NAVY MIL-DTL-32019-1998 BOAT CLOAK - MENS- DRESS (OFFICER-S)《男士宽大外衣(官员的)》.pdf

1、MIL-DTL-32 O1 9 (MC) 13 Januarv 1998 DETAIL S PECI FI CATI ON BOAT CLOAK - MENS DRESS (OFFICERS) This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This speci

2、fication covers the requirements for a dark blue boat cloak. 1.2. Classification. The cloak will be one type of the following sizes as specified (see 6.2). Schedule of Sizes Small Medium Larqe Extra Larqe 34-36 38-40 42-44 46-48 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any per

3、tinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 84

4、05 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-320L9 9999906 20611878 592 W MIL-DTL-32019 (MC) 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in

5、 this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users ar

6、e cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. While 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of

7、 this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FE DERAL A-A-

8、5 O 18 6 A-A-5 O1 96 A-A-5 O1 98 A-A-52 O 94 A-A-52106 A-A- 5 5 18 7 V-B-811 DDD-L-20 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven - Thread, Silk - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole - Thread, Cotton - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and - Braid, Textile (Flat) - Button, Sewing Hole and Button Staple -

9、 Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage Polyester Blend (Plastic) (General Use) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill Rayon MIL-C-29405 - Cloth, Broadcloth: Wool and Wool/Nylon STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, an

10、d Stitchings 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-320L9 W 99999Ob 20bl1879 429 D MIL-DTL-32 O1 9 (MC) (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Standardizati

11、onDocument Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094. ) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those list

12、ed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966 Department of Defense (DoD) Standard

13、 Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968 (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927.) ANSI/ASQC 21.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Application

14、 for copies should be addressed to the American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036. ) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this

15、 document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the samp

16、le, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-32019 999990b 2

17、061880 140 MIL-DTL-32019 (MC) 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, broadcloth, wool, 14 oz, dark blue, shade 2307, conforming to type I of MIL-C-29405. 3.3.2 Lininq. broadcloth, wool, 14 oz, scarlet, shade 2501, conforming to type The material for lining the cloak

18、 shall be cloth, I of MIL-C-29405. 3.3.3 Interlininq. The material for lining the collar and pocket stays shall be cloth, stain, rayon, scarlet, shade 2504, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.4 Collar. good commercial grade of black velvet cloth. The outer ply of the collar shall be made from a

19、 3.3.5 Pocketinq. The material for pocketing shall be cloth, twill, polyester and cotton, conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. The color shall be black. 3.3.6 Braid. The braid for trimming the front edges and bottom of the cloak sha1,l be 2x2 plain weave, flat, mohair and nylon, 1/2 inch wide, confor

20、ming to type II, class 1 of A-A-55187. The color shall be black. 3.3.7 Buttons. The four buttons for the front closure shall be melamine, formaldehyde composition, glossy finish, conforming to type II, class D, style 29, 30 line. The color shall be black. 3.3.8 Buckram. The buckram for interlining t

21、he collar shall conform to type IV of A-A-50186 with a weight of 21-23 oz per square yard. 3.3.9 Interlininq. The collar interlining shall be cloth, polyester and cotton, conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. 3.3.10 Hook and eye. shall be brass, black japanned finish or black chemical finish coated wi

22、th a clear lacquer coating and conform to the requirements of Figure 1. The hook and eye for closing the collar 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-32019 99999Ob 20b1881 087 MIL-DTL-32019 (MC) 3.3.11 Asraffe cord. Each boat clo

23、ak shall have a black agraffe cord consisting of a double cord with three knots, two sliders, and two frogs (see Figure 2). 3.3.12 Thread. 3.3.12.1.Cotton thread. The thread for all inside seaming and stitching shall be mercerized finish, ticket No. A, 3-ply, conforming to A-A-52094. 3.3.12.2.Silk t

24、hread. The thread for machine sewing all outside seaming and stitching shall be ticket No. A, with ticket No. B, and ticket No. F for buttonhole, needle and looper threads, respectively, conforming to A-A-50196. The thread for hand sewing shall be type III, ticket No. C, 2-ply, conforming to A-A-501

25、96. 3.3.13 Color and colorfastness. All thread for outside stitching shall be black, shade AA, cable No. 66043. The thread for inside stitching shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040 (see DoD Standard Color Card of Sewing Threads 1968). The threads shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning.

26、 3.3.14 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198. The color shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040, and show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.15 Labels. Each cloak shall have a combination instruction/ identif

27、ication label and a size label as follows. The cloak is intended to be wet (dry) cleaned and the labels shall show good fastness to this cleaning process. 3.3.15.1.Combination personal-clothinq identification label. The combination label shall conform to type IV, classes 1 and 3 of DDD-L-20 with pri

28、nting to be a minimum 10 point (approximately 1/8 inch). The content and format shall be as follows: Nomenclature: Name of contractor: Wool Products Act information: DRY CLEAN ONLY 3.3.15.2.Size label. The size label shall conform to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The label shall consist of the numer

29、ical Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-320L9 9999906 20bL882 TL3 Left (black) Right (black) Under collar (black) Collar stand (black) Lining, left (scarlet) Lining, right (scarlet) MIL-DTL-32019 (MC) 1 1 1 1 1 1 size designation

