NAVY MIL-DTL-28920 C-1997 TROUSERS MEN-S - DRESS (OFFICER-S)《男士衣服和长裤(官员的)》.pdf

1、IINCH-POUND 1 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Propos

2、al (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by iletter. MIL-DTL-28920C (MC) 23 July 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-T-28920B (MC) 28 March 1994 DETAIL SPECIFICATION TROUSERS, MENS - DRESS (OFFICERS) This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is avail

3、able for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for officers dress trousers. 1.2. Classification. The trousers will be of the following types, classes, styles, and sizes as specified (see 6.2). Types Type I - Gene

4、ral Officers Type II - Marine Band Officers Class 1 - Cloth, tropical, wool, polyester/wool Class 2 - Cloth, broadcloth, wool Type III - Other Officers AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or

5、networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-m 9999906 2042118 832 m MIL-DTL-2892OC (MC) Waist (inches) Inseam lengths Style A Style B - With watch pocket - Without watch pocket 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 29 29 29 29 29 29 29 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 31 I 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 35 35 35 35 3

6、5 35 35 1.3. Individual orders. When trousers are custom tailored to an individual order, this specification will govern, except the detail requirements of Section 3, Table I may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practice. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. in sections

7、 3 and 4 of this specification. include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements do

8、cuments cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. The documents listed in this section are specified This section does nqt While 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks fo

9、rm a part of this document to the extent specified herein. specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2 1 . Unless otherwise 2 Provided by

10、IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. MIL-DTL-2892OC (MC) SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50 18 6 A-A- 5 O 19 6 A-A-5 O 19 8 A-A- 52 O 7 1 A-A-52 O 9 4 A-A-52 1 O 6 DDD-L-20 v-B-I V-F-106 Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven Thread, Silk Thread, Gimp, Cotto

11、n, Buttonhole Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose, (Unbleached, Bleached or Dyed) Thread, Cotton Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) Button, Sewing Hole and Button, Staple (Plastic) Fastener, Slide, Interlocking DEPA

12、RTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester and Wool MIL-DTL-20271 - Lace, Gold - Ornamental MIL-C-21115 - Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-C-29405 - Cloth, Broadcloth: Wool and Wool/Nylon STAN DARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings DEPARTMENT OF DE

13、FENSE MIL-STD-1488 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Trousers (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.3. Non-Government publ

14、ications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents no

15、t listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-0b 2042320 490 Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Th

16、reads 1968 Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966 (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927). 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this documen

17、t and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. Nothing in this document, 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and inf

18、ormation to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic m

19、aterial. The basic material for each type and class trousers shall be as follows (see 6.3). 3.3.1.1. Type I. Cloth for the type I trousers shall be cloth, gabardine, polyester/wool, dark blue, shade 2312, 10.6 ounce, conforming to type II, class 12 of MIL-C-10176, or approved 16 ounce wool elastique

20、. 3.3.1.2. Type II. 3.3.1.2.1 Class 1. Cloth for the class 1 trousers shall be cloth, tropical, wool, polyester/wool, 8.5 to 9.5 ounces, black, shade 2607, conforming to type III of MIL-C-21115. . 3.3.1.2.2 Class 2. Cloth for the class 2 trousers shall be cloth, broadcloth, wool, dark blue, shade 23

21、07, conforming to type 1 of MIL-C-29405. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-28 920C (MC) J 3.3.1.3. Tvpe III. Cloth for the type III trousers shall be cloth, gabardine, polyester/wool, sky blue, shade 2319, 10.6 ounce, conformi

22、ng to type II, class 12 of MIL-C-10176, or approved 16 ounce wool elastique. 3.3.2 Ornamental stripes. The ornamental stripes for trousers shall be made of cloth, broadcloth, wool, scarlet, shade 2501, conforming to type I of MIL-C-29405. 3.3.3 Pocketinq, lininq, and interlininq. The material for li

23、ning the pockets, waistband, right fly, pocket flaps, crotch, left fly interlining, and pocket stay shall be black polyester, polyester and cotton or polyester and rayon cloth conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. 3.3.4 Buckram. The material for interlining waistbands shall be cloth, buckram, cotton,

24、natural shade, conforming to type I of A-A-50186. 3.3.5 Stay tape. The tape for the front edge of the side pocket shall be cotton, 1/4 inch wide, conforming to type II, class 1 of A-A-52071. 3.3.6 Lace. The lace for the outseams of type II trousers shall be lace, gold, ornamental, conforming to clas

25、s 3 of MIL-DTL-20271. 3.3.7 Slide fastener. The slide fastener for the fly shall conform to type I, style 1, brass, natural finish, size LS, with the short tab pull as specified in V-F-106. The tape shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. The color of the tape shall be black, shade G, cable

26、No. 66507. 3.3.8 Thread and qimp. 3.3.8.1. Thread. performed with silk thread conforming to type I of A-A-50196 and all other seaming and stitching with cotton thread conforming to All outside seaming and stitching shall be A-A-52094. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking perm

27、itted without license from IHS-,-,-= 9999906 2042122 263 MIL-DTL-2 8 92 OC (MC ) Oper at ion Topstitching Inseaming, out seaming, seat seaming Bartacks, inside Bartacks, outside Serging Attaching belt loops Buttonholes Buttons 411 other seaming and stitching - III III II II II - - III II I Ticket No

