NAVY MIL-DTL-82145 C-1997 COAT MAN-S - SPECIAL FULL DRESS SCARLET U S MARINE BAND MUSICIAN-S《美国舰队男士深红专用礼服外套》.pdf

1、 MIL-DTL-82145C 999990b 2059994 T4b = MIL-DTL-82145C (MC) 16 October 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-82145B (MC) 9 June 1995 DETAIL SPECIFICATION COAT, MANS - SPECIAL FULL DRESS, SCARLET, U.S. MARINE BAND, MUSICIANS This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is a

2、vailable for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for a musicians scarlet, wool, special full dress coat. 1.2. Classification. following sizes, as specified (see 6.2): The coat will be of one type in the Schedul

3、e of sizes (Short, Reqular, Lonq, Extra Lonq) 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 44 46 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22

4、134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. (DD AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permit

5、ted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-BZL45C 999990b 2059995 982 MIL-DTL-82 14 5C (MC) 1.3. Individual orders. When the coat is custom tailored to an individual order, this specification will govern, except that the detailed requirements of Section 3, Table I, may be modified to the extent neces

6、sary for good custom tailoring practice. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information

7、 or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifica

8、tions, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the-extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standa

9、rds (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2) . SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-5 O 18 6 A-A-5 O 19 6 A-A-50 1 98 A-A-50 19 9 A-A-52 O 7 1 A-A- 52 O 9 4 A-A-52 1 O 6 DDD-L-20 Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven Thread, Silk Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole Thread, Polyester Core

10、 Cotton or Polyester Covered Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached or Dyed) Thread, Cotton Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) a DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-368 -Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twi

11、ll Rayon MIL-DTL-3461 -Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NIL-DTL-82145C 9 999990b 205999b 819 MIL-DTL-8 2 14 5C (MC) MIL-P-15064 -Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head MIL-L-17507 -Lace, Ornamental MI

12、L-C-21115 -Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-C-29405 -Cloth, Broadcloth: Wool and Wool/Nylon MIL-C-41820 -Cloth, Gabardine, Polyester and Rayon MIL-DTL-82114 -Coat Front - For Coats, Musicians STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings (Unless otherwise indicated, copies

13、 of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094. ) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unle

14、ss otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). ANSI/ASQC

15、 21.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection By Attributes (Application for copies should be addressed to the American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036. ) ASTM E1282 - Standard Guide for Specifying the Chemical Compositions and Selecting Sampling Practic

16、es and Quantitative Analysis Methods for Metals and Alloys (Application for copies should be addressed to American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103.) Department of Defense Standardized (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Shades of Sewing Threads 1968 3 Pr

17、ovided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-82145C 06 2059997 755 MIL-DTL-82 14 5C (MC) (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927. ) 2.4. Or

18、der of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.

19、1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to f

20、irst article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, wool, tropical, scarlet, shade 2502 (see 6.3), 10.5 ounces, conforming to type I, class 1 of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.2 Collar, shoulder straps and cuff material. The material for the col

21、lar, shoulder straps and cuffs shall be cloth, polyester/wool blend, black, shade 2607 (see 6.3), conforming to type III, class 1 of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.3 Lininq. The material for lining the coat and collar, for making the coat hanger and straps to secure the lining to the bottom edge of coat and for t

22、he 5/8 to 7/8 inch wide bias binding for the underarm shield edge finish shall be cloth, rayon twill, scarlet, shade 2506 (see 6.3), conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.4 Cloth, twill or plain weave. The stays for the armhole and shoulder seams, the binding for the neck edge of the coat front in

23、terlining and the collar interlining shall be cut from cloth, twill or plain weave polyester, natural color, conforming to class 1. of A-A-52106. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-82145C 999990b 2059998 bL . MILDTL-82 14 5C (

24、MC) 3-3.5 Collar interlininq. The material for interlining the collar shall be cloth, cotton buckram, double texture, laminated, starch finish, natural color, conforming to type IV of A-A-50186. The weight of the laminated cloth shall be 21 to 23 ounces per square yard. 3.3.5.1. Plastic. The plastic

25、 strip used in the collar interlining shall be clear, plastic pattern stock, 0.020 inch thick. It shall be cut using the cotton buckram pattern. 3.3.6 Coat fronts. The coat fronts shall conform to class 1 of MIL-DTL-82114. 3.3.7 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to the requirements of t

26、ype I, class 2 of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.8 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to type IV of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.9 Stay tape. The stay tape for the armholes shall be cotton, unbleached, 1/4 inch wide, conforming to type II, class 1 of A-A-52071, except the requirement for non-fibrous materia

27、l shall not apply. 3.3.10 Pipinq. lower edge of collar, sleeve cuffs, front and bottom edges of the coat shall be cloth, gabardine, polyester and rayon, white, shade 3042 (see 6.3), conforming to type I, class 2 of MIL-C-41820. The material for piping the shoulder straps, 3.3.10.l.Vinyl pipinq. of t

28、he collar shall be tubular with 7/16 inch welt and serrated edges. The white vinyl piping for the upper edge 3.3.11 Collar tab. wool broadcloth, blue, shade 2307 (see 6.3), conforming to type I The material for collar tab shall be cloth, Of MIL-C-29405. 3.3.12 Thread. 3.3.12.1.Silk thread. The silk

