NAVY MIL-DTL-29397 B-1997 JACKET WOMAN-S - FULL DRESS SCARLET U S MARINE BAND MUSICIAN《美国舰队礼服深红夹克》.pdf

1、MIL-DTL-293978 m 9999906 2085LLb 334 1111 MIL-DTL-29397B(MC) 8 October 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-J-29397A(MC) 23 June 1995 DETAIL SPECIFICATION JACKET, WOMANS - FULL DRESS SCARLET, U.S. MARINE BAND, MUSICIAN This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is avail

2、able for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for women musicians scarlet wool full dress jackets. 1.2. Classification. The jacket will be of one type in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2): Beneficial co

3、mments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing

4、 at the end of this document or by letter. I AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29397B D 9999906 2085117 270 O Short 2 4 r b 8 10

5、 12 14 16 MIL-DTL-29397B (MC) Schedule of sizes Reqular 2 4 r b 8 10 12 14 16 18 Lonq 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 2, APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sectio

6、ns of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether

7、or not they are listed. 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the iss

8、ue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2 ) . SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50186 - A-A-5 O19 6 - A-A-5 O 19 8 - A-A-5 O 199 - A-A- 52 07 1 - A-A- 52 O 94 - Cloth, Cotton, Buckram Thread, Silk Thread, Gimp,

9、Cotton, Buttonhole Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) Thread, Cotton 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29397B II iU6 2085LLB LO7 M MIL -DT

10、L- 2 9 3 9 7 B (MC ) A-A-52 1 O 6 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage Polyester Blend (General Use) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-DTL-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-

11、P-15064 - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head MIL-C-21115 - Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester and Rayon MIL-C-41820 - Cloth, Gabardine, Polyester and Rayon MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles MIL-DTL-82114 - Coat Front - For Coats, Musician STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stit

12、ches, Seams and Stitchings (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form

13、 a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of

14、 the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). ANSI/ASQC 21.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Applications for copies should be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036. ) Department of Defense (DoD) Standard

15、Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29397B W 9999906 2085119 043 1111 MIL -DTL - 2 9 3 9 7 B (MC ) (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Assoc

16、iation of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927. ) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicab

17、le laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification sha

18、ll govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, wool, tropical, scarlet, shade 2502 (see 6.3), 10.5 ounce conforming to type I, class 1 of

19、 MIL-C-21115. 3.3.2 Collar, cuff and shoulder strap material. The material for the collar and cuffs shall be cloth, polyester/wool blend, black, shade 2607 (see 6.3), conforming to type III, class 1 of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.3 Lininq. The material for lining the jacket and collar, and for making the front

20、 facing eyelet cover and jacket hanger shall be cloth, rayon twill, scarlet, shade 2506 (see 6.3), conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3.1. Bias bindinq. The binding of the underarm shield shall be bias cut out of the lining material specified in 3.3.3. The binding shall be cut 5/8 to 7/8 inches

21、 wide and shall have sized edges. 3.3.4 Pipinq. The material for piping shall be cloth, gabardine, polyester and rayon, white, shade 3042 (see 6.3) , conforming to type I of MIL-C-41820, cut 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide for 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without licen

22、se from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29397B E 9999906 208532Cl 865 W piping the lower collar edge and ornamental sleeve cuff and 1 inch wide for piping the front and bottom edges of jacket. 3.3.4.1. Vinyl pipinq. The white vinyl cord for piping the upper edge of the collar shall be tubular, with 7/16 inch wide w

23、elt and serrated edge. 3.3.5 Cloth, twill or plain weave, polyester or polyester blend. The stays for armhole and shoulder seams, the collar interlining and the binding for the neck edge of the front interlining shall be cut from cloth, twill or plain weave, polyester or polyester blend, conforming

24、to class 1 of A-A-52106. The cloth shall be black, shade 2607. The requirements for nonfibrous material and seam efficiency shall not apply. 3.3.6 Front interlining. The interlining for the fronts and side front shall be fusible cloth conforming to type V, class 2 of MIL-C-44296. 3.3.7 Collar interl

25、inins. The material for interlining the collar shall be cloth, cotton, buckram, natural color, conforming to type I of A-A-50186. 3.3.7.1. Plastic. The plastic strip used in the collar interlining shall be clear plastic pattern stock 0.20 inch thick. It shall be cut using the cotton buckram pattern.

26、 3.3.8 Jacket fronts. The jacket fronts shall conform to class 3 Of MIL-DTL-82114. 3.3.9 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to the requirements of type I, class 2 of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.10 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to type IV of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.11 Stay tape. The

27、stay tape for the armholes and waist seam shall be cotton, 1/4 inch wide, conforming to type II, class 1 of A-A-52071, except the requirement for nonfibrous material shall not apply. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-29397B 0

28、 999990b 2085121 7Tl W 3.3.12 Thread. 3.3.12.1.Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196 as follows, except the requirements for extractable matter shall not apply: Use Type Ticket No. Ply Bartacks and all outside seaming I A 3 Machine felling. I O 3 Making buttonholes in jacket. I B a

