GMW GMW14129-2011 Sewing Thread Issue 2 English《缝纫线 第2次出版(英文版)》.pdf

1、 WORLDWIDE ENGINEERING STANDARDS Material Specification GMW14129 Sewing Thread Copyright 2011 General Motors Company All Rights Reserved November 2011 Originating Department: North American Engineering Standards Page 1 of 8 1 Scope 1.1 Material Description. This standard describes material suitable

2、for automotive sewing applications. 1.2 Symbols. The construction code or finish symbol defines the material construction and will be assigned by the appropriate materials engineer during initial construction approval. 1.3 Typical Applications. Sewing applications covered by this standard include: e

3、mbroidery, join sews, tack downs, seatbelt sews, hand-sews, serging yarns, and serge loopers. 1.4 Remarks. Not applicable 2 References Note: Only the latest approved standards are applicable unless otherwise specified. 2.1 External Standards/Specifications. ISO 105-A03 ISO 9001 ISO 105-B06 ISO/IEC 1

4、7025 ISO 105-X12 SAE J1960 2.2 GM Standards/Specifications. GMW3010 GMW3259 GMW3059 GMW3417 GMW3116 GMW6992 GMW3221 GMW14141 2.3 Additional References. TMC003 Material Safety Data Sheet guidance documents (available at ). 3 Requirements 3.1 General Requirements. 3.1.1 Standard Conditions (GMW3221, C

5、ode A). All test specimens shall be brought to equilibrium in standard conditions for temperature and moisture and tested in that state as defined in GMW3221, Code A, unless the test method indicates that standard conditioning is not required. Condition specimen for a minimum of 24 hours prior to te

6、sting until moisture equilibrium is reached. If specimens are tested outside the conditioned environment, they shall be tested within ten (10) minutes of removal. 3.1.2 Color and Pattern (GMW6992). The color, pattern, aesthetics and other related qualities shall be approved by the appropriate engine

7、ering department as an acceptable match to the standard when viewed under conditions set forth in GMW6992. See the appropriate Construction Specification for Pattern and Finish information. 3.1.2.1 Submission for Color and Construction Review. For each color, submit at least two card windings and a

8、10 cm sew-in to matching color leather or vinyl materials, to the appropriate Appearance Materials Engineer. Submit Lab Data Forms and Thread Construction Specification Form, Appendix A. 3.1.2.2 Lubrication Removal. The color and pattern must be evaluated in the expected end use condition. For examp

9、le, if there is a lubrication applied for the sewing process that is removed during the sewing process, it must also be removed on a representative sample before or during evaluation in a manner replicated by the sewing process. 3.1.2.3 Thread Match To Chart. GM may, at its discretion, recommend the

10、 substitution of one approved GM color for another depending on end use. The Thread Match to Chart recording acceptable substitutions can be found in . 3.1.3 Deviations from Defined Test Methods. Deviations from the conditions of any test method shall have been agreed upon between supplier and vehic

11、le manufacturer. All deviations shall be specified on the component drawings, material specifications, etc., and shall be indicated on test certificates, reports, etc. 3.1.4 Test Data. All testing is to be performed by a laboratory that conforms to ISO/IEC 17025 or ISO 9001 and is acceptable to Gene

12、ral Motors. Test reports must conform to Sections 5.10.2 and 5.10.3 of ISO/IEC 17025. Use of the attached test report (Appendix A, Tables A2 and A3) is preferred. A letter of conformance is required. Note: Conformance to ISO/IEC 17025 is defined as the laboratory meets the requirements, but may Copy

13、right General Motors Company Provided by IHS under license with General Motors CompanyNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-GM WORLDWIDE ENGINEERING STANDARDS GMW14129 Copyright 2011 General Motors Company All Rights Reserved November 2011 Page 2 of 8 not

14、 be formally recognized by an outside accreditation agency. 3.1.5 Types. Where stated, tests may be specific to a certain type of thread. Otherwise all methods apply to all thread types. Type 1: Threads used for interior trim sewing applications, applications include join sew and hand sew. Type 2: H

15、igh volume yarns such as those used for floor carpet serging applications. Type 3: Threads used for embroidery applications. Type 4: Sewing threads used for exterior sewing applications or high ultraviolet (UV) exposure interior trim applications. Type F: Functional or non color-keyed constructions

16、that are exempt from 3.2.1.2 degradation and 3.3 color properties. Type Z: Thread and yarn types that do not fit above type descriptions. Use and description is specified in appropriate Thread Construction Specification Form as found in Appendix A, Table A1. 3.1.6 Nominal Values. The nominal values

