NAVY MIL-DTL-82149 C-1997 COAT MAN-S - FULL DRESS SCARLET U S MARINE BAND MUSICIAN-S《美国舰队男士深红夜礼服外套》.pdf

1、MIL- DTL- 8 2 1 4 9C ( MC ) 16 October 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-82149B (MC) 9 June 1995 DETAIL SPECIFICATION COAT, MANS - FULL DRESS, SCARLET, U.S. MARINE BAND, MUSICIANS This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments an

2、d Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for a musicians scarlet, wool, full dress coat. 1.2. Classification. following sizes, as specified (see 6.2): The coat will be of one type in the Schedule of sizes (Short, Reqular, Lonq, Extra Lonq)

3、34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 44 46 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document

4、 Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-1.3. Individu

5、al orders. When the coat is custom tailored to an individual order, this specification will govern, except the detailed requirements of Section 3, Table I, may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practice. b 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this

6、 section are speci,fied in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users

7、are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, andhandbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this

8、 document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-5 O 18

9、 6 A-A-5 O 19 6 A-A-5 O 198 A-A-5 O 19 9 A-A- 52 07 1 A-A-52 O 9 4 A-A-5210 6 DDD-L-20 Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven Thread, Silk Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) Thread, C

10、otton Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and Polyester Blend Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage Use) (General DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-3 68 - Cloth, MIL-DTL-3461 - Button, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduct

11、ion or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-82149C 999990b 2058849 124 D MIL-DTL-8214 9C (MC) MIL-P-15064 - MIL-E-20652 - MIL-C-21115 - MIL-C-29405 - MIL-C-41820 - MIL-DTL-82114 - STANDARDS FEDERAL Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head Eyelets, Metallic, Eyelet Washers (General Specif

12、ication For) Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool Cloth, Broadcloth: Wool and Wool/Nylon Cloth, Gabardine, Polyester and Rayon Coat Front - For Coats, Musicians FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specific

13、ations, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. otherwise specified, the is

14、sues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Unless ANSI/ASQC 21.4 - Sampling Proced

15、ures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes 10036. ) ASTM E1282 - (Application for copies should be addressed to the American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY Standard Guide for Specifying the Chemical Compositions and Selecting Sampling Practices and Quantitative Ana

16、lysis Methods for Metals and Alloys (Application for copies should be addressed to American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103.) Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968 3 Provided by IHSNot for R

17、esaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82149C W 999990b 2058850 946 W MIL-DTL-82149C(MC) (Application for copies should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927. ) 2.4. Order of precedence

18、. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sampl

19、e. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case, the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article ins

20、pection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, wool, tropical, scarlet, shade 2502 (see 6.31, 10.5 ounces, conforming to type I, class 1 of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.2 Collar and sleeve cuff material. The material for the collar and cuffs shall be clot

21、h, polyester/wool blend, black, shade 2607 (see 6.3), conforming to type III, class 1 of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.3 Lininq. The material for lining the coat and collar and for making the collar eyelet covers, underarm shields, the coat hanger and straps to secure the lining to the bottom edge of coat shall

22、be cloth, rayon twill, scarlet, shade 2506 (see 6.3), conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.4 Collar tab. The material for collar tab shall be cloth, wool broadcloth, blue, shade 2307 (see 6.3), conforming to type I of MIL-C-29405. 3.3.5 Pipinq. The material for piping shall be cloth, gabardine, p

23、olyester and rayon, white, shade 3042 (see 6.3), conforming to type I of MIL-C-41820, cut 5/8 to 3/4 inch wide for piping the collar and ornamental sleeve cuff and 1 inch wide for 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82L49C = 999

24、9906 2058853 882 MIL-DTL-8214 9C (MC) piping the front and bottom edges of the coat and seams joining the center back to the skirt of the coat. 3.3.5.1. Vinyl pipinq. of the collar shall be tubular with 7/16 inch welt and serrated edges. The white vinyl piping for the upper edge 3.3.6 Cloth, twill o

25、r plain weave. The stays for the armhole and shoulder seams, the binding for the neck edge of the coat front interlining and the collar interlining shall be cut from cloth, twill or plain weave polyester, natural color, conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106. The cloth shall be khaki, shade 3707. 3.3.7

26、Collar interlininq. The material for interlining the collar shall be cloth, cotton buckram, double texture, laminated, starch finish, natural color, conforming to type IV of A-A-50186. The weight of the laminated cloth shall be 21 to 23 ounces per square yard. 3.3.8 Plastic. The plastic strip used i

27、n the collar interlining shall be clear, plastic pattern stock, 0.020 inch thick. It shall be cut using the cotton buckram pattern. 3.3.8.1. Plastic interlininq. withstand wet (dry) cleaning. It must not melt or become distorted under wet (dry) cleaning or pressing. The plastic interlining must 3.3.

28、9 Reinforcement discs. The reinforcement discs for buttons secured to the back skirt seam, with ring and toggle, shall be punched from the cloth, cotton, buckram specified in 3.3.7. The reinforcement discs shall be 7/8 inch in diameter with a 1/8 inch diameter hole at the center. 3.3.10 Coat fronts.

