NAVY MIL-DTL-82126 D-1997 SKIRTS WOMEN-S - EVENING DRESS《女士夜礼服裙子》.pdf

1、i 1. INCH-POUND I MIL-DTL-82126D (MC) 8 October 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-S-82126C(MC) 28 March 1994 DETAIL SPECIFICATION SKIRTS, WOMENS - EVENING DRESS This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Dep

2、artment of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers the requirements for black polyester/wool skirts. 1.2. Classification. The skirts will be of two types in the following sizes as specified (see 6.2): Type I - Skirt, Womens: Evening Dress, (Staff Noncommissioned Officers) (short) Typ

3、e II - Skirt, Womens: Evening Dress, (Officers) (long) Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the St

4、andardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from

5、 IHS-,-,-NIL-DTL-82LZbD 9999906 2055452 313 MIL-DTL-82126D (MC) Schedule. of sizes Short Reqular Lonq 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 1.3. Individual order. When skirts are custom tailored to an individual order, this specification will govern, except that detail requirements o

6、f Table I may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practice. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. every effor

7、t has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. The documents listed in this section are specified This section does not Whi

8、le 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index

9、of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Unless otherwise SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50 19 6 - Thread, Silk A-A-5 O 198 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole A-A-5 O 19 9 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered 2 Provided by IHS

10、Not for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-, flIL-DTL-ZL2bD W 999990b 2055453 25T MIL-DTL-82126D (MC) A-A- 52 O 94 - Thread, Cotton A-A-52 1 O 6 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, V-F-106 - Fastener,

11、 Slide, Interlocking DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) Polyester Blend (Plastic) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-B-371 - Braid, Textile, Tubular MIL-T-5237 - Tape, Textile; Webbing, Textile; Rayon MIL-C-21115 - Clot

12、h, Tropical, Wool: Polyester/Wool STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-STD-984 - Provisions for Size Labeling of Womens MIL-STD-1609 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Womens Uniform Clothing Skirts (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the, a

13、bove specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwi

14、se specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Department of Defense (Do

15、D) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968 Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons 1966 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- HIL-DTL-8212bD = 999990b 2055454 196 MIL-DTL-82 12 6D (MC)

16、(Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927.) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes prece

17、dence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specifi

18、cation may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic materials. The basic material shall be cloth, polyester/wool, blac

19、k, shade 2607 (see 6.3) conforming to type III, class 1 of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.2 Lininq. The material for lining the skirts shall be cloth, twill, rayon, black, shade 2604 (see 6.3), 3.7 ounces, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3 Finishins tape. back center vent and bottom of the skirt shall be

20、tape, textile, rayon conforming to type I of MIL-T-5237. The color shall be black. The tape for finishing the opening of the 3.3.4 Hanaer braid. rayon, tubular, flat braid, 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide, conforming to type IX, class 1 of MIL-B-371 and shall be black. The braid for the skirt hangers shall be

21、 3.3.5 Thread. 3.3.5.1. Silk thread. The silk thread for machine sewing shall conform to type I, ticket No. A, 3-ply of A-A-50196 for outside seaming and stitching and type III, ticket No. C, 2-ply of A-A-50196 for hand sewing. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted w

22、ithout license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-8212bD m 9999906 2055455 O22 m MIL-DTL-82126D (MC) 3.3.5.2. Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform to type III, mercerized finish, ticket No. A, 3-ply of A-A-52094 for all inside seaming and stitching. As an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester, co

23、tton- covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 70, 2-ply may be used. 3.3.5.3. Color and colorfastness. The silk and cotton thread shall be black, shade AA, cable No. 66043. The dyed thread shall show.fastness to light and wet (dry) cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. Whe

24、n no standard sample is available, the colored thread shall show iigood“ fastness to light and wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.6 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall be cotton, ticket No. 8, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198. The color shall be black. 3.3.7 Slide fasteners. 3.3.7.1. Sl

25、ide fasteners, metal. The slide fasteners shall conform to type I, style 3, short tab pull, cam lock size LS (commercial No. 4) of V-F-106, except that the salt spray test shall not be required. All the components of the slide fastener shall be brass and from the same supplier. shall be black, shade

26、 G, cable No. 66507. The tape shall be cotton or synthetic or a combination. fastener shall be 7 inches long for all sizes. The color of the tape The length of the slide 3.3.7.2. Plastic coil slide fasteners. The slide fasteners shall be manufactured of polyester or nylon consisting of an automatic

27、or cam lock and shall be equal to commercial size No. 2. The tape shall be a blend of nylon and cotton or polyester and cotton or polyester. The length of the slide fastener shall be 7 inches long for all sizes. 3.3.7.3. Colorfastness. The dyed slide fastener tape shall show colorfastness to launder

28、ing equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in V-F-106. When no standard sample is available, the tape shall show “good“ colorfastness when tested as specified in V-F-106. 3.3.8 Buttons. The buttons for the waistband shall be 27-line, conforming to type II, class D, styl