30、 specified in 1.2 followed by the letter S, M, L, or EL, for Small, Medium, Large, and Extra Large, as shown by the following example: Collar stand (scarlet) Buttonhole/front fly (black and scarlet) 35 s 1 1 each 3.4. Desiqn. The boat cloak shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design shown on Figures 3 th

31、rough 5, a four button front closure fly with hook and eye collar closure, one inside pocket with the front edges and bottom trimmed with braid and an agraffe cord with frogs across the upper front. Breast pocket Under collar interlining Front interlining 3.5. Patterns. The standard patterns furnish

32、ed by the Government shall not be changed in any manner and shall be used as a guide in cutting the contractors working patterns. The standard patterns provide a 1/2 inch allowance for center back seam and a 1/4 inch allowance for front and collar edges. size, are marked for placement and cutting, a

33、nd are notched for proper assembly of component parts. The patterns show 2 1 2 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The cloak shall be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance with pattern parts indicated below: 9 10 11 I PATTERN NOMENCLATURE I NO. OF CUT PARTS 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo

34、 reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-r ITEM MIL-DTL-320L9 W 99999Ob 20bL883 95T PATTERN NOMENCLATURE I NO. OF CUT PARTS I * 12 MIL-DTL-32019 (MC) Material: Cloth, buckram Collar stand 1 13 14 15 Collar, top ply 1 Marker Buttonhole Shaper Under collar IMaterial: Cloth, v

35、elvet 3.6. Construction. The cloaks shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of the operations as listed, but all operations specified will be used to manufacture

36、 the cloaks. 3.6.1 Stitches, seams and stitchinq. The stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. The number of stitches per inch as specified in Table I indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. All overedge stitching shall be done on serging machin

37、es with a knife attachment properly set to trim the raw edge without cutting the material. 3.6.1.1. Tackinq and back stitchinq. Ends of seams and stitching produced with 301 type stitch, when not caught in other seams or stitchings shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all stitc

38、h types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. 3.6.2 Shade markinq. The component parts of the cloaks cut from one piece of basic and lining material shall be shade marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. method of shade marking may be used

39、 except: Any a. Corrosive metal fastening devices. b. Sew-on shade tickets. c. Adhesive type tickets where adhesive mass adheres to the material upon removal of the tickets. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- NO MIL-DTL-320L9 9999906

40、20bL84 876 MIL-DTL-32 O 19 (MC) TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements. OPERAT I ON Cut t inq. a. Cut all materials in the direction indicated by the directional lines on the patterns, which is the warp direction. b. Cut all wool parts from one piece of basic material. c. Cut the collar stand lining fr

41、om one piece of rayon lining material. d. Cut the collar stand interlining from one piece of polyester/cotton twill material. e. Cut the collar stand interlining from one piece of buckram material. Replacement of damased parts. a. Replace at time of cutting any part containing damages, such as holes

42、 or seriously weakening defects, such as smashes, multiple floats, and slubs likely to develop into holes. b. Replace all parts damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chews which may be expected to develop into a hole, scissor or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends or burns. Shade markinq. a

43、. Mark all component parts cut from one piece of basic and lining fabrics to ensure uniform shade and size throughout the cloak. STCH TYPE SEAM/ STCH TYPE STCH/Ib NDL BOB / LPR 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NO 4 NIL-DTL-32019 W 99

44、99906 2063885 722 MIL-DTL-32 O1 9 (MC) TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements - Continued. OPERATION lake collar stand (see Fisure 6). finished appearance. The polyester/ :Otton material shall finish on the Lining side of the collar stand. The :ollar stand shall be smooth and flat ind shall be uniforml

45、y stitched qithout twists, gathers, puckers or lests. P. The collar stand shall be made rom one ply each of basic material, ?olyester/cotton and buckram and rayon lining. 3. Position the polyester/cotton on the collar stand interlining with the sdges even. Seam the two plies 1/8 to 3/16 inch from to

46、p and bottom sdges and each end. z. Lap the lower edge of polyester/ :Otton side of stand approximately 1/2 inch on lower inside edge of stand outer ply. The outer ply shall axtend not less than 1 inch beyond the ends of the interlining. Seam interlining to outer ply 1/4 inch from lower edge of inte

47、rlining. d. Fold lower edge of outer ply smoothly over the lower edge of interlining. Seam the interlining to outer ply 1/4 inch from upper edge of interlining. e. Trim upper edge of stand outer ply to within 1/2 inch from upper edge of stand interlining. f. Smoothly fold the ends of the outer ply o

48、ver the ends of the interlining; turn under lower edge sufficiently so as not to be visible in the finished stand. Tack the raw end and lower folded end of the outez ply to the turned-under position of the outer ply and polyester/cotton with overcast stitching. STCH TYPE 301 301 301 Hand SEAM/ STCH

49、TYPE SSa-1 LSa-1 SSbd-1 TCH/IN 10-14 10-14 10-14 2-3 NDL A :cotton 1 A cotton 1 A (cottor 1 C (silk) BOB/ LPR A cot ton 1 A :cotton 1 A 1 (cotton . 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NC MIL-DTL-32019 (MC) TABLE I. Manufacturins requirements - Continued. OPE RAT I ON Make collar. Finished appearance. The collar sha