NAVY MIL-DTL-29478 A-1997 COAT WOMAN-S - FULL DRESS SCARLET U S MARINE BAND MUSICIAN MATERNITY《美国舰队音乐家深红女士礼服外套》.pdf

1、 7 MIL-DTL-2947A W 999990b 20b0344 708 INCH-POUND MIL-DTL-29478A(MC) 16 October 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-29478 (MC) 13 July 1995 DETAIL SPECIFICATION COAT, WOMANS - FULL DRESS, SCARLET, U.S. MARINE BAND, MUSICIAN, MATERNITY This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the

2、 Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers the requirements for womens maternity musicians scarlet wool full dress coats. 1.2. Classification. following sizes, as specified (see 6.2). The coats will be

3、of one type in the Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement P

4、roposal .(DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- - MIL-DTL-29478A 9999906

5、2060345 644 m. 8 MIL-DTL-29478A (MC) Schedule of sizes Extra Small Small Medium Large Extra Large 2 4-6 8-10 12-14 .16-18 1.3. Individual orders. When the coat is custom tailored to an individual order, this specification will govern, except that the detail requirements of Section 3, Table I may be

6、modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practices. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommend

7、ed for additional information or as examples. every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. While 2.2. Governme

8、nt documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specification

9、s and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Unless otherwise . - SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50186 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven A-A-50196 - Thread, Silk A-A-50198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyest

10、er A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton 2 Covered (Unbleached, Bleached or Dyed) Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-29478A H 9999906 2060346 580 W MIL-DTL-2947 8A (MC) A-A-52106 - Cloth,

11、Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage Polyester Blend (General Use) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-368 - MIL-DTL-3461 - MIL-P-15064 - MIL-E-20652 - MIL-C-21115 - MIL-C-41820 - MIL-C-44296 - MIL-DTL-82114 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon Bu

12、tton, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head Eyelets, Metallic and Eyelet Washers (General Specification for) Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool Cloth, Gabardine, Polyester and Rayon Cloth, Fusible Coat Fronts - For Coats, Musicians STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile

13、, Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.3. Non-Government publication

14、s. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not liste

15、d in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). ANSI/ASQC 21.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection By Attributes (Application for copies should be addressed to the American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036. ) Depar

16、tment of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- - i-. . ., 1 inch wide for the bottom and front edges of coat, and the seam joining the skirt to the

17、 center back. Continued. 12 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-2947A W 0b 20b035b 42T MIL-DTL-29478A (MC) 3 4 TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements - Continued. OPERAT ION :uttinq. (contd) . Punch the reinforcement discs for utton

18、s secured to the skirt back ieam from cloth, cotton, buckram. he reinforcement discs shall have a ./8 inch diameter hole at the center. Leplacement of damased Darts. i. Replace at time of cutting any Dart containing holes; seriously ieakening defects such as smashes, nultiple floats, loose or weaken

19、ing Slubs; shade bars and dye streaks; or msightly slubs, etc., affecting Ippearance. 3. Replace any part damaged during the manufacturing process by needle =hews which may be expected to ievelop into holes; scissors or knife xts; tears; holes; mends; or burns in the material, affecting appearance.

20、Shade markinq. a. Mark or ticket all component parts (see 3.6.2) cut from one piece of the basic material. Mark or ticket all components parts from one piece of rayon lining material and the pairs of sleeve linings when cut from ends. b. fastening devices is prohibited on the rayon lining. Make shou

21、lder loops. Finished appearance. The finished loops shall be uniform in width and shall finish 5/8 5 1/8 inches wide. a. Fold the strap for the loops in half lengthwise and seam together 1/4 inch from raw edges. b. Press the seam open, smooth, and flat with a heated pressing iron. The use of tickets

22、 with any metal STCH TYPE 301 SEAM/ STCH TYPE SSa-1 TCH/IN 10-14 NDL A BOB/ L PR A 13 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-99Ob 2060357 3bb - - MIL-DTL-29478A - _ NO 4 5 6 7 MIL-DTL-29478A (MC) STCH OPERATION TYPE Make shoulder loops. (con

