NAVY MIL-DTL-82121 C-1997 CUMMERBUND WOMAN-S - EVENING AND MESS DRESS (OFFICER-S)《女士夜礼服装饰带(官员的)》.pdf

1、flIL-DTL-82323C = 9999906 2055306 790 I INCH-POUND 1 MIL-DTL-82121C (MC) 16 October 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-82121B (MC) 23 May ,1994 DETAIL SPECIFICATION CUMMERBUND, WOMANS - EVENING AND MESS DRESS (OFFICERS) This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is

2、available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for a scarlet wool cummerbund. 1.2. Classification. The cummerbunds will be of one type and size with elastic strap adjustment. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. Gen

3、eral. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completen

4、ess of this Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal

5、 (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- - MIL-DTL-82323C m 99%Ob 2055307

6、b27 m MIL-DTL-8212 1C (MC) list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specificati

7、ons, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). U

8、nless otherwise SPEC I FI CAT IONS FEDERAL A-A-50196 - Thread, Silk A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton CCC-C-426 - Cloth, Cotton, Drill DDD-L-2 O - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-368 MIL-C-21115 - Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool - Cloth, Satin, Ra

9、yon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Buildin

10、g 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094. ) 2.3. Non-Government publications. a part of this document to the extent specified herein. otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the

11、 issues of The following document(s) form Unless 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-82121C m 999990b 2055308 563 m MIL-DTL-82121C (MC) documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitatio

12、n (see 6.2). ANSI/ASQC 21.4- Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Application for copies should be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036) 2.4. Order of precedence. text of this document and the references cited herein,

13、 the text of this document takes precedence. however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. In the event of a conflict between the Nothing in this document, 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance an

14、d information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials 3.3.1 Clot

15、h, wool, tropical. The material for the front of the cummerbund shall be cloth, wool, tropical 10.5 ounce, scarlet, shade 2502, conforming to type I, class 1 of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.2 Cloth, rayon, satin. The material for lining the cummerbund shall be cloth, satin, rayon, scarlet shade 2504 (see 6-31,

16、4.5 ounce conforming to class 3 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3 Elastic webbinq. The elastic webbing shall be made of rayon yarn of suitable grade and denier to meet the requirements specified below, and natural or synthetic rubber strands of a suitable gage to meet the requirements specified below. webbing sha

17、ll be composed of two ground warps (one face and one back), one elastic warp, and one filling so as to produce a right twill effect on the face and back of the fabric. The elastic strands shall weave in such a manner as to be over all the back The Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or netw

18、orking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- fiIL-DTL-BZLZLC 9999906 2055309 4TT c MIL-DTL- 8 2 12 1C (MC) picks and under all the face picks. conform to the following: The finished webbing shall Width (inches) 1-1/8 2 1/16 Weight per linear yd (ounces) 0.96 minimum Total warp 170 minimum Elastic

19、strands 22 minimum Picks per inch 56 minimum The color of the webbing shall be black, showing good fastness to laundering, wet (dry) cleaning, crocking and perspiration. 3.3.4 Cloth, cotton, drill. The cummerbund shall be interlined with cloth, cotton drill 7.5 ounce/square yard, unbleached, conform

20、ing to type I, class 2 of CCC-C-426. 3.3.5 Thread 3.3.5.1. Silk thread. ticket No. C, 2-ply, conforming to type III of A-A-50196. The thread for hand sewing shall be silk, 3.3.5.2. Cotton thread. be cotton, mercerized finish, ticket No. A, 3-ply, conforming to type III of A-A-52094. grade. Thread fo

21、r seaming and stitching shall Basting thread shall be a good commercial 3.3.5.3. Color and colorfastness. shall show good fastness to light when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification. The cotton and silk thread 3.3.6 Hardware. bronze, nickel plated, and shall conform to the desi

22、gn and dimensions shown on Figure 2. The buckle and slides shall be made of brass or 3.3.7 Label. Each cummerbund shall be provided with an identification label, conforming to type VI, class 1 of DDD-L-20. The label shall measure not less than 2-1/2 by 1-1/2 inches. The content and format shall be a

23、s follows: Nomenclature: (item description) Contract number: Name of contractor: Wool Products Act information DRY CLEAN ONLY 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82 12 1C (MC) I I NOTE: Size of characters for “Name of contractor

24、“ shall be minimum 6 point (approximately 1/16 inch). PATTERN NOMENCLATURE The label shall show fastness to laundry and wet (dry) cleaning. 3.4. Desiqn. The cummerbund shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design shown on Figure 1, having three horizontal pleats, left and right side extensions with the fro

25、nt interlined, two piece lined back, with elastic straps at each end, a clasp type metal buckle at the turned ends of the elastic straps, and metal adjusting slides on each elastic webbing strap. NO. OF CUT PARTS 3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the contractor by the Government.

26、 The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working patterns. The contractors working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns. The standard patterns provide a 1/4 inch allowance for front and interlining seams, and

27、 3/8 inch allowance for front and lining seams, unless otherwise specified in Table I. Standard patterns shall show seam allowances and directional lines for cutting, and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of the component parts. Front Side front 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The

28、 cummerbund shall be cut from the specified materials in accordance with the number of pattern parts indicated: 1 2 F- Front lining Extension piece 1 l2 1 1 I I 4 I 5 3.6. Construction. The cummerbunds shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations and stitch, seam and stitching 5 Provided

29、by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-4 MIL-DTL- 8 2 12 1C (MC) 1 . types specified in Table I. follow the exact sequence of operations as listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the cummerbunds. 3.6.1 Stitches,

30、seams and stitchinq. The stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. Table I indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. The contractor is not required to The number of stitches per inch as specified in Cuttinq. a. Cut cummerbund in strict accordance w

31、ith patterns furnished. b. indicated by the directional lines on the patterns. c. Cut rayon lining parts from one piece of rayon satin material. d. Cut two pieces of 1-1/8 inches wide elastic 15 inches and 8 inches long. e. The use of drill holes is prohibited. Cut all materials in the direction 3.6

32、.1.1. Tackinq and backstitchinq. Ends of seams and stitching produced with 301 type stitch, when not caught in other seams or stitchings, shall be securely backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch. 3.6.1.2.