17、for typical applications are shown in Table 1. Actual values are to be specified in the appropriate Thread Construction Specification Form (Appendix A, Table A1). Table 1: Nominal Values 3.1.7 Thread Construction Specification. The required properties are dependent on the end use of the thread const

18、ruction. The specific requirements are specified by, and the material shall conform to, the appropriate thread construction specification. All fields of the Thread Construction Specification Form (Appendix A, Table A1) must be completed, input not applicable (N/A) for fields that do not apply. 3.2 C

19、onstruction Requirements. 3.2.1 Tensile and Elongation (GMW3010, Code C). Material shall be tested both as received and after the appropriate accelerated light exposure (see 3.3.1). Test five specimens, taken from at least 9 m apart from the spool, using a nip to nip jaw separation of 500 mm 5 mm. A

20、n initial tension shall be applied to the specimen sufficient to remove any slack but not enough to stretch the thread more than 0.1%. Report the average and the three (3) sigma variation. No individual test result shall be less than the minimum value required in the Thread Construction Specificatio

21、n, Appendix A, Table A1. Note: If automatic sampling equipment is used, three sets of five specimens should be tested where each set is taken from at least 20 m apart from the spool. The average of each set should be reported along with the three (3) sigma variation of all data points. 3.2.1.1 Tensi

22、le Strength. The required tensile strength is dependent on the end use of the thread construction. The specific requirement can be found on the appropriate Thread Construction Specification, Appendix A, Table A1. For new GM constructions, the material will be approved to a tensile strength requireme

23、nt established given the desired application and subsequently included on the Thread Construction Specification Form (Appendix A, Table A1). 3.2.1.2 Tensile Strength after Exposure. After Xenon exposure, 3.3.1.2, has been completed, the strength retention shall be 65% or greater of the as received r

24、esults for Type 1 and Type 4. All other thread types shall maintain at least 50% of the original as received tensile strength. Note: Type F functional or non color-keyed constructions are exempt from 3.2.1.2 tensile strength after exposure. 3.2.1.3 Elongation. The elongation shall be measured during

25、 the tensile test at break. Elongation values shall conform to values specified on the appropriate Thread Construction Specification Form (Appendix A, Table A1). 3.2.2 Yarn Size. Thread size, in linear density TEX, must be reported and maintained per appropriate Thread Construction Specification. 3.

26、2.3 Twist. Five specimens, taken from at least 9 m apart from the spool, shall be tested using a twist tester (Suter or equivalent). The gauge length shall be 255 mm 1.5 mm, and the tension applied through the non-rotating clamp shall be 30 grams A p p l i c a t i o nL i n e a r D e n si t y ( T E X

27、 )T e n si l e ( N )E l o n g a t i o n ( % )T y p eJ o i n 90 40 20 1H e a v y 90 55 20 1A i r b a g s / S e a t D e c o r a t i v e 135 89 25 1S e a t B e l t W e b b i n g 1 5 0 o r 1 3 5 100 22 1H a n d S e w i n g ( D e c o r a t i v e S t i t c h ) 200 125 22 1D e l u s t e r e d S e r g i n g

28、 Y a r n 280 75 30 2E mb r o i d e r y 30 17 20 3Copyright General Motors Company Provided by IHS under license with General Motors CompanyNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-GM WORLDWIDE ENGINEERING STANDARDS GMW14129 Copyright 2011 General Motors Comp

29、any All Rights Reserved November 2011 Page 3 of 8 of force. Requirements can be found on the appropriate Thread Construction Specification (Appendix A, Table A1). Report the results using the forms in Appendix A, Table A2 in average turns per 25 mm and overall twist direction. 3.2.4 Twist Balance. T

30、he thread shall twist loosely or not at all when one meter is drawn without tension from the side of the spool and looped on itself. 3.2.5 Finish The use of lubrication finish must be limited to amount needed for manufacture and sewing requirements. Report the percent lubricant and the percent resin

31、. Also include the method used to obtain the data. Individual requirements can be found on the appropriate Thread Construction Specification (Appendix A, Table A1). Note: If solvent extraction is used to determine the above information, the solvent must be reported. Note: Some thread applications do

32、 not allow the use of silicone based lubrications; threads for this purpose will be designated as such in the finish symbol, and specified on the Thread Construction Specification Form (Appendix A, Table A1). 3.2.6 Resistance to Mildew (GMW3259). Test a minimum 10 m sample of thread material to the

33、procedure of GMW3259. The threads shall show neither mildew growth nor exhibit mildew odor. 3.3 Color Requirements. Note: Functional or non color-keyed constructions are exempt from 3.3 color properties. 3.3.1 Colorfastness to Light. Prior to exposing, wrap a single layer of thread 50 mm wide parall