23、td) c. Turn the strap right side out, with seam line placed in center on the underside, and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron. Make coat hanaer and linina securinq straps. Finished appearance. The coat hanger and lining securing straps shall finish 1/4 to 3/8 inch wide. a. Fold the 1

24、-1/8 inch wide strip of 301 lining material in half lengthwise. Turn the edges to the inside and seam 1/16 inch from the turned edges. b. inches long. c. Cut the lining securing straps 4-1/2 2 1/4 inches long. Make collar evelet covers. Finished appearance. The collar eyelet covers shall finish 1-3/

25、4 2 1/8 inches wide. a. Turn under the side edges of the 301 collar eyelet covers and stitch 1/8 inch from the folded edges, catching the turned under portions in the stitching. b. Fold each cover in half across 301 the width and seam 1/16 inch from the folded side edges. Hake front eV elet cover. C

26、ut the coat hanger 3-3/4 2 1/4 a. Fold front eyelet cover in half 301 lengthwise and stitch across the bottom edge with a 1/4 inch sea. TABLE I. Manufacturinu rmuk eaients - Continued. I I b. Turn the cover right side out. Press and crease the folded edge smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron.

27、 CEAM/ STCH TYPE 14 Em-1 EFa-1 (each side edge 1 SSa-1 SSa-1 STCH/IN 10-14 10-14 10-14 10-14 NDL A BOB / LPR A A c A A Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29478A 0b 20b0358 2T2 D MIL-DTL-2 94 7 8A (MC) TABLE I. Manufacturinq requi

28、rements - Continued. OPEAT I ON ake underarm shields. inished appearance. The underarm hields shall finish smooth and flat lithout puckers, pleats, gathers, or Ither distortions. Bind the rounded edge of shield rith bias binding, turning under the utside edge of the binding only, and :atching 1/16 i

29、nch from the folded :dge . ). Press the shields smooth and flat rith a heated pressing iron or xessing machine. lake cuffs and eyelet openinq. pinished appearance. The cuffs shall )e uniform in appearance, shall iinish smooth and flat, without :wists, gathers, pleats, puckers, or ther distortions. T

30、he cuffs shall iinish 5 inches high at the point on :op sleeve and 3 inches high at the lackarm, including piping. The iping shall be evenly worked out and shall extend uniformly 1/8 inch Deyond the seamed edges of the sleeve :uf f , P. The cuffs shall be made of one ly of the material specified in

31、3.3.2, piped with the material 3pecified in 3.3.4. D. Position one ply of the cuff ?yelet facing on the outside of sleeve cuff, face to face, with the ack edges even and notches matching. Join the two plies together from iotch to notch with 3/8 inch seam. J. Extend the depth of the notches to the se

32、am line. Turn back the acing and top stitch the facing to the cuff 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the raised edge. 3. Mark location for three eyelets on each cuff for removable buttons. e. Make a 1/8 inch eyelet on each 01 the marks through both plies. STCH TYPE 301 301 301 Eyelet SEAM/ STCH TYPE BSb-1 LSq-2

33、 ia) LSq-3 b) ICH/ IN 10-14 10-14 10-14 22 pel: eyelet NDL A A A A BOB / LPR A A A A 15 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NO 9 - 10 MIL-DTL-29478A 999990b 20b0359 539 MIL-DTL-2 947 8A (MC) TABLE I. Manufacturina reauirements - Continued

34、. OPERATION Make cuffs and evelet openinas. (cont d) f. Position the cuff on the facing with back edges even, notches matching, and with the right side faced up. Stitch the ends of the opening through the facing 1/4 inch from back raw edges. g. Position the strip of piping material on the outside of

35、 sleeve cuff and stitch together 1/8 inch from the upper curved and pointed edge of cuff. h. Turn back the cuff and piping, working the folded edge of the piping 1/8 inch beyond edge of cuff. Top stitch the cuff to the piping 3/16 inch from folded edge of piping. i. Press the cuffs smooth and flat w

