NAVY MIL-DTL-29384 B-1997 VEST WOMEN-S - SCARLET DRESS (GENERAL OFFICER-S)《女士深红衣服和背心(普通官员的)》.pdf

1、990b 2042392 687 MIL-DTL-29384B (MC) 23 Julv 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-V-2 9 3 8 4A (MC ) 14 April 1994 DETAIL SPECIFICATION VEST, WOMENS - SCARLET, DRESS (GENERAL OFFICERS) This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of tle Navy, and is available for use by all Departments an

2、d Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a scarlet vest for wear by general officers. 1.2. Classification. The vest will be of one type in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2). 1.3. Schedule of sizes Short 4 6 8 10 12 14 Requl

3、ar 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 Low 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardizatio

4、n Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC NfA FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; disibution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- W 99

5、99906 2042193 513 = 1 , 1.3 Individual orders. When the vest is custom tailored to an individual order, this specification shall govern, except the detailed requirements of Section 3, Table I may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practice. 2, APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. Gen

6、eral. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completen

7、ess of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards,

8、 and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2).

9、 SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50196 - Thread, Silk A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached or Dyed) A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton I DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-

10、C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-DTL-3461- Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-C-21115 - Cloth, Tropical, Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles STANDARDS FEDERAL 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from I

11、HS-,-,-m 0b 2042394 45T m . MIL-DTL-293 84B(MC) P FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 191 11-5

12、094.) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specifi

13、ed, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). ANSUASQC 2 1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Applications for copies should be addressed to The American National Standards Insti- tute, 11 West

14、42nd Street, New York, NY 10036) Deparment of Defense OD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968 Department of Defense OD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966 (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 200 Lexing

15、ton Ave., New York, NY 10016.) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption

16、 has been obtained. 3 I REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see

17、 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-293 84BWC) 4 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, wool, tropical, sca

18、rlet, shade 2502 (see 6.3), 10.5 ounce, conforming to type I, class 1 of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.2 Lininq. The material for lining the fronts, interlining at the eyelet opening and making the back shall be cloth, rayon, scarlet, shade 2506 (see 6.3), 4.5 ounce, conforming to class 3 Of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3 Fro

19、nt interlininq. The material for interlining the vest fronts and side fronts shall be cloth, fusible, conforming to type V, class 1, style B of MIL-C-44296. 3.3.4 Tape. The tape for the breakline for the lapel front, button edge and armholes shall be cotton, unbleached, 1/4 inch wide conforming to t

20、ype II, class 1 of A-A-52071 except the requirement for nonfiberious material shall not apply. 3.3.5 Thread. 3.3.5.1. Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196 except the requirement for extractable material shall not apply; type I, ticket No. A, 3-ply for eyelets, bartacking and top a

21、nd edgestitching; ticket No. B and F, 3-ply for buttonholes, needle and bobbin respectively; type III, ticket No. C, 2-ply for handfelling. 3.3.5.2. Cotton thread. be accomplished with cotton thread conforming to type III, ticket No, A, 3-ply of A-A-52094. good commercial grade. All inside seaming a

22、nd stitching shall The thread for basting shall be of 3.3.5.3. Color and colorfastness. thread shall be dyed scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040, and shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning and, in addition, the silk thread shall show good fastness to light. All colorfastness tests shall be con

23、ducted as specified in the applicable thread specification. Basting thread shall be white or unbleached (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). All thread except basting 3.3.6 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. 8, soft or glazed finis

24、h, Conforming to type I or type II of 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. 9999906 2042396 222 A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be scarlet shade W, cable No. 66040, and shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.7 Button

25、s. The buttons shall be metal, gold plated, insignia, officers design, 22-line, regular shank, conforming to type I, style 4, class 4, subclass 1 of MIL-DTL-3461 (see DoD Standard Shades for Buttons 1966). 3.3.7.1. Toqqles, rinq. The insignia buttons specified in 3.3.7 shall be secured to the vest w

26、ith ring type toggles conforming to the requirements of MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.8 Labels. Each vest shall have an identification label and a size label conforming to DDD-L-20 as specified herein. The vest is intended to be dry cleaned, therefore, the labels shall show fastness to dry cleaning. 3.3.8.1. Id

27、entification label. The identification label shall be type VI, class 1 of DDD-L-20 and shall measure not less than 2-1/2 by 1-1/2 inches. The content and format shall be as follows : Nomenclature: Name of contractor: Wool Products Act information NOTE: Size of characters for “Name of contractor“ sha

28、ll be minimum 6 point, approximately 1/16 inch. 3.3.8.2. Size label. The size label shall be type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20 and shall measure not less than 1-1/2 inches by 1 inch. The label shall consist of the numerical size designation specified in 1.2, followed by the letter S, R or L for Short, Re

29、gular or Long, respectively, as shown by the following example: 14 R 3.4. Desiqn. The vest shall be in the U.S. Marine Corps design shown on Figures 1 through 3 (see 6.4), a fully lined, four button, single breasted vest with four worked eyelets in the left front for detachable buttons, back waist d

