NAVY MIL-DTL-29389 B-1997 VEST MAN-S - SCARLET DRESS (GENERAL OFFICER-S)《女士深红衣服和背心(将官的)》.pdf

1、m 9Ob 2042224 TL7 m t I INCH-POUND I MIL-DTL-29389B (MC) 28 July 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-V-2938 9A (MC) 14 April 1994 DETAIL SPECIFICATION VEST, MANS - SCARLET, DRESS (GENERAL OFFICERS) This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all

2、Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a scarlet vest for wear by general officers. 1.2. Classification. The vest will be of one type in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2). Schedule of sizes Short Reqular Lon

3、q Extra Lonq 36 36 36 36 38 38 38 38 40 40 40 40 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standard

4、ization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,

5、-,-E 9999906 20q2225 953 MIL-DTL-29389B (MC) Schedule of sizes Short Reqular Lonq Extra Lonq 42 44 42 44 46 42 44 46 42 44 1.3. Individual orders. When the vest is custom tailored to an individual order, this specification shall govern, except the detailed requirements of Section 3, Table I may be m

6、odified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practice. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended

7、 for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. 2.2. Government

8、 documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index o

9、f Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPEC1 FICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50196 - Thread, Silk A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton DDD-L-20 - Label: For Cloth

10、ing, Equipage, and Tentage, (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) (General Use) 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- , H 9999906 2042226 89T M MIL-DTL-2 938 9B (MC) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon

11、 MIL-DTL-3461- Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-C-21115 - Cloth, Tropical, Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitching (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available

12、 from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD

13、 adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). ANSI/ASQC 21.4 -Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attribute

14、s (Applications for copies should be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036) Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968 Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966 (

15、Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 200 Lexington Ave., New York, NY 10016.) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence.

16、 Nothing in this document, 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-= 999990b 2042227 726 MIL-DTL-29389B (MC) however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sa

17、mple. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, the specification shall govern. in which case 3.2. First article. subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. When speci

18、fied (see 6.2), a sample shall be 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, wool, tropical, scarlet, shade 2502 (see 6.3), 10.5 ounce, conforming to type V, class 1, style B of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.2 Lininq. The material for the back, face interlining, hanging pockets, bac

19、k straps and eyelet opening and for lining the fronts shall be cloth, rayon, scarlet, shade 2506 (see 6.3), 4.5 ounce, conforming to class 3 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3 Front interlininq. The material for interlining the vest fronts and pocket welts shall be cloth, fusible, conforming to type V, class 1, st

20、yle B of MIL-C-44296. 3.3.4 Tape. The tape for the breakline for the lapel front, button edge and for reinforcing the folded edge of the pocket welt and front armholes shall be cotton, unbleached, 1/4 inch wide conforming to type II, class 1 of A-A-52071, except the requirement for nonfiberious mate

21、rial shall not apply. 3.3.5 Thread. 3.3.5.1. Silk thread. except the requirement for extractable material shall not apply; type I, ticket No. A, 3-ply for eyelets, bartacking and top and edge stitching; ticket No. B and F, 3-ply for buttonholes, needle and bobbin respectively; type III, ticket No. C

22、, 2-ply for handfelling. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196 3.3.5.2. Cotton thread. be accomplished with cotton thread conforming to type III, ticket 4 All inside seaming and stitching shall Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-m 9

23、999906 2042228 662 m MIL-DTL-2 938 9B (MC) No. A, 3-ply of A-A-52094. The thread for basting shall be of good commercial grade. 3.3.5.3. Color and colorfastness. thread shall be dyed scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040, and shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning and, in addition, the silk thre

24、ad shall show good fastness to light. All colorfastness tests shall be conducted as specified in the applicable thread specification. Basting thread shall be white or unbleached (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). All thread except basting 3.3.6 Gim

25、p. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or type II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040, and shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.7 Buttons. The buttons shall be metal, gold plated, insignia,

26、officers design, 22-line, regular shank, conforming to type I, style 4, class 4, subclass 1 of MIL-DTL-3461 (see DoD Standard Shades for Buttons 1966). 3.3.7.1. Toqqles, rinq. The insignia buttons specified in 3.3.7 shall be secured to the vest with ring type toggles conforming to the requirements o

27、f MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.8 Buckle. The buckle shall be made of a rust-resistant metal, nickel plated, with outside overall dimensions of one inch by 7/8 inch. Inside opening for width of strap shall be 3/4 inch and inside opening for thickness of strap shall be 1/4 inch. Length of double prongs shall be

28、11/32 inch to 13/32 inch. 3.3.9 Labels. Each vest shall have an identification label and a size label conforming to DDD-L-20 as specified herein. The vest is intended to be dry cleaned, therefore, the labels shall show fastness to dry cleaning. 3.3.9.1. Identification label. The identification label

29、 shall be type VI, c1,ass 1 of DDD-L-20 and shall measure not less than 2-1/2 by 1-1/2 inches. The content and format shall be as follows: 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-E 9999906 2042229 5T9 ITEM 1 2 3 MIL-DTL-29389B (MC) PATTERN

