NAVY MIL-C-87064 B-1992 CLOTH DENIM COTTON POLYESTER《涤棉粗斜纹布》.pdf

1、- c J MIL-C-87064B 83 W 9999906 0534689 I W I INCH-POUND I MIL-C-87064B(NU) 19 May 1992 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-8706 4A 26 April 1985 MILITARY SPECIFICATION CLOTH, DENIM, COTMN/POLYESTER This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy, and

2、is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for 65% cotton and 35% polyester denim cloth. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. * 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The foll

3、owing specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue- of the- Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto

4、, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-5 O1 99 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester -Covered Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charg

5、e, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, P.O. Box 59, Natick, MA 01760-0001 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8305 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release, dis

6、tribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- - _I- -_-,. MIL-C-7064B 3 - 7779906 0534670 - STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-4 FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-8 O 3 - Packaging of Cotton and Cotton-Synthetic Fiber - Glo

7、ssary of Fabric Imperfections Blend Fabrics (Excluding Duck Fabrics) MIL I TARY MIL-STD-10 5 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by MIL-STD-2073-1 - DOD Materials Procedures For Development and MIL-STD-2073-2 - Packaging Requirement Codes Attributes Application of Packaging Requirements

8、(Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from Standardization Document Order Desk, Bldg. 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawigs, and publications. The following other Go

9、vernment documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation. RULES AND REGULATIONS UNDER THE TEXTILE FIBER PRODUCTS IDENTIFICATION ACT (Copies may be obtained without charge fro

10、m the Federal Trade Commission, Washington, DC 20580-0001). * 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DOD adopted shall be those listed in the issue

11、of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issue of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). TECHNICAL IWWAL OF THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS * Method No. 8 1988 Colorfastness to

12、 Crocking: MTCC Crockmeter Method * Method No. 16 1982 Colorfastness to Light: General Method (Application for copies should be addressed to the AATCC National Headquarters, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.) AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS * D 1424-83 Test for Tear R

13、esistance of Woven Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum (Application for copies should be address to the American Society for (Elmendorf) Apparatus Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103-1187.) 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license fro

14、m IHS-,-,-. a a a i MIL-C-87064B 83 9999906 0534691 T (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.) * 2.3 Order o

15、f precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS * 3.1 S

16、tandard sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.3). 3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample unit

17、(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2). The standard sample is identified under piece no. 89066. 3.3 Material. (see 6.5). 3.3.1 Yarns. The filling yarns shall be a blend of 50 (+ 5%) polyester and the remaindercotton. The warp yarns shall be a blend of cotton and polyester i

18、n such a proportion so that the basic cloth without finishing materials shall analyze 64 (+ - 5%) cotton and the remainder polyester. 3.4 Color. The color shall be Navy Shade Blue 3371 and shall match the standarCZZqle. The warp shall be indigo dyed. The filling yarn may be tinted. * 3.4.1 Matchin .

19、 The finished cloth shall match the standard sample when having a correlated color temperature of 7500 + 200 K, with illumination of 100 + 20 foot candles, and shall be a good mat& to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2300 - + 200 K. * 3.4.2 Colorfastness. The finished cloth shall

20、show colorfastness to laundering, light (after 40 standard fading hours), crocking and perspiration equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.5. As a limit of acceptability or when no standard sample is available, the finished cloth shall show a minimum of “good“ fast

21、ness to light (40 SFH), fair fastness to perspiration, a color change after laundering no greater than 2-3 on AATCC Gray Scale for color change and crocking no less than 3.0 dry and 1.5 wet when tested as specified in 4.5. viewed un d er i tered tungsten lamps which approximate artificial daylight 3

22、 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_ -_- -. MIL-C-87064B 83 9999906 0534692 i m . e 3.5 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the minimum requirements specified in Table I when tested as specified in 4.5. Table I -

23、Physical Requirements Weight Yarns per inch(2.54cm) Breaking Strength Tearing Strength oz/sq yd (g/m2 ) (min) lbs (newtons)(min) lbs (newtons)(min) (min) Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling 10.0 (339.0) 68 42 170 80 10 5 (756.2) (355.8) (44.5) (22.2) 3.6 Weave. The cloth shall be a 3-harness cons

24、truction, 2 up and 1 down right-hani twill when tested as specified in 4.5, 3.7 Width. The width of the cloth shall be as specified (see 6.2), and shall be-minimum acceptable width inclusive of selvage when fly shuttle or shuttleless looms, with tuck-in selvage, are used. For all other shuttleless l

25、ooms the width measurement shall be made between the last warp yarn on each side excluding the protruding fringe. 3.8 Nonfibrous materials. The starch and protein content including chloroformsoluble and water-soluble material, shall not exceed 12.0 percent when tested as specified in 4.5. * 3.9 Dime

26、nsional stability. The finished cloth shall not shrink or elongate more than 3.0 percent in either direction of the warp or filling when tested as specified in 4.5. The preshrinking process used shall not be identified by name or trademark, either on the cloth or the ticket or package. The finished

27、cloth shall have a seam efficiency of not less than 80% when tested as specified in 4.5. 3.10 Seam efficiency. 3.11 . The pH of the cloth shall-not be lower than 5.5 nor more than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.5. 3.12 Length and put-u . Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall be in