34、el to the long dimension around a 67 mm 140 mm piece of sample mounting card. An acceptable change in appearance is defined as noticeable value (lightness) and/or chroma (saturation) change with minimal hue change after exposure. An ISO 105-A03 gray scale rating of four (4) to five (5) may be used f

35、or guidance. 3.3.1.1 Natural Weathering Exposure (GMW3417). Samples are to be tested under glass to 105 K TNR Langleys (102 C) with intermediate results recorded at 12.5 K, 25 K and 65 K Langleys. 3.3.1.2 Interior Xenon Arc Method (ISO 105-B06, Condition 5). All threads are to conform to the testing

36、 conditions as specified on the individual Thread Construction Specification (Appendix A, Table A1). 3.3.1.3 Exterior Xenon Arc Method (SAE J1960). Test only for threads used on the exterior of the vehicle. Threads are to conform to the testing conditions as specified on the individual Thread Constr

37、uction Specification (Appendix A,Table A1). 3.3.2 Color Crock (ISO 105-X12). When subjected to ten (10) strokes (to and fro), the sample shall have a minimum rating of four (4) wet and four (4) dry in accordance to ISO 105-A03 gray scale. 3.3.3 Resistance to Color Transfer. Loosely wind approximatel

38、y 300 mm sample of sewing thread on a 50 mm 50 mm nominal sample of white vinyl with a shallow smooth grain, such as GMNA construction WN1JB. Place a glass plate with a base size no less than 50 mm 50 mm over the sample. Then place a 0.9 kg mass with a base size less than 50 mm 50 mm on top of the g

39、lass plate. Expose in air circulating oven at 85 2 C for 30 minutes. Allow the specimen to cool for a minimum of 24 hours at standard conditions (reference GMW3221, Code A). Examine the vinyl for color transfer. Report the results as follows: Satisfactory: No color transfer Unsatisfactory: Any color

40、 transfer 3.3.4 Dye Migration (GMW14141). Thread preparation: Unwind approximately 30 m of thread, then fold back and forth until a 127 mm (5 in), 30 ply to 50 ply sample is achieved. The results shall be four (4) or greater when compared to the gray scale. 4 Manufacturing Process Any change in manu

41、facturing process constitutes reason for re-approval of the given material. All re-approvals require color validation and complete testing. These packages shall be taken into the appropriate GM textile engineering department. 4.1 Manufacturers Identification. Each cone shall be plainly marked with t

42、he following information: Name of manufacturer, thread size, lot number, color, date of tubing, and weight. If requested, additional identification methods, for example colored cones or bar codes, may be mutually agreed upon by the thread supplier and the sew plant as needed. 4.2 Alignment. Not appl

43、icable. 4.3 Quality Control Monitoring. 4.3.1 Lot to Lot Monitoring. 4.3.1.1 Construction Property Monitoring. For purposes of monitoring each lot for compliance to this specification, the following construction requirement tests shall be tested: Tensile Strength, Elongation, Linear Density TEX, Per

44、cent Lubricant, and Percent Resin. 4.3.1.2 Color Property Monitoring. For purposes of monitoring the consistency of color properties of this material, the complete list of color properties shall be tested at least once per calendar year. Copyright General Motors Company Provided by IHS under license

45、 with General Motors CompanyNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-GM WORLDWIDE ENGINEERING STANDARDS GMW14129 Copyright 2011 General Motors Company All Rights Reserved November 2011 Page 4 of 8 4.4 Part Performance Processability. All materials covered by

46、 this specification are subject to part performance testing through part validation. 5 Rules and Regulations 5.1 Legal Regulations. All materials must satisfy applicable laws, rules, regulations and recommendations valid in the country of usage. 5.2 Language. In the event of conflict between the Eng

47、lish and domestic language, the English language shall take precedence. 5.3 Recycling Guidelines (GMW3116). All materials developed to this specification shall be optimized to provide maximum end of life cycle value utilizing the Vehicle Recyclability/ Recoverability Calculation Sheet in GMW3116. Re

48、cycled content shall be reported to the approving and procuring Materials Engineering Department utilizing the Part Recyclability/ Recoverability Report Form. (Reference the Appendix of GMW3116, Recyclability/ Recoverability Guidelines.) 5.4 Sew-in. In order to reject a lot of thread, the thread mus

49、t be sewn into the production material. The appearance of the sew-in must be unacceptable when compared to other accepted lots. 5.5 Sewability. The purchaser may require a sewing machine test or plant try-out to determine the ability of the threads to sew. The sample shall sew without excessive breakage; skipped stitches or loops when compared with the typical amount in production, based on that thread type and sew o