NAVY MIL-DTL-29396 B-1997 JACKET WOMAN-S - SPECIAL FULL DRESS SCARLET U S MARINE BAND MUSICIAN《美国舰队专用礼服深红色夹克》.pdf

1、MIL-DTL-293968 W 9999906 2063255 5TT MIL-DTL-2 93968 (MC) 8 October 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-J-29396A(MC) 23 June 1995 DETAIL SPECIFICATION JACKET, WOMANS - SPECIAL FULL DRESS SCARLET, U.S. MARINE BAND, MUSICIAN This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is

2、available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for women musicians scarlet wool special dress jackets. 1.2. Classification. The jacket will be of one type in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2): I Ben

3、eficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426)

4、 appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29396B D 9999906 2061256 Y36 MIL-DTL-2939

5、6B (MC) Schedule of sizes Short Reqular Lonq 2 2 4 4 4 6 6 6 8 8 8 10 10 10 12 12 12 14 14 14 16 16 16 18 18 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sect

6、ions of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whethe

7、r or not they are listed. 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the i

8、ssue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50 18 6 - A-A-50 19 6 - A-A- 50 198 - A-A-5 O 19 9 - A-A- 52 O 7 1 - A-A- 52 O 94 Cloth, Cotton, Buckram Thread, Silk Thread, Gimp,

9、 Cotton, Buttonhole Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) Thread, Cotton 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-2939bB 0b 2061257 372 MIL-DTL-2939

10、6B (MC) A-A-52 1 O 6 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage Polyester Blend (General Use) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-DTL-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-P-15064 - Pad

11、s, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head MIL-C-21115 - Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester and Rayon MIL-C-41820 - Cloth, Gabardine, Polyester and Rayon MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles MIL-DTL-82114 - Coat Front - For Coats, Musician STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams a

12、nd Stitchings (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094. ) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of t

13、his document to the extent specified herein. otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cite

14、d in the solicitation (see 6.2). Unless ANSI/ASQC 21.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Applications for copies should be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036. ) Department of Defense (DoD) Official Standardized

15、 Shades Standard Color Card of for Sewing Threads 1968 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-2939bB m 999990b 20bL258 209 m 4 MIL-DTL-2 9396B (MC) (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United

16、States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927. ) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulatio

17、ns unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First

18、 article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, wool, tropical, scarlet, shade 2502 (see 6.3), 10.5 ounce conforming to type I, class 1 of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.2 C

19、ollar, cuff and shoulder strap material. The material for the collar, shoulder strap and cuffs shall be cloth, polyester/wool blend, black, shade 2607 (see 6.3), conforming to type III, class 1 of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.3 Lininq. The material for lining the body and collar, and for making the front facing

20、 eyelet cover and jacket hanger shall be cloth, rayon twill, scarlet, shade 2506 (see 6.3), conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3.1. Bias bindinq. The binding of the underarm shield shall be bias cut out of the lining material specified in 3.3.3. binding shall be cut 5/8 to 7/8 inches wide and s

21、hall have sized edges. The 3.3.4 Pipinq. The material for piping shall be cloth, gabardine, polyester and rayon, white, shade 3042 (see 6.3), conforming to type I of MIL-C-41820, cut 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide for 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from

22、IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-2939bB W 99999Ob 2063259 145 MIL-DTL-2 9396B (MC) piping the lower collar edge and ornamental sleeve cuff and 1 inch wide for piping the front and bottom edges of jacket. 3.3.4.1. Vinyl pipinq. The white vinyl cord for piping the upper edge of the collar shall be tubular, with 7/16 i

23、nch wide welt and serrated edge. 3.3.5 Cloth, twill or plain weave, polyester or polyester blend. The stays for armhole and shoulder seams, the collar interlining and the binding for the neck edge of the front interlining shall be cut from cloth, twill or plain weave, polyester or polyester blend, c

24、onforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. The cloth shall be black, shade 2607. The requirements for nonfibrous material and seam efficiency shall not apply. 3.3.6 Front interlininq. The interlining for the fronts and side front shall be fusible cloth conforming to type V, class 2 of MIL-C-44296. 3.3.7 Col

25、lar interlininq. The material for interlining the collar shall be cloth, cotton, buckram, double texture, natural color, conforming to type I of A-A-50186. 3.3.7.1. Plastic. The plastic strip used in the collar interlining shall be clear plastic pattern stock 0.20 inch thick. It shall be cut using t

26、he cotton buckram pattern. 3.3.8 Jacket fronts. The jacket fronts shall conform to class 3 of MIL-DTL-82114. 3.3.9 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to the requirements of type I, class 2 of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.10 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to type IV of MIL-P-150

27、64. 3.3.11 Stay tape. The stay tape for the armholes and waist seam shall be cotton, 1/4 inch wide, conforming to type II, class 1 of A-A-52071, except the requirement for nonfibrous material shall not apply. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from

28、 IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-293966 M 9999906 20bL2b0 9b MIL-DTL-29396B (MC) 3.3.12 Thread. 3.3.12.1.Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196 as follows, except the requirements for extractable matter shall not apply: Use Type Ticket No. Ply _ Bartacks and all outside seaming Machine felling. Mak