28、 continuous fengths, each not less than 40 yards. Each length shall be put-up on full width rolls as specified in FED-CTD-803 with the face inwards. 3.13 Fiber identification. Each piece shall be ticketed or labeled for fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fib

29、er Products identification Act (see 2.1.2). 3.14 Workmanshi . The finished cloth shall conform to the quality establisheTTdspecification. The demerit points per 100 square yards (83.6m2), when calculated as specified in Section 4, shall not exceed the established maximum point value. 4 Provided by I

30、HSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-C-8Ob4B 83 9397906 0534693 3 MIL-C-87064B(NU) 4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS 4.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor is responsible for t

31、he performance of all inspection requirements (examinations and tests) as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in-the contract or order, the contractor may use his own or any other facilities suitable for performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by t

32、he Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to ensure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements. 4.1.1 Responsibility for compliance. All items must meet all requirements

33、of Sections 3 and 5. The inspection set forth in this specification shall become a part of the contractors overall inspection system or quality program. The absence of any inspection requirements in the specification shall not relieve the contractor of the responsibility of ensuring that all product

34、s or supplies submitted to theGovernment for acceptance comply with all requirements of the contract. Sampling inspection, as part of manufacturing operations, is acceptable practice to ascertain conformance to requirements, however, this does not authorize submission of known defective material, ei

35、ther indicated or actual, nor does it commit the Government to acceptance of defective material. 4.1.2 Certificate of compliance. Where Certificates of Compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to check test such items to determine the validity of the certification. 4.2 Classificat

36、ion of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows: 1. 2. First article inspection (See 4.3). Quality conformance inspection (see 4.4). 4.3 First article inspection. 4.4 Quality conformance inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance wi

37、th MIL-STD-105, except where otherwise indicated. 4.4.1 Component and material inspection. In accordance with 4.1 above, components and materials shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings, and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified

38、, or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents. 4.4.2 Examination of the end item. Examination of the end item shall be in accordance with 4.4.2.1 through 4.4.2.4. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-8706

39、4B(NU) 4.4.2.1 Yard-by-yard examination. Each roll in the sample shall be examined on face side only. When the total yardage in the roll. does not exceed 100 yards (91.4m), the entire yardage in the roll shall be examined. When the total yardage in the roll exceeds 100 yards (91.m), only 100 yards (

40、91.4m) shall be examined. Ail defects as defined in Section III of FED-STD-4, which are clearly noticeable at normal inspection distance (3 feet) (0.91m), shall be scored and assigned demerit points as listed in 4.4.2.1.1, except that only the slubs and knots which exceed the limits shown on Sears F

41、abric Defect Scale (see 6.4), “E“ or 3 for slubs and “C“ for knots shall be scored. No linear yard (increments of 1 yard (0.91m) on the measuring device of the .inspection machine) from any one roll within the sample shall be penalized more than 4 points. The sample size shall be in accordance with

42、the following : Lot size (yards) 3200 or less 3201 to 10,000 10,001 and over Sample size (rolls) I/ 8 13 20 - i/ Only one roll shall be taken from any shipping container, unless the number of shipping containers in the lot -are less than the number of rolls required for sampling, in which case, all

43、shipping containers shall be sampled. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 square yards ( 83.6m2 ) of the total yardage examined exceeds 28 points. The lot sQa11 be unacceptable if the individual points per 100 square yards (83.6m ) of two or more individual rolls exceed? 40 points. I

44、f one roll exceeds the point level per 100 square yards (83.6m ), a second sample, the same size as the final sample, shall be examined only for individual roll quality examination. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or mor? rolls in the second sample exceeds 38 points per 100 square yards (83.611

45、1 ). Point computation for lot quality. and individual roll quality shall be as follows: Total points scored in sample x 3600 Contracted width of cloth (inches) x Total yards inspected = Points per 100 square, yards (83.6m ) 4.4.2.1.1 Demerit points. Demerit points shall be assigned as follows: For

46、defects 3 inches (7.6cm) or less in any dimension For defects exceeding 3 inches (7.6cm), but not exceeding 6 inches (15.2cm) in any dimension For defects exceeding 6 inches (15.2cm), but not exceeding 9 inches (22.9cm) in any dimension For defects exceeding 9 inches (22.9cm) in any dimension - four

47、 points - one point - two points - three points 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. MIL-C-87064B 83 9999906 0.534695 7 The following defects, when present in the yard-by-yard and overall examination, shall be scored four points for ea

48、ch yard (0.91m) in which they occur : Baggy, ridgy or wavy cloth Width of cloth less than specified Characteristics of finish, hand and shade not equal to the standard sample Non-uniformity of shade (mottled, streaky or cloudy) Holes, cuts, tears 4.4.2.2 Examination for length. 4.4.2.2.1 Individual

49、rolls. During the yard-by-yard and overall examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for. length. Any length found to be less than the minimum specified or more than two yards (1.8m) less than the length marked on the ticket shall be considered a defect with respect to length. The lot shall be unacceptable if two or more rolls in the sample are defective in respect to length. 4.4.2.2.2 Total yardage in sample. The lot shall be