear needle carrier. aThe examples given show three frequently used pattern grids. Depending on requirements, the line distances are different for individual pattern grids. BS EN ISO 23606:2009ISO 23606:2009(E) ISO 2009

43、All rights reserved 53.3.2 Pattern grids for yarn path representation Term No. Term Definition, examplea3.3.2.1 dot matrix straight-line grid, applicable to single jersey-based, purl-based and interlock-based fabrics, with parallel rows of dots according to the needle arrangement in the needle carri

44、ers 3.3.2.2 dot matrix transposed grid, applicable to rib-based fabrics, with transposed rows of dots according to the needle arrangement in the needle carriers aThe examples given show two frequently used pattern grids. Depending on requirements, the dot distances are different for individual patte

45、rn grids. BS EN ISO 23606:2009ISO 23606:2009(E) 6 ISO 2009 All rights reserved3.4 Symbols for representation Term No. Term Loop structure Yarn path representation Two-dimensional representation 3.4.1 needle welt 3.4.2 stitch technical face side technical reverse side 3.4.3 tuck loop technical face s

46、ide technical reverse side 3.4.4 float 3.4.5 weft inlay 3.4.6 warp inlay 3.4.7 transfer stitch 3.4.8 semi-transferred stitch; split stitch BS EN ISO 23606:2009ISO 23606:2009(E) ISO 2009 All rights reserved 7Term No. Term Loop structure Yarn path representation Two-dimensional representation 3.4.9 ex

47、panded stitch 3.4.10 transferred sinker loop 3.4.11 plated stitch 3.4.12 pile loop closed 3.4.13 long stitch technical face side technical reverse side 3.4.14 rib, 1/1 3.4.15 interlock BS EN ISO 23606:2009ISO 23606:2009(E) 8 ISO 2009 All rights reserved3.5 Auxiliary signs 3.5.1 Racking On a dot matr

48、ix transposed grid, racking is indicated by a horizontal arrow pointing in the direction of the racking. The length of the arrow indicates the number of needles for the displacement. Vertical lines indicate the relationship to the racked needle carrier (see Figure 1). Figure 1 Racking of the rear ne

49、edle carrier by two pitches to the right 3.5.2 Needle position and needle application A line in the lengthwise direction is used to indicate a needle in the working position. A horizontal cross is used to indicate a needle in the idle position (see Figure 2). Key | long needle short needle needle in idle position Figure 2 Needle position and application BS EN ISO 23606:2009ISO 23606:2009(E) ISO 2009 All rights reserved 94 Warp-knitted fabrics 4.1 Representation Term No. Term Definition, example 4.1.1 l