NAVY MIL-C-29480-1995 COATS WOMEN-S OFFICER-S《官员女士涂层》.pdf

1、 MIL-C-29480 9999906 2007255 544 4 I INCH POUND MIL-C-29480 (MC) 28 July 1995 MILITARY SPECIFICATION COATS, WOMEN S , OFFICER S This specification is approved for use by the U. S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defe

2、nse. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scorie. This specification covers requirements for womens coats. 1.2 Classification. The coats shall be of one type in the following classes and sizes as specified (see 6.2): Class 1 - Polyester/Wool, Gabardine, Green 2212 Class 2 - Polyester/Wool, Gabardine, Blue 2312 Schedule of

3、sizes Short Resular Lonq XO, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. 2.1.1 Sriecifications. standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. specified, the issue

4、s of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of u

5、se in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-Cl, Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the self addressed Standardization Document Imrirovement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this-document or by letter. AMSC N/AFSC 8410 DISTRIBUTIO

6、N STATEMENT A. distribution is unlimited. Approved for public release; Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_ MIL-C-29480 m 999990b 2007256 480 m MIL-C-29480 (MC) SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50067 A-A-50186 A-A-50196 A-A-50198 A-A-50199 A-A

7、 52094 A-A- 52106 V-T-295 DDD - L - 2 O DDD-T-86 MILITARY MIL- C- 29 7 MIL- C- 3 68 MIL- B- 3 71 MIL-B-3461 MIL-(2-10176 - MIL-P-15064 - MIL-C-15065 - MIL-B-20289 - MIL-C-29137 - MIL-C-44192 - MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Flannel, Wool, Undercollar Cloth Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven Thread Silk Threa

8、d, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton - or Polyester - Covered Thread, Cotton Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester, or Polyes ter Blend Thread, Nylon Label; For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached or Dyed)

9、Cloth, Interlining, Cotton Warp, and Spun Hair-Wool Filling Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon Braid, Textile, Tubular Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester/Wool Pad, Shoulder and Sleeve-head Coat, Fronts Button, Insignia, Plastic Cloth, Felt Fabric, Com

10、posite Undercollar Container, Shipping and Storage, Coat (Hanger Pack) Cloth, Fusibles STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings MILITARY MIL-STD-129 - Marking for Shipment and Storage MIL-STD-147 - Palletized, Unit Load MIL-STD-1608 - Provisi

11、ons for Evaluating Quality of Coats, MIL-STD-984 - Provisions for Size Labeling of Womens Womens, Dress Uniform Clothing 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-fiIL-C-29480 = Ob 2007257 317 MIL-C-29480 (MC) 2.2 Non-Government mblications.

12、The following document(s) form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DOD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS specified in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of document

13、s not listed in the DODISS shall be the issue of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications, standards and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Building 40, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philad

14、elphia, PA 19111-5094). Department of Defense (DOD) Standard Color Card for Sewing Threads 1968 Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966 f (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States Inc., 409 West 44th Street, New York, New York 1001

15、6-0927). AMERICAN SOCIETY OF TESTING MATERIALS ASTM D 3951 - Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging (Application for copies should be addressed to American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103-1187). (Non-Government standards and other publications are norm

16、ally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services). 2.3 Order of Rrecedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein.

17、The text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide samRles. Guide samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contr

18、actor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-HIL-C-2946fl 9999906 2007258 253 MIL-C-29480 (MC) 3.2 First article. When spe

19、cified (see 6.2), the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.4 and 6.4). 3.3 Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be as follows: (a) Class 1. Cloth, polyester/wool gabardine 10.6 ounce green shade 2212 conforming to type II, clas

20、s 12 of MIL-C-10176 (see 6.3). (b) Class 2. (Same except Black, shade 2312) e 3.3.2 Lininq. The material for lining the coats shall be cloth, rayon, twill, 3.7 ounce, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368 in shades as follows: (a) Class 1. Green, shade 2209 (b) Class 2. (Same except Black, shade 2604).

