NAVY MIL-DTL-28919 B-1997 TROUSERS MEN-S - SERVICE SUMMER AND WINTER (OFFICER-S)《整整一年中男士服务长裤(官员的)》.pdf

1、INCH-POUND MIL-DTL-28 91 9B (MC) 22 July 1997 SUPERSEDING MI L-T- 2 8 9 1 9A ( MC ) 20 April 1994 DETAIL SPECIFICATION TROUSERS, MENS - SERVICE, SUMMER AND WINTER (OFFICERS) This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departmen

2、ts and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for mens polyester/wool trousers. 1.2. Classification. The trousers will be of one type, in the following styles and sizes as specified (see 6.2). Polyester/Wool Gabardine, Green Shade 2212 Bene

3、ficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal Form 1426) appe

4、aring at the end of this document or by letter. (DD AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. distribution is unlimited. Approved for public release; Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- m 9999906 2042263 b7 m MIL-DTL-28919B (MC) Styles

5、 Style A - With watch pocket Style B - Without watch pocket Schedule of sizes Waist 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 (inches) Inseam lengths : X-Short, Short, Regular, Long and X-Long 1.3. Individual orders. When trousers are custom tailored to an individual order, this specification shall govern, e

6、xcept the detail requirements of Section 3, Table I may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practice. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents

7、cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specific

8、ation, whether or not they are listed. While 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are th

9、ose listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, solicitation (see 6.2) . SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50 18 6 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, cited in the and Nonwoven Buttonhole 2 Provided by IHSNot

10、for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- Ob 2042264 bT3 MIL-DTL-28919B (MC) A-A-50 19 9 A-A-52 O 94 A-A-52 1 O 6 A-A-52 108 DDD-L-20 V-B-871 V-F-106 V-T-295 - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton; or - Thread, Cotton - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and - Clo

11、th, Interlining, Cotton and Synthetic, or - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple - Fastener, Slide, Interlocking - Thread, Nylon Polyester-Covered Polyester Blend Synthetic (General Use) (Plastic) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine:

12、Wool, Polyester and Wool STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-STD-1488 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Trousers * (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Do

13、cument Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094. ) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the i

14、ssue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Unless Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 19

15、68 Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-m 9999906 2042265 53T m MIL-DTL-28919B (MC) . (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States,

16、 Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927). 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has

17、 been obtained. Nothing in this document, 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2. First artic

18、le. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the trousers shall be cloth, 10.6 ounce polyester/wool gabardine green, shade 2212 conforming to type II, class 12, of MIL-C-1017

19、6. 3.3.2 Lininq, interlininq and pocketinq. 3.3.2.1. Lininq and interlininq. waistband, right fly, pocket flaps, crotch, left fly interlining, and pocket stay shall be black polyester, polyester and cotton, or polyester and rayon cloth conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. The material for lining the

20、3.3.2.2. Pocketinq. The pocketing material shall be black polyester, polyester and cotton or polyester and rayon cloth conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. 3.3.3 Buckram. The material for interlining waistband shall be bleached or unbleached cloth, cotton, buckram conforming to type II, class 1 of A-

21、A-50186. 3.3.4 Waistband stabilizer. The material for the waistband stabilizer shall be cloth, interlining, cotton or synthetic and nylon conforming to type 1 of A-A-52108. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- = 999990b 20422bb 47b III

22、MIL-DTL-28 919B (MC) O 3 3.3.5 Slide fastener. The slide fastener for each class of trousers shall be type I, style 1, cam lock, size LS, short tab pull, brass chain, conforming to V-F-106, except the salt spray test shall not apply. A staple bottom stop is required. All components of the slide fast

23、ener shall be brass and from the same supplier. The tape shall be cotton or synthetic or a combination. II 3.3.5.1. Color. The color of the slide fastener tape shall be green, shade AF, cable No. 66531. 16, 20 4 3.3.5.2. Colorfastness. The dyed slide fastener tape shall show colorfastness to wet dry

24、-cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in V-F-106. When no standard sample is available, the tape shall show good“ colorfastness when tested as specified in V-F-106. 3.3.6 Hook and eye. The hook and eye shall be North and Judd (Hook Flex H-49, K-50, H-89 and E

25、-90); Universal Button Co. (Talon #3, #7 and #8 hook with #8 eye or #85 eye); Akim Co. or Patwin, Inc., Junior Series, type JB; Stimpson (P-536, D-4086, D-4457, D-4288); Rau (OA50, OX 1256, 080415), Patwin, Inc. (Slim-Slak with MB eye, and Slik-Slak) or equal. The finish shall be nickel plate. Prior

26、 to the use of an “or equal“ item, the supplier shall submit the item with supporting data to the contracting officer for approval. 3.3.7 Thread. Cotton thread shall be used conforming to A-A-52094 as follows: OPERATION Outside stitching, bartacks, buttonholes and ornamental strip. Seaming and Stitc

27、hing Automatic machine pocket construction Inside stitching Button Sewing TYPE I TICKET NO. I PLY -1 I I 30, 50 1 3 I 70 3 (21 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-E 99999CIb 20422b7 302 MIL-DTL- 2 8 9 1 9 B ( MC ) As an alternate to the

