NAVY MIL-DTL-82125 B-1997 CAPE WOMAN-S - EVENING DRESS (OFFICER-S)《女士夜礼服(官员的)》.pdf

1、 MIL-DTL-82L25B m 9999906 2059674 405 m I INCH-POUND I MIL-DTL-82 125B (MC) 16 October 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-82125A (MC) 27 July 1995 DETAIL SPECIFICATION CAPE, WOMANS - EVENING DRESS (OFFICERS) This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available fo

2、r use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for a womans evening dress cape. 1.2. Classification. following sizes (see 6.2). The cape will be of one type in the Schedule of sizes Small Medium Large Beneficial comment

3、s (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at t

4、he end of this document or by letter. FSC 8410 AMSC N/A DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82125B 9999906 2059675 341 MIL-DTL-82125B(MC) 1.3. Indiv

5、idual orders. .When cape is custom tailored to an individual order, this specification will govern, except the detail requirements of Table I may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practice. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are spe

6、cified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they

7、 must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. While 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the

8、 extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2) . SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50196 - Thread, Silk

9、A-A-52071 - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton A-A-52105 - Cloth, Interlining, Cotton or Synthetic Warp, DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, and Spun Hair-Wool or Rayon Filling (General Use) * DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL

10、-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-DTL-3461- Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-C-21115 - Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-82125B m 9999906 2059676 288 m

11、. MIL-DTL-82125B (MC) STAN DARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D,

12、 Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation.

13、 Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). ANSI/ASQC 21.4- Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Application for copies should be addressed to The American National Standard

14、s Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036) Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968 (Application for copies should be addressed to The Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927).

15、 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIRE

16、MENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-821258 90b 2059677 114 . MIL-DTL-82 125B (MC) from this spec

17、ification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, tropical, polyester/

18、wool blend, Marine Corps black, shade 2607 (see 6.4), 8.5 to 9.5 ounces, conforming to type III of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.2 Lininq. The material for lining the cape shall be cloth, satin, rayon; scarlet, shade 2504, 4.5 ounces, conforming to class 3 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3 Coat fronts and collar interlininq.

19、The material for the body of the coat front, collar, and collar stand shall be cloth, warp, spun hair-wool filling, plain weave, conforming to type II O A-A-52105. 3.3.4 Hanqer braid. The braid for cape hanger shall be cotton or rayon tubular flat braid 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide, and shall have a breaki

20、ng strength of not less than 75 pounds in the warp direction. The color shall be black and shall show good fastness to crocking and wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.5 Tape 1/4 inch. The tape for the front and arm slit edges of the cape shall be 1/4 inch wide, conforming to type II, class 1 of A-A-52071. 3.3.

21、6 Thread 3.3.6.1. Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196. I, ticket No. A for all outside seaming and stitching, inside seaming, and stitching for body lining. The thread for hand sewing shall be type III, ticket No. C, 2-ply. The thread for machine sewing shall conform to type 3.3.

22、6.2. Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform to A-A-52094, type III, mercerized finished, ticket No. A, 3-ply for all inside seaming and stitching except body lining; type II, glazed finish, ticket No. 16, 4-ply for sewing on buttons and 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or netwo

23、rking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-82125B m Ob 2059678 050 m MIL-DTL-82 12 5B (MC) snap fasteners. The thread for basting shall be a good commercial grade. 3.3.6.3. Color and colorfastness. The thread shall be black, except the silk thread for seaming and stitching the body lining

24、 shall be scarlet. The cotton thread for basting may be white. The colored threads shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning and, in addition, the silk thread shall show good fastness to light (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). 3.3.7 Insiqnia

25、button. The insignia button shall be metal, gold plated, officer design, 40-line, conforming to type I, style 4, class A, sub-class 1, short shank of MIL-DTL-3461. One insignia button per cape is required. 3.3.8 Labels. Each cape shall have an identification label and a size label conforming to DDD-

26、L-20 and the following. Colorfastness for dry cleaning shall apply. 3.3.8.1. Identification label. The identification label shall be type VI, class 1. The content and format shall be as follows: Nomenclature : (item description) Contract number: Name of contractor: Wool Products Act information NOTE

27、: Size of characters for “Name of contractor“ shall be minimum 8 point (approximately 3/32 inch). 3.3.8.2. Size label. The size label shall be type VI, class 2. The label shall consist of the cape size (see 2.1) indicated by letters S (Small), M (Medium), or L (Large), and the stock number, as shown

28、 in the following example: M Stock number The stock number may be omitted from the size label but when omitted, it shall be incorporated in the identification label. 3.3.9 Finishins tape. The tape for finishing the bottom of the cape shall be rayon woven tape with selvages. The tape shall be 5 Provi

29、ded by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NIL-DTL-82125B 9999906 2059b79 T97 * MIL-DTL-82125B (MC) . woven of first quality, continuous filament, rayon yarn and. the finished tape shall conform to the following requirements: Width (inches) 1/2 + 1/1

