NAVY MIL-DTL-19688 D-1997 CUMMERBUND MAN-S - BLACK《男士黑色装饰带》.pdf

1、 - MIL-DTL-39688D 9999906 2055436 382 INCH-POUND MIL-DTL- 19 68 8D (MC) SUPERSEDING MIL-C- 1 9 6 8 8 C (MC ) 15 September 1994 16 October 1997 DETAIL SPECIFICATION CUMMERBUND, MANS - BLACK This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use b

2、y all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for a mans black cummerbund. 1.2. Classification. with elastic strap adjustment. The cummerbund will be of one type and size 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents li

3、sted in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While ev - ery effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this Benefic

4、ial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal Form 1426) appeari

5、ng at the end of this document or by letter. (DD AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. distribution is unlimited. Approved for public release; Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-1968 8D (MC) list, document users are caution

6、ed that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document

7、to the extent specified herein. specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Unless otherwise SPEC1 FI CAT IONS FEDERAL A-A-50196 - Threa

8、d, Silk A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton CCC-C-426 - Cloth, Cotton, Drill DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, a

9、nd Stitching (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094. ) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of th

10、is document to the extent specified herein. otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited

11、 in the solicitation (see 6.2). Unless 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NIL-DTL-LSb88D m 0b 2055418 155 m MIL-DTL-19688D (MC) ANSI/ASQC 21.4- Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Application for copies should

12、be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036) Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Thread 1968 (Application for copies should be addressed to The Color Association of the United States, Inc.,

13、409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927.) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been o

14、btained. Nothing in this document, 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the standard sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First artic

15、le. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Material. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, satin, rayon, 3.7 ounce, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. The color shall be black, shade 3202. 3.3.2 Cotton, drill

16、 The body of the cummerbund shall be interlined with cloth, cotton, drill, 7.0 ounces per square yard, unbleached, conforming to type I, class 2 of CCC-C-426. As an alternate, cloth, fusible interlining may be used. Woven Kufner style #G35, National style 200 FL or Crown style 241 or equal. 3.3.3 E

17、lastic webbinq. The elastic webbing shall be made of rayon yarn of suitable grade and denier to meet the requirements specified below, and natural or synthetic rubber strands of a 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-LSb88D 9999

18、90b 2055439 O93 MIL-DTL-1968 8D (MC) suitable gage to meet the requirements specific below. webbing shall be composed of two ground warps (one face and one back), one elastic warp, and one filling. The ground warps shall weave in a three up and one down order, with one continuous filling so as to pr

19、oduce a right twill effect on the face and back of the fabric. The elastic strands shall weave in such a manner as to be over all the back picks and under all the face picks. The The finished webbing shall conform to the following: Width (inches) 1-1/8 2 1/16 Weight per linear yd (ounces) 0.96 minim

20、um Total warp 170 minimum Elastic strands 22 minimum Picks per inch 56 minimum The color of the webbing shall be black, showing good fastness to laundering, wet (dry) cleaning, crocking and perspiration when tested as specified in Table III. 33.4 Thread. 3.3.4.1. Silk thread. conform to type I, tick

21、et No. A, 3-ply of A-A-50196 for all outside seaming and stitching. conform to type III, ticket No. C, 2-ply of A-A-50196. The silk thread for machine sewing shall The thread for hand sewing shall 3.3.4.2. Cotton thread. shall be cotton, mercerized finish, ticket No. A, 3-ply, conforming to type III

22、 of A-A-52094. good commercial grade. Thread for inside seaming and stitching Basting thread shall be a 3.3.4.3. Color and colorfastness. except thread for basting, shall be black. The thread shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning, laundry and light when tested as specified in the applicable

23、 thread specification (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). The cotton and silk thread, 3.3.5 Hardware. bronze, nickel plated, and shall conform to the design and dimensions shown on Figure 2. The buckle and slide shall be made of brass or 3.3.6 Label

24、 Each cummerbund shall be provided with an identification label, conforming to type VI, class 1 of DDD-L-20. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- NIL-DTL-19688D 9999906 2055420 803 = MIL-DTL-1968 8D (MC) The label shall measure not les

25、s than 2-1/2 by 1-1/2 inches. content and format shall be as follows: The Nomenclature: (item description) Contract number: Name of contractor: Fiber production identification: NOTE: Size of characters for “Name of contractor“ shall be minimum 6 point (approximately 1/16 inch). 3.4. Desiqn. The cumm

26、erbund shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design shown on Figure 1 having a one-piece front with four horizontal pleats and an interlining, a plain extension piece, a plain two-piece back lining provided with an elastic webbing strap at each end, a clasp type metal buckle at the end of the elastic strap

27、s, and a metal adjusting slide on both straps. 3.5. Patterns. Standards patterns will be furnished to the contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working patterns. The standard patterns provide

28、a 1/4 inch allowance for front and interlining seams and 3/8 inch allowance for front and lining seams and pockets, unless otherwise specified in Table I. seam allowances and directional lines for cutting, and shall be marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of the component parts. Stand

29、ard patterns shall show 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The cummerbunds shall be cut from the materials specified in accordance with the pattern parts indicated below: 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-39688D m 9999906 2055423 4T

30、 D I TEM 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 MIL-DTL-1968 8D (MC) PATTERN NOMENCLATURE NO. OF CUT PARTS Material: Cloth, satin, rayon Front, center 1 Side front, extensions 2 Back, lining 1 Back lining extension piece 1 Front, interlining 1 Front extension interlining 2 Front interlining, fusible 1 Front extension in

31、terlining, fusible 2 Material: Cloth, cotton, drill Material: Cloth, fusible (optional) Marker Front - I 3.6. Construction. 3.6.1 Manufacturins requirements. The cummerbunds shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I. 3.6.1.