36、ith a heated pressing iron or pressing machine. Seam sleeves at forearm. Finished appearance. The foreann seam shall finish smooth and flat without twists, gathers, puckers, or pleats and shall start and finish evenly. a. Position the top sleeve with upper forearm edge in line with the notch in the

37、armhole edge of the under sleeve and with the notches in the lower forearm edge of top and under sleeve matching. Seam top and under sleeve together 3/8 inch frm forearm edge of top sleeve, fonuing a tapered outlet on the under sleeve. b. flat with a heated pressing iron. Spread open the seara and p

38、rpss STCH TYPE _ 301 301 301 301 16 SEAM/ STCH TYPE SSa-1 (each end) BSm- 1 (a) SSa-1 SSbd-1 to SSa-1 ITCH/I# 10-14 10-14 10-14 10-14 NDL A A (silk) A (silk) A BOB/ LPR A A (silk) A (silk) A Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29q

39、7A m 9999906 2060360 950 m NO MIL-DTL-2 947 8A (MC) TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements - Continued. OPERAT ION IJoin cuffs to sleeves. Finished appearance. The cuff shall be uniformly stitched to the sleeve without twists, gathers, puckers or raw edges. In the finished coat (after pressing), the po

40、int of the cuff shall be centered between the 11 12 .ower forearm edge and the backarm ;em of sleeve. I. Mark the sleeves in accordance rith the sleeve cuff marker for )ositioning of the cuffs, with notch )n the cuff marker, matching the lorearm seam line and bottom edge of narker in line with the b

41、ottom raw ?dge of sleeve. . Position the piped edge of cuff it the mark and stitch cuff to sleeve ilong the piped edge. The line of stitching shall be adjacent to the stitching of the cuff piped edge. 2. Lift the cuff up and stitch the Dottom edge of sleeves to the eyelet facing 1/4 to 3/8 inch from

42、 the bottom raw edge. cl. Trim excess facing even with the bottom edge of sleeve. Seam sleeves at backarm. Finished appearance. The backarm seam shall finish smooth and ilat without distortions, and shall start and finish evenly. a. Join the top and under sleeves together at the backarm with a 3/8 i

43、nch seam, catching the ends of the cuff in the seam, leaving an opening on the cuff between notches. b. Spread open the sleeve and cuff seams and press smooth and flat with a heated pressing iron. STCH TYPE 301 301 301 SEAM/ STCH TYPE LSa-1 SSa-1 SSa-1 KH/IN 10-14 10-14 10-14 NDL A (silk) A A (silk)

44、 BOB/ LPR A silk) A A (silk) 17 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- NO 13 - 14 15 TABLE _. Position the center back and side )anels with edges even and join :ogether with a 3/8 inch seam from shoulder edge to top of piping and :onthue th

45、e 3/4 inch seam as xovided by the pattern. The edges )f the seam shall be overedged and Iressed toward the side. Join the fronts and back. “nished appearance. The seis shall inish smooth and flat without pleats )r gathers. The seams shall start nnd finish evenly. a. The fronts and back assemblies sh

46、all be joined together at the side seams with a 3/4 inch seam from the armhole to bottom of hem. b. Overedge the side seams separately. Seam reinforcement stay to shoulder and armhole. Finished appearance. The reinforcement stays shall be sewn to the armhole and shoulder edge of the front without ga

47、thers, puckers, or pleats. The top end of the armhole stay and lower end of the shoulder stay shall form a right angle at the armhole without the stays overlappinne edge even with top, front and Jottom edges of coat. Stitch piping LO coat 1/8 inch from edge. The ?iping shall extend from the collar n

48、otch to the top, along the left and right front and the bottom edge of the coat. 3. Turn the piping to the inside dorking out the folded edge of piping 1/8 inch beyond edges of coat. Topstitch coat to the piping 3/16 inch from the folded edge of piping, catching the turned under portion of the pipin

49、g in the stitching. c. Notch out the excess piping material at the top and bottom front corners to eliminate bulkiness. Trim the inner edge of piping on the right front only from the upper front down to approximately 1 to 1-1/2 inches below the waist seam, so that the piping will not interfere with front buttonholes. d. Overedge stitch the raw