NAVY MIL-DTL-29394 C-1997 SKIRTS WOMEN-S - EVENING DRESS U S MARINE BAND (MUSICIAN-S)《美国舰队女士夜礼服裙子》.pdf

1、I INCH-POUND I MIL-DTL-2 9394C (MC) 8 October 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-S-29394B (MC) 28 February 1994 DETAIL SPECIFICATION SKIRTS, WOMENS - EVENING DRESS, U.S. MARINE BAND (MUSICIANS) This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Dep

2、artments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers the requirements for evening dress skirts for wear by female members of the U.S. Marine Corps Band. 1.2. Classification. The skirts will be of one type in the following classes, sizes and lengths (see

3、6.2): Class 1 - Polyester/Wool, Gabardine, Sky Blue, Shade 2319 Class 2 - Gabardine, Polyester/Rayon, White, Shade 2400 Class 3 - Polyester/Wool, Gabardine, Dark Blue, Shade 2312 Beneficial comments (recommendations, addltions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this

4、document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public r

5、elease; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-2939YC 999990b 2055493 936 II I MIL-DTL-2 9394C (MC) Ii Schedule of sizes Short Reqular Lonq 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 2

6、. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended,for additional information or as examples. While every effort has be

7、en made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The follo

8、wing specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited

9、 in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-5 O 19 8 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester A-A- 52 O 9 4 - Thread, Cotton A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Covered Polyester Blend 2 Provided by IHSNot for Resale

10、No reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIh-DTL-2939qC 99%9986 20554%4 872 MIL-DTL-29394C (MC) V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, V-F-106 - Fastener, Slide, Interlocking DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) (Plastic) DEPART

11、MENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-B-371 - Braid, Textile, Tubular MIL-T-5237 - Tape, Textile; Webbing, Textile; Rayon MIL-C-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester and Wool MIL-C-41820 - Cloth, Gabardine, Polyester and Rayon STAN DARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751

12、- Stitches, Seams and Stitchings DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-STD-984 - Provisions for Size Labeling of Womens MIL-STD-1609 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Womens Uniform Clothing Skirts (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the

13、Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094. ) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted

14、are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for

15、 Sewing Threads 1968 Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966 (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927. ) Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted witho

16、ut license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29394C (MC) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a speci

17、fic exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2. First article.

18、 When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic materials. The basic material for each class of skirt shall be as follows: 3.3.1.1. Class 1. Cloth, 10.6 ounce polyester/wool gabardine, sky blue, shade 2319 conform

19、ing to type II, class 12 of MIL-C-10176. 3.3.1.2. Class 2. Cloth, 8 ounce, polyester/rayon gabardine, white, shade 2400 conforming to type III, class.1 of MIL-C-41820. 3.3.1.3. Class 3. Cloth, 10.6 ounce, polyester/wool gabardine, dark blue, shade 2312 conforming to type II, class 12 of MIL-C-1017 6

20、. 3.3.2 Lininq. The material for lining the skirts shall be cloth, twill, rayon, Conforming to class 1 (3.7 ounces) of MIL-C-368 in the following colors: 3.3.2.1. Classes 1 and 3. Black, shade 2604. 3.3.2.2. Class 2. White, shade 3001. 3.3.3 Waistband interlininq. The waistband interlining material

21、shall be cloth, twill or plain weave, polyester or polyester blend conforming to A-A-52106 in shade black for classes 1 and 3 and white for class 2. A fusible waistband interlining of 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-suitable materia

22、l may be substituted for the polyester and cotton twill. 3.3.4 Finishinq tape. skirt shall be tape, textile, rayon conforming to type I of MIL-T-5237. in 3.3.6.2. The tape for finishing the bottom of the The color shall be the same as specified for thread 3.3.5 Hanqer braid. braid, textile, tubular,

23、 conforming to type IX, class 1 of MIL-B-371. in 3.3.6.2. The braid for the skirt hangers shall be The color shall be the same as specified for thread 3.3.6 Thread. Cotton thread shall be used conforming to A-A-52094 as follows: Use Type Ticket No. Ply Buttonholes III O 3 Seams, stitching I 30,50 3

24、Buttons II 16,24 4 As an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester, cotton-covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 70, 2-ply may be used. 3.3.6.1. Automatic button sewinq. If an automatic machine which sews and shanks (wraps) the buttons in one operation is used, the thread shall be wax

25、ed. 3.3.6.2. Color. The color of the thread shall be as follows: Class 1 - Navy Blue, shade AT, cable No. 66060 Class 2 - White, shade AH, cable No. 66050 Class 3 - Black, shade AA, cable No. 66043 (See DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardization Shades for Sewing Threads 1968.) 3.3.6.3. Col

26、orfastness. The colored thread shall show fastness to light and wet (dry) cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the colored thread shall show “good“ fastness to light and wet (dry) cleaning. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or netwo

27、rking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-3.3.7 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be cotton ticket No. 8, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198. 3.3.7.1. Color. The color requirements for the gimp shall be the same as specified in 3.3.6.2 for the thread. 3.3.7.2. Colorfastnes

28、s. The color gimp shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the color gimp shall show “good“ fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.8 Buttons. The buttons for the waistband shall be 27-line conforming to type II, class D