30、6 Weight per gross yd (ounces) 5.0 minimum Thread count, total ends 66 minimum Picks per inch 52 minimum Weave plain 3.3.9.1. Color and colorfastness. The tape shall be dyed a shade approximately the color of the basic material and showing good fastness to crocking and wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.10 Fas

31、teners, snap. The snap fasteners for the front edge of cape shall be brass, black, japanned finish, round style, rolled edge, size 15-line, sew-on type. 3.4. Desisn. The cape shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design shown on the attached figures; fully-lined cape, arm slits, snap fasteners on the front

32、s, one button, ornamentation piece at the fronts; having a two piece back with a center pleat and roll rounded collar. 3.5. Patterns. The standard patterns furnished by the Government shall not be altered in any manner and shall be used only as a guide for cutting working patterns. provide 3/16 inch

33、 allowance for seams at the top and front edges of cape and joining top collar to under collar, 1/4 inch allowance for collar and collar stand, 3/4 inch allowance for side seams, and 3/8 inch for all other seams. The patterns show size, seam allowance, directional lines for cutting, and are marked o

34、r notched for proper placement and assembly of component parts. The standard patterns 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. Capes shall be cut from the specified materials in accordance with the pattern parts indicated: 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license fr

35、om IHS-,-,-ITEM PATTERN NOMENCLATURE 10 11 NO. OF CUT PARTS 12 13 14 Front Back 15 2 2 MIL-DTL-82L25B m 9999706 2059680 709 m MIL-DTL-8 2 12 5B (MC ) Front Under collar Collar stand 2 1 1 Front Back Front facing Top collar Under collar Neck facing Ornamental right front Ornamental left front Collar

36、stand Ornamentation - Front marker - 3.6. Construction. 3.6.1 Manufacturinq requirements. The capes shall be manufactured in strict accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I. 3.6.1.1. Operations. The contractor is not required to follow the exact s

37、equence of operations as listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the cape. 3.6.1.2. Stitches, seams and stitchinq. The stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. The number of stitches per inch as specified in Table I indi

38、cates the minimum and maximum number permitted. 3.6.1.2.1 Tackinq and backstitchinq. Ends of seams and stitching, produced with 301 type stitch, when not caught in other seams or stitching (except ends of continuous line of stitching) shall be securely backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. Thread break

39、s (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-821258 0b 205b81 b45 D MIL-DTL-8 2 12 5B (MC) back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap

40、not less than 1/2 inch. 3.6.1.3. Shade markinq. The component parts of cape cut from one piece of basic and lining materials, shall be marked to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. The use of tickets with metal fastening devices is prohibited on rayon lining. Any method of shade

41、marking may be used except: a. Corrosive metal fastening devices. b. Sew-on shade tickets. e. Adhesive type tickets which show discoloration or leave traces of paper or adhesive mass to the material upon removal of the tickets. TABLE I. Manufacturins requirements. - NO 1 - OPERATION Cut t inq. a. Cu

42、t capes in strict accordance with patterns furnished by the Government. b. Cut all parts in the direction of warp as indicated by directional lines on pattern. The back part may be cut with the center edge on the selvage. c. Cut all wool parts from one piece of basic material including the right and

43、 left ornamentation piece. d. Cut the body lining from one piece of rayon lining material. The back part may be cut with the center edge on the selvage. e. Cut the interlining cloth for under collar and collar stand in accordance with pattern furnished. f. Cut coat fronts in strict accordance with p

44、attern furnished. g. The use of drill holes is prohibited. STCH TYPE SEAM/ STCH TYPE $TCH/IN NDL BOB/ L PR 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NO 2 - 3 4 MIL-DTL-82L25B 9999906 2059682 581 m MIL-DTL-8 2 12 5B (MC) TABLE I. Manufacturinq

45、 requirements - Continued. OPERATION leplacement of damaued parts. i. Replace at time of cutting any )art containing damages, such as ioles or seriously weakening defects, iuch as smashes, multiple floats, and rlubs likely to develop into holes. I, Replace any part damaged during :he manufacturing p

46、rocess by needle :hews which may be expected to ievelop into a hole, scissors or cnife cuts, tears, holes, mends or urns. Shade markinq. 2. Mark or ticket all component ?arts (see 3.6.1.3) cut from one ?iece of basic and lining materials to insure uniform shade and size throughout the cape. b. The u

47、se of tickets with metal fastening devices is prohibited on rayon lining. Make collar. Finished appearance. The edges of collar shall be neatly and completely worked out. The collar shall be uniform in appearance and the edges shall be smooth and flat, without twists, gathers, puckers, or raw edges

48、(top and sides). a. The collar and collar stand shall be made of two plies of basic material and one ply of interlining. b. Position the interlining to the under collar and quilt the interlining and under collar with a minimum of six rows of blind stitching. Trim excess interlining along edges, wher

49、e necessary. c. Seam interlining and under collai stand together, 1/8 inch from top an( lower edge. Trim excess interlining along edges, where necessary. STCH TYPE 103 301 SEAM/ STCH TYPE SSm-6 SSa-1 (each edge) ICH/IN 4-6 10-14 NDL BOB / LPR A 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82125B m Ob 205