29、 The coat fronts shall conform to class 1 of MIL-DTL-82114. 3.3.11 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to the requirements of type I, class 2 of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.12 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to type IV of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.13 Stay tape. The stay tape for the armh

30、oles and waist seam shall be cotton, 1/4 inch wide, conforming to type III, class 1 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82149C W 999990b 2058852 719 W MIL-DTL-8214 9C (MC) . of A-A-52071, except the requirement for nonfibrous ma

31、terial shall not apply. 3.3.14 Thread. 3.3.14.1.Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196 except the requirement for extractable material shall not apply. The thread for machine sewing shall conform to type I, ticket No. A, for bartacks and all outside seaming and stitching; ticket No.

32、 O for machine felling; and ticket No.s B and F for buttonhole needle and bobbin thread respectively. The thread for hand sewing shall conform to type II, class 3, ticket No. C, 2-ply. 3.3.14.2.Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform to A-A-52094, type III, mercerized finish, ticket No. A, 3-

33、ply for all inside seaming and stitching; type I, soft finish, ticket No. 70, 2-ply for serging and overedge stitching; type II, glazed finish, ticket No. 24, 4-ply for sewing on buttons and machine tacking armholes. The thread for tacking sleeve lining, hand tacking facing to interlining and bastin

34、g shall be a good commercial grade. As an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester core, cotton or polyester covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 50, 2-ply or ticket No. 70, 2-ply may be used. 3.3.14.3.Color and colorfastness. All thread shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040 (s

35、ee DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968), except the silk thread for stitching the collar, cuffs and braid, which shall be black; the cotton thread for basting and machine tacking armholes, which may be white; and the thread for overedge stitching of the pi

36、ping at bottom edge of coat shall be white. The colored threads, when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification, shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning, and in addition, the silk thread shall show good fastness to light. 3.3.15 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, tick

37、et No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040, and shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL

38、-ZIIC 9999906 2058853 655 MIL-DTL-82 14 9C (MC) 3.3.16 Ornamental braid. The ornamental braid for the front of the coat shall be mohair, black, tubular, 3/8 2 1/16 inch wide, conforming to the following: Weave Weight per gross yards, ounces Picks per inch Total carriers Ends per carrier Breaking str

39、ength, pounds Shrinkage : - length, percent - width, inches Colorfastness to: - wet (dry) cleaning - light Plain 35 minimum 9 minimum 16 minimum 6 minimum 105 minimum 2.0 maximum Not less than the original width Good Good 3.3.17 Buttons. 3.3.17.1.Insiqnia buttons. The insignia buttons shall be metal

40、, gold plated, enlisted design, 27-line and 40-line, conforming to type I, style 3, class A, subclass 1 of MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.17.2.Rinq toqqles. fronts, back and sleeves shall conform to MIL-DTL-3461. Ring toggles for securing buttons to 3.3.18 Collar closure hook and eye. the collar shall be brass,

41、black, japanned finish or black chemical finish, followed by a clear lacquer coating and conform to the requirements of Figure 9. The hook and eye for closing 3.3.18.1.Eyelets. The eyelets for the collar shall be brass, rolled flange type, with the barrel scored 6 to 8 scores. The eyelets shall conf

42、orm to MIL-E-20652, sheet 1A-BE108 and be enameled in a black shade. 3.3.19 Labels. Each coat shall have a combination identification/instruction label and a size label conforming to 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82149C m

43、9999906 2058854 591 m MIL-DTL-8214 9C (MC) DDD-L-SO. The coats are intended to be wet (dry) cleaned and the labels shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.19.1.Combination identification/instruction label. The combination identification/instruction label shall conform to type VI, classes 1 an

44、d 3 (combined) of DDD-L-20, except all printing and the space between lines of printing shall be a minimum of 10 point (approximately 1/8 inch). The content and format shall be as follows: Nomenclature: Contract number: Name of contractor: Wool Products Act information: DRY CLEAN ONLY 3.3.19.2.Size

45、label. The size label shall conform to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The label shall consist of the numerical size designation specified in 1.2 followed by the letter S (short), R (regular), L (long), or XL (extra long), as shown by the following example: 40 R 3.4. Desiqn. The coat shall be the U.S.

46、 Marine Corps design shown in Figures 1 through 4, a semiformfitting, single-breasted fully lined coat with 14 gold plated insignia buttons on the right front and seven on the left front, having upper fronts, with seven rows of black braid, skirt type lower body parts with waist darts, a waist seam,

47、 a three-piece back with two gold plated insignia buttons at the waist, ornamental sleeve cuffs with gold plated insignia buttons, a stand up collar with a hook and eye front closure, metal eyelets and two cloth loops on each shoulder for attaching the epaulets. the collar, the front and bottom edge

48、s of coat, the seam joining the skirt to the center back and the top edge of the ornamental sleeve cuff shall be piped with white cloth. The upper edge of the collar shall be piped with white vinyl cord. The lower edges and ends of 3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns shall be furnished to the contracto

49、r by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working patterns. The contractors working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns. The standard patterns shall provide a 3/4 inch allowance for side 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-82