NAVY MIL-DTL-29393 B-1997 COAT WOMEN-S - FULL DRESS SCARLET U S MARINE BAND MUSICIAN《美国舰队女士礼服外套》.pdf

1、I INCH-POUND I MIL-DTL-29393B (MC) 16 October 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-Z9393A(MC) 9 June 1995 DETAIL SPECIFICATION COAT, WOMENS - FULL DRESS, SCARLET, U.S. MARINE BAND, MUSICIAN This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departm

2、ents and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This Specification covers the requirements for womens musicians scarlet wool full dress coats.- 1.2. Classification. The coats will be of one type in the following sizes, as specified (see 6.2). Beneficial comments (recommendations

3、, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposa4 (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this doc

4、ument or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29393B 991990b 2054639 854 = MIL-DTL-29393B (MC) Schedule of sizes Short R

5、eqular Lonq 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 - 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 1.3. Individual orders. When the coat is custom tailored to an individual order, this specification will govern, except that the detail requirements of Section 3, Table I may be modified to the extent necessary for good cu

6、stom tailoring practices. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this- specification or recommended for additional information or as example

7、s. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standar

8、ds, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) a

9、nd supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). S PECI FI CAT IONS FEDERAL A-A-.50186 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven A-A-50196 - Thread, Silk 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-* MIL-DTL-29393B I 9999706 2054640 576 =

10、 MIL-DTL-29393B (MC) A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (Unbleached, Bleached or Dyed) Polyester Blend (

11、General Use) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-3 68 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-F-495 - Finish, Chemical, Black, For Copper Alloys MIL-DTL-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-P-15064 - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head MIL-E-20652 - Eyelets, Metallic and Eyelet Washers M

12、IL-C-21115 - Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-C-41820 - Cloth, Gabardine, Polyester and Rayon MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusible MIL-DTL-82114 - Coat Fronts - For Coats, Musicians (General Specification for) STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile, Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams and S

13、titchings (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094. ) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this

14、document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents c

15、ited in the solicitation (see 6.2). ANSI/ASQC 21.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection By Attributes 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29393B m 9999906 2054643 402 m MIL-DTL-29393B (MC) (Application for copies shou

16、ld be addressed to the American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036.) Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968 (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, I

17、nc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927. ) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless

18、 a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article.

19、 When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, wool, tropical, scarlet, shade 2502 (see 6.31, 10.5 ounce conforming to type I, class 1 of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.2 Collar and

20、 sleeve cuff material. The material for the collar and cuffs shall be cloth, polyester/wool blend, black, shade 2607 (see 6.3), conforming to type III, class 1 of . MIL-C-21115. 3.3.3 Lininq. The material for lining the coats and collar, and for making the collar eyelets covers, front facing, eyelet

21、 cover, coat hanger and straps to secure the lining to the bottom edge of coat, shall be cloth, rayon twill, scarlet, shade 2506 (see 6.3), conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29393B 99999Ob 2

22、054b42 349 MIL-DTL-2 9393B (MC) 3.3.3.1. Bias bindinq. The binding for underarm shields shall be bias cut out of the lining material specified in 3.3.3. The binding shall be cut 5/8 to 7/8 inches wide and shall have sized edges. 3.3.4 Pipinq. The material for piping shall be cloth, gabardine, polyes

23、ter and rayon, white, shade 3042 (see 6.3), conforming to type I of MIL-C-41820, cut 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide for piping the lower collar edge and ornamental sleeve cuff and 1 inch wide for piping the front and bottom edges of coat and seams joining the center back to the skirt of the coat. 3.3.4.1. Vin

24、yl pipinq. The white vinyl cord for piping the upper edge of the collar shall be tubular, with a 7/16 inch wide welt and serrated edges. 3.3.5 Stays, bindinqs and interlininq. The stays for armhole and shoulder seams, the binding for the neck edge of the coat front, front interlining, interlining st

25、ay, and the collar interlining shall be cut from twill or plain weave polyester or polyester blend conforming to A-A-52106. 3.3.6 Front interlininq. The fusible interlining for the upper and lower fronts shall be a twill weave conforming to type V of MIL-C-44296, in a black or charcoal shade. 3.3.7

26、Collar interlininq. The material for interlining the collar shall be cloth, cotton, buckram, double texture, laminated, starch finish, natural color, conforming to type IV of A-A-50186. The weight of the laminated cloth shall be 21 to 23 ounces per square yard. 3.3.7.1. Plastic. The plastic strip us

27、ed in the collar interlining shall be clear plastic pattern stock 0.20 inches thick. It shall be cut using the cotton buckram pattern. 3.3.8 Reinforcement discs. The reinforcement discs for buttons secured to the back skirt seam, with ring toggle, shall be punched from the cloth, cotton, buckram spe

28、cified in 3.3.7. The reinforcement discs shall be 7/8 inch in diameter with a 1/8 inch diameter hole at the center. 3.3.9 Coat.fronts. The coat fronts shall conform to class 3 of MIL-DTL-82114. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DT

29、L-29393B = 77777Ob 2054b43 285 W MIL-DTL-29393B (MC) 3.3.10 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to the requirements of type III, class 2 of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.11 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to type IV of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.12 Stay tape. The stay tape for the armholes