21、 3.3.3 Bias bindinq. The binding for the underarm shield shall be bias cut from the lining material specified in 3.3.2. The binding shall be cut 5/8 to 7/8 inch wide and shall have sized edges. 3.3.4 Undercollar material. The undercollar material shall be cloth, wool flannel conforming to A-A-50067.

22、 The material shall be dyed a shade approximating the shade of the basic material specified in 3.3.1, and shall show good colorfastness to wet (dry) cleaning. The acidity (pH) requirement and colorfastness to perspiration and crocking requirements shall not apply. As an alternate, a composite underc

23、ollar fabric conforming to MIL-C-29137 may be used in a shade approximating the shade of the basic material specified in 3.3.1. 3.3.5 Collar interlinins material. The collar interlining material for all classes shall be cloth, cotton buckram, natural conforming to type I, of A-A-50186 except that th

24、e test for shrinkage shall be in accordance with Method 5580 of FED-STD-191. 3.3.6 Polvester twill. The material for the stays for the simulated breast pocket, armhole seam and shoulder seam shall be cloth polyester twill, shade black, conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106, except the seam efficiency a

25、nd colorfastness requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply. Cloth shall be bias cut for shoulder and armhole stays. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-C-27480 77777Ob 2007259 L9T W MIL-C-29480 (MC) 3.3.7 Tape. The

26、 cotton tape shall conform to type III, class 1 of DDD-T-86, 1/4 inch wide for reinforcing the folded edge of the simulated pocket welt and armholes for all classes of coats, 3/8 inch wide for the front edges of all classes of coats. The bridle tape for the breakline shall be 3/8 inch wide for all c

27、lasses of coats. 3.3.8 Coat fronts. The coat fronts shall conform to type XV of MIL-C-15065, except that the cotton and polyester stays shall be dyed black. 3.3.9 Shoulder Dads. The shoulder pads shall conform to type III, class 1 of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.10 Sleeve head Dads, The to type IV of MIL-P-1506

28、4. 3.3.11 Fusible interlininss. sleeve head pads shall conform 3.3.11.1 Fusible interlininq or sma 1 Darts. The fusible interlining for the collar and full front facing, shoulder straps and top welt shall be a nonwoven cloth, conforming to type V, class 1, style B of MIL-C-44296. The color shall be

29、black or charcoal. The fusible shall be Pellon Style 8313, Handler 7208 or equal. The fusing conditions shall be as directed by the supplier or temperature 280-290F, 140-145CE, time 12-15 seconds, pressure 4-6 PSI. 3.3.11.2 Fusible coat fronts. The coat front may be fused using a twill weave woven f

30、usible conforming to type III, class 1, style B of MIL-C-44296 or 100 percent cotton warp, 75-90 percent rayon, 10-25 percent wool, weight minimum 3.5 to 4,O ounces maximum, polyamide dot color black or charcoal. The fusible shall be Kufner Style G35, National Style 200FL, Crown Style 241 or equal.

31、The fusing conditions shall be as directed by the supplier or 300-310F, 150-155CE temperature; 12-15 seconds time; 4-5 PSI pressure. 3.3.12 Hanser braid. The braid for the coat hanger shall be cotton or rayon tubular flat braid, 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide, having a breaking strength of not less than 50 p

32、ounds in the warp direction and shall conform to type IX, class 1 of MIL-B-371. The color for class 1 shall closely match shade T-1, Cable No. 66023 and Cable No. 66043 for class 2. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29480 D 9999

33、906 2007260 901 D MIL-C-29480 (MC) 3.3.13 Thread. 3.3.13.1 Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196. The thread for machine sewing shall conform to type I, size A for all outside seaming and stitching; size B and size F for buttonhole, needle and looper threads, respectively; and size

34、 O for machine felling. The thread for hand sewing shall be type III, size A, 2-ply. 3.3.13.2 Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform to A-A-52094; type III, mercerized finish, ticket No. A, 3-ply for all inside seaming and stitching, overedge stitching, and for belt and belt fastener buttonh

35、oles; type II, glazed finish, ticket No. 24, 4-ply for sewing on buttons and type I, ticket No. 30, 3-ply for machine tacking armholes. The thread for basting shall be a good commercial grade. As an alternate for cotton thread, a polyester cotton covered thread conforming to 9 A-A-50199, ticket No.