29、ing buttonholes in jacket. Hand felling; and hand sewing. and stitching. I A 3 1 O 3 I B and F 3 III C 2 3.3.12.2.Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform to A-A-52094 as follows: Use Type Ticket No. Ply All inside seaming and stitching. Serging and overedge stitching. Machine tacking armholes

30、 and sewing on buttons. III A I 70 I 40 3 2 3 The thread for basting shall be good commercial grade cotton. an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester core, cotton or polyester covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 50, 2-ply or ticket No. 70, 2-ply may be used. As 3.3.12.3.Color and

31、 colorfastness. All thread shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040 (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968), except: the silk thread for stitching collar, cuffs and braid, which shall be black; the cotton thread for basting and machine tacking armhole,

32、 which may be white; and the cotton thread for overedge stitching the piping at the bottom edge of jacket shall be white. The colored threads shall show the following colorfastness when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification: Thread Color Wet (dry) cleaninq Liqht Cotton Scarlet S

33、ilk Scarlet Silk Black Good Fair Good Fair Good 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-2939bB W b 2b12bl 8T3 = MIL-DTL-29396B (MC) 3.3.13 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to

34、 type I or II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040 and shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.14 Buttons. 3.3.14.1.Insiqnia buttons. The insignia buttons shall be metal, gold plated, 27-line for shoulder straps, sleeves and 40-line for front clo

35、sure conforming to type I, style 3, class A, subclass 1 Of MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.14.2.Rinq toqqles. Ring toggles for securing buttons to fronts and sleeves shall conform to MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.15 Collar closure hook and eye. the collar shall be brass, black, japanned finished or black chemical finish, fol

36、lowed by a clear lacquer coating and conform to the requirements of Figure 4. The hook and eye for closing 3.3.16 Labels. Each jacket shall have a combination instruction/ identification label and a size label as follows. The jacket is intended to be dry cleaned and the labels shall show fastness to

37、 dry cleaning. 3.3.16.1.Combination identification/instruction label. The combination identification/instruction label instruction shall conform to type VI, classes 1 and 10 (combined), of DDD-L-20 except all printing and the space between the lines of printing shall be minimum 10 point (approximate

38、ly 1/8 inch). The content and format shall be as follows: Collar size: Nomenclature: (item.description) Contract number: Name of contractor: Wool Products Act information: 3.3.16.2.Size label. The size label shall conform to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The label shall consist of the numerical size

39、 designation specified in 1.2 followed by the letter S, R, or L, for Short, Regular and Long, as shown by the following example : 14R 7 . Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-293966 I 9999906 20bL2b2 73T PATTERN NOMENCLATURE MIL-DT

40、L-29396B (MC) NO. OF CUT PARTS 3.4. Desian. The jacket shall be U.S. Marine Corps design shown on Figures 1 and 2, a formfitting, fully-lined jacket with two-piece front, four-piece back, sleeve cuffs, shoulder straps with buttons, a standup collar with hooks and eyes for front closure and seven gol

41、d insignia buttons on the right front. The ends and bottom edge of collar, front and bottom edges of jacket, the top edge of sleeve cuffs and edges of shoulder straps shall be piped with material. The top edge of the collar shall be piped with white vinyl cord. Center front Side front Side back Cent

42、er back Top sleeve Under sleeve Front facing, right Front facing, left Underarm shield 3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working p

43、atterns. patterns shall be identical to the standard pattern. The standard pattern shall provide 3/4 inch allowance for side seams, 5/8 inch allowance for center back seam and 3/8 inch allowance for all other seams except as otherwise specified in Table I. Standard patterns show size and are marked

44、and notched for proper cutting, placement and assembly of component parts. The contractors working 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 2 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The jackets shall be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance with the pattern parts indicated below: Collar outerply Sleeve cuff Sleeve cuff

45、 eyelet facing (top ply) Sleeve cuff eyelet facing (under Shoulder straps PlY 1 ITEM 1 2 2 2 2 10 11 12 13 14 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-2939bB m 90b 20b32b3 b7b m PATTERN NOMENCLATURE 20 NO. OF CUT PARTS 23 24 25 26 Fr

46、ont Side back Center back Top sleeve Under sleeve Collar lining Front facing eyelet cover Shoulder eyelet cover I 27 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 2 I 28 Collar interlining 3.6. 1 MIL-DTL-2 93 9 6B (MC) Collar interlining 1 Material: Cloth interlining (fusible) I Center front Side front 2 2 Shaper Bottom shaper Con

47、struction. 3.6.1 Manufacturinq requirements. The jackets shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of the operations as listed in Table I, but all operations spec

48、ified shall be used to manufacture the jackets. 3.6.1.1. Stitches, seams and stitchinus. The stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. The number of stitches per inch as specified in Table I indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. All overedge s

49、titching and serging shall be done on serging machines with knife attachment properly set to trim the raveled edge without cutting the material. 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-2939bB S 999990b 20bL2b4 502 I MIL-DTL-29396B (MC) I l 3.6.1.2. Thread breaks and ends of seams. The ends of all seams and s