28、. A A A 40 A 70 A A A 24 40 Ply 3 3 3 3 3 2 3 3 3 4 3 Material Silk Cotton Cotton Cotton Silk Cotton Cotton Silk Cotton Cotton Cotton Needle or Bobbin Needle Bobbin Both Bobbin Needle Both Bobbin Bobbin Needle Both Both 3.3.8.2. Gimp. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II of The butto

29、nhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. A-A-50198. 3.3.8.3. Color. shade AA, cable No. 66043 for types I and II and blue, shade AC, cable No. 66045 for type III and the color of the top thread of the bartacks at the ends of side pocket openings and the thread used for stitching the ornamentation to t

30、he trousers shall be yellow (goldenlite), shade AJ, cable No. 66051 for the gold lace and scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040 for the scarlet stripe (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). The color of thread and gimp shall be black, 3.3.8.4. Colorfastnes

31、s. fastness to wet (dry) cleaning and, in addition, the silk thread shall show good fastness to light when tested as specified in applicable thread specifications. The thread and gimp shall show good 3.3.9 Buttons. Buttons shall conform to type II, class D, glossy finish, style 4, 22 line and 27 lin

32、e of V-B-871. color of the buttons shall be black, shade BT for types I and II and blue, shade BV, cable No. 62003 for type III (see DoD Standard Shades for Buttons 1966). The 3.3.10 Labels. personal-identification-size-instruction label. The combination Each pair of trousers shall have a combinatio

33、n 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-9999906 2042123 LTT = MIL-DTL-2 8 92 OC (MC) label shall conform to type VI, class 14 of DDD-L-20. The label shall conform to the colorfastness and writing test requirements of DDD-L-20. The content

34、 (inscription) and format of the combination label shall be as follows: Nomenclature: Fiber Content: Size: Contract nunber: Name of contractor: DRY CLEAN ONLY 3.4. Desiqn. The trousers shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design as shown in Figures 1, 2, and 3, having a two-piece lined waistband with outl

35、et at center back, button french-type fly with slide fastener closure, seven belt loops, side pockets with straight opening, two back pockets with flaps to button, hip darts, finished leg bottoms, with watch pocket, style A, or without watch pocket, style B. The type II trousers shall have ornamenta

36、l gold lace; the types I and III trousers shall have ornamental scarlet stripes, two inches wide for type I and 1-1/2 inches wide for type III. 3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be u

37、sed only as a guide for cutting the suppliers working patterns. The contractors working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns. The standard patterns provide a 1/2 inch allowance for crotch seam and 3/8 inch allowance for all other seams, except as otherwise specified herein, and seat

38、seam outlet at waist in accordance with patterns. The patterns provide a three inch allowance for bottom turnup of legs. The standard patterns show size, directional lines for cutting, and are marked and notched for proper placement and assembly of the component parts. 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. T

39、he component parts for the trousers shall be cut from the specified materials in accordance with the pattern parts indicated below: 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-m 9999906 2042324 O36 m PATTERN NOMENCLATURE MIL-DTL-2892OC (MC) NO.

40、 OF CUT PARTS ITEM Waistband interlining 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 2 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22 23 Material: Basic Front Back Right fly Left fly Facing, side pocket Bearer, side pocket Facing and cord piece, hip pocket Facing, watch pocket (style A trousers) Flap, hip pocket

41、 Waistband Belt loops, strip Buttonhole tab 2 2 1 1 2 2 4 1 2 2 1 2 Material: Cloth, twill, polyester, polyester and cotton or polyester and rayon Type III Side pocket Hip pocket Watch pocket (style A trousers) Type I Stay, side pocket Crotch lining Left fly interlining Right fly lining Hip pocket f

42、lap lining Waistband lining Material: Cloth, buckram, cotton I 3.6. Construction 3.6.1 Manufacturinq requirements. The trousers shall be manufactured in strict accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I. The supplier is not required to follow the ex

43、act sequence of the 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-m 9999706 2OY2125 T72 m MIL-DTL-28920C (MC) operations listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the trousers. 3.6.1.1. Stitches, seams and stitc

44、hinqs. The stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. 3.6.1.2. Overedqe stitchinq. Overedge or serge stitching shall be done on serging machines with knife attachment properly set to trim the raw edge when overedged without cutting the material. 3.6.1.3. Tac

45、kinq and backstitchinq. Ends of seams and stitching produced with stitch type 301, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch. When stitch type 401 is use

46、d, ends of seams and stitching shall be caught in other seams or stitching, and skipped stitches and thread breaks may be repaired using stitch type 301 backstitched not less than 1/2 inch on each side of the skip or break. 3.6.2 Shade markinq. The component parts of the trousers shall be shade mark

47、ed to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method of shade marking may be used except: a. Corrosive metal fastening devices. b. Sew-on shade tickets. c. Adhesive type tickets which show discolorations or leave traces of paper or adhesive mass on the material upon the removal o

48、f the tickets. 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NO - 1 2 9999906 2042326 909 MIL-DTL-28920C (MC) TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements. OPERATION httinq. i. Cut the trousers in strict iccordance with the patterns furnished by the Gover

49、nment. . Cut the material in the iirection indicated by directional lines on the patterns. Lay fronts ind backs so that the directional tines are in the warp direction. Che directional lines may deviate from the warp direction by not more chan 1 inch on both fronts and 3acks. Measurements shall be taken rom the top and bottom of the iirectional line on patterns to the selvage edge of the fabr