29、e 4 of V-B-871. The color 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82 12 6D (MC) shall be black, shade BT, cable No. 62001 (see DoD Standard Shades for Buttons 1966). 3.3.8.1. Automatic button sewinq. If an automatic machine which se

30、ws and shanks (wraps) the buttons in one operation is used, the thread shall be waxed. 3.3.9 Labels. 3.3.9.1. Label. Each skirt shall have an identification label conforming to type VI, class 1 and 2 of DDD-L-20. The skirts are intended to be dry cleaned and the label shall show fastness to dry clea

31、ning. The content and format shall be as follows: Nomenclature: (item description) Name of contractor: Wool Products Act information: 3.3.9.2. Size label. The size label shall conform to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20 except the stock number is not required. The inscription on the size label shall con

32、form to MIL-STD-984; Table II Height Ranges, Table III Body measurements for Marine Corps and Figure 2. 3.3.10 Waistband interlininq. shall be twill, polyester and cotton conforming to class 1, of A-A-52106. A fusible waistband interlining of suitable material may be substituted for the polyester an

33、d cotton twill. The waistband interlining material 3.4. Desisn. The skirt shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design shown in Figures 1 and 2, a gore style made with a three piece front, two piece back panels, fully lined, and an opening at the top of the center back with a slide fastener closure, and a

34、one piece set-on waistband with both ends to fasten with buttons and buttonholes at the back opening. back kick pleat and the hem shall shall be placed on the right side 3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns contractor by the Government (see The skirt shall have a center be pinked. A watch pocket at the

35、waistband seam. will be furnished to the 6.3). The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working patterns. The contractors working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns. Standard patterns show size, seam allowan

36、ces, directional lines for cutting, and are marked or notched for proper placement and 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-DTL-8212bD W 9999906 2055457 9T5 MIL-DTL-82 12 6D (MC) Material: Basic Center front 1 Side front 2 Back 2 Wa

37、istband 1 Placket 1 Watch pocket (bottom ply) 1 Material: Cloth, rayon lining assembly of the component parts. The patterns provide an allowance of 3 inches for hemming the bottom of skirt. Front lining (cut on fold) Back lining 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The skirts shall be cut from the materials

38、 specified herein in accordance with the pattern parts indicated below: 1 2 Waistband-interlining Watch pocket (top ply) i 1 1 I 4 L 9 10 3.6. Construction. The skirts shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements as specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow th

39、e exact sequence of operation as listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the skirts. 3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitchinqs. Stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. shall be specified in Table I. The minimum and maximum

40、 number of stitches per inch 3.6.1.1. Thread breaks and ends of seams. The ends of all seams and stitching produced with 301 stitch type, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be backstitched not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of

41、the break not less than 1/2 inch. stitches may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped The ends of a Thread ends of darts shall be trimmed to a length of 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permit

42、ted without license from IHS-,-,-_ - MIL-DTL-82L2bD 999990b 2055458 83% MIL-DTL-8 2 12 6D (MC) 1/2 inch. be backstitched not less than three stitches. When an automatic dart machine is used, the ends shall 3.6.2 Buttonhole. The buttonhole shall be eyelet end, taper bar type. The finished cut length

43、of buttonhole shall be 3/4 inch. 3.6.3 Pressinq. Pressing as required in Table I shall be accomplished with a heated pressing iron or machine. 3.6.4 Shade markinq. The component parts shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the skirt. Any method of shade marking may be used exc

44、ept: a. Corrosive metal fastening devices. b. Sew-on shade tickets. c. Adhesive type tickets which show discoloration or leave traces of paper or adhesive mass to the material upon removal of the tickets. TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements. - NO 1 - OPERATION Cut t inq . a. Cut the skirt in strict

45、accordance with patterns furnished by the Government. b. Cut all materials in the direction indicated by directional lines on pattern. The directional line shall be placed in the warp direction of the cloth unless otherwise indicated on the pattern c. Cut component parts of skirt from one piece of b

46、asic material, except placket, and watch pocket which may be cut from ends. d. Cut front and back lining parts of the skirt from one piece of lining material. e. Cut braid for skirt hangers in lengths of 4 f 1/8 inches. Each skirt shall be provided with two hangers. f. Cut hem tapes not less than 65

47、 inches long. 8 STCH TYPE SEAM/ STCH TYPE ;TCH/Il NDL BOB / LPR Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-8212bD II 9Ob 2055459 778 MIL-DTL-82126D (MC) NO TABLE I. Manufacturinq requirements - Continued. OPERATION 1 2 3 4 Cuttinq. (cont

48、d) g. Cut waistband interlining of polyester and cotton twill or fusible material (see 3.3.10) in accordance with pattern to reinforce the underside of the waistband. ReDlacement of damaaed Darts. a. Replace at time of cutting any part of the skirt containing holes or seriously weakening defects suc

49、h as smashes, multiple floats, loose weakening slubs, etc., expected to develop into holes, shade bars and dye streaks or unsightly slubs, etc. b. manufacturing process by needle chews which may develop into a hole, scissor or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends or burns in the material. Shade markinq. a. Mark, ticket or bundle all component parts (see 3.6.4 1 cut from o