NAVY MIL-DTL-82168 C-1997 COAT MAN-S - FULL DRESS SUMMER AND WINTER SCARLET U S MARINE BAND DRUM MAJOR《美国舰队鼓乐队指挥人深红男士礼服外套》.pdf

1、MIL-DTL-2Lb8C D 9999906 2055287 70 I INCH-POUND I DETAIL MIL-DTL-82168C (MC) 9 October 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-82168B (MC) 19 June 1995 SPECIFICATION COAT, MANS - FULL DRESS, SUMMER AND WINTER, SCARLET, U.S. MARINE BAND, DRUM MAJOR This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Departme

2、nt of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for drum major, scarlet, wool, summer and winter, full dress coats. 1.2. Classification. following class and sizes, as specified (see 6.2

3、): The coats will be of one type in the Class 1: Coat, full dress, summer, wool, tropical; scarlet, shade 2502 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps

4、Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. distribution is unlimited. Approved for public release; Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo r

5、eproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82168C (MC) Schedule of sizes (Short, Reqular, Lonq, Extra Lonq) 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 44 46 1.3. Individual orders. When the coat is custom tailored to an individual order, this specification will govern, except that the

6、detailed requirements of Section 3, Table I, may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practice. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited i

7、n other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification,

8、whether or not they are listed. . While 2.2. Government dociunents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those

9、listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-5 O 18 6 A-A-5 O1 9 6 A-A-5 O 19 8 A-A-50 19 9 A-A-52 07 1 A-A-52 0 94 A-A-52097 Cloth, Cotton, Buckram Thread, Silk

10、 Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose, (Unbleached, Bleached or Dyed) Thread, Cotton Cloth, Wigan, Cotton 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-DT

11、L-82168C 9999906 2055289 643 MIL-DTL-82168C (MC) A-A-52106 - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and DDD-L-20 - Labels: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage Polyester Blend (General Use) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill Rayon MIL-DTL-3461 - Buttons, Insignia, M

12、etal, Uniform and Cap MIL-P-15064 - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-head MIL-L-17507 - Lace, Ornamental MIL-C-21115 - Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyster/Wool MIL-E-29652 - Eyelets, Metallic and Eyelet Washers, MIL-C-41820 - Cloth, Gabardine, Polyester and Rayon MIL-DTL-82114 - Coat Front - For Coats, Musicia

13、ns Metallic STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams and Stitching (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094. ) 2.3. Non-Governm

14、ent publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of docu

15、ments not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). ANSI/ASQC 21.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Application for copies should be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, Inc., 11 West 42nd Street, New Yo

16、rk, NY 10036) ASTM E1282 - Standard Guide for Specifying the Chemical Compositions and Selecting Sampling Practices and Quantitative Analysis Methods for Metals and Alloys 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-82LbBC 9999906 2055

17、290 365 MIL-DTL-82 168C (MC) (Application for copies should be addressed to American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103.) Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Standardization Shads for Sewing Threads 1968 (Application for copies should be addres

18、sed to the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927. ) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. however, supersedes applicable l

19、aws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. Nothing in this document, 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case

20、 the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the coat shall be cloth, wool, tropical, scarlet, shade 2502 (see 6.3), 10.5 oun

21、ce, conforming to type I, class 1 of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.2 Lininq. The material for lining the coats and collar; for making the underakm shields, collar eyelet cover and coat hanger; and for making the straps to secure the lining to the bottom edge of the coat, shall be cloth, rayon, twill, scarlet, sh

22、ade 2506 (see 6.3), conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3 Cloth, twill or plain weave polyester. The stays for the armhole and shoulder seams and for stitching to the collar interlining, and for binding the neck edge of the coat front 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking

23、permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-823bBC m 99999Ob 2055293 2T3 m MIL-DTL-82168C (MC) interlining shall be cloth, twill or plain weave, natural color, conforming to A-A-52106. 3.3.4 Collar interlininq. The material for interlining the collar shall be cloth, cotton, buckram, double textu

24、re, laminated, starch finish, natural color, conforming to type IV of A-A-50186. The weight of the laminated cloth shall be 21 to 23 ounces per square yard. 3.3.4.1. Plastic. The plastic strip used in the collar interlining shall be clear, plastic pattern stock, 0.020 inch thick. It shall be cut usi

25、ng the cotton buckram pattern. 3.3.5 Reinforcement discs. The reinforcement discs for buttons secured to the back skirt seam with ring toggles, shall be punched from cloth, cotton buckram specified in 3.3.4. The reinforcement discs shall be 7/8 inch in diameter with a 1/8 inch diameter hole at the c

26、enter. 3.3.6 Coat fronts. The coat fronts shall conform to class 1 of MIL-DTL-82114. 3.3.7 Shoulder pad. The shoulder pads shall conform to the requirements of type I, class 2 of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.8 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to type IV of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.9 Stay tape. The s

27、tay tape for the armholes and waist seams shall be cotton, 1/4 inch wide, conforming to type II, class 1 of A-A-52071, except the requirement of non-fibruous material shall not apply. 3.3.10 Pipinq. The following material shall be cut 1-1/8 inches wide for piping the front and bottom edges of the co

28、at and the seams joining the center back to the skirt of the coats: Cloth, gabardine, polyester and rayon, white, shade 3042 (see 6.3), 6.0 ounce, conforming to type I, class 1 of MIL-C-41820. 3.3.10.1.Vinyl pipinq. upper edge of the collar shall be tubular with 7/16 inch welt and serrated edges. Th