29、thread shall conform to A-A-50196 except the requirement for extractable material shall not apply. The thread for machine sewing shall conform to type I, ticket No. A for bartacks and all outside seaming and stitching; ticket No. O for machine felling; and ticket NOS. B and F for buttonhole 5 Provid

30、ed by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82L45C m 9999906 2059999 528 m MIL-DTL-82145C (MC) needle and bobbin thread respectively. The thread for hand sewing shall conform to type III, class 3, ticket No. C, 2-ply. 3.3.12.2.Cotton thread. Th

31、e cotton thread shall conform to A-A-52094, type III, mercerized finish, ticket No. A, 3-ply for all inside seaming and stitching; type I, soft finish, ticket No. 70, 2-ply for serging and overedge stitching; type II, glazed finish, ticket No. 24, 4-ply for sewing on buttons and matching tacking arm

32、holes. The thread for tacking sleeve lining, hand tacking facing to interlining and basting shall be a good commercial grade. As an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester core, cotton or polyester covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 50, 2-ply or ticket No. 70, 2-ply may be used.

33、3.3.12.3.Color and colorfastness. The thread for the scarlet material shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040 (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968), and the thread for the dark blue material shall be black, except cotton thread for basting and machi

34、ne tacking armholes, which may be white; and the thread for overedge stitching of the piping at bottom edge of coat shall be white. The colored threads, when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification, shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning, and in addition, the silk thread s

35、hall show good fastness to light. 3.3.13 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040, and shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.14 Buttons. 3.3.

36、14.1.Insisnia- buttons. gold plated, enlisted design, 27-line for shoulders and cuffs and 40-line for fronts, conforming to type I, style 3, class A, sub-class 1 of MIL-DTL-3461. The insignia buttons shall be metal, 3.3.14.2.Rinq toqqles. buttons to sleeve cuffs and shoulders shall conform to Ring t

37、oggles for securing the 27-line MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.15 Collar closure hook and eye. the collar shall be brass, black, japanned finish or black The hook and eye for closing 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-2L45C m 9999906 206000

38、0 733 m MIL-DTL-82 145C (MC) chemical finish, followed by a clear lacquer coating and conform to the requirements of Figure 6. 3.3.16 Labels. Each coat shall have a combination identification/instruction label and a size label conforming to DDD-L-20. The coats are intended to be wet (dry) cleaned an

39、d the label shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.16.1.Combination identification/instruction label. The combination identification/instruction label shall conform to type V, classes 2 and 14 (combined) of DDD-L-20, except all printing and the space between lines of printing shall be a mini

40、mum of 10 point (approximately 1/8 inch). The content and format shall be as follows: Collar size: Nomenclature: (item description) Contract number: Name of contractor: Wool Products Act information: 3.3.16.2.Size label. class 2 of DDD-L-20. The label shall consist of the numerical size designation

41、specified in 1.2 followed by the letter S (short), R (regular), L (long), or XL (extra long), as shown by the following example: The size label shall conform to type V, 411 R 3.4. Desiqn. The coat shall be the U.S. Marine Corps design shown on Figures 1 through 4, a seven-button, single breasted, fo

42、rmfitting, fully lined coat having a one-piece front, waist and chest darts, a three-piece back without a center vent, sleeve cuffs, shoulder straps with buttons and a stand up collar with a hook and eye front closure. The top and bottom edges of collar, front and bottom edges of coat, the top edges

43、 of sleeve cuffs and the edges of shoulder straps shall be piped. 3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns shall be furnished to the contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working patterns. patterns sh

44、all be identical to the standard patterns. The standard patterns shall provide a 3/4 inch allowance for side seams and the seam joining the skirt to the center back, and a The contractors working 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL

45、DTL-82L45C M 9999906 2ObOOOL b7T D MIL-DTL-8214SC (MC) Front Front facing, right Front facing, left Side back Center back Top sleeve Under sleeve Underarm shields 3/8 inch allowance for all other seams, except as otherwise specified in Table I. Standard patterns show size and are marked and notched

46、 for proper cutting, placement and assembly of component parts. 2 1 1 2 1 2 2 2 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. Coats shall be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance with the pattern parts indicated below: Collar Cuffs Shoulder straps t- 1 2 2 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 Front Side back Center

47、 back Top sleeve Under sleeve Collar lining I 12 2 2 2 2 2 1 13 14 15 16 Collar under ply I 1 PATTERN NOMENCLATURE I NO. OF CUT PARTS Collar interlining 1 9 Collar interlining 8 - Cuff and button marker - Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,

48、MIL-DTL-82145C m 999990b 20b0002 50b m MIL-DTL-82145C (MC) 3.6. Construction. 3.6.1 Manufacturinq requirements. The coats shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I. 3.6.1.1. Operations. The contractor is not required to

49、follow the exact sequence of the operations as listed in Table I, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the coats. 3.6.1.2. Stitches, seams and stitchinq. The stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. The number of stitches per inch .as specified in Table I indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. All overedge stitchi