NAVY A-A-50367 A-1991 COAT MAN-S ALL WEATHER WITH REMOVABLE LINER《带有可卸式衬套的各天气适用男式外套》.pdf

1、-. a- t A-A-50367A 4 W 9999974 O063042 b W - 1 INCH-POUND I A-A-50367A 16 December 1991 A-A-50367 1 March 1989 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION COAT, MANS, ALL WEATHER, WITH REMOVABLE LINER This Commercial Item Description is authorized for use in preference to MIL-C-24920. Descri tion. The coat shall be

2、 single breasted with front fly with four (4) + uttons a lapel button, and a throat tab with two buttons. The front facing shall have a storm tab with button. It shall have a front and back yoke lining made o basic material which is tacked at the side seams. It shall have split shoulder design (set-

3、in front and raglan back) with shoulder epaulets. The epaulet points shall touch the finished collar seam and the epaulet shall be centered directly over the shoulder seam. The sleeve shall have buttoning sleeve tabs with two buttons for adjustment. The coat shall have welt pockets with pass-through

4、 slits. The back shall have a center back vent with button and buttonhole closure. The removable liner shall be made of pile material, with bound edges, raglan sleeves with buttons and loops for attaching to inner sleeve bottoms, bound pass-through pocket slits and a slide fastener to match inside s

5、lide fastener on coat (see Figure 1). Each coat 0 shall have a hanger loop positioned in the center back at top collar stand. Topstitching shall be 318 inch. Sizes. The coats shall be provided in sizes 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, m, 48, 50, and 52. Lengths. The lengths shall be short, regular, l

6、ong and extra-long. Basic material. The basic material for the coat shall be a 65% polyester/35% cotton water repellent treated poplin fabric, shade Navy Blue 3346, conforming to MIL-C-29363, The piece number for the standard sample is 90094. The fabric shall meet the following requirements: Benefic

7、ial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, P. O. Box 59, Natick, MA 01760-0001 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document

8、Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. ASMC NIA FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release, distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. _ - -_ _ A-A

9、-50367A 84 9999974 0063043 8 = I + -4 A-A-50367A Basic material. (continued) Hydrostatic height - cm (min.) Ini t ia1 35 After 1 drycleaning 35 Spray rating (equal to or better than) After 1 drycleaning 80, 80, 70 Ini t ia1 100, 100, 90 FED Test Method 5514, 0 5556, and 5508 as applicable 5508 as ap

10、plicable FED Test Method 5526 and Liner material. The material for the removable liner shall be acrylic fiber pile with acrylic, polyester or polypropylene backed cloth, The minimum weight of the fabric shall be 13.0 oz/sq yd, with a minimum shearable pile weight of 4.0 oz/sq yd. Shrinkage after dry

11、 cleaning shall be not more than 5.0%, when tested in accordance with TM 5580 of FED-STD-191. The color shall be black. Sleeve linings and bindings. The material for the sleeve lining, for binding the back of the shell facings, and binding of the removable liner shall be a black nylon taffeta. The c

12、olor shall be a good match to the basic material. The cloth shall weigh 1.75 to 2.3 oz/sq yd, Liner sleeves. The material for the liner sleeves shall be a black satin cloth, rayon face and cotton back, weighing 8.2 oz/sq yd (minimum), or acetate face and rayon back weighing 6.5 oz/sq yd (minimum); T

13、he color shall be a good match to the liner material. NOTE: Unless otherwise specified, all fabric components shall demonstrate within the coat or liner shall demonstrate compatible dimensional stability commercially acceptable colorfastness properties. Fabric components properties, unless otherwise

14、 specified. used e Buttons. The buttons shall be black and a good match to the basic material. iIhettons shall be flat, four-hole plastic, glossy finish. The coat shall have 40 line buttons for the front fly, 30 line buttons for the lapel, epaulets and storm tab, and 24 line buttons for sleeve tabs,

15、 sleeve liner, throat tab, and back vent. The stay buttons shall be 18 line. The buttons shall be shank wrapped. Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be brass with a short pull tab and black tape. The length of the fastener shall be 68 inches for the Short and 70 inches for Regular, Long, and X-

16、Long. Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be black, 2 or 3 ply covered polyester thread, demonstrating commercially acceptable colorfastness properties. Fusible interlining. The fusible interlining for the top collar, epaulets, pocket welts, front fly facings, top and bottom colla

17、r stands and for interlining sleeve bottoms shall be dark grey or black nonwoven, thermally bonded, mechanically entangled together and shall be binder free. The fusible cloth may be composed of 100% polyester or polyester and nylon with not more than 25% nylon by base weight. The fusible adhesive s