28、 cotton thread, a polyester, cotton-covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 50, 3-ply or ticket No. 70, 2-ply may be used for all sewing operations. 3.3.7.1. Automatic button sewinq. If an automatic machine which sews and shanks (wraps) the buttons in one operation is used, the thread sha

29、ll be waxed nylon monocord special No. 5, having a minimum breaking strength of 16 pounds (7.3 kg) and minimum length per pound of 2150 yards (1965 m). This thread shall be tested for these requirements and for colorfastness (see 3.3.7.3) in accordance with test methods in V-T-295. 3.3.7.2. Color. T

30、he color of the thread for the trousers shall be olive drab, T-1, cable No. 66023 (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). 3.3.7.3. Colorfastness. The colored thread shall show fastness to light and wet dry-cleaning equal to or better than the standard s

31、ample. When no standard sample is available, the colored thread shall show “good“ fastness to light and wet dry-cleaning. 3.3.8 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall be cotton, ticket No. 8, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198. 3.3.8.1. Color. trousers shall be the same as specified i

32、n 3.3.7.2 for the thread. The color requirements for the gimp for the 3.3.8.2. Colorfastness. The colored gimp shall show fastness to wet dry-cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the coloredgimp shall show llgoodl fastness to wet dry-cleaning. 3

33、.3.9 Buttons. The buttons for the hip pocket and fly-tab closure shall conform to type II, class D, style 4, 22-line, glossy finish, of V-B-871. The color of the buttons for the trousers shall be green, shade AF, cable No. 62017 (see DoD Standard Shades for Buttons 1966). 3.3.10 Labels. Each pair of

34、 trousers shall have a combination personal-identification-size-instruction label. The combination label shall conform to type VI, class 14 of DDD-L-20. The label shall conform to the colorfastness and writing test requirements 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted w

35、ithout license from IHS-,-,-II 9999986 20Y22b8 249 ITEM MIL-DTL-2 8 91 9B (MC) PATTERN NOMENCLATURE NO. OF CUT PARTS Material: Basic of DDD-L-20. The content (inscription) and format of the combination label shall be as follows: Front Back Right fly Left fly Side pocket wide facing (bearer) Side poc

36、ket narrow facing Hip pocket bearer Hip pocket flap Waistband Nomenclature: Trousers, Mens Fiber Content: 55% Polyester/45% Wool (Example) Size: 38R (Example) Name of contractor: DRY CLEAN ONLY 2 2 1 1 2 2 4 2 2 3.4. Desiqn. as shown on Figure 1 having a two-piece, lined waistband with hook and eye

37、closure and outlet at seat seam; french type fly with slide fastener; seven belt loops; straight side pockets; hip pockets with pocket flaps to button; outlet from crotch to knee at inseam and unfinished leg bottom. The trousers shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design 3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns

38、will be furnished to the contractor by the Government. altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working patterns. patterns provide an allowance of 1/4 inch for pocket flaps, 3/8 inch seam allowance for all other seams except as otherwise stated operation. The

39、standard patterns shall not be The contractors working and a 3.5.1 Pattern parts. The component parts for the trousers shall be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance with the number of pattern parts indicated below, except belt loops and waist band lining/interlining. 7 Provided by I

40、HSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-ITEM I I Material : Lining/Interlining PATTERN NOMENCLATURE I NO. OF CUT PARTS 10 11 12 13 14 1 Material: Pocketing Right fly lining Crotch lining Side pocket stay Left fly interlining Hip pocket flap lining Side po

41、cket Hip pocket 2 2 3.6. Construction. The trousers shall be manufactured in accordance with all operations specified in Table I. The supplier is not required to follow the exact sequence of the operations listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the trousers. Any

42、 additional basting or holding stitching used to facilitate manufacture is permissible provided that the thread is removed or does not show on the finished trousers. 3.6.1 Stitchinq, seams and stitchinqs. Stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. Whenever tw

43、o or more methods for seam or stitch types are given for the same part of the operation, any one of them may be used. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (under thread) shall be on the inside of the trousers. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, tw

44、ists, pleats, puckers or open seams will result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tensions shall be maintained so that there will be no tight or loose tension. shall be securely caught in the fabric. Buttonholes shall be clean cut and the stitching 3.6.1.1. Stitches per inch. The mini

45、mum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table I. 3.6.1.2. Thread breaks and ends of seam. The ends of all seams and stitching, when not caught in other seams and stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except lab

46、els) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than three stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without licen

47、se from IHS-,-,-Ri 9999906 2042270 9T7 m STCH/IN MIL-DTL-28919B (MC) NDL less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks on 401 seaming may be repaired using 301 stitch type. Bartacks shall be not more than 1/16 inch wide. 3.6.2 Buttonholes. Buttonholes shall be the eyelet-end, taper-bar type,

48、 well worked over gimp with the end securely tacked. The finished cut length shall be 5/8 inch. The bar at end of the buttonhole shall have a minimum of four tacks, not including the first crossover stitch. 3.6.3 Pressinq. Pressing as required in Table I shall be accomplished with a heated pressing

49、iron or machine. 3.6.4 Shade markinq. The component parts of the trousers, except parts cut from ends, shall be shade marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except: a. Corrosive metal fastening devices. b. Sew-on shade tickets. c. Adhesive type tickets which show discolorations or leave traces of paper or adhesive mass on the material upon t