29、e white vinyl cord for piping the 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82168C m 9999906 2055292 I138 m MIL-DTL-82168C (MC) 3.3.11 Wiqan. The material for reinforcing the bottom edge of the sleeves and sleeve ornament shall be clo

30、th, cotton, wigan, 2.5 ounces, conforming to A-A-52097. 3.3.12 Thread. 3.3.12.1. Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196 as follows, except the requirements for extractable matter shall not apply. Use Type Ticket No. Ply Bartacks and all outside seaming I A 3 Machine felling. I O 3 M

31、aking buttonholes in coat. I B and F 3 Hand felling and hand sewing. III C 2 and stretching. 3.3.12.2.Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform to A-A-52094 as follows: Use Type Ticket No. Ply - All inside seaming and stitching. III A 3 Serging and overedge stitching. I 70 2 Machine tacking arm

32、holes and I 70 3 sewing on buttons. The thread for basting shall be good commercial grade cotton. an alternate to the cotton thread, a polyester core, cotton or polyester covered thread conforming to A-A-50199, ticket No. 50, 2-ply or ticket No. 70, 2-ply may be used. As 3.3.12.3. Color and colorfas

33、tness. shade W, cable No. 66050, except the silk thread for stitching on the braid shall be yellow; the cotton thread for basting and machine tacking armholes may be white; and the cotton thread for overedge stitching the piping at the bottom edge of the class 1 coats shall be white. The colored thr

34、eads shall show the following colorfastness when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). All thread shall be scarlet, 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted witho

35、ut license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82168C m 999990b 2055293 O74 m MIL-DTL-82168C (MC) Thread Color Wet (dry) cleaninq Lisht Cotton Scarlet Fair Silk Scarlet Fair Silk Yellow Good Fair Fair Good 3.3.13 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton, ticket No. 8, soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I o

36、r II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66040, and shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.14 Insiqnia buttons and rinq toqqles. 3.3.14.1. Insiqnia buttons. The insignia buttons shall be metal, gold plated, 40-line conforming to type I, style 3, clas

37、s A, sub-class 1 of MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.14.2. Rinq toqqles. Ring toggles for securing the buttons to the fronts and backs shall conform to MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.15 Ornamental braid. 3.3.15.1. Front and sleeve braid. The braid for the front and the sleeves shall conform to the following when tested as spec

38、ified in section 4, Table III: Cover Material (covering) Metal thread Color of wire Light gold Metal wire (undercoating) Silver and copper Plating material Gold Winding thread Two ply white or yellow cotton thread Core (stuffer) Mat er ia 1 Number of threads Ply of threads ColorGold Weave, plain (br

39、aided) Number of carriers Ends/carrier ShapeTubular Cotton thread 7 minimum 2 minimum 12 minimum Varies from 6 to 8 (total 79) 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-82168C DJ 99999Ob 2055294 TOO MIL-DTL-82168C (MC) Width Weight/l

40、inear yard Metal content (%) Gold Silver Copper Fastness to WaterGood Wet (dry) cleaning 3/8 + 1/16 inch minimum 154.5 grams 0.3 minimum O. 6 minimum Remainder (traces of nickel and zinc) Good 3.3.15.2.Collar sold lace. The gold lace for the collar and the lower stripe of the sleeves shall conform t

41、o type II, class 1, style A of MIL-L-17507. 3.3.16 Collar closure hook and eye. The hook and eye for closing the collar shall be brass, black, japanned finished or black chemical finish, followed by a clear lacquer coating and conform to the requirements of Figure 10. 3.3.16.1. Eyelets. The eyelets

42、for the collar shall be brass, rolled flange type, with the barrel scored six to eight scores. The eyelets shall conform to MIL-E-29652, sheet 1A-BE108 and be enameled a black shade. 3.3.17 Labels. Each coat shall have a combination identification/instruction label and a size label conforming to DDD

43、-L-20. The coats are intended to be wet (dry) cleaned and the label shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning. 3.3.17.1. Combination instruction/identifi,cation label. The combination instruction/identification label shall conform to type VI, classes 1 and 3 (combined) of DDD-L-20, except all printi

44、ng and the space between lines of printing shall be a minimum 10 point (approximately 1/8 inch). The content and format shall be as follows: . Nomenclature: Contract number: Name of contractor: Wool Products Act information: DRY CLEAN ONLY 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking

45、 permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-82Lb8C m 0b 2855295 947 MIL-DTL-82168C (MC) 3.3.17.2. Size label. The size label shall confoirm to type VI, class 2, of DDD-L-20. The label shall consist of the numerical size designation specified in 1.2 followed by the letters S (short), R (regular)

46、, L (long), or XL (extra large), as shown by the following example: 40 R 3.3.18 Bias Bindinq. The binding for the underarm shields shall be bias cut of the lining material specified in 3.3.3. The binding shall be 5/8 to 7/8 inch wide. The binding shall have sized edges. 3.4. Desiqn. The coat shall b

47、e the U.S. Marine Corps design shown on Figures 1 through 3. The coat shall be a semi-formfitting, single breasted, fully lined coat with 14 gold plated insignia buttons on the right front and seven on the left front. Additionally, it shall have upper fronts with gold braid; skirt type lower body pa

48、rts; a waist seam; a three piece back with two gold plated insignia buttons at the waist; ornamental sleeve braid; and a stand-up collar with hook and eye for front closure and metal eyelets. The front and bottom edges of the coat, and the seam joining the skirt to the center back, shall be piped wi

49、th the white cloth applicable as referenced in 3.3.10. 3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns shall be furnished to the contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working patterns. The contractors working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns. The standard patterns shall provide a 3/4 inch