30、and waist seam shall be cotton, 1/4 inch wide, conforming to type II, class 1 of A-A-52071, except the requirement for non-fibrous material shall not apply. 3.3.13 Thread. 3.3.13.1. Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196. The thread for machine sewing shall conform to type I, ticket

31、 No. A for all outside seaming and stitching; ticket No. B and ticket No. F for buttonhole, needle and looper threads, respectively; ticket No. O for machine felling. The thread for hand sewing shall be type III, ticket No. C, 2-ply. 3.3.13.2. Cotton, thread. The cotton thread shall conform to A-A-5

32、2094, type III mercerized finish, ticket No. A, 3-ply for all inside seaming and stitching and overedge stitching and type II glazed finish, ticket No. 24, 4-ply for machine tacking armholes. The thread for basting shall be good commercial grade. As an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester, co

33、tton covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 50, 2 or 3-ply may be used for seaming and ticket No. 70, 2-ply may be used for overedging. 3.3.13.3. Color and colorfastness. All threads shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040 (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades f

34、or Sewing Threads 1968), except: the silk thread for stitching collar, cuffs and braid, which shall be black; the cotton thread for basting and machine tacking armhole, which may be white; and the cotton thread for overedge stitching the piping at the bottom edge of coat which shall be white. The co

35、lored threads shall show the following colorfastness when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification: Thread Color Wet (dry) cleaninq Liqht Cotton Scarlet Good Silk Scarlet Fair Silk Black Good 6 - Fair Good Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without

36、 license from IHS-,-,-. 3.3.14 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040 and shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.15 Ornamental braid. The or

37、namental braid for the front of the coats shall be mohair, black, tubular, and 3/8 - + 1/16 inches wide, conforming to the following: Weave Weight per gross yard (ounces) Plain 35 minimum Picks per inch 9 minimum Total carriers 16 minimum Ends per carriers 6 minimum Breaking strength (pounds) 105 mi

38、nimum Shrinkage: - length (percent) - width (inches) Colorfastness to: - wet (dry) cleaning - light 2.0 maximum Not less than the original width Good Good 3.3.16 Buttons. 3.3.16.1. Insiqnia buttons. The insignia buttons shall be metal, gold plated, 27-line and 40-line conforming to type I, style 3,

39、class A, subclass 1 of MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.16.2. Rinq toqqles. Ring toggles for securing buttons to fronts, back, and sleeves shall conform to MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.17 Collar closure hook and eye. The hook and eye for closing the collar shall be brass, black japanned finish or black chemical finish in acc

40、ordance with MIL-F-495, followed by a clear lacquer coating and conform to the requirements of Figure 8. 3.3.18 Collar eyelets. The eyelets for the collar shall be brass, rolled flange type, with the barrel scored six to eight 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted wi

41、thout license from IHS-,-,-Il IL - D T L - 2 9 3 9 3 B 9999706 2054645 058 MIL-DTL-2 9 3 93B (MC) scores. The eyelets shall conform to MIL-E-20652, sheet 1A-BE108 and be enameled a black shade. 3.3.19 Labels. Each coat shall have a combination instruction identification label and size label as detai

42、led in 3.3.19.1 and 3.3.19.2. The coat is intended to be dry cleaned and the labels shall show fastness to dry cleaning. 3.3.19.1. Combination instruction identification label. The combination instruction identification label shall conform to type VI, classes 1 and 3 (combined) of DDD-L-20 except al

43、l printing and the space between the lines of printing shall be minimum 10 point (approximately 1/8 inch). The content and format shall be as follows: Nomenclature: (item description) Contract number: Name of contractor: Wool Products Act information DRY CLEAN ONLY 3.3.19.2. Size label. The size lab

44、el shall conform to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The label shall consist of the numerical size designation specified in 1.2 followed by the-letter S, R, or L, for Short, Regular and Long, as shown by the following example: 14R 3.4. Desiqn. The coat shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design shown on Fig

45、ures 1 through 4, a single-breasted, fully lined coat with 12 gold pleated insignia buttons on the left front and six gold plated insignia buttons on the right front. It shall have upper fronts with black braid, skirt type lower body parts with waist darts, a waist seam, a three-piece back with two

46、gold plated insignia buttons at the waist, ornamental sleeve cuffs with gold plated insignia buttons, a stand up collar with hook and eye for front closure and metal collar eyelets, and cloth loops on each shoulder for attaching epaulets. The side and bottom edges of the collar, the front and bottom

47、 edges of the coat, the seam joining the skirt to the center back, and the top edge of the ornamental sleeve cuff shall be piped with white cloth. The top edge of the collar shall be piped with white vinyl cord. 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license f

48、rom IHS-,-,-3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working patterns. patterns shall be identical to the standard pattern. standard patt

49、ern shall provide 3/4 inch allowance for side seams and for seam joining the skirt to the center back and 3/8 inch allowance for all other seams except as otherwise specified in Table I. Standard patterns show size and are marked and notched for proper cutting, placement and assembly of component parts. The contractors working The PATTERN NOMENCLATURE 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The coats shall be cut from the materials sp