18、hall be applied to one side of the web in a uniform dot pattern in accordance with good commercial 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-e?- ir i A-A-50367A 4 9999974 0063044 T A-A-50367A Fusible interlining. (continued) practice. The fus

19、ible material shall weigh a minimum of 1.5 oz/sq yd. The 0 fusible interlining shall be fused to the basic material on a fusing press. All fusing of the fusible material shall be on a single ply basis (no stacking allowed). For optimum results with the particular fusible style and press used, specif

20、ic settings should be obtained from the manufacturer of the fusible interlining. Seam web tape. The tape used in topstitching the center back seam, side seams, armhole seams (optional), and top sleeve seams shall be a polyamide fusible web, 3/8 (+ 1/16) inch in width and weighing 1.0 (+ - 0.2) ounce

21、s per square yard. Labels. A commerical type label is acceptable in both the coat and liner provided that additional printed cloth labels containing the contractors name, contract number, and NSN are caught in the stitching of the commercial label. The commercial label shall include fiber content in

22、formation and the following care instructions: The color shall be natural. For the coat: Machine wash separately with warm or cold water. Rinse three (3) times to remove all soap. Do not spin or wring. Hang to drip dry or complete the wash cycle and tumble dry at 140F. Touch up with a cool iron. OR

23、Dry clean, thoroughly rinsing to remove all detergents. For the liner: Dry clean only - Do not press Removable size ticket. Each coat shall have a commercial type size ticket attached at all four corners to the outside of the lower left sleeve. The ticket shall be 1 1/2 inches long and 2 inches high

24、, made of a suitable plain white cardboard. The corners of the ticket may be double perforated for ease in tacking. The size (38R - Example) shall be printed or stamped on the upper left hand corner in black or blue ink. The lettering for the size shall be 1/4 inch in height. Abbreviations for lengt

25、h shall be S, R, L and XL, respectively. As an alternate, the removable size ticket may be attached to a plastic barb or string and secured to the sleeve tab button. The ticket shall be of sufficient thickness to prevent easy tearing. Patterns. The contractor 3s responsible for grading patterns for

26、additional sizes. The pattern generally provides a seam allowance of 3/8 inch for safety stitched seams and joining seams. Commercial patterns may be used in lieu of Government patterns provided they conform to the cited design and finished measurements. The government shall furnish a single size pa

27、ttern. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-.-_-_ _ 5 -. j A-A-503b7A 4 H 9999974 0063045 L W A-A-50367A Sizes and measurements. The finished coats and liners shall conform to measurements shown in Tables I and II. Coats and liners shall

28、 be measured as 0 indicated on Figure 1. Coat measurements shall be made with the garment fully buttoned, laid flat with the liner removed. All measurements are in inches. Table I - Coat measurements . Size Chest Back length Sleeve length Short Regular Long X-long 28 36 38 40 42-1/4 44-1/2 Sleeve le

29、ngth for 30 38 38-1/4 40-1/4 42-1/2 44-3/4 all Shorts - 17 34 42 38-3/4 40-3/4 43 45-1/4 Sleeve length for 36 44 39 41 43-1/4 45-1/2 all Regulars - 18 40 48 39-1/2 41-1/2 43-3/4 46 Sleeve length for 42 50 39-3/4 41-3/4 44 46-1/4 all Longs - 19-1/4 46 54 40-1/4 42-1/4 44-1/2 46-3/4 Sleeve length for

30、all 48 56 40-1/2 42-1/2 44-3/4 47 X-longs - 20-1/4 32 40 38-1/2 40-1/2 42-3/4 45 38 46 39-1/4 41-1/4 43-1/2 45-3/4 44 52 40 42 44-1/4 46-1/2 50 58 40-3/4 42-3/4 45 47-1/4 52 60 41 43 45-1/4 47-1/2 . Toler- ance: + 1 + 1/2 - + 3/4 - + 3/4 - + 3/4 - + 3/4 - - . Table II - Liner Measurements . Size Che

31、st Back length Sleeve length Short Regular Long X-long 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 38-1/2 40 40 42 42 44 44 46 46 48 48 50 50 52 52 29-3/8 29-5/8 29-7/8 30-1/8 30-318 30-5/8 30-7/8 31-1/8 31-3/8 31-5/8 31-7/8 32-1/8 32-3/8 31-3/8 31-5/8 31-7/8 32-1/8 32-3/8 32-5/8 32-7/8 33-1/8 33-3/8 33-5/8 33