32、1. Operations. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the cummerbunds. . 3.6.1.2. Stitches, seams, and stitchinus. The stitch, seaea. !. Mark and trim the front in iccordance with the p

33、attern marker. lark the upper edge for the position f two pockets. lake riqht buckle strap. ?inished appearance. The buckle and idjustment slides shall be positioned ind secured to the buckle strap. i. The buckle strap shall consist of ne elastic webbing each for right nnd left ends of cummerbund. T

34、he nale half of the buckle and an idjustment slide shall be secured to che right buckle strap. The female ialf of the buckle and an adjustment slide shall be seamed to the left strap. 3. Insert one end of the elastic Yiebbing through the adjustment slide. Pull enough webbing through the slide to for

35、m a 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inch loop. Turn under the end of the webbing 1/1 to 3/8 inch and stitch to the body o the webbing 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge, catching the turned under portion in the stitching. c. Insert the loose end of the webbing through the male and female halves of the buckle and thro

36、ugh the adjustment slide as shown on Figure 2. STCH TYPE 301 301 301 SEAM/ STCH TYPE ;Sae-1 SSa-1 SSb-1 TCH/IN 8-10 8-10 10-14 NDL A A A BOB/ LPR A A A 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-LSbBBD 9999906 2055425 395 MIL-DTL-1968

37、8D (MC) . TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements - Continued. OPERAT ION Make side front extensions. The extension pieces shall be made from one ply of rayon satin material and one ply of interlining. a. side and bottom edge 1/8 inch from the edge. Join extensions to center front. a. Position the cente

38、r front and extensions face to face, even at the side edges, and seam together 1/4 inch from the raw edge. b. Turn the extension and raise stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from seamed edge. Assemble cummerbund. Finished appearance. The assembled cunmierbund shall be uniform in appearance and finish and shall

39、 be smooth and flat. Seams shall be without puckers, pleats or distortions. The buckles shall be properly aligned. a. Position the right and left buckle strap, assembled as indicated in Figure 2, on the outside of the cummerbund, with the ends even with the corresponding end of the cummerbund. front

40、 1/8 to 3/16 inch from the ends. Stitch the two plies together at Join the webbing to the b. lining tunnel extension on the outside of the cmerbund and seam to the front through the interlining, 3/8 inch from the top edge. c. 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the seamed edge. Position the lining and the Turn th

41、e lining and topstitch STCH TYPE 301 301 301 301 301 301 SEAM/ STCH TYPE SSa-1 LSq-2 (a) LSq-2 (b) SSa- 1 LSq-2 ia) LSq-2 b) STCH/IN 10-14 10-14 10-14 10-14 10-14 10-14 NDL A A A A A A BOB/ LPR A A A A A A 10 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from I

42、HS-,-,- NO - 9 1c 1: - A A 1 NIL-DTL-L9bD m 9799906 2055426 221 m MIL-DTL-1968 8D (MC) TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements - Continued. OPERATION . Seam the lining to the front at he bottom the length of cummerbund ith a 3/8 inch seam except for a istance of approximately 3-1/2 nches which is left o

43、pen for turning r turning may be accomplished hrough the extension lining tunnel iece. ssemble cummerbund. (contd) :. Turn the seamed edges of the bxtensions inward as close as hossible to the elastic webbing. ititch each end of the extension with L 3/8 inch seam, catching the webbing .n the stitchi

44、ng. !. Trim the corners and raw edges of ieams for proper turning. I. Turn cummerbund right side out, Forcing out all corners and seamed 2dges. I. Baste edges to hold desired shape. i. Close the opening with felling. Phe lining shall not be exposed on the outside of the cummerbund. Press cummerbund.

45、 Finished appearance. Pressing shall be done on a heated pressing iron or pressing machine of a type suitable to obtain the desired appearance in accordance with good manufacturing practice. a. Press the entire cummerbund, removing all wrinkles. b. Finish press. Clean cummerbund. a. Remove bastings,

46、 trim all ends o: stitchings and remove all loose threads from the cummerbund. Remove all spots, shade tickets, markers ant stains from the cunmierbund without injury to the material. STCH TYPE 301 301 301 or Hopper Hand SEAM/ STCH TYPE SSa-1 SSj-1 CCH/IN 10-14 10-14 2-3 - NDL A A C (silk: BOB / LPR

47、 11 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-Lqb88D 9999906 2055427 Lb8 m MIL-DTL-1968 8D (MC) 3.7. Finished measurements. Finished measurements of the cummerbund shall be as shown in Figure 1. The finished length (dimension “Arf in Fi

48、gure 1) shall be 24-1/2 inches 2 3/8 inch. 3.8. Workmanship. The finished cummerbunds shall conform to the quality and grade of product established by this specification. 3.9, Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials s

49、hould be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs. 4. VERIFICATION 4.1. Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows: a. First article inspection (see 4.3). b. Conformance inspection (see 4.4) . 4