30、NOMENCLATURE I NO. OF CUT PARTS Material: Cloth, tropical, wool Front Front facing Pocket welt 2 2 2 Nomenclature: (Item Description) Name of contractor: Wool Products Act information NOTE: Size of characters for “Name of contractor“ shall be minimum 6 point, approximately 1/16 inch. 3.3.9.2. Size l

31、abel. DDD-L-20 and shall measure not less than 1-1/2 inches by 1 inch. The label shall consist of the numerical size designation specified in 1.2, followed by the letter S, R, L, or XL for Short, Regular, Long, or Extra Long respectively, as shown by the following example: The size label shall be ty

32、pe VI, class 2 of 40 R 3.4. Desiqn. shown on Figures 1 through 3 (see 6-41, a fully lined, four button, single breasted vest with four worked eyelets in the right front for detachable buttons, front and back waist darts, two-piece back, two hanging pockets with welts shawl type lapel and adjustable

33、back straps to buckle. The vest shall be in the U.S. Marine Corps design 3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the con tractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working patterns. patt

34、erns shall be identical to the standard patterns. standard patterns provide 3/8 inch allowance for joining front and side front, shoulder, bust dart and back seam and 1/4 inch allowance for all other seams, with a side outlet according to the pattern. notched for proper cutting, placement and assemb

35、ly of component parts. The contractors working The Standard patterns show size and are marked and 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. specified materials in accordance with the pattern parts as follows: The vests shall be cut from the 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted w

36、ithout license from IHS-,-,-rn 9999906 2042230 210 rn MIL-DTL-29389B (MC) ITEM 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 PATTERN NOMENCLATURE I NO. OF CUT PARTS Material: Cloth, satin, rayon (lining) Back 4 Front 2 Pocket 4 Eyelet opening lining 1 Facing interlining 1 Strap, adjustment 2 Material: Cloth, nonwoven fusibl

37、e Front 2 Pocket welt 2 Marker Evelet 3.6. Construction. 3.6.1 Manufacturinq requirements. The vests shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam and stitching type specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of the operations as

38、listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the vests. TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements. - N O 1 OPE RAT I ON STCH TYPE Cuttinq. a. Cut vest in strict accordance with patterns furnished. b. Cut all materials in the direction indicated by the directional lines on t

39、he patterns. c. Cut all wool components of the vest from one piece of basic material. d. Cut front lining, backs and adjustment straps from one piece of rayon material. All other rayon parts may be cut from ends. e. Cut the vest front and pocket welt interlining in accordance with the pattern furnis

40、hed. 7 SEAM/ STCH TYPE STCH/IN NDL BOB / LPR Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-N O 1 - 2 3 4 E 7999906 2042233 157 MIL-DTL-2938 9B (MC) TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements - Continued. 3PERATION Cuttinq. (contd) f. The use of drill hole

41、s is prohibited. Replacement of damaqed parts. a. Replace at time of cutting any part containing damages such as holes or seriously weakening defects such as smashes, multiple floats, and slubs likely to develop into holes. b. Replace any part damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chews

42、 which may be expected to develop into a hole, scissor or knife cuts, tears, mends or burns. Shade markinq. a. Mark all component parts cut from one piece of basic and lining materials to insure uniform shade and size throughout the vest. b. The use of tickets with metal fastening devices is prohibi

43、ted on the rayon material. c. Adhesive type shade ticket, when used, shall be adhered to the inside of the vest. Labeling. Finished appearance. The labels shall be correctly positioned and securely attached. a. Position the identification label in front lining approximately 1 inch from the finished

44、side seam and approximately 4 inches from armhole and seam on all sides 1/8 inch from each edge. b. The size label shall be centered on the inside right back 1-1/2 to 2 inches below the neck and seamed 1/8 inch from all edges. STCH TYPE 301 301 SEAM/ STCH TYPE LSbj -1 LSbj-1 STCH/IN 10-14 10-14 N DL

45、 BOB / LPR 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-9999906 2042232 093 MIL-DTL-29389B (MC) N O 5 - 6 TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements - Continued. )PERAT ION take pocket welt. Finished appearance. The welt shall De uniformly made and sti

46、tched, and shall finish smooth and flat without twists, puckers or pleats. 3. The welt shall be made of one ?ly of basic material and one ply of interlining. b. Position welt interlining to the inside of each welt and fuse (see 3.6.3). c. Fold the welt at the notches, and close the ends of the welt

47、with a 114 inch seam. Trim the corners of the welt for proper turning. d. Turn the welt right side out, completely working out the seamed edges and corners. Edgestitch the welt uniformly 1/16 inch from the seamed and folded edges. Make adjustment straps. Finished appearance. The strap shall be two-p

48、iece, uniform in appearance and shall finish smooth and flat without twists, pleats, puckers or other distortions. The seam shall be centered on the underside of the strap. The strap shall finish 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inches wide at the wide end and 5/8 and 3/4 inch wide at the narrow end. a. Each strap sh

49、all be made of a single ply of rayon material. b. Fold the material for each strap in half lengthwise forming two plies. Seam the two plies together along the length, /4 inch from the raw edge. c. Spread open the seams and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron. STCH TYPE 301 301 301 SEAM/ STCH TYPE SSe-2 SSe-2 (b) (seam edges) OSf-1 (folded SSa-1 ;TCH/IN 10-14 10-14 10-14 NDL A (silk ) A (s