29、, style 4 of V-B-871 (see DoD Standard Shades for Buttons 1966). The color of the buttons shall be as follows: Class 1 - Blue, shade BV, cable No. 62003 Class 2 - White, shade BA, cable No. 62031 Class 3 - Black, shade BT, cable No. 62001 3.3.9 Slide fasteners. The slide fasteners shall conform to e

30、ither 3.3.9.1 or 3.3.9.2. 3.3.9.1. Metal. style 3, short tab pull, cam lock size LS (commercial size No. 4) of V-F-106, except that the salt spray test shall not be required. All the components of the slide fastener shall be brass and from the same supplier. synthetic or a combination. shall be 7 in

31、ches long for all sizes. The slide fasteners shall conform to type I, The tape shall be cotton or The length of the slide fastener 3.3.9.2. Plastic coil. The slide fastener shall be manufactured of polyester or nylon consisting of an automatic or cam lock and shall be equal to commercial size No. 2.

32、 blend of nylon and cotton or polyester and cotton or polyester. The length of the slide fastener shall be 7 inches long for all sizes. The tape shall be a 3.3.9.3. Color. The color of the slide fastener shall be as follows : Class 1 - Blue, shade AA, cable No. 66527 Class 2. - White Class 3 - Black

33、, shade G, cable No. 66507 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- _ _ nIL-saL-293ssc m 0b 2055498 418 m MIL-DTL-29394C (MC) 3.3.9.4. Colorfastness. The dyed slide fastener tape shall show colorfastness to laundering equal to or better tha

34、n the standard sample when tested as specified in V-F-106. When no standard sample is available, the tape shall show “good“ colorfastness when tested as specified in V-F-106. 3.3.10 Labels. 3.3.10.1.Combination label. Each skirt shall have a combination identification and instruction label conformin

35、g to type VI, classes 2 and 15 of DDD-L-20. The fastness to laundering requirements of DDD-L-20 shall apply. Skirt, womans Contract number: M67004-94-0-000 (Example) Name of contractor: DRY CLEAN ONLY 3.3.10.2.Size label. The size label shall conform to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20 except the stock

36、number is not required. The inscription on the size label shall conform to MIL-STD-984; Table II Height Ranges, Table III Body measurements for Marine Corps and Figure 2. 3.4. Desiqn. The skirts shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design shown in Figures 1 and 2, ankle length, with a one piece front, two

37、 piece back panels fully lined with slide fastener closure at the center back and a watch pocket on the right front at the waistband seam. 3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the contractor by the Government (see 6.3). The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall

38、 be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working patterns. The contractors working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns. Standard patterns show size, seam allowances, directional lines for cutting, and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of the compone

39、nt parts. allowance of 3 inches for hemming the bottom of skirt. The patterns provide an 3.5.1 Pattern parts. The skirts shall be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance with the pattern parts indicated below: 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted witho

40、ut license from IHS-,-,-BPL-DTh-2%3%4C 9999906 2055499 354 MIL-DTL-29394C (MC) IMaterial: Basic “- Front Back Il 2 2 PATTERNNOMENCLATURE Waistband-interlining Watch pocket (top ply) I NO. OF CUT PARTS 1 1 Front Back Waistband Placket Watch pocket (bottom ply) Material: Lining 3.6. Construction. The

41、skirts shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements as specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operation as listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the skirts. 3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitchinqs.

42、Stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. shall be specified in Table I. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch 3.6.1.1. Thread breaks and ends of seams. and stitching produced with 301 stitch type, when not caught in other seams or stitching,

43、shall be backstitched not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. stitches may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. 1/2 inch. be backstitched

44、 not less than three stitches. The ends of all seams Skipped The ends of a Thread ends of darts shall be trimmed to a length of When an automatic dart machine is used, the ends shall 3.6.2 Buttonhole. The buttonhole shall be eyelet end, taper bar type. The finished cut length of buttonhole shall be

45、3/4 inch. 3.6.3 Pressinq. Pressing as required in Table I shall be accomplished with a heated pressing iron.or machine. 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- flIL-DTL-29394C 9399913b 2QC55QO 9Tb = MIL-DTL-29394C (MC) 3.6.4 Shade markinq.

46、 The component parts shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the skirt. Any method of shade marking may be used except: a. Corrosive metal fastening devices. b. Sew-on shade tickets. c. Adhesive type tickets which show discoloration or leave traces of paper or adhesive mass to

47、the material upon removal of the - NO 1 - tickets. TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements. OPERATION :ut t ing . i. Cut the skirt in strict iccordance with patterns furnished by :he Government. 3. Cut all materials in the lirection indicated by directional Lines on pattern. The directional line shall b

48、e placed in the warp direction of the cloth unless Dtherwise indicated on the pattern. 2. Cut component parts of skirt from me piece of basic material, except placket, and watch pocket which may be cut from ends. d. Cut front and back lining parts of the skirt from one piece of lining material. e. C

49、ut braid for skirt hanger in lengths of 4 & 1/8 inches. Each skirt shall be provided with two hangers. f. Cut hem tapes not less than 108 inches long (see operation 23). g. Cut waistband interlining of polyester and cotton twill material (see 3.3.3) in accordance with pattern to reinforce the underside of the waistband. STCH TYPE SEAM/ STCH TYPE TCH/IN NDL BOB / LPR 9 Provided by IHSNot for