33、 Shade markinq. shall be shade marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. except: The rayon lining parts of the cummerbund Any method of shade marking may be used a. Corrosive metal fastening devices. b. Sew-on shade tickets. c. traces of paper or adhesive mass to the material

34、 upon removal of the tickets. Adhesive type tickets which show discoloration or leave TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements. No I OPERAT I ON STCH I TYPE SEAM/ STCH TYPE STCH/IE NDL BOB/ LPR 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NO 3TCH/IN

35、2 3 4 5 MIL-DTL-82121C (MC) TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements - Continued. OPERAT I ON Leplacement of damased parts. i. Replace at time of cutting any kart containing damages, such as hole: Ir seriously weakening defects, such is smashes, multiple floats, and slubi .ikely to develop into holes. 1.

36、 Replace any part damaged during th mufacturing process by needle chews rhich may be expected to develop into L hole, scissor or knife cuts, tears, ioles, mends or burns. lhade markinq. i. Mark or ticket (see 3.6.1.2) all iatin lining parts to insure proper issembly and a uniform shade :hroughout cu

37、mmerbund. ). Adhesive tickets, when used shall e adhered to the inside of the :ummerbund. c. The use of metal fastening devise is prohibited on the rayon lining. Sew on identification label. Finished appearance. The label shall be properly positioned and sewn to th back of cummerbund. a. Position id

38、entification label on the back lining midway between each end and with top edge of label one inch from the top edge of the lining. Sew label to back lining with a sing1 row of stitches 1/16 inch from each edge. Make center front. Finished appearance. All pleats and joining seams shall finish smooth

39、and flat without distortions. The seams shall finish with outside folded edge towards the top of the front piece. a. The front shall be made of one pl of wool material. b. Fold front lengthwise, inside out in accordance with notches on patterns, forming pleats. Stitch eac pleat from end to end with

40、a continuous row of stitches, 3/8 inch from folded edge. STCH TYPE 301 301 SEAM/ STCH TYPE SSa-1 OSf-1 10-14 6-10 NDL A A BOB/ LPR A A 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- HIL-DTL-821ZLC D 999990b 2055113 920 NO F OPERATION MIL-DTL-8212

41、1C (MC) 5 6 7 8 TABLE I. Manufacturins requirements - Continued. Make center front. (contd) c. Press front with the outside folded edge of each pleat towards the top of the finished cummerbund. Join side fronts. Finished appearance. The side fronti shall finish smooth and flat without distortion. a.

42、 Join left and right side front smooth and flat without distortion. Interline front. a. The interlining shall be made of single ply of cotton drill material. b. Position interlining on the insic of the front with edges even and seam 1/8 inch from the raw edges. Assemble cummerbund. Finished appearan

43、ce. The assembled cummerbund shall be uniform in appearance and finish smooth and flat Seams shall be without puckers, pleats, or distortions. The cummerbund shall finish 3-1/2 1/4 inches wide. a. Seam the left lining piece to the front 1/4 inch from the top and bottc edges, leaving the left end ope

44、n and turning the right edge in at the notches. b. piece to the front 1/4 inch from the top and bottom edges leaving the righ end open. c. Slip the 15 inch length of elasti through the right end opening into th enclosed assembly with the edges eveE Turn the top and bottom seams of the front assembly

45、 onto the lining and against the elastic. Stitch across the end with 1/4 inch seam, closing the right end and catching the elasti in the stitching. d. Slip the 8 inch length of elastic through the left end opening and repeat operation (c) . Seam the right extension lining STCH TYPE 301 301 301 301 3

46、01 301 SEAM/ STCH TYPE SSa-1 SSa-1 SSa-1 SSa-1 SSa-1 SSa-1 STCH/Il 10-14 10-14 10-14 10-14 10-14 10-14 NDL A A A A A A BOB/ LPR A A A A A A 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NO 9 10 11 MIL-DTL-8212 IC (MC) e. Trim corners and raw edge

47、s of seams for proper turning. f. Turn cummerbund to outside position through the opening of the right side lining, forcing out the seamed edges and baste the edges to hold the desired shape. g. Turn under the end of the 8 inch elastic 1/4 to 3/8 inch and stitch to the body of the elastic 1/8 inch f

48、rom the folded edge catching the turned under portion in the stitching. Clean cummerbund. a. Remove basting threads, trim all ends of stitchings and remove all loose threads from cummerbund. b. Remove all spots, shade tickets, markers and stains from the cummerbum without injury to the material. Pre

49、ss cummerbund. Finished appearance. Pressing shall be done on a heated pressing iron or pressing machine of a type suitable tl obtain the desired appearance in accordance with good manufacturing practice without damage to the hooks. a. Press the entire cummerbund, removing all wrinkles, impressions, gloss marks and creases. b. Finish press. Attach hardware to buckle stram. Finished appearance. The buckle ani- ad