NAVY MIL-DTL-82112 C-1997 ORNAMENTATION - FOR UNIFORM WOMAN-S EVENING DRESS OFFICER-S《女士夜礼服装饰品》.pdf

1、= Ob 2042357 582 = 9 I INCH-FOUND I MIL-DTL-82 112C (MC) 29 July 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-0-82 11 2B (MC) 14 December 1993 DETAIL SPECIFICATION ORNAMENTATION - FOR UNIFORM, WOMANS, EVENING DRESS, OFFICERS This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is availab

2、le for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for ornamentation components for the womens evening dress jacket. 1.2. Classification. The ornamentation will be of the following types and classes as specified (see 6

3、.2). Type I ornamentation will be furnished in pairs, right and left. Unless otherwise specified, the background material (edges) will be unfinished. Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed

4、to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8455 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlim

5、ited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-m 9999906 2042358 439 m MIL-DTL-8 2 11ZC (MC) Type I - Sleeve ornamentation Class 1 - Company Grade Class 2 - Field Grade Class 3 - General Officer Type II - Collar ornamentation 2. APPLICABLE DOC

6、UMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. every effort has been made to ensure the

7、completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. While 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specificati

8、ons, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). U

9、nless otherwise SPEC I FICAT I ONS FEDERAL A-A-5 O 18 6 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven A-A-5 O 19 6 - Thread, Silk DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use) V-T-295 - Thread, Nylon DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-3 68 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-DTL-3

10、461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-E-17568 - Embroidery Materials, Metallic and Synthetic Metallic MIL-C-21115 - Cloth, Tropical, Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-DTL-82122 - Jacket, Womans - Evening Dress (Officers) 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted with

11、out license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL- 8 2 112C (MC ) STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19

12、111-5094.) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified

13、, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Unless ANSI/ASQC 21.4- Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Application for copies should be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 11 West

14、 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036) Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968. (Copies may be obtained from the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927. ) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of

15、 a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. Nothing in this document, 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. First article. When specified (

16、see 6.21, a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.2. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without lic

17、ense from IHS-,-,-E 06 2042Lb0 037 * MIL- DTL- 8 2 11 2C (MC ) from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Backqround material. The background material for type I ornamentation shall be cloth, tropical, polyester/wool, Marine

18、Corps black, shade 2607 (see 6.3), 8.5 to 9.5 ounce, conforming to type III of MIL-C-21115. ornamentation shall be cloth, wool, tropical, Marine Corps scarlet, shade 2502 (see 6.3), 10.5 ounce conforming to type I, class 1 of MIL-C-21115. Background material for the type II 3.3.2 Embroidery material

19、s. The synthetic gold embroidery materials used in fabrication of ornamentation items shall conform to type III, classes 8 or 11 of MIL-E-17568. 3.3.2.1. Synthetic sold border. scarlet silk embroidery on the sleeve ornamentation shall be fabricated from two plies of synthetic yarn listing in 3.3.2,

20、twisted together in a right hand twist having 14 to 16 twists per inch. The border used to outline the 3.3.3 Thread. 3.3.3.1. Embroidery thread. shall be best quality pure silk conforming to type I, 00, 3-ply of A-A-50196. cable No. 66040. The silk thread for the embroidery ticket No. The color shal

21、l be scarlet, shade W, 3.3.3.2. Sewinq thread. synthetic gold shall be type I, ticket No. A, 3-ply of A-A-50196. The color shall be gold, shade TX, cable No. 66087, or mercerized nylon thread of equal strength and matching color may be used when ornamentation is required to be finished. for edge sti

22、tching shall conform to type I, class A, size AA, 2 or 3-ply of V-T-295. The color shall be black, shade AA, cable No. 66043 (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). The silk thread for stitching the The nylon thread 3.3.3.3. Colorfastness. The colored t

23、hreads, when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification, shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning and light equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license f

24、rom IHS-,-,-m 999990b 2042161 TO3 MIL-DTL-82112C(MC) b colored thread shall show good fastness to wet cleaning and light. 3.3.4 Backinq and underlay for embroidery. 3.3.4.1. Crinoline. Backing for the scarlet silk embroidery shall be cotton crinoline, black, 2.8 ounce per square yard, having a threa

25、d count of approximately 44 per inch in the warp direction and 35 per inch in the filling direction, and a breaking strength (grab) of approximately 54 pounds in the warp direction and 25 pounds in the filling direction. 3.3.4.2. Underlay. gold embroidery shall be of the type used in best commercial

26、 practice. Underlay for the scarlet silk embroidery thread shall have a scarlet color on the upper surface to closely match the shade of the thread. Underlay materials shall be flexible so as to not crack when bent. Underlay for the scarlet silk and synthetic 3.3.5 Buttons, and button toqqles. Sleev

27、e ornamentation shall be provided with three metal, gold plated, Marine Corps insignia buttons, 27 line, regular shank, conforming to type I, style 3, class A, subclass 1 of MIL-DTL-3461. Buttons shall be secured to the ornamentation with ring fasteners conforming to MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.6 Lininq. The

28、material for lining the sleeve ornamentation shall be cloth, twill, rayon, black, shade 2604, 3.7 ounce conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.7 Interlininq. The material for interlining the sleeve ornamentation shall be cloth, buckram, cotton, 3.5 to 5 ounce, conforming to type III of A-A-50186. 3