30、arts, two-piece back, and shawl type lapel. 3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-m 9999906 2042397 Lb9 m MIL-DTL-2

31、93 84B(MC) altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working patterns. patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns. The standard patterns provide 3/8 inch allowance for joining front and side front, shoulder, bust dart and back seam and 1/4 inch allowa

32、nce for all other seams, with a side outlet according to the pattern. Standard patterns show size and are marked and notched for proper cutting, placement and assembly of component parts. The contractors working Front Side front Front facing 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The vests shall be cut from t

33、he specified materials in accordance with the pattern parts as 2 2 2 follows: rEE- Back Front Side front Eyelet opening lining Facing lining p- 4 2 2 1 1 4 15 Front Side front 10 2 2 I 3.6.1 Manufacturinq requirements. The vests shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch,

34、 seam and stitching type specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of the operations as listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the vests. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without licen

35、se from IHS-,-,-NO m 9999906 2042398 OT5 D MIL-DTL-29384B(MC) TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements. 3PERATION :ut tinq. a. Cut vest in strict accordance with patterns furnished. b. Cut all materials in the direction indicated by the directional lines on the patterns. c. Cut all wool components of the

36、 vest from one piece of basic material. d. Cut front lining, side fronts and back from one piece of rayon satin material. All other rayon parts may be cut from ends. e. Cut the vest front interlining in accordance with the pattern furnished. f. The use of drill holes is prohibited. Replacement of da

37、maaed parts. a. Replace at time of cutting any part containing damages such as holes or seriously weakening defects such as smashes, multiple floats, and slubs likely to develop into holes. b. Replace any part damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chews which may be expected to develop

38、into a hole, scissor or knife cuts, tears, mends or burns. STCH TYPE SEAM/ STCH TYPE STCH/ IN NDL BOB/ LPR 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-%99906 2042399 T3L MIL,-DTL-Z9384B(MC) TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements - Continued. OPERA

39、TION Shade markinq. a. Mark all component parts cut from one piece of basic and lining materials to insure uniform shade and size throughout the vest. b. The use of tickets with metal fastening devices is prohibited on the rayon material. c. Adhesive type shade ticket, when used, shall be adhered to

40、 the inside of the vest. Labelinq. Finished appearance. The labels shall be correctly positioned and securely attached. a. Position the identification label in front lining approximately 1 inch from the finished side seam and approximately 4 inches from armhole and seam on all sides 1/8 inch from ea

41、ch edge. b. The size label shall be centered on the inside right back 1-1/2 to 2 inches below the neck and seamed 1/8 inch from all edges. Make fronts. a. Position the left and right front interlining on the underside of their respective vest fronts and fuse (see 3.6.3). b. Position the left and rig

42、ht side front interlining on the underside of their respective side fronts and fuse (see 3.6.3). c. Position facing rayon lining on the inside of left front with front and bottom edges even. Stitch the two piles together 1/8 inch from bottom and front edge. STCH TYPE 301 301 301 SEAM/ STCH TYPE LSbj

43、 -1 LSbj-1 SSa-1 STCH/I N 12-14 12-14 10-14 NDL A A A BOB / LPR A A A 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-9999906 2042200 583 MIL-DTL-293 84B(MC) TABLE I. Manufacturins requirements - Continued. NO / OPERATION Make fronts. (contd) d. Po

44、sition a 1 inch wide by 6 inch long strip of fusable material on the upper and low back raw edge of lining and interlining and fuse. Assemble front and side fronts. a. Fold the side front face to face, matching the cut edges to the bust dart and stitch the entire length of the dart 1/4 inch from cut

45、 edges at the back end and tapering to a point at the front end. The stitching shall extend approximately 1/2 inch beyond the point and be securely backtacked. b. Position front and side fronts back to back with notches matching and join together with 3/8 inch seam. c. Spread open the dart seams and

46、 front side joining seams and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron or pressing machine. Dress riqht front. a. Dress right front and right front facing from top edge to lower end for eyelet stand as indicated by marks on pattern. Stitch bridle tape to lapel. Finished appearance. The brid

47、le tape shall be stitched along the breakline with the proper tensions to allow the lapel to roll properly in the finished vest. a. Position the 1/4 inch wide bridle tape on the interlining side of the fronts along the breakline of the lapel and with the front edge of the tape in line with the break

48、line. The tape shall extend from the gorge to approximately 1 inch above the lower edge of lapel. STCH TYPE 301 301 SEAM/ STCH TYPE SSa-1 SSa-1 STCH/I N 10-14 10-14 NDL BOB/ LPR 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-U 9999906 2042203 4LT

49、NO 8 9 10 MIL-DTL-293 84B(MC) TABLE I. Manufacturins requirements - Continued. OPERATI ON stitch bridle tape to lapel. (cont I d) b. Stitch the tape through the front of the vest evenly, smoothly and with normal tension, holding the tape taut and working in 1/2 to 5/8 inch fullness along the breakline. The tape shall be stitched 1/16 inch from each edge. Make evelets in left front.