29、nd F 3 Hand felling; and hand sewing. III C 2 and stitching. 3.3.12.2.Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform to A-A-52094 as follows: Use Type Ticket No. Ply All inside seaming and stitching. III A 3 Serging and overedge stitching. I 70 2 Machine tacking armholes and I 40 3 sewing on buttons

30、. The thread for basting shall be good commercial grade cotton. As an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester core, cotton or polyester covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 50, 2-ply or ticket No. 70, 2-ply may be used. 3.3.12.3.Color and colorfastness. All thread shall be scarlet,

31、 shade W, cable No. 66040 (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968), except: the silk thread for stitching collar, cuffs and braid, which shall be black; the cotton thread for basting and machine tacking armhole, which may be white; and the cotton thread f

32、or overedge stitching the piping at the bottom edge of jacket shall be white. The colored threads shall show the following colorfastness when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification: Thread Color Wet (dry) cleanins Liqht Cotton Scarlet Silk Scarlet Silk Black Good Fair Good - Fair

33、 Good 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29397B 9999906 2085322 b38 3.3.13 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be

34、scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040 and shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.14 Ornamental braid. The ornamental braid for the front of the jacket shall be mohair, black, tubular, 3/8 k 1/16 inch wide conforming to the following: Weight per gross yards, ounce 35 minimum Picks per inch T

35、otal carriers Ends per carriers Breaking strength, pounds Shrinkage: - length, percent - width Colorfastness to: - wet (dry) cleaning - light 3.3.15 Buttons. 3.3.15.1.Insiqnia buttons. 9 minimum 16 minimum 6 minimum 105 minimum 2.0 maximum Not less than the original width Good Good The insignia butt

36、ons shall be metal, gold plated, 27-line and 40-line conforming to type I, style 3, class A, subclass 1 of MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.15.2.Rins toqsles. Ring toggles for securing buttons to fronts and sleeves shall conform to MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.16 Collar closure hook and eye. The hook and eye for closing the

37、collar shall be brass, black, japanned finished or black chemical finish, followed by a clear lacquer coating and conform to the requirements of Figure 7. 3.3.17 Labels. Each jacket shall have a combination instruction/ identification label and a size label as follows. The jacket is intended to be d

38、ry cleaned and the labels shall show fastness to dry cleaning. 3.3.17.1.Combination personal-clothing identification label. The combination personal-clothing identification label shall conform 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL

39、-29397B W 999990b 2085123 574 MIL - DTL - 2 9 3 9 7 B ( MC ) to type VI, classes 1 and 10 (combined), of DDD-L-20 except all printing and the space between the lines of printing shall be minimum 10 point (approximately 1/8 inch). The content and format shall be as follows: Name : Service number: Col

40、lar size: Nomenclature: (item description) Contract number: Name of contractor: Wool Products Act information: 3.3.17.2.Size label. The size label shall conform to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The label shall consist of the numerical size designation specified in 1.2 followed by the letter S, R, or

41、 L, for Short, Regular and Long, as shown by the following example : 14R 3.4. Desisn. The jacket shall be U.S. Marine Corps design shown on Figures 1 and 2, a formfitting, single-breasted fully-lined jacket with ten gold plated insignia buttons on the right front and five on the left front, having f

42、ronts with black braid, a four-piece back, ornamental sleeve cuffs with gold plated insignia buttons, a standup collar with hooks and eyes for front closure and metal eyelets, and two cloth loops on each shoulder for attaching epaulets. The fronts and bottom edges of the collar, the front and bottom

43、 edges of jacket, and the top edge of the ornamental sleeve cuff shall be piped with white cloth. The top edge of the collar shall be piped with white vinyl cord. 3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any

44、 way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working patterns. The contractors working patterns shall be identical to the standard pattern. The standard pattern shall provide 3/4 inch allowance for side seams, 5/8 inch allowance for center back seam and 3/8 inch allowance for a

45、ll other seams except as otherwise specified in Table I. Standard patterns show size and are marked and notched for proper cutting, placement and assembly of component parts. 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-DTL-27377B IB 999990

46、6 2085324 400 CI PATTERN NOMENCLATURE MIL-DTL- 2 9 3 9 7 B (MC ) NO. OF CUT PARTS 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The jackets shall be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance with the pattern parts indicated below: Collar outer ply Sleeve cuff Sleeve cuff eyelet facing (top ply) Sleeve cu

47、ff eyelet facing (under PlY 1 ITEM 1 2 2 2 10 11 12 13 Front Side back Center back Top sleeve Under sleeve Collar lining Collar eyelet cover Front facing eyelet cover 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 2 2 2 2 2 1 2 1 22 Collar interlining 23 1 24 25 Center front Side front 26 2 2 27 Center front Side front Si

48、de back Center back Top sleeve Under sleeve Front facing, right Front facing, left Underarm shield Material: Cloth, polyester/wool black Material: Cloth, cotton buckram Collar interlining I 1 Sleeve cuff and eyelet marker Shaper Bottom shaper 3.6. Construction. 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo repr

49、oduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29377B a 9999906 2085325 347 S MIL-DTL-2 93 97B (MC ) 3.6.1 Manufacturinq requirements. The jackets shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of the operations as listed in Table I, but al