32、-7/8 34-1/8 34-3/8 33-5/8 33-7/8 34-1/8 34-3/8 34-5/8 34-718 35-1/8 35-3/8 35-5/8 35-7/8 36-1/8 36-3/8 36-5/8 35-3/4 36 36-1/4 36-1/2 36-3/4 37 37-1/4 37-1/2 37-3/4 38 38-1/4 38-1/2 38-3/4 Sleeve length for all Shorts - 16 Sleeve length for all Regulars - 17 Sleeve length for all Longs - 18-114 Slee

33、ve length for all X-longs - 19-1/4 Toler- + 1/2 ance: - + 1 - +1 - +1 - +1 - +1 - . NOTE: For location of measurements, refer to Figure 1. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-50367A 84 m 9999974 0063046 3 m 2: A-A-50367A After compl

34、etion, the coats and liners shall be thoroughly %? open or puckered seam; any size hole, cut, tear, smash, misweave; missing yarn or broken yarn; loose yarn; visible mend; pleat or crease; needle chew; irregular stitching; shade bar, dye streak, or area of no dye penetration; shaded parts on the out

35、side; any part noticeably shaded from the other parts or variation in shade within a part; thread color not a good match to basic material; any spot or stain clearly noticeable; five or more thread ends on outside not trimmed to 3/8 inch or less; buttonhole or button misplaced, omitted, with broken

36、stitches, with ragged edges, broken or defective; button not aligned with corresponding buttonhole causing gap or tightness; pockets out of alignment; pocket welt not uniform in size and shape; pocket opening not smooth and flat; epaulet or sleeve tab not uniform in size or shape or does not lay fla

37、t; slide fastener not functioning properly, pull detaches, slider binds or sticks, chain unmeshes; binding omitted, twisted, or not securely caught; any evidence of fusible bleed through, bubbling, delamination, or color change; label missing, incorrect, or illegible; wrinkles, creases, or pressing

38、impressions not removed; scorched area; any measurement not within tolerance specified; any variation not otherwise classified herein but at variance with the approved product demonstration model. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- -_

39、 .*; A-A-503b7A 4 9999974 00b3047 5 Review: Project Number: . DLA-CT 8405-N162 I A-A-50367A Packa in . Each coat shall be buttoned at the top. The fronts shall be across the chest. The top front shall be folded down 1/3 and the bottom front folded up to measure approximately 23 by 15 inches. The fol

40、ded coat shall be inserted into a close fitting, flat style, clear polyethylene film bag. Six coats of one length and size only, packaged as specified above, $%?%e packed in a fiberboard shipping container, assembled, closed and reinforced according to type CF, class domestic, variety DW, grade 275,

41、 size 3A of MIL-B-17757. The fiberboard for the liner shall conform to type CF, class domestic of MIL-B-17757. Each container shall have the contents completely covered on the top and bottom with a sheet of commercial grade kraft paper. -7- over apped for an even width down the length of the coat, w

42、ith the arms folded 0 Marking. The unit package, intermediate and outer container and the palletized load, as applicable, shall be marked in accordance with MIL-STD-129. Palletization. When specified, coats packed as specified above, shall be palletized on a 4-way entry pallet in accordance with loa

43、d type 1A of MIL-STD-147. Each prepared load shall be bonded in accordance with means C and D, or film bonding F or G. Pallet patterns shall be in accordance with appendix of MIL-STD-147. The pallet shall be 4-way, type IV; type V, class 1, size 2; or type VIII, fabricated from wood group I, II, III

44、, IV, grade A of NN-P-71, or 4-way, style 1, size A, type I, class 1 fabricated from wood groups specified in MIL-P-15011. Interlocking of loads shall be effected by reversing the pattern of each course. If the container is of a size which does not conform to any of the patterns specified in MIL-STD

45、-147, the pallet pattern used shall first be approved by the contracting officer. Custodian: Navy - NU Preparing Activity: Navy - NU 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-Coat : Chest : A-A-50367A 84 = 9999974 00b3048 7 LINER Double the m

46、easurement taken from folded edge to folded edge at base of armhole. cen terback. along underarm seam. Back length: Measurement taken from neckline seam to bottom hem along Sleeve length: Measurement taken from base of armhole to sleeve hem Liner: Chest : Fold liner in half along centerback. Double

47、the measurement from aligned front edges to back folded edge at base of armhole. Back length: Measure from neck edge to bottom of liner. Sleeve length: Measurement taken from base of armhole to sleeve hem along underarm seam. FIGURE 1 - COAT, MANS, ALL WEATHER, WITH REMOVABLE LINER 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-