36、50, 2 or 3 ply may be used. The thread for basting shall be good commercial grade cotton. 3.3.12.3 Nylon thread. The nylon thread for padding lapels of coats shall conform to type III, size O0 of V-T-295. 3.3.13.4 Synthetic thread. A monofilament synthetic thread may be used for those basting operat

37、ions where the thread is required to be removed, provided the garment is subsequently given a treatment by a dry cleaning agent in which the synthetic thread is soluble. When this thread is used, any residue remaining on the garment after the dry cleaning process shall be brushed off or removed. 3.3

38、13.5 Color and colorfastness. The thread shall be dyed shade olive drab, T-1, Cable No. 66023 for class 1 coats and black, AA, Cable No. 66043 for class 2 coats. (see DOD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). The cotton thread for basting and for machine tack

39、ing armholes may be white. The colored threads, when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification, shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning and, in addition, the silk thread shall show good fastness to light. 3.3.14 GimD. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, No. 8 soft or glazed

40、finish, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be shade olive drab, T-1, cable No. 66023 for class 1 coats and black, AA, Cable No. 66043 for class 2 coats. The gimp shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.15 Buttons. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reprod

41、uction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29480 W 9999906 20072b31 848 = MIL-C-29480 (MC) 3.3.15.1 Class 1. The insignia buttons shall be plastic, black color, conforming to MIL-B-20289, type I, 40 line and type II, 27 line, or as an alternate, metal insignia buttons conformi

42、ng to MIL-B-3461, type II, style 3, class B, subclass 2 may be used. enamel finish is acceptable with prior approval. A dull black epoxy finish in lieu of dull black 3.3.15.2 Class 2. The insignia buttons shall be metal, gold plated, 27-line and 40-line, regular shank conforming to type I, style 3,

43、class A, subclass 1 of MIL-B-3461. 3.3.16 Labels. Each coat shall have an identification label and a size label as follows. The coats are intended to be dry cleaned and the labels shall show fastness to dry cleaning. 3.3.16.1 Identification label. The identification label shall conform to type VI, c

44、lass 1 of DDD-L-20. The content and format shall be as follows: Nomenclature (item description) Name of contractor Fiber Content 3.3.16.2 Size label. The size label shall conform to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20, The inscription on the size label shall conform to MIL-STD-984, Table II Body Dimensions

45、 for Marine Corps, Table III Height Ranges and Figure 2. Example as follows: Bust Circ: 35 I Hip Circ: 3 7 - 1/2 It Height: 63-1/2 to 67-1/2“ (R) (Size Code 8) 3.4 Desisn. The coats shall be the U. S. Marine Corps design shown in Figures 1, 2, and 3, They shall be four-button, single-breasted, semif

46、ormfitting, fully lined coat having a panel type front, a four-piece back with center vent, simulated breast pocket with outside welt, inside pocket, shoUlder straps to button, ornamental sleeve cuffs, rolled collar with worked eyelet in each end for branch of service insignia, and notched lapel. 3.

47、5 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working pattern. pattern shall be identical to the standard patterns. The standard patterns shall p

48、rovide 3/16-inch allowance for seams at the edges of lapels, front edges of coat and for shoulder straps, 3/4-inch allowance for side seams, 5/8-inch for center back seam and 3/8-inch allowance for all other seams except as otherwise specified in Table I. Standard patterns show size, seam allowances

49、 directional lines for cutting, and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of the component parts. The contractors working 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-C-29480 m 9999906 2007262 784 m MIL-C-29480 (MC) 3.5.1 List of pattern Darts. The coats shall be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance with the number of patte