29、.4. Desiqn. The embroidery design and the design of the finished ornamentation shall be as shown on Figures 1 through 4 and shall conform to the approved samples. 3.5. Patterns. The standard patterns for the collar and sleeve patch shall be furnished by the Government and shall not be altered in any

30、 manner and shall be used only as a guide for cutting working patterns. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-W 9999906 2042362 94T W MIL-DTL-82 112C (MC) PATTERN NOMENCLATURE I NO. OF CUT FARTS 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The sleeve pat

31、ch shall be cut from the specified material in accordance with the pattern part indicated: Collar Sleeve patch I ITEM 1 2 Sleeve patch t- 2 E Sleeve patch 16 2 Finished sleeve patch and button marker 3.6. Construction. 1 3.6.1 Manufacturinq Requirements. The ornamentation shall be constructed of mat

32、erials specified herein and shall include details shown on applicable figures and as specified herein. contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as specified herein, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the ornamentation. The Finished collar shaper 3.

33、6.1.1. Tackinq. not less than 1/4 inch. Ends of stitching shall be securely backtacked 1 3.6.1.2. Identification markinq. shall be marked for type and class (see 1.2). Labels shall conform to types IV or V, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The collar and sleeve patches 3.6.1.3. Cuttinq. Cut the collar and sleev

34、e ornamentation patches with patterns furnished by the Government. material in the direction indicated by directional lines on the patterns. Cut the 3.6.2 Collar ornamentation. The embroidery shall have sufficient underlay to produce a well raised and rounded effect. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleN

35、o reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-W 9999906 2042363 88b W MIL-DTL-82112C (MC) The embroidered stitches shall be tightly and closely drawn so as to produce a clear, sharp, straight edge outline of the required design, with the corners sharp and distinct. The density

36、of the stitches shall be such as to provide full coverage of the underlay material (see Figure 4). 3.6.3 Sleeve ornamentation. Sleeve ornamentation of each class shall consist of a single line of scarlet silk embroidery outlined with one continuous length of synthetic gold border along the top, fron

37、t, and bottom edges; class 1 has clover leaf design centered and classes 2 and 3 have gold oak leaf and acorn design along inside of embroidered edges as shown in Figures 1, 2 and 3. Dimensions of finished sleeve ornamentation shall be 5-1/2 inches at top edge, 3 inches at front edge, and 5 inches a

38、t bottom edge, measured as shown in Figures 1, 2, and 3. 3.6.3.1. Silk embroidery and synthetic sold border. The scarlet silk embroidery shall be made through the crinoline backing. Silk embroidery shall have sufficient underlay to produce a well raised and rounded effect. The embroidery stitches sh

39、all be tightly and closely drawn so as to produce a clear, sharp, straight edge outline of the required design, with the corners sharp and distinct. The density of the stitches shall be such as to provide full coverage of the underlay material, which shall have the scarlet surface next to the stitch

40、ing. The border shall be securely stitched on with no less than 10 stitches per inch. Stitching shall be through the crinoline backing. The stitched on border shall be straight and even, without twisting, curling, or other distortion, and shall be made as close as possible to both sides and ends of

41、the silk embroidery. Ends of the border shall start and finish at one of the inside corners of the silk embroidery and shall be securely stitched down. Sleeve patches shall be constructed as specified in MIL-DTL-82122. The finished width of the silk embroidery shall be 1/8 inch, and the finished wid

42、th of the embroidery including the border shall be 1/4 inch. Ends of the embroidery shall be on an angle as shown on Figures 1 through 3. The front end of the sleeve ornamentation shall be slanted back from the top to bottom as shown on Figures 1, 2, and 3 to conform to shape of bottom end of sleeve

43、s of jacket. 3.6.3.2. Interior desiqns. The interior designs shall have sufficient underlay to produce a well raised and rounded effect, and the design for each class shall conform to Figures 1, 2, and 3. The embroidered stitches shall be tightly and closely drawn, and of sufficient number and densi

44、ty to produce the required 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82112C (MC) design and to provide full coverage of the underlay material. Acorns shall be positioned as shown in Figures 1 and 2. The number of leaves and acorns on

45、class 2 and class 3 ornamentation shall be as follows: Class 2 Class 3 Leaves Acorns Leaves Acorns TOP Bottom 5 5 6 7 6 7 3 4 3.7. Workmanship. The finished coats shall conform to the quality and grade of product established by this specification. 3.8. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally prefera

46、ble materials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs. 4. VERIFICATION 4.1. Classifica

47、tion of inspection. specified herein are classified as follows: The inspection requirements a. First article inspection (see 4.3). b. Conformance inspection (see 4.4). 4.2. Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with the provisions set for

48、th in ANSI/ASQC 21.4. 4.3. First article inspection. inspection shall be made of a completely fabricated ornamentation for all provisions of this specification. When first article is required, 4.4. Conformance inspection. 4.4.1 Testinq of components. Testing of components shall be in accordance with

49、 the applicable subsidiary specifications and standards to the extent applicable, except that this specification shall govern in the event of conflict. of testing will be as specified in FED-STD-191, where applicable. The method 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-9999906 20V2Lb5 h59 . Components Crinoline Underlay MIL-DTL- 8 2 112C (